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themaninthesuitcase
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Posts posted by themaninthesuitcase
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Welcome to FISD.
Before you spend out any money do spend your time to read through the getting started section first. If you have any questions we'll all be happy to answer them.
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Troop #23- 17 June 2023 - Hemel Hempstead - Hero's and Villains
Another year back at my most local troop for Hero's and Villains, supporting Great Ormand Street Children's Hospital. Always a bit of a treat to have a huge 5 minute drive to a troop!
Was quite a warm one, but not as got as originally forecast so mostly wasn't too bad. Caught a breeze in the afternoon to help finish the day. We also had our CO trooping via Reel Icons, as the '89 Batman. That can't have been fun in a black rubber body suit in the sun all day. It was repaid as they had a matching 89 bat mobile at the show, which he drove off the site still in costume. I was still out at the point so served to clear the crowds, who really seemed to want to get run over
Photos: Helen Cooper-Smith (Spotter)
TK-10911 Chris Pearson, ID-91927 Alexander Wakefield, TD-23152 Wayne Cooper-Smith
TK-21166 Shaun Belsey, TI-15978 Dan Wray, TK-10911 Chris Pearson, TD-23152 Wayne Cooper-Smith, TI-14544 Angie Lewis, ID-91927 Alexander Wakefield
TA-9352 Ian Parlett, ID-91927 Alexander Wakefield, TK-10911 Chris Pearson, TI-14544 Angie Lewis, TD-23152 Wayne Cooper-Smith, TI-15978 Dan Wray, TK-21166 Shaun Belsey
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Good luck with your build!
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Authentic gloves when it's cold. Authentic gloves when it's hot. Authentic gloves all the time.
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Dan has now been added to the Hall of Eternal Legionnaires:
https://www.501st.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=290&t=112750&sid=416443c4d19f91fa7eabc6cd28c7ea3dThe Funeral was last Wednesday 7th June, I documented this here:
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I've used riveted in snaps for years now, though I'd probably use a single cap if I did it again for better accuracy. Pretty sure I based it on the Billigram Glen posted.
The thing I really like is I can store my belt and holster separately between troops and it only takes seconds to join or split the 2 parts.
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That helmet work is impressive. The fit looks amazing. Quite jealous of that resin print volume! The red seems like a reasonable decision. In some images it's quite bright others a bit more dull, I think you've split the difference well. Edit: How well does the paint match the pouldron? As in the renders they are the same colour.
One thing I've noticed comparing the red is that there is some light weathering to the armour and the visor. Are you going for a "clean" version, sort of a factory fresh, or a closer to shown light weather?
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8 minutes ago, TheRascalKing said:
Pretty simple - if I can't prove an item to be fact as written utilizing the game or provided models, then I removed it. We won't be able to confirm nearly as much as we can with the full on movie suits, as there has never been a real-world Gauge, but the base suit is clearly from the TFA time period and I will be utilizing proper parts as such.
I may be wrong but I believe it normally works the other way for "realised suits" based on movie start points. You take the movie CRL and adjust only what you can demonstrate to be different. This is remove stuff you can't tell either way because of some limitation such as graphics, or camera angles.
Tbh for some items it's sort of academic, like you're not going to see shoulder seams under that pouldron. So unless you want to dual clear (please do and juice the the numbers a little) as a TFA it wouldn't overly matter.The gloves, can you even get white stitched at the moment? Doesn't seem like it's worth worrying about vs TFA. That is unless we are saying they *should* be white in which case we'd want to flip the CRL, so basic and probably EIB black sticking is okay but cor Centurion you'd need white.
As for the rest, keeping in line with the TFA seems reasonable. Means you can't build something you then can't clear as a plain TFA if wanted, though in reality I expect most Guage builders would be starting from a cleared TFA and adding the visor, pouldron and so on.
I do have some pragmatic thoughts on the gaskets for Centurion, the main one being there are few sellers and from what I understand horrible to wear.-
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I've hidden a number of posts on this thread. If you don't like the character, that's fine, but keep those opinions to your self.
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2 hours ago, TheSwede said:
Can only imagine how difficult this must have been and at the same time such an honor to be apart of. Wish I had known one could attend online…rest in peace Dan.
If you wish to watch the service then you're able to replay it here:
Password June07
I'll be removing this post in a few days.
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Troop #22- 07 June 2023 - Dan Branton's Funeral
Not a troop you ever want to need to do, but when the call comes you do and you give it your all.
Yesterday we put to rest our friend Dan Branton, TK-42911.
Our role was that of a guard of honour. 10 Stormtroopers from the UK Garrison, followed behind the hearse on his final approach the to the church. On arrival we then carried on past to form an honour guard along the entrance as the attendees, family and finally Dan entered the church. Our job completed we retired to change and join the end of the service and complete our good byes.
It was a privilege to take part in the days events, and I only hope Dan would approve.
Thank you to all that attended online, Tuesday was surprised to hear how many of you there where, and how far away.
Good bye Dan. We will miss you.
