Haribon72

Second, after you mark the top of your thigh armor, use a pencil to mark your cutting path to the inner or outer thigh. Do not cut all the way around. We want to save the sides to help cover your thighs. Disclaimer: The armor in this picture was already cut.

This is how I mastered the thigh assembly so that we can walk smoothly and conquer stairs. I learned a lot from veteran TK's in our garrison and from Mr. Kevin Doyle (https://www.facebook.com/501MileWalk) This is my own presentation and another way of cutting and assembling thighs. This is very helpful for people with big thighs (like me). First, you will need a friend to measure the distance from the top of your knee to the lliopsoas muscle. Once your have your measurement, mark it on your thigh armor (you can measure either the inner or outer. It doesn't matter.

Reviewing the CRL.

Working on the Thighs This is how we identify the thighs. Identify the shortest portion of the thigh. Measure from the bottom tip to the top. This one is 11 inches and it will be the inner thigh. This one is 13 inches and will be the outer thigh.

We're definitely going to re-visit the butt plate.

Also, make sure you use a strong backing inside the thighs. I think you're using thin garage sale sign material. Inside my TK thighs, I used strong ABS plastic that came with my NE kit. If you don't have any available, you can use a generic dust pan from the dollar store. Look for a white dust pan and cut it up. Adhesive. If you're using E6000, it will not hold the thigh parts well. I'm using the ABS cement that came with the NE kit. Once the cement is applied, dry overnight, it should be rock solid. Here are my TK thighs: BEFORE PAINTING. CENTURION PICS

You're welcome JC. I found some time to sit down on a computer to post these pictures to help. This was I did: One part white (50%) and one part grey (50%). When you get this color..add sprinkles of water to soften it up. After 15 minutes, got ahead and apply to your seams. Here is a picture of my damaged AT-AT Driver canister. Work it in and let it dry for 24 hours. Sand it down. I use plumbers tape from Lowes ( you can also get at Home Depot ). Take your time sanding ... just like your sanding drywall joints. Then use finer sand paper to shape it out.

I can see the mixture was grey. That's not good. I suggest trying again and mix the apoxie sculpt for at least 15 minutes add a little water and then sculpt it to your seams.

The apoxie sculpt must be part 50% grey and 50% white and mix it until it turns white. Using daps of water and sculpt it to the seams. You must allow it to dry for at least a day before sanding.

Arriving late to the party and congrats!!!

Measure the controller plate and take a pic. We just finished an AM armor and the plate should be good.

You're off to a great start!

Michael, if you haven't ordered TD clips yet.... please reach out to Tony (UKSwrath). You should be able to get them pretty quick. Here's a game plan for your TD: 1. Measure the grey pipe to 7.5 inches and mark it. 2. Minus 0.25 inch, mark it, and cut the pipe. This will leave at the 7.25 inch mark. 3. Add the end caps and that will give you the 7.5 inch requirement. 4. Add the TD clips, drill the pilot hole, and install the screws. 5. At this point, you can gauge the TD controller plate like this . . . Here's an original TD from LFL archives.

Just checking in. Yes, were all waiting in the garrison!

Garrison online tech support!

Thank you Joe!

The author, Jez, did a great article on the ESB helmet. http://www.starwarshelmets.com/newESBChristies.htm Hello Michael, great start on your ESB build. We'll be following you to the finish line!

Hello! I found these references on Starwarshelmets.com. You should be fine.

Hello again Germain! Yes, another team build here in California. Hope you're doing well my friend.

To be continued . . .

Helmet time! References used.

Test fit only. Bingo forgot his black under suit. Don't mind the chest plate rising up.

Center core is about 85% done.

Ab buttons. Sorry, we didn't take much pictures. Gotta clean up the paint marks when it dries.

Painting the screws. Done!