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Posts posted by themaninthesuitcase
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12 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:
Ugh.. I think I just wasted 10 bucks.
Even if it's no use for armour you'll use it, it's handy to have around!
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14 hours ago, Sn4k3 said:
Are you sure that won't melt the armor?
https://www.wirelessmadness.com/bob-smith-industries-un-cure-ca-debonder-1oz-bsi161
QuoteSince cured CA is essentially acrylic plastic, anything that will dissolve CA will also soften most plastics.
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Account deleted as requested.
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For reference nothing is automatically 501st approved. It needs to be built to the standards and to fit the wearer correctly. Some suits will make this easier than others, RS would be. good starting point.
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Hi David,
There was a security update that made that change. Your user name is public so some one already has half what they need to get into any account.
If you message me what you think your other accounts email is then we can start figuring out what the issue is.
Thanks.
Chris.
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Congratulations @Sly11
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I like to use "poor mans fibreglass" for repairs. It's quick and very solid. I try to tack the fabric in place first with a few dots, then once happy flood it afterwards. Don't be tempted to use accelerator though, it can yellow the armour.
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9 hours ago, ChrisThePropGuy said:
I think the pursuit of perfection has come to a close on this
Perfect is the enemy of done.
Looks like you've done really well, and I look forward to seeing further iterations.
Spoken as some one who can't ever leave things alone and has piles of versions of stuff literally next to him.
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Welcome to the FISD Ben!
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I've cleaned (the outside) my armour exactly once. It's covered in marks and scrapes. I know they are there but on a troop no one will notice them. Some spend hours cleaning and inspecting after each troop, I am not that person!
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19 hours ago, Tomp said:
Hi, I’m totally new, live in Scotland. I cant seem to find any recommended companies that sell the required quality storm trooper kit.
Thanks in advance.
Hi welcome to the FISD
Once you’ve had a look at the links above but before you buy anything head over to the UK garrison and have a chat with our armourer team with what you intend to do. This can help prevent any nasty surprises down the line.
We’re pretty lucky to have some excellent armour makers in the UK so there will be some good options for you without needing to worry about import issues which is nice given the current state of things.
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30 minutes ago, TK-84891 said:
I tried attaching the video files but they’re too large.
The best way I've used for this is to upload to YouTube and have them as an unlisted video. If you then copy the link here it should auto embed if you use a browser (not tapa talk)
31 minutes ago, TK-84891 said:I have found having it in my holster sounds a lot better and tinny. When in my chest area it looses that tinny sound.
Nope, you'll need to keep it hidden I am afraid. Most people in the UKG have them inside the chest plate.
I don't have a tramp (too spendy for me) but after a few options I've ended up with just a speaker in my chest and a mic. I don't worry about effects as they always ended up being more trouble than it was worth. -
It's been super weird seeing peoples photos from MCM this year having not been there. Looks like you all had a good time and hopefully I'll be back with you next year.
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Thanks Germain, I've got those now. Baked in or not the step file hopefully will be a bit easier than working on the raw meshes which can be really slow for tasks like Booleans and so on.
If I need to make any further modifications I'll see how I get on with these.
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How are you judging what it sounds like? What you are hearing in a helmet is nothing like what others hear. Are you taking video or similar?
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12 hours ago, The5thHorseman said:
Note sure if you still need anything at this point, but I can send you the 3D files in .step format if you'd like. Just keep in mind that most of them will have edge fillets 'baked in' which might get in the way.
It would be nice to have them if you don't mind! Some of the mods get very slow in fusion working with the meshes so if I was to go back again having the step would probably speed things up a lot!
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Welcome to the FISD!
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7 hours ago, TK-84891 said:
Good morning, good evening & good night to my brothers from across the planet!
I received my clearance a week ago , I have an RWA ANH TK stunt build.
I’ve requested a phase 1 induction place but not had a reply as yet! So hoping I get an induction date soon and I can get out trooping!
as a new recruit I’m after some guidance on how to progress quickly and hints and tips on how to be on a troop.
