zemzero

I feel visibility will always be limited, outside of trying to maximize the little we have by adjusting the padding or straps inside. I actually stepped on/kicked a child last time I was wearing my suit. Right in front of her dad and mom . She must have been right next to me as I tried to side step. She was staring me down as she walked away, haha. I apologized of course but still, never feels good.

This is absolutely perfect. I'm just finishing up my own duck tape mannequin and was trying to figure out how to make a flexible frame. Some of the better ideas come in the simplest forms.

That makes sense. I have a setup with the icomm from Ukswrath but since a buddy is interest in building a suit and I have some spending money, I figured I'd try a rom/fx and I can give the extra setup to him. I'm in no rush, the icomm is great as it is. Looking into adding a tk chatter mp3 to it.

Was looking at purchasing a rom/fx unit soon but the website has been down for a couple days. Anyone have any information?

Looking forward to this, any idea when it will start?

Not sure what you're asking in your first question, are you looking for the nut that fits the bolt? If so, just take the bolt out, take it to a hardware store and match it up to the right nut size. Sandpaper will get rid of the decal completely but be prepared for a lot of sanding to bring the surface back to a polished finished. I'm hesitant to give this advice because of how disastrous the outcome could be but acetone dissolves CA glue. However, acetone will also eat the plastic of your helmet so you would have to be extremely careful if you go that route. Just do little by little with a cloth, rubbing the glue off the helmet. Depending on the type of paint you used, you can easily get rid of it to start again. Mineral spirits will take away enamel paint and isopropyl alcohol will take off acrylic. Usually. The nail polish...did you use nail polish or nail polish remover? Either way, I see nothing that can't be fixed.

yeah, it's on the list of things to do still. I made them longer just in case I made any mistakes. They'll sand down no problem. My suit is about 90% complete and I can't wait.

Alright, I moved the straps back toward the elbow more and shortened their lengths. I'm liking this change.

wow, that's huge. If I had to deal with that, I would add a second "fake" cover strip, to give the aesthetics an easier time of fitting in with the rest of the suit. If I really wanted to get into it, I would fill in the edge of the big cover strip and sand it down to match the curve of the thigh. Then add the second cover strip in the proper place. With the sanding and painting, it might too much effort though. Here's some bad art to give a visual.

N/a

I have a question about the ab plate. On the vertical button plate there is a valley near the bottom of the buttons in screen caps. On the am ab plate this divet isn't present. Is it a big deal?

I have no idea, that "billogram" was sort of confusing and I thought I saw strapping that was offset, as I made mine.

When I bend my arms the strapping bends outward and is highly visible. How can I fix this? I assume the gap is too large but if I move the forearm up, too much of my wrist shows. If I move the bicep down, then there is a gap between it and the bottom of the shoulder.

Im a tall dude, 6'2" and I feel the need to trim the thighs down. I want to be able to walk up and down stairs un impeded. I want the last resort to be trimming the top and re-doing the return edge. Is it plausible to cut the half moons at the back of the thigh and then cover the cut with white elastic? It would hide the cut and offer flexibility.

I believe on ESB helmets the lenses were held in by 'black sticky stuff', literally the name but I can't really find anything other than this: http://www.gmksupply.com/html/gmk_0103.html I've never used it so I can't say if it works properly, just throwing the idea out there.

Tape it together and post pictures. I feel like the helmet would be the wrong shape though, too bulky.

Ok, cool. I'll definitely take my time with it, I almost messed up my bicep by cutting twice and measuring once, I can hide it under the cover strip though.<br><br> I'm hoping I'll be able to sit somewhat comfortably, or at least bend to a certain extent.

I'm thinking about removing the ab plate from the cod piece to give more flexibility, would it pass eib or centurion? I thought I saw a discussion about this but I can't find anything.

Started my first build and I'm not quite sure how tight everything should be. The forearms fall to my wrists when I put my arms to the sides but they can't get any tighter, or else I wouldn't be able to get them on or off. They are fitted to be almost tight when I flex my muscles. Same for the biceps, they fall right to the top of the forearms. A strapping system and foam liners are the only things I've seen to fix this, I'd like a tight fitting build, wondering what my options are. How visible is a strapping system? Tight and close like this guy:

nice job, congratulations

These pads don't make the helmet rise above your eye line? I tried some furniture cushion and had to cut it down to to almost 1/8", otherwise the helmet sat high. Maybe I just have a big head?

last couple images

I bought an ATA helmet back in 2014 and just now am finding time to build it. I have an AM 2.0 armor kit coming and I figure I'll cut my teeth on this ATA helmet. However, I honestly can't tell what I'm doing. Some of the mold lines seem to split off into two and I can't tell if its just a defect or there are two options to trim that line. Too late now, as I trimmed quite close to where I think it should be but when I dry fit the halves together, it doesn't fit at all. I'll do some real research about building kits but I figure I'll ask first. The top part of the face, above the eyes bends, does that get trimmed down so it's flat? There's no mold line there. I figure it does get trimmed but I can't tell. I also don't know how far to trim the underside around the neck and vocoder. I can't get a good dry fit picture because of how poorly everything sits, tape won't hold it, magnets slip out. Maybe the entire thing is warped from sitting in a box for almost two years?

Brake fluid also works for stripping paint but I have no idea how it reacts to ABS. Like others have said, try it out on a scrap piece first.