Adrian Tegg - TK-14957 - Crew
Anthony Nobbs - TK-19036 - Crew
Barry Hibbett - TK-19981 - Stormtrooper: ANH Stunt
Brett White - TK-9593 - Stormtrooper: ANH Hero
Chris Moxey - ID-24246 - Crew
Chris Pearson - TK-10911 - Stormtrooper: ANH Stunt
Conrad Prince - TK-30412 - Stormtrooper: ANH Hero
Dan Wray - TI-15978 - Crew
Dave Fredericks - TK-18034 - Stormtrooper: ANH Stunt
Jim Lee - TK-19060 - Stormtrooper: ANH Stunt
Kris kobus - TK-33633 - Crew
Michael Cullen - ID-50451 - Crew
Nick Wooderson - TK-27875 - Stormtrooper: ANH Stunt
Richard Hutchins - TK-19742 - Stormtrooper: ANH Stunt
Rowan Read - TK-12111 - Stormtrooper: ANH Stunt
Tony Lee - TK-51007 - Crew
William Lennox - TK-12529 - Stormtrooper: ANH Stunt-
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Not a huge fan of the pouldron, but the helmet is interesting.
CRL looks like a good start but I have some comments.
You have a bit in the preamble about differences to TFA, maybe bring this in to the CRL text proper as "TFA based" to ensure that it's not missed.
There are a few bits struck out. (formatting removed for clarity)
- Grooves on sides of chest should show clear separation.
- There are no visible seams on the back/yoke.
- Gaskets shall be made of rubber. Fabric gaskets are not acceptable.
- Forearm wrist box should be separate pieces, affixed to forearms.
- Forearm top plate is not attached at front of wrists.
- Glove palm must have black stitching.
- The seams between the abdominal armor and the 7 boxes should not be filled.
- Working lights and working front torch are required.
- Front handle must be movable.
Generally I would expect the derivative CRL to follow the primary unless there is good evidence of these changes. I realise this is a video game so you can't prove things like the gasket materials, and resolution means you won't see stitching on gloves. I would just prefer to see some justification of the proposed changes.
Looks like you've made a decent start to the build.
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Welcome back to the FISD.
Where abouts in the uk are you now?
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Love seeing the effort going into this!
Can't wait for the build.
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37 minutes ago, Dekard said:
Was there a thread somewhere the peasants can follow? There are accusations being leveled about them being HyperfirmFx rebranded.
Given the nature of the issues and details involved: no.
I was one of the staff who investigated and I can only say to you I was as through as I could be and it was corroborated by other staff. We are confident in our decision and stand by it.
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9 hours ago, heartstopper85 said:
Really don't think these decisions should be made in a vacuum, with just a few voices. This is the shoretrooper all over again.
It wasn't a vacuum. Detachments where asked to "bid" for the new CRL. We, as staff, put together our case and justification which the Detachment Leader presented to a Legion committee. I am aware of at least 1 other detachment that did the same. After going to the Legion our case was deemed better so we got the CRL.
8 hours ago, heartstopper85 said:I also think shadow stormtroopers should come to FISD because they have the word stormtroopers in them
This would require both detachments to agree, and I believe all active members of that costume to agree. Which is probably unlikely. @Sly11 will be more aware of what would need to happen.
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I also have mine mounted in the chest, in one of the peck sections. It's held on with 2 small strips of velcro, never had an issue with it coming loose.
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Welcome to the FISD!
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Welcome to the FISD William.
Looks like you're not a million miles away so hopefully see you at a troop soon.
If you're interested consider applying for the level 2 (and 3) approvals. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/95-expert-infantry-program/
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The other option you have is to use something called BBCode which uses square brackets.
Link using just the url [url]https://www.whitearmor.net[/url] Linking using text [url=https://www.whitearmor.net]The best detachment[/url]this will come out as:
Link using just the url
Linking using text
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Wednesday Update!
I've been working on the D ring
I picked up some 32mm rectangular loops, I think for bag straps, from eBay. They are 32x19x5mm.
To make this work I have adjusted the swivel cap to make it notched so the ring just drops in and is then secured between the swivel cap and end cap. I then cut a small section from the D ring
This all then mounts using a 10mm long M3 cap head screw.
Looks great? Nope looks way too big.
You can see it's way too long, and a bit too chunky. Time to pixel peep the reference:
It's not great resolutions but I think the diameter is more like 4mm. The internal measurement looks like it wants to be about 15/16mm.
So it's not actually million miles out, though at this scale small differences are a bit obvious. I've just been hunting and found some new loops that seem to be a better match.
On to something else I've been working on. Pew pew noises.
I got some new parts. The new development board is a Teensy 4.1. This is a significantly more expensive board than the import nano I was using, about 10x more. But it is also far more capable.
I have paired this with a small 3W DAC that takes the digital audio from the Teensy and put it out into the 28mm speaker, which is the same sort of size used in lightsabers I think.After a few worrying moments where I thought I'd cooked the board, but turned out to be a bad bread board, I ended up back where I was before with the old setup.
I added a 3rd trigger option, currently I imaging I would use this to run the torch from the switch in the front. I don't have to but once hardware is made you can't change it, software is easy to change.
The audio wasn't too hard to add, once I read the examples anyway. The default amplification is reasonable, but can be significantly increased if wanted though I found this was distorting the small speaker I have.