I also have seen lots of troopers have created game cards with their pics and details on, I’ve created my own but been made aware everyone has their own card number issued? How do I get this?
thank you in advance for any input I receive and I look forward to becoming a full member of the FISD
Hi Ben,
Welcome to the FISD. I am also in Hertfordshire (Hemel) so any questions do feel free to PM me! I haven't done the new induction process as that's new this year but trooping I can help with!
Trading cards wise there's 2 real options, we have UKG ones (here) and there are FISD ones (here). Personally I have UKG ones, if you want one drop me your address in a PM and I'll post you a couple. You may need some extra permissions for accessing them (which may need to you to complete the induction for the UKG) so if you have issues let me know.
Guess I should go look up what the new induction process is!
Chris.
FISD DCOG and attaché for UKG.
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1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said:
Belt is looking good.
FYI I tried to download the belt box blocks file and it comes up with a 404 error, also the filler, perhaps a Thingiverse issue.
There’s a long running issue with Thingiverse when you use download all where that happens on certain things. If you just download the individual files they should work just fine.
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I have a printer so if you send some dimensions and stuff I can come up with something for you.
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2 minutes ago, CallMeMrTibbles said:
(Assuming I need 12mm buttons) I may have found something that will work with a little modification.
Momentary
https://thepihut.com/products/colorful-square-tactile-button-switch-assortment-15-packThose look good, a shroud could be knocked up to hide that gap.
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On 11/1/2021 at 12:24 PM, CallMeMrTibbles said:
Does anyone know where to source working versions of the 3 square buttons under the eyepieces?
On 11/1/2021 at 12:47 PM, justjoseph63 said:That may be a tall order, Richard. What you will be looking for is a latching (not momentary) push button switch, square, with a total width of 12 cm (each) and a height of 6 mm. You will need 2 gray and one red.
12x12 square push is proving a hard to source. I found some "lens cap" style buttons but they are industrial style and you're looking at £7 ish each for the lense and a switch, and it's a bulky swich.
Lot's of options at 15mm though, do you have some measurements from the printed ones? If you can use a momentary then you could probably use a small tactile and we could design a 3D printed Cap for it.
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Bit of progress on this:
I started to paint the grip section. First was 2-3 coats of satin black to act as the base coat. I then carefully masked this up to spray the white grips. I used a mix of Tamiya and Frog Tape for this. I like these as they stick well, don't really bleed but also come off easy when done. I then covered the bulk with some decorators masking film.
I did a bit of a bad job on the butt and got some over spray
I also had a few small corners that were tricky to mask and so were not as clean as I wanted in the tight corners.
To fix the butt I carefully masked along the edges and then sanded with some 2000 grit to remove the worst and re-key the surface. I then just lightly dusted with more satin black until I got a nice finish. This has left a more of less seamless paint repair.
To fix the smaller corners I sprayed some of the spray paint into a cup, you don't need to spray much as you get a surprising amount quickly. Then I used a small brush to touch up the bits I needed. The paint is pretty thin so you make need to do a second coat on a few bits if needed. If you want to re-use the brush then you'll need to use something like IPA to clean it before it dries and ruins the brush.
I also painted the "Visor" (Sight?) assembly with satin black. I then added the wheel and pinned it in place with some brass wire. To cover the hole I used a drop of 3d printing UV resin and cured it with a small UV torch. This was then sanded flush, a small bubble filled and sanded again. A quick pass with the spray can and this part will be done.
Finally after doing a new trigger for my F-11D I decided to do a new one for this too. It's based on a real Glock trigger, though a little simplified. I just wanted something a little more realistic looking as the supplied ones are a little chunky and this seems to be a nice medium.
I've done a resin version, which needs to be cleaned, which will hopefully look a bit nicer.
I've not decided if I will clear coat the white yet. The First order stuff is all gloss, but not a ultra high gloss. Basically "from the mould", not polished. The gloss paint seems to match this far better than a clear coated white but I'll be losing some durability this way. That said the un-clearcoated gloss black on my E-11 is still going strong after a few years so maybe it will be fine?
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Hi Tom,
There is a list of vendors we keep that has proved reliable before, and there’s currently one FO vendor listed. This isn’t by any means a complete list, having a look at the more recent build threads might also be helpful.
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