justjoseph63

Yes, Gazmosis' holsters are a bit more expensive, but they are worth every penny! I can put my heavy E-11 in it, and it is so sturdy it will stand up on end. I like this because you never have trouble re-holstering your weapon, especially when you can't see the opening.

Not sure if Randy is still making these, but you may want to PM him and ask. I purchased a set of these from him a while back and they are truly a work of art! I got in touch with Darman, who made me a magnificent custom leather holster for them as well.

You can PM Jim directly here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/user/21196-jimmiroquai/

Purchasing 30 will give you a few extra for a normal build, allowing for a few "oops" moments, and 40 certainly wouldn't hurt to have on hand. As for the color, you can use whatever one you wish.... nickel, chrome or black...there is no requirement, as they are not seen.

Congrats on a well deserved achievement, Aaron, and welcome to the ranks! In case you weren't notified by the 501st, you are now required to do the "Stormtrooper shuffle"...

Another advantage to E-6000 is that any "over spill" or seepage that dries on your armor can be removed usually just by rubbing it with your thumb. When using CA glue, if it runs, (and it will) getting it off requires a lot of sanding, followed by a lot of scratch removal products like the 3 step Novus system to get it back to looking good. You can purchase a few extra clamps and/or magnets, and like John (TyWebb1075) said, work on something else while you "hurry up and wait" for it to dry.

The list of vetted sellers can be found here, Ryan: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ Centurion is the highest level you can reach for "screen accuracy". Once you get your basic approval from the 501st, you can apply for your EIB (Expert Infantry Badge), and then apply for Centurion. It's not quite as difficult as you may think, and although it does require some extra work and minimal cost, I personally think it's worth it to make your armor look it's best. To get a better idea, you can look over the requirements and submission threads here: EIB: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/95-expert-infantryman-program/ Centurion: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/66-fisd-centurion-program/ This may also help you out: http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL

I can't tell too much about the shoulder bell, Dave, but I can see some areas for concern on the belt. The first is that the center button is actually built (molded) into the belt. This may not be a huge problem, but this is normally a separate piece, and is used to cover the the head of the attaching screw/rivet that connects the ammo belt to the canvas one. The problem you will have is the ridges on the outside of the end ammo box. These are also where you need to attach the screws/rivets to hold the belts together, and I don't see how this is possible, but I may be mistaken. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it would require some work. Can I ask where you got this armor? (Sorry the belt is "dirty", but it is from my HWT armor)

Have you tried this yet? http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/

Some use pop rivets (permanent) on the belt, but since I have to change out the ammo (ABS) belt when switching back and forth from HWT to TK, the Chicago screws work better for me. (The canvas TK belt is white and clean, and the HWT one is "weathered").

By "local", I am hoping you mean RT-mod or AP if you are looking for 501st approval... Both of these are awesome armorers in the "Great White North".

Great to see another future HWT, Jacob! As for the "weathering", just remember it is supposed to be relatively light. For a perfect examples of this, check out my friend Charles (Templar726) from the GA. Garrisons' EIB submission pics: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30336-tk-72627-requesting-hwt-eib-status-fx3/, as well as Tony's (ukswrath) EIB photos: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30047-tk-10116-requesting-hwt-eib-status-ataapproved/ One of the great things about becoming a HWT is that you don't have to make it a permanent change. I do 99% of events as one, but on occasion there are troops that want a regular TK, (like Disney). It's a pretty easy change-over, actually. My drop-boxes are attached to my belt with snaps, and my E-11 holster is held on with Chicago screws, so everything comes off easily. Then, I just clean up and polish my armor and I'm ready to go! When building your pack, I highly suggest looking at the build threads by Charles and Tony, located in the HWT area. The reason being is that these are built to 501st specs for HWT approval, (as is mine). While it may be tempting to add/change things here or there to "jazz it up", I don't suggest this, as it would eliminate you from 501st approval, and therefore no good for trooping. The CRLs are there for continuity purposes, so I would stick with them. Also, one of things I like best about being a HWT is that you can add a BFG! I started out with a DLT-19, but then moved to a T-21... love it! Best of luck on your build, and if I can be of any assistance, just PM me and I will be happy to help you out!

REALLY nice job on your ATA build, Jose, and beautiful paint work! Should a pretty easy pass for EIB, sir. It looks as if you are (hopefully) going for Centurion, so at some point you will need to cut the 22mm x 22mm notches out of the front bottoms of the kidney, but it looks great. Is there a way you can line up the tops of your ab/kidney a bit better? The rivets should line up side by side. Looking forward to welcoming you to the ranks!

Looks incredible! Where did you get the design for this?

