Bulldog44

Welcome Chris!

I like having fans in my helmet for those hotter days. Troopercoola fans are a great way to go as he offers them with speed controls. Nice to be able to set the fans on low or high. I wired up my own and not 100% happy as they can be quite noisy at their set speed.

It's unfortunate when communication goes dark and there are no clue at whats happening. Hopefully