ukswrath

Awesome, thanks for sharing

16 years!? Now that's determination

Don't mind me I'm on crack. It's not made by 3M https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-White/dp/B0006HWYJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470342956&sr=8-1&keywords=industrial+Velcro+white

If you take a little bit off at a time you should have the opportunity to stop before going too far. It doesn't look bad btw.

Not a bad idea though I would encourage you install the center strap and remove the brass eyelets or paint them white the so it looks some what screen accurate

Hey Stephen my suggestion would be to trim the bells if you have shoulder room. If you can maintain the same clearance between the bells and the shoulder covers then trim the bells. Edit NOTE: There should be little to no gap between the bell and chest plate. Removing the lower bell return edge will also move the bells closer to the chest plate which should assist if you choose to trim the bell edge closest to the chest plate. Hope this helps

Hey Jason, hooks or velcro, either will work just fine. I've assembled Anovos shins using both methods. If you go velcro I suggest you use 3M Industrial, not the Anovos supplied. Done right you won't need to hot water bath your shins. I'm not saying it will resolve all your issues, but it will definitely look cleaner. As for hot water bathing, for the record, I wouldn't if you don't have to. We have quite a few Anovos Centurions that have the same calf issue. It's not a deal breaker. That said, if you still want to give them a dip then your best bet is to use painter's tape. Wrap them to the shape your trying to achieve, then dip and cool. Don't use anything that is rigid to hold them in place as it will distort the plastic. Dip times 35-45 seconds, cool & repeat. Hope this helps

If you want it all in the helmet, trash the HTT and go with my system. Follow the "Go To" link at the bottom of my post, then refer to the "TK Audio" link in the "Ongoing Sales" section. Other than that you have to go with chest mount which there's Aker or a few others available everywhere

Kind of meant right next to it so we can compare or you can place a ruler on both to show screen density

Hard to tell without the Anovos Hovi next to it. I've been known to sell them on occasion without the speakers, send me a PM

Hey Sebastian thank you for your application, lets get started. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All submission photos are present. Great work on your armor Sebastian, it's obvious you taken great pride in your build and it shows. That said, your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Expert Infantry. Congratulations Trooper! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by us and your fellow troopers. If there were any suggested corrections they would be made here. None of these will effect your EIB application. We have one suggestion. As mentioned by David the TD screws should be pan head slotted screws, and probably half the size you currently have installed. We're suggesting you replace these when you get a moment. Reference photo Centurion Suggestions: In this section we try to point out all we can to make your armor as accurate as possible for a successful Centurion application. Also mentioned by your fellow troopers, you'll need one rank stripe black painted for Centurion. CRL states. For level three certification (if applicable): Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes). Reference pic There you have it, a couple minor areas to address and you'll be ready for Centurion. You've done beautiful job on this armor, excellent work .

It doest have to be made out of the shoulder covers, just similar. Also Terrell with ATA does, you can find his contact info in the "Armor and where to buy them" section. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

That's right, roger

Which TD part was missing?

Awesome who made these?

I'm almost 6', my shins ride high but the FOTK boots are tall so they still fit over the boot though I have to make them pretty tight or I have difficulty closing my spats.

Since the shins and spats are over the boots there's no pinching parse, maybe boot bunching but that's about it.

I'm not buying that excuse

For starters I'd remove any shred of lower return edge. The big difference I see between my Anovos is my shins are slightly flared at the bottom as see here. As you assemble the armor make it so there's more opening at the bottom. But before doing that I would encourage you to throw on your boots so you have a better idea.

I do have an area that's peeling but it's because the armor rubs in that area. Like yours mine is skin tight but I'm not having the issues yours is. I would tell them you just recently starting using it when you noticed the concern.

They need to replace it. I have two of these suits with no prolems

The complexity of this armor is beyond any TK built to date. Not sure how many current armor mfgs are going to pull it off using traditional vac forming or even fiberglass, but I'll leave that up to them. Thanks Derek Great job.

AWESOME! Do you have a materials list or build pics?

Concurrently would be accurate for the achievements though you'll be considered and referred to as Centurion being it supersedes EIB.

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