ukswrath

Yep, that would be a solution, and one more step in a already complicated setup. I'll keep you in mind

I total agree with you Jason. I looked into making something similar and still may. My decision not to make them is as stated above, not to mention the material Echo is using is only available in clear, just like his. If I could get it in any other color this story may have a different ending. I'm still looking into other materials. A bracket would make my ability to finally build and sell a harness system to power all my electronics a dream come true. I haven't given up hope, I'm just being patient. As for my current fan systems the ONLY reason I'm making them is because Evil Boy owes me $$$ for the failed FOTK blaster disaster sales. I stated earlier this year in another thread I would continue to sell the fan kits until he steps up and pays people back. This is my way of getting my money back and serving the community .

Great job!

Yes. The type of material and having someone laser cut it is a bit pricey, but the most important fact is I don't want to steel that unique idea from him and profit from it. I've had a few convos with him regarding the topic and at the moment it is what it is.

Thanks Oscar well be with you shortly Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

hahaha

Angled cuts are perfectly fine, "V" shaped thighs are what you want anyways. May I suggest you evenly split up the amount you want to remove between left and right sections.

Hey Andrew thanks for the kudos brother . Inner cover strips are not required. In this particular armor build it assisted in the assembly and gave the interior a cleaner interior look which the owner wanted. If inner cover strips hinder your ability to assembly the exterior correctly then by all means don't use them. I'm currently building a RT-Mod suit for a fellow garrison member and I won't be installing inner strip because they're not needed nor does the owner care about what the inside looks like. Hope this helps

The fronts are pretty cut and dry, or clear as you mentioned . Afterwards you were to measure your thighs again. From there giving yourself a 1/2" gap between your skin and armor you should have a rough idea on how much to cut off the backs, if any. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/page-13#entry462625 If you haven't cut any material off the back and yet they're too tight you may need to shim the back. Is this the case or am I missing something?

Yes and I went 3M on everything.

I given many sections held together by E6000 a HWB. As long as it's glued correctly and you don't leave the item submerged for too long you should be fine.

Hey Robert, if you need to remove that section go ahead. You do not need to bent. If you can attach it without bending go that route. Regarding the backs, yea the Anovos shins are less to be desired. Giving them a hot water bath isn't a bad idea if you're up for it however, it's not required.

Roger that! If you need any help let us know

Hey Chis, thank you for your Centurion application, and thank you for making the suggested updates made by Sly during your EIB application. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All submission photos are present and your armor meets all the Centurion requirements. Sly and myself would like to congratulate you on a job well done. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we make suggestions mentioned by your fellow troopers, Sly or myself. We have nothing to add here. Excellent work!

Alright Sean, thank you for your EIB application. Let's get you approved shall we. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been posted and your armor meets all EI requirements. Sly and myself would like to welcome you to the level of Expert Infantry, Congratulations!. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we'll discuss observations made by your fellow troopers, Sly or myself. These suggestions are to improve the overall look of your armor but will not effect your application. Starting from the top and working our way down. 1. Ear screws provided by Anovos are not accurate, they should be "V" head screws and not flat head. Replacing these with the correct screws would bring up the accuracy level. Reference photo 2. The Vcoder at the front of the helmet is another area that could use a bit more TLC. The paint outline should be more defined. This is another area that the armor supplier didn't do very well, no fault of your's of course. Removing some of the old paint then repainting the lines as shown in the reference photo should give it a cleaner and more accurate look. Reference photo 3. Back plate and kidney. The back plate should reside close to the kidney with minimal gap. It looks like you may be using elastic to secure the two. May we suggest using nylon webbing or something similar. 4. Posterior (butt plate) overlapping the thighs. In this area you can try replacing the elastic with nylon webbing but unfortunately you may need to trim the upper thighs. We notice they're jamming into your shins as well which can't be comfortable to walk in. Trimming the thigh front and back at he top may be your best option, but ultimately doing this is up to you. Reference photo 5. Thermal Detonator clip screws incorrect. Similar to the ears, Anovos didn't supply the correct screws which should be flat head slot screws, like what's found on the ears. In my build thread I've actually suggested builders replace the ear screws, reuse the ear screws on the TD. They are close to screen accurate in shape and size. Reference photo Centurion Suggestions: In this section Sly or myself may suggest recommended or required repairs prior applying for the Centurion level however, the accuracy it is ultimately up to the trooper. We have a few areas to mention here. 1. Frown extension. For stunt the from should extend past the last tooth. Reference photo 2. Kidney/ab rivet placement. The ab to kidney rivet placement should begin at the top of the ab and kidney approximately 10mm from the top and side. From there evenly spaced with the lowest rivet positioned just above the lower ab 2nd return edge as shown in the reference photo below. You may need to to use ABS past to fill the holes you'll be replacing. Reference photo 3. Left thigh front cover strip too long. The cover strip should stop just above the lower return edge. Trim that back and you're good. Reference photo We hope to see you at Centurion.

Thank you

Collectible coins http://www.501st.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=50

haha yea it wasn't cheap but i've trooped in the armor 1/2 a dozen times already and it still looks show room new. Even where the armor sections naturally rub together are still perfect. You get what you pay for as the ole saying goes.

Any reputable paint shop will do. I just happen to have a friend who's a pro painter but it still ended up costing me about $1K. Well worth it IMO.

Hey Sean can you post a picture of the blaster "D" ring please. Thanks brother

Sizing the shins. you can size them with the boots on especially if you're using totallykiller boots which run rectangular a the top.

Ok so... breath when I tell you this, I think you'll be ok but what I said was.... "Start by raising your thighs 1/2-1". If you need to, remove more, if not all the upper return edge do so." I didn't say top of the thigh. Anyways, again I think you'll be fine. Your shins look great. At this point I would finish assembling the front of the legs and do another test fit. Optimum is minimal gap between the thighs and cod. Afterwards, with the sniper knee temporarily installed, the top of the sniper knee should sit close to the lower edge of the thigh. It doesn't have to be perfect. In the movie they're all over the place.

Here ya go Sean, give this a shot http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/48-posting-images-in-threads-2015/

You have them correct. My pleasure

HWT it doesn't matter, though uniformity is suggested. TD deployed doesn't matter either and SWAT depends on the trooper you're emulating, though I believe it's either or.