Mine consists of : 1. CA (super) glue- The gel kind that doesn't run. 2. Zip-Kicker- INSTANTLY cures CA glue. (I love this stuff) 3. White duct tape. 4. Assorted batteries- For fans/speaker system. 5. Safety pins. 6. Mr. Clean foam eraser- (Great for smudges on armor) 7. Lexan scissors. 8. Industrial Velcro- White and black 9. AXE spray on deodorant/antiperspirant. 10. Cat Crap- Anti fogging lens spray. 11. A few paper towels.

The Chicago screws I use are 7/16ths wide, and the shank is about 3/16ths long. You will need 3 for attaching the ABS ammo belt to the canvas belt, (the female end goes through the front of the ammo belt, and is covered by the button plates). The others, (2 or 4, depending on which build you are doing) are used to attach the holster to the canvas belt. Most holster makers supply these, though. and some armorers include the ones for the belt.

Welcome, Kevin! Some great advice for your here so far, but if I may expand a bit on a few subjects... As far as "taking a risk" building your own armor, I assure you it is minimum. There are literally thousands here that have done it, and many of them had never built more than a piece of Ikea furniture, (or less), but they followed the hundreds of tutorials available, and along with unlimited help from members of the FISD, and their armor came out great. Does it take time? Of course! Is it worth all the effort? Unbelievably so. Many people start their own "build thread" in which they post pictures of their progress and ask questions along the way, which is what I recommend. Don't be afraid of asking questions, even if you think they may have been answered a thousand times before. We have all "been there", and are here to help. The end result is that you will have a great looking set of custom fit armor. It sounds like you are a bit hesitant about joining the 501st and FISD... Here is another way to think about it: When you do get your armor approved, a whole new world will open up to you. Instead of wearing unapproved armor once a year at Halloween, you will be able to use yours all year long! We are asked to appear, or "troop" at thousands of charity events, comicons, weddings, concerts, children's hospitals, pro baseball games, etc., which can be an absolute blast. Many only last a few hours, and you can pick and choose the ones you want to attend, but I must warn you... it is addicting. Besides making a lot of new friends, when you see the giant smile and give a high five to a kid (even grown-up kids) who is seeing a "real" Stormtrooper for the first time, it makes it all worth it. Trust me.

Looking fantastic, Aaron! Hopefully you will get approved soon and get those EIB submission pics in, then on to Centurion!

IMHO, I would say that the kidney is definitely going to have to be trimmed, as this is causing your chest plate to stick out way too far. I would suggest going ahead and attaching the snaps to the bottom of the back and the top of the kidney to keep it in place while you do your trimming, and only do a little at a time until it fits correctly. I was having the same problem, and after using the double snap method, it worked out great. Looking at photo # 3, it appears that the kidney is a bit wider than the ab, so you should have enough to work with to match them up correctly. I noticed the snap on the ab, and hope this means you are shooting for EIB and Centurion, (awesome), but remember you will still need to cut out the 22mm x 22mm squares on the front of each side, so this may give you a little extra "wiggle room".

Good call, Jason! I forgot to mention that

It's looking like AP is going to be the way to go, Ryan. As for the differences in ANH Stunt and Hero, you can see exactly what they are by clicking on the Costume Requirements tab on the top bar of the home page. (I tried to link it here, but it seems the 501st site is down right now for some reason). There are a lot of great build threads here for customizing the armor to fit your type of frame perfectly, which will give you something to research while waiting. You can (and should) start your own build thread when you start putting things together... this way, you can keep track of (and show off) your progress, and it makes it much easier for us to answer questions when there are photos. (We love photos)!

I purchased some one inch thick pieces of "chair pad" foam from Wally-world and cut them into 2 inch wide strips, but I only need them on the inside of the front of my calves to keep them from shifting. To attach them, I picked up some industrial strength Velcro from Lowe's. I like this method because I can remove them when they start to get a bit smelly from sweat, wash them by hand, let em' dry out, and pop them right back in. I would stay away from duct tape if possible, as the residue can get sticky, and getting it off of your under-suit would be difficult. Are your forearms and thigh pieces too large? If they were put together with E-6000, you can always think about cutting them down a bit.

I find it amazing what some people can do with a few empty bleach bottles, a dull hatchet, and a spare couple of hours.

Ian is correct, Rui, you will need to apply for EIB first after you fix the holster. Great looking build, and excellent job on the paint!

First, steer well away from acetone, Spencer. The only time ABS and acetone should come in contact with each other is when you are making ABS paste for repairs, as it can and will melt it. Even if you use small amounts on a rag, it will take off the shine. I would try oven cleaner, which seems to be a popular way to do it, or like Dlotz mentioned, using fine wet sand paper and then Novus fine scratch remover. Just be SURE to use rubber or latex gloves and not breathe in the fumes, and try it first on a scrap piece of ABS.