Vertex

Owning both I much prefer my RomFX over my ICOMM. I like the compact and adjustable/customization nature of the RomFX I also find the VOX to actually be usable. ICOMM is bulkier and in my case I must use the PTT which requires yet another set of wires. However if budget is an issue the ICOMM is still a viable option regardless of its shortcomings.

Requesting update to reflect TK status/detachment access. Thanks. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=18125

Approved!

Well the waiting has started - I've submitted my pics and pending approval.

I did notice the variance in plastic width not only when comparing some parts to others but also within the same part - an uneven pull perhaps? The TD (sans back plate) is probably the thinnest part overall. The calfs was probably the part that has the most uneven thickness. Overall I still think it will withstand trooping though. For reference purposes - I received my kit around mid/late June.

Awesome work guy!

I'm pretty confident that the blaster (prop) is built around a glock 17 (either gen 3 or 4). So you could use that as a frame of reference. I think the nerf one has been scaled down a bit - maybe by 10-15% while the pistol grip has been scaled down even more (20% or more) on its circumference, presumably to accommodate smaller (child) hands.<br><br><br> The concept is not that far from what you see in airsoft with glocks and conversion kits. Do a google search and you'll see what I mean.

Quick question about your cod piece. Is the top flushed with the bottom of the AB section (not the tabs at the bottom). I see your 5 snaps - 2 black for what I assume is the cod piece and 3 white for what I assume are for the belt. Just trying to figure how you can have both the belt and cod piece connected unless the cod piece is not flushed with the AB armor and is maybe dangling with some straps. Hope that made sense? It may be easier if you could just post a pic of your cod piece connected to the AB armor.

Just PM'ed you the info.

Actually I think they reverted back to ABS

Awesome as usual barcoder.

Will PM you the link of where I got it as Im not sure I can post that info here. FYI, it did cost about 35-40 bucks.

+1

Bought it earlier this year from the manufacturer with other intentions but figured it would work well for this. I'm pretty sure its 1000 cordura, it was about 35-40 bucks. Let me do some digging and I'll find you a link.

Yep, with all the molle loops its pretty open for different configurations. I'm going to use this one for my regular (ot) TK as well.

Been selective on what I post in order to not duplicate similar info from other folks. Here's something new - my proposed rig.

I'm planning on re-purposing a rig that I happen to have in black. WIl add a long strap with snaps along the front for the chest armor and run some straps with snaps down to the thighs. Not sure if I will do the sides ones to help hold the belt - once I have everything blocked in I ll make a call on that one if I think its needed. AB armor will be attached to the top horizontal ring.

Says "yes" to me. Good work!

Check Barcoders build thread. I think he made his own gaskets.

Here's where am at with this. My plan is to try one forearm with velcro and another with elastic and see which is better. I've placed some strips of velcro in hopes have having enough material to provide a good close but not make it so its difficult to pry open. The velcro seems to be holding up pretty good. There is a slight gap of perhaps .5 mm (or less) on the side that has the velcro between 8C and 8A. I think this can be reduced by adjusting the placement of the velcro. I do find it relatively easy to open and close. I think this may be a viable option but will still try the elastic band on the other.

Cool. Awesome thread BTW.

Clamps - Are you using 1/2" Chicago screws for the belt boxes?

Out of curiosity - What grit sand paper are you planning on using between coats? 1200?

Thanks Krista. I think after reading your post and giving it a little more thought I now understand. Initially I think I unintentionally over-complicated things in my head - when in fact its a simple solution. Basically the bands are placed so that in its natural at rest state they would hold everything in place - lid/Part C closed. You would then pull the lid on one edge to allow to more easily run your hand through - this would put the bands under tension but probably not require as much force as needed if velcro was used. Once the hand is through all you have to do is release the lids and the bands will retract back to the un-stretched state.

Hmm not sure I'm following the "elastic closure method" - could you explain?