tkrestonva

Per LFL request, Legion is compiling a database of TFA costumers (mostly stormtroopers but also Kylo Rens, etc.) for use in future casting opportunities. If you name isn't already on it, you might want to poke your Garrison CO or Squad Leader to make sure that it is. Thread is here: http://www.501st.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=129&t=88841

I've been trooping TK for close to 8 years and have trooped at least 100 events, and I still get claustrophobic for a minute or so after putting on my helmet. As such, I always give myself 30 - 60 seconds after putting on my helmet to calm my breathing before I step out of the dressing / staging area and into a potential crowd. It's just something you'll have to condition yourself out of by wearing it as much as possible, starting with familiar surroundings (such as in your living room) and going from there.

Saw these on Facebook - simply amazing. Any plans on offering the kid-sized kits for sale?

With the exception of the part about the local Mandos (whom we work very well with), this is also how Garrison Tyranus does things.

Wow. For ROTJ armor, it sure is pretty. TM did a great job with it.

Good luck, and we'll of course be watching. You said it's an Alpha kit - did you buy it secondhand from Matthew Rogers?

I usually build in the following order: Biceps Forearms Thighs Shins Ab / butt / lower back Chest / upper back Belt & thermal detonator Shoulders Detailed parts (sniper plate, ab button plate, etc). Paint Internal strapping

I picked up my printed parts today. My print guy did a great job, so much so that I won't bother with sanding except where needed to get the parts to fit together, and the only painting I plan to do is (1) the raised part of the pistol grip that is supposed to be white, (2) the two raised parts on top of the main body that are supposed to be black, and (3) the part where the thigh holster mounts which I'll probably paint metallic so that it matches the corresponding part on my 3D-printed F-11D. I *might* put some shine on it by using the acetone polishing trick, but we'll see. It took about two weeks of daily work to put together my F-11D blaster with all the sanding, painting, and gluing of the 35 individual parts. I expect the pistol will only take a weekend to assemble.

Done. This is our house - it's up to us to make sure the bills get paid.

There is a second member of our garrison - Jason Pizzino - who is doing the same thing for his 5 year old daughter. It would be awesome to see the two of them together, especially with our cadre of full-size FO stormtroopers.

Downloaded the files and turned them over to my 3D print guy last night. Hopefully I'll have the parts within a week or two. I've been waiting a long time for this, I can't wait to get my hands on the parts and start assembly - and after building one of Germain's 35-piece blasters, this one should be easy.

Do you have any reference photos showing the LED?

I sincerely hope they reconsider, because that alone is enough reason to disqualify this kit for even basic 501st acceptance. http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt Holster For 501st approval: •Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material. •Holster is worn on left side of belt and is attached via two leather or leather-like material straps to the belt from behind instead of front. ◦No loops cover the outside of the belt. •The holster is affixed with only two fasteners at the bottom (one per strap). ◦The fasteners may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.

This. So much this ... Seconded. Would love the option of purchasing custom-fitted decals for those spots on the helmet where it seems clear that decals are screen-accurate.

For the interior, I plan on adding fabric lining similar to the Anovos bucket along with some strategically-placed padding to ensure a snug and comfortable fit.

The best type of weathering happens with actual use. I plan on being shiny and parade ready for the December premiere, but after that I'm just going to let it happen naturally. I took the same approach with my ESB TK - I was all spit-and-polish when I debuted it at C5 in 2010, and haven't done any cleanup to it (other than wiping sweat out of the interior) since. Five years later, I have a suit that looks every bit as beat up as we know the screen-used ESB kits were.

Mine arrived today! I've got a bit of bondo and light sanding work to do to correct some minor imperfections, but after building the Anovos TFA armor it's certainly nothing I can't handle. Especially since the helmet will need to be prepped for painting anyway. But as far as the size, shape, and accuracy details go, I'm quite pleased with it.

Hyperfirm all the way. About the only reason you could possibly want the converted Hasbro over the B-grade Hyperfirm is for the "pew pew!" lights and sounds.

Not sure if this will help, but I'm using these as the add-on pouches to my Heavy Gunner tactical vest, and I'm inclined to believe that the belt pouches are meant to be of a similar style: http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/7904-Flyye-Industries-1000D-Cordura-MOLLE-Single-M14-Mag-Pouch-Black.aspx If those don't work, you may just have to sew your own pouches.

When deciding to use (A) Lexan scissors, or ( B ) a dremel, the correct answer is actually ( C ) score and snap. Seriously, because of the way this thing needs to go together, you'll want to make sure your cuts are as smooth and precise as possible. Especially on the long edges and/or edges that will require Bondo. The only place I would use scissors and/or a Dremel is on the small and curvy pieces, such as the spats and the thermal detonator end caps.

You could always outsource that task: http://www.3dhubs.com

FYI: I would note that since this is Legion-branded merchandise, it is available for purchase to Legion members only.

I work with E6000 on a regular basis, and I always keep a tube of it with my trooper building supplies. It can definitely make you loopy if you aren't taking some common sense precautions, but so can a lot of other items commonly used in this hobby (spray paint, acetone, etc.) As long as you are working in a well-ventilated area (preferably outdoors) and don't snort the stuff, you should be fine. Whether or not you go the extra mile and use a respirator is up to you. But unless you are literally hunched over it for hours at a time with your nose within a few inches of the glue (which seems to have been the case with the author), that seems a bit excessive to me.

Thank you! Can't wait to get the files and start printing!

The aluminum moulds part doesn't surprise me one bit. At the rate they are going to have to crank these kits out and still maintain consistent pulls, that's the only option that makes sense. Machined aluminum moulds are expensive and aren't really amenable to accuracy tweaks, but they'll last forever and are ideal for mass-producing kits. As for the late November / early December, we'll see. At best, I expect them to begin shipping kits in a couple of months ... to their earliest buyers. They almost certainly won't have all of their orders fulfilled by the premiere.