The basic concept proven I went back to the PCB for this all to go on.
The biggest concerns are it needs to be small, and I need to be able to get the SD card out still. This means I need around 10mm clear after the teensy.
This is roughly where things are. The capacitor will be laid down to save space. This smooths power in moments of sudden high draw, like say turning on 21 neopixels and a 1W LED all of a sudden.
I may or may not use the JST-XH connectors. It will make removal easier, but they are also a bit bulky. Soldering would be more reliable but more of a head ache, JST-PH are also an option, smaller but have lower current capabilities, which will matter on the 4x one as that's going to the external power switch on the side of the magazine.
I've opted for small surface mount parts to save room, but will be a pain to solder. To make life easier, all SMD are the special hand solder variants to give a bit of a bigger pad to solder to.
There's not a lot left to do on this other than "draw the rest of the owl", that's a reference™.
I have a few final details to add to the 3D model. Somewhere flat to attach the neopixels to the barrel, somewhere to mount the speaker and I have an idea to help focus the red light for the mag and hengstler I want to try. Once that's done, I can start printing bits, order some PCBS and do some test building of things.
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It is with great sadness I am making this announcement that today we lost one of our own.
Earlier today Dan Branton TK-42911 passed away, after a long battle with cancer.
Many will know him for his incredible enthusiasm in always helping others and this often included aiding those to build the best stormtrooper they could.
Within his own Garrison he held the position of armourer. A formal recognition of his enthusiasm, his knowledge, and his ability to assist others new to Star Wars Costuming. Here he was a staff member, a Provost Marshall, and his opinion always welcomed.
The majority of you will only know him from the forums, or Facebook groups he would post in. To many others, myself included he was a great friend, and we will miss him dearly.
He is succeeded by his wonderful wife Tuesday and their three children.
Buckets off.
Dan Branton, left most stormtrooper, pictured trooping at Elstree Studios near London in 2018.
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On 1/4/2021 at 11:13 AM, Ripper_L said:
Looking forward to see you progress within the next few years.
Maybe you can move the target deadline slightly forward. Let's say 2039?Man, I can so relate, I have a bunch of open projects laying here since.... well I can't even remember, but it's been years!
No, for the year is 2023.
It's finished. Well close enough anyway.
I managed to prime the side cover things last summer, and looking at them last week I realised all it needed was a rub down and they would be okay for top coat.
So during the week I've been sneaking up and rubbing them down with 400 and then 600 grit. Possibly a bit rough and ready, but take a look at real film props up close some time and see how rough they can be. In the end it came out nice.
First job gloss paint. Always a phrase that fills me with dread. Took it slowly, a light dust coat and then a couple of wet coats to get a nice smooth finish. It's not flawless but you'd need to be pretty close to tell.
Assembly was a bit scary as the paint probably could have been left another day or so. However I know that I need to do things when motivated or it will be another year or so loop.
I started by using a scalpel to clean off paint where parts will glue and the barrel nozzle fits. I should have masked these but a blade works if you're careful.
The top sight was assembled using M4? countersink screws. IIRC the original instructions wanted to use a grubscrew into the Glock slide but this felt like a better solution to me. The mount bracket was countersunk to accept them and then everything was done up to approximately "snug". The sight is resin, the mount PETG and doing things up too tight will just break things. At snug they should stay done up, and not strip out the threads.
The top black thingy no longer fitted. Paint tolerances are a nightmare, but the fix was simple. I applied a bit of masking tape to the face of the file to make it safe then used the side of the file to add the needed clearance. This done a dab of Tamiya Semi-Gloss black was added to hide my crimes. The sheen is nothing close to the spray Satin Black I used but it's close enough for this.
Next came bolting things up. The instruction PDF was long gone at this point and the one in the TFA download is for the TLJ build so some educated guessing was needed. I have a stash of M3 and M4 security Torx screws in assorted lengths, as you do. I used the TLJ guide to get the size and then picked the appropriate length by holding them to the part. I used the longest possible for each to get a solid join. The most important was the front M4 screw as I am actually using this to join the two halves, no glue. The longest I have went about 10mm into the other half which should give a solid fix, and on the other side the shortest one I had was used as it's effective decorative unlike the rest.
The last job was to glue the red thing onto the sight, glue in the slide pull, barrel nozzle, and the sight into place. All of this was done with the smallest dabs of CA so not to make a mess but also give me a sporting chance that this semi removable if needed.
Hooray pew pew time.
I do need to add the holster bracket still. I have an idea for this but I need to get the hole spacing and hardware size for the R2Dan holster so I don't screw it up.
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Welcome to the FISD!
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Rs Prop Masters
in Getting Started - Read this First!
Posted
It looks like in the Netherlands it works the same there as here (UK).
It will be the VAT and duty due on the total of the goods and the shipping costs. A quick google would suggest you would be liable for 21% for VAT, between 0 and 12% for duty depending on the category it's put down as.
So as an example:
€80 goods
€20 shipping
€100 subtotal
€21 for VAT
€0-12 for duty depending on what it's categorised as.
Final total €121-133