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That's great Andy, thank you so much. And, is there a database where to find the complete, correct, templates? I assume there are some corrections in other too. I've found so much "definitive" templates that I really begin to wonder which is the right version...

Hi folks, sorry for the necro-posting here, but if these are the best sterling templates ever, I cannot ask for something better. I'm doing the 3D model for my blaster (I'll make a 3D print of some parts), and there is a question regarding the muzzle tip. Following the template found here, it comes out like this: But according to this image the shape of the last section it's a bit different. It seems like it's on a lower position than the template one. Could anyone please confirm this? Thanks, Lorenzo

Just bought a two peice from extreme racing. Very well made.

Hi Dave, how have you sealed the ends of the neck trim on your helmet? Seems to be a professional job. Thanks! Lorenzo

Thanks for the advice Alexey. I looked a lot your build before starting mine, and took a lot of inspiration from it and it's detailed pictures!

I was thinking the same thing, actually... Sorry, I was "gadgeting" too much...

Quite the same. At a deep look you'll notice the mic will finish straight against the helmet, instead having the last ring with a smaller diameter. A further modification could be to cut away the last ring on the mic, modify the threaded part to have only a matching ring and glue the two parts together. In two words to have a mic with a hollow threaded base. This will be unnoticeable to anyone. The problem is that if you look inside the mic that is white, you'll clearly see the hole, and I don't know if it will pass a certification inspection. By the way not a problem to put a standard mic in.

I see... Ok that was only an idea... By the way it's a completely reversible modification with standard mics, only the holes on the helmet will be bigger.

Here is my idea: the ribbed part will be chopped off in line with the tape (ribs will be sanded away too) the drilled mic tip will be glued into the part, that has the same finished diameter on the helmet will be made a 13 mms hole to make the thread pass through the bolt part will be closed against the helmet fixing all togheter the ribbed part of the bolt could be left or taken away, it depends on the use This could be used for ventilation or to make cables for comms pass through All the assembly will be 2 mms away from the original position without any other intervention. Could be 1 mm away if you mill a bit the inside of the ribbed part

I've found a system to attach the mic tips while having a hole passing through at the same time, to have more air circulation inside the helmet. Basically it's to take away the screw from the mic tip, drill a hole through and attach it to a holed support that's already attached to the helmet. I know, it's a bit tricky, and my poor english doesn't help, sorry... maybe it's better to take a picture of the assembly parts...

Thanks Ron, its a relief to know I don't have to play around with those ears anymore... I think I could make teeths a little bit wider. And what's your advice about the HOVIs drilled through? Thanks, Lorenzo

Anyone? How about the teeths now?

Update After a bit of curses to fit the right ear I have achieved a result that I define "less disgusting". I messed around a bit with the shells to attach the lower screw of the left ear, so later I'll try to do a some ABS paste to close the holes and give more grip to the screw. I hope that the result, however, go well. Please feel free to give any kind of feedback. I've shortened the screws inside, as next job I plan to apply double sided velcro and insert padding and accessories (more or less functional or haestetic). I'm happy with the strength of the black paint inside. I did'n care to avoid scratches, and despite this the coat has held up well. I highly reccommend this "bumper paint" to those that want a dark side of the bucket. I have a question: is it possible to change the HOVIs in a way they have a hole passing through, to increase the air circulation inside the helmet, or is a modification that can give certification issues? Just guessing, not sure to do it. Thanks, Lorenzo

Pretty hot indeed. Here in the Venice hinterland we have, in July/August, often more than 30/35 °C during the day, sometimes we arrive about to 38 °C and humidity from 55 to 75%. We have mosquitos too, but no crocodiles Hope I'll never troop in such conditions, but... who knows. BTW that fan system will be useful for sure even in warm spring/fall days.

I'm in doubt because some days ago I bought a metalized vacuum hose at the warehouse, I would like a lot the appearance of it inside the back helmet trim. On another side I'm very sensible to hot weather (and here it's HOT and WET when it's hot ) and I know that Echo's device will be very useful for me when trooping... I'm wondering if it's possible to combine both without loosing on performance

You're welcome Manny, no problem. Any advice is good. I've put an eye on Echo fan system since the first days here... that's a wonderful peice of kit

You're welcome. I'm stuck on the right ear at the moment. It's a little more difficult than the left one. Yesterday I was so frustrated with the result that I took no pictures of the job. This w-e I'll take a break to meditate on it while skiing (read - "with a good beer under the sun"...). Om.

Damn right ear...

You're welcome. By the way the idea it's not mine, others have done it before me, I've only taken inspiration from other's builds too.

For now simply for the look. My goal is to idealize the internals as a "real" helmet, adding accessories, padding etc. I started with a plain, dark color as first step. As others said there are some benefits during trooping, but as long I've not trooped again, I haven't tried that.

Hi Steve, I think that knee padding or MICH/ACH helmet padding are the best solutions if you don't care about movie accuracy of the internals. You'll find them on Amazon/Ebay. I'm going to evaluate both for my bucket.

Thanks Max, I'll try that way and post some pictures of the result.

Hi Russell I'm working on my ATA helmet in these days and to me you're doing a good job. I left all the exceeding ABS on mask sides, just to avoid the problem you had with the overlapping and to feel more comfortable with the traps/eyes alingnment. Then drilled, riveted and marked the rear shell bordes on the mask, so I knew how much to cut away.

Hi Dave, thanks for sharing your build, I'll take as good guide when my ATA armor will arrive...

Hi Chris, I've followed Terry/pandatrooper's tutorial an worked fine for me. It was my first ear attempt and although not perfect I'm satisfied with the result.