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Truimphmark

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by Truimphmark

  1. Hi guys and girls here's my build on the ROTJ E11 from CFO ok started of with cleaning up the parts which where very clean any way just washed them worked out what holes had to be drilled and drill sizes for me Mag ejector 8mm so I could put a spring in it for working movement Allen bolts six in total 3.3mm and drilled though the inner hollow tube so I could just use an Allen key to screw the bolt in (the bolt acts like a tap and tapped it's own thread Pop rivet 3.2mm with the rivet I drilled In to the body of the tube then pushed the rivet in the U track and glued in the hole with strong super glue but first ran a little line over the Vent holes of the barrel On the U track that sits where the front D ring is it has to be splayed out a little so the D ring sits over it all I done was using a pair of pliers put the U track on a flat surface pushed down with the pliers closed just to open upthe U track a little then filed the edges to open it out where the D ring sits and filed all the other U tracks Door catch 3.5mm just glued to the body of the E11 Cocking handles 3mm and2mm same as above front sight on scope rail 3.5mm once I worked out where the sight went I drilled a hole of 3mm in to the rail and into the main part of the barrel and at the other end of the rail 2.5mm hole to take a metal pin left over from the rivets just cut with wire cutters to size I wanted to hold rail in place I did the Same with the handle and the and magazine side then glued the in place The scope clip that's holds the scope to the rail I didn't want to just glue in place so I drilled out the side clip first with a 3.5mm then a 7.5 so I could screw though the clip in to the main rail the resin screw head I drilled a 2mm hole first the opened up to 5mm so I could glue a small screw in place for it to work as intended Folding stock hinge pin 8.5mm so had a little play with the pin when putting stock arm onto the pins before that though cleaned the grove for the C clip to pop in to place once happy with where the main handle sat on the barrel and every thing was in place and drilled a hole for a pin to go into the handle of the folding stock and barrel of the E11 then glued in place Filed all the parts and cleaned off any flashing from the parts and glued all parts in place Then sprayed the blaster with black satin the once dried dry brushed the blaster for the weathered look
  2. Hi Brian when I took apart my m38 scope like others have said there are very tiny screws and I used a 2p penny that seated in the groves perfect. Tip try doing it up first then undoing as sometimes that helps release the movement
  3. Hi kirk I make rubber blasters in the uk and there pretty durable and bounce well to be honest the look on the little one faces when you let them hold the blaster is price less and the mums and dads I like the fact that is rubber and if it's dropped not to many things to worry about
  4. Hi Felix what is the dimensions from the back of the folding stock hinge to the cut you done please
  5. Cool never seen one with the bayonet fitted
  6. Hi guys and girls here is a few pics of the greebies that I've made from reference pictures as to go to my resin and rubber blasters which I will be casting soon and the greebies casted up and ready to go and of the e11 in rubber with rubber greebies added to rubber blaster
  7. Rubber e11 are more your trooping blaster no worries if you knock,bang it on something and drop it
  8. Hi john I have a Bayonet Lug if you want one happy to send you it if you pay the post pm me if interested
  9. Cheers guys it's made out of a pu flex rubber and it's very flexible and Weight wise there isn't much in it to a DD
  10. Hi guys and girls here is my rubber blaster Mark two as other mould will be used for another blaster I'm in the making of as you can see there are/is a lot more details in this casting of the e11 your always going to get some air bubbles in the mix that's just to it being like a thick treacle like substance but as you can see it's very sharp on the details I will be making these as and when ideally in a run of ten as the rubber has a pot life once opened
  11. Hi guys it is a recast of Shawn's SE I contacted Shawn to let him know a while back it's a real shame as I have one of Shawn's (well two blasters other one lawgiver) and they are the cleanest resin blaster and worth the money
  12. Ditto to that tino I have two builds I'm doing both with my moveable rear cap on them ones a doopys pipe build and the others DVH first den build with a Ali pipe need to get some pictures and paint them up time is always a factor
  13. Hi guy don't know if it helps I have blaster sounds in my glove on mt tie pilot and I attached them with the Velcro tabs that you use colour coding wires on the back of the TV or computer E6000 them to backs of the button done one tab after it's cut done three fingers you can get them from any electric out let for a few £ $ € saves using Elecy tape and when it get hot under the glove it's going get hot
