ukswrath

15c. Hovi tip mod Before diving into the helmet part 2 I was asked to make a tutorial on how to replace the hovi tip screens for better accuracy. Instead of doing that let me just elaborate a bit on how it is done. Note: This is not required for any levels of approval. Also, if after reading this you don't feel like making this mod you can also buy the hovi sets from a few vendors in the sales section. For the rest of you, continue reading. Before. Fine screen mesh, not accurate. Reference pic, accurate 1) Remove Hovis from bucket 2) Using a small (4") pair of needle nose pliers or similar, poke a hole through the screen material using one tip of the pliers. 3) Once through clamp down and twist until the screen detaches from the glue. 4) Using and exacto knife or similar remove any excess glue remaining on the hovi. 5) The screen. The screen I use are from the same hovi audio tips I sell. They're produced by using a special (somewhat expensive) screen punch tool. That said, before I purchased the tool I either purchased them pre cut or made them using the poor mans method. Poor mans method - Head to your local dollar store or similar and purchase a flour sifter with relatively course mesh. Using a pair of tin snips, sheers, or strong scissors (you may have to throw away afterwards) cut a 17mm diameter patch of screen. Note this may take a little practice. 6) Install the screen using your fingernails or small screw driver to gently force the screen inside the hovi. 7) Secure screen with a tiny amount CA glue or similar. After

Waist ammo belt rivet covers. I'm pretty sure any armor vendor will sell you a set OR make your own using the following button modification. Find a steel object where the head is the same size as the round/raised portion at the center of the ab belt. Warm up one end of the metal, press it into a piece of flat scrap or cover strip plastic creating a dome of similar size. Once cooled cut the square area around it. I know there's a tutorial where a guy uses a heated dime to accomplish this but I can;t find it. Hope this helps

Well from other screen shots i don't see any diamond shaped boxes and I've personally seen the movie 5 times. I'm not saying your wrong just saying I haven't seen what your suggesting and we probably won't know until, again the movie comes.out. on another note you're more then willing to make it any way you want, it's your vest. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Hey Al, with the exception of a couple components on the back side shoulder strapping, nothing is based off the toy as you have shown here. 95% of the vest you see he is what I gather from movie clips, books and magazines. Once the DVD is released I'm sure specifications may change. Looking forward to your build Edit: if this is not the toy for some reason you maybe looking at a shadow.

Santa never closes his toy shop, get back to work Walter haha

Have a picture?

Thanks Mike, learned from the best here on the FISD. I'd say yes within reason. I would suggest finishing the front section first, then recheck the clearance before cutting more off the back. Make sure your hand fits, etc. Alright Chris! congrats brother, welcome to the 501st. My pleasure and yes.

So a question about the screws again, not to hijack this thread for too long Steve sorry. In the following image are three screws, the far left is M4, far right is M3, in the middle and in between the other sizes is a 6/32 brass. Correct me if I'm wrong but it appears to be equivalent to a M3.5m which just so happens to look similar the starwars.com buckets shown above in a previous post and shown below in my helmet. Going by what Paul mentioned earlier this can't be the correct size. Then something dawned on me, M3, M4 or (6)/32 represents the shank width mentioned above, not the head width that's in question. So I dug a little deeper and headed to my local hardware store and guess what I found, 3 of the same size bolts from what appeared to be from the same manufacturer. Though they were all had exact shank and thread pitched screws, the heads slightly deferred from one another, as much as 1-2mm. The million dollar question is who made the original screws and are they still being made by the same manufacturer, to the exact size specifications, every time. If they're not then anything within 1-2mm (screw head OD not shank size) of M3, M3.5 or 6/32 should be considered screen accurate. Any thought and/or should we move this to it's own thread?

Hey Jamie, thank you for your patience. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All photos are posted. There's something we need you to do for us before we present you with this fine EIB badge. According to the CRL the Thermal Detonator clips are to be positioned next to the end caps. Take care of this so we can pin this badge on you. For level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.It appears you are positioned a good distance from the end caps. Here's a reference picture

Yes congrats all, looking forward to an exciting year.