  14. Yeah they do very heavy once the T tracks,scope,rail and counter the weight all mounts up
  15. Hi guys if it's any help I can make these as I did when I pimped my scope will need a little sanding picture doesn't do it justed -------
  16. Looking good Keven great build so far
  17. Hi guys did think of making the rear lock clip out of Ali U bar they do sell some on eBay my thoughts first to make the hole thing out of Ali. Resin was a after thought still thinking of doing but doing the outer U out of Ali and keeping the the Tee part resin.As Brian can tell you for a little bit of resin that there made form it's quite strong it's not like it's going to hold any bearing on it. It's only the tiny bit of a pen spring and the spindle I used was at first was a roll pin as have a few but I found that the the plastic tube that covers a small paint brush worked fine a bit of super glue job done and it gives the look a better feel
  18. Yes mate they are for sale too in a kit I done on here a little time ago can do as single part
  19. Hi brian the rear cap lock took me some time to do casting then cutting the casting again got them on one of my pipe builds look and feel pretty cool as on my deact just thought when making my doopys would be so cool if most of the moving parts moved like the real one limited with resin as to trooping and gravity. But for display and real look its up there with the deact. Great build by the way trooper
  20. Hi Kyle if you need the retaining ring that in my kit I made for the doopy doos cast from a real scope if t you mess up the ring or need to go a little wider with the spade cutter http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27420-upgrade-kit-for-doopydoos-e11-blaster/?p=347464
  21. Cool that little vid a good one with resin you can spray mould release over the resin that gets out air that's trapped good vid tho
  22. Hi Derrek I'll have a look at the post you've put I've put attached orbital sander to the side of the box at the base and work it up and down and around the boxes and the last one to come out the mould was the best one to still have a few areas that need a little bleed which I'm working on and it's good to go ones again thanks mate
  23. Hi guys and girls here is an up date on the E11 it's self there are a few pleases with some air bubbles trapped but have reduced as best I can the arm of the folding stock hasn't come out as I hoped so will drill holes to suit apart from that very happy with it
  24. Rubber blaster build Hi Troopers here is a few things I've been playing with in the uk making a rubber blaster with Ali scope rail firstly I made a mould of a Kenner toy biker scout blaster for a test run on the rubber Then I made my own power cylinders with the help of a few trooper IE capacitors and ba nut and bolts cheers guys and then put it side the doopys power cylinders and then made a mould of the cylinders and cast a few out of resin rubber with no black pigment in it and a few with black pigment in them and made moulds of my real scope and counter Then looked at making a mould for my deact Stirling where I cut down the magazine and reformed the ends for the clip (OFF)to go back on Then set about puttying up the Stirling with none drying clay(plaster-seen) and wax paper smoothing down the parts to keep as much detail as I can then made a box to house the blaster in and putted the box out a hell of a lot of plaster-seen 8packs keyed the mould then set about pouring in the silicon mix once that was set pulled out the blaster cleaned up the mould then reseated the blaster in the mould then sprayed the mould with a mould release then set about casting the other side of the blaster Sod's law ran out of silicon mix knew I was on the boarders of running out of silicon so had an old ish mould so cut that up in to little chunks and poured half the mix in then put the chunks in then poured the rest in still only left me with the mag sticking out so bugger off to the shops for more stuff (sorry guys didn't take many pics of cutting down mag and putting up Stirling just got on with a few things) The one with the sliver rail is the E11 that I've made out of full rubber the other E11 are a rs prop masters,SDS and doopys will post up more pics as making a few and when fully finished ones to.
  25. Hi guys thought you like to see these pic when I saw the forum which he put he's side up on here thought pair play to the guy saw polite and quick and responsive and helpful when Spoke to him via email and thought what the hell give him a go. well here the pic Here's macs bucket with a few other lids courtesy of some troopers some parts of the lid are very sharp in the pull Well hope this helps
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