15a. Helmet Modification For Centurion and/or Accuracy Part 1 Part 2 - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=476501 Note: Out of the box the Anovos helmet meets basic, EIB and SHOULD meet Centurion standards however, their helmets are notorious for having paint overspray around the frown. During Centurion approvals if we see any over spray we will ask it to be removed. ANH Stunt also has a unique frown where it extends past the last tooth (uncut gap in the frown). Since you may already be working to repair the frown we would like that be fixed as well, pretty please. Reference pic Anovos So... in this section I'll be illustrating how to make the helmet more accurate. Besides what's mentioned above the following modifications will be suggestions for accuracy only. Starting with the frown, remove the inner screen to avoid getting paint on it, clean off overspray and repaint. Note: You can also square up the teeth a bit to give it a sharper look as Gazmosis did in his Anovos Helmet Rebuild tutorial. Using paint thinner or Goof-off spray (not industrial strength) gently but firmly remove the over spray After Repaint the frown Now for the eye sockets. Anovos left generous amounts of return edge for some reason. Not that it's all a bad thing judging by the reference pics below but we think it's a little excessive. In some cases if it's too excessive, at the Centurion level you may be asked to remove some. Anovos (left) Anovos (Right) Cleaning up the eyes a bit. After Brow. Anovos put the helmet together with a straight brow, I personally like mine tapered. Here's a reference pic. Guy on the left has a straight brow like Anovos, the guy on the right has a tapered version. Either one is perfectly acceptable. Start by removing all the internal components, "S" seal and ears. After pulling the helmet apart I removed the Frankenstein lump above the brow which gave me better control over how the two sections of the helmet come together. Reassemble the sections. Using magnets, center and position the brow the way I wanted. Mark and drill new centering hole. Illustrated to the left of the magnet. The holes above and below the magnet are the ear mounting screws. Install a couple of pop rivets. Though you technically only need one rivet or centering screw, I used two on each side due to the lower section of helmet wanting to spring out. Again the lower rivet is preference. Installing the ears. So I reinstalled the ears setting them up similar to that of this reference pic. My setup. I believe my brass replacement screws are a bit big so I may be posting some updated images. The intent here was to position the ears correctly. Hovi tips. Eventually these will be replaced but until then I'll be replacing the steel mesh with something not as fine. Reference pic Anovos Remove screen and install replacement Before After Reinstall the mesh inside the frown, giving it a little trim. Simply hot glue at each end and in the middle. Face kinda looks cool from the inside don't you think? Menacing BOO! Lens time. I mounted my lens as seen here in this reference pic. Not entirely sure of its accurate but l use the same technique in all my buckets and it works excellent. Long story short center your lens material, firmly pres against the ear screws leaving a dimple in the material. Drill the dimpled area with the same screw size, in my case 3/16". Install lens. After a fitment my trooper complained about the lens material sitting on his nose. Using a sharpie I traced out the eye sockets and around the mounting holes then did some trimming. After Part 2 - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=476501

Excellent job Jeff and to concur with Joseph nice weathering.

Congratulations Lee and welcome to EIB trooper

Nice! very creative

Very good thank you

Congrats brother Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

As much as I agree with you, the accuracy approach didn't work for me. Though not shown in my Anovos build due to accuracy they will get added later. After a day of trooping I have severe armor bites in my inner elbows. Just out our curiosity what do you suggest to individuals that have that issue besides padding which I personally can't stand either? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

7h. Thigh Support System (part 2) Continuing from part 1. With very little reference pictures the other half of the thigh support strap was either connected to waist belt via a anchor of some sort or looped around. If I'm incorrect someone I'm sure will let me know. That said, I'll be illustrating how to perform the loop version. In a nutshell I had my trooper install the thighs and a leather belt he's using, loop the elastic around the belt, marked the location and sewed the ends. Legs finished

Love to see the CRL checklist posted on builds, great job Walter

The forearm cover strips are 15mm in width. As illustrated in my forearm assembly section, perform a fitment check. If the forearm are as big as you say then start with the front sections and cut each side equally so that when finished the return edge is just outside the total width of the cover strip. The return edge on the wrist side is to be removed for Centurion level. You can remove it before the assembly or after. I personally remove it after the forearms are assembled. Hope this helps

6f. Posterior to Cod In this section I'll be illustrating to to make and install the Cod to posterior strap. Continuing from 4g Using the 1" x 4" section of elastic from the Anovos supplied bag of goodies, in the case the hand guard elastic, remove or cut off the velcro. Fold over one end 1/2", punch hole and install snap. On the opposite side do not fold but punch hole for cod split rivet. Similar to that of the side split rivets, install rivet, washer and elastic.

5b. Posterior rivet assembly In this section I'll be installing the posterior "S" snaps. Continuing from 4g Note: Line 24 snaps will work here also. Reference pic. A you'll notice some have 1 snap others have 2. Using a two snap system, starting with the posterior measure in 1-3/8" and 5/8" or so from the tip of the cod. As mentioned in the ab sections , using the same specifications to drill holes and install male snaps. At this point you should be able to connect the cod strap.

8e. Shoulder Cover assembly Continuing on from section sections 8a and 8b, I'll be illustrating how to install the shoulder strap covers. Reference Pics Cover strips trimmed. Ready chest for install A good question that is always asked is how many cover strip ribs are to be on the chest plate? Looking at the pics above 4-6 in addition to the largest rib that faces forward is the average. If you have large shoulders you may have to go down to 3. Assembly. Add glue to cover strips and clamp. Note: Some peeps add strips of plastic in the valleys (in between the ribs) however, in my opinion the chest section is flat enough that doesn't need to be done. Clamp and let dry. Left Right Dried Clean off excess glue. EDIT: Forgot I'd already posted the cover elastic retainer, well here it is again. Install Centurion required shoulder cover elastic retainer. Using 3/16" white elastic cut two sections at 6". wrap them around the shoulder straps and covers, tie in a tight knot and cut off excess. Finished

Sorry for the delay, thanks

Thanks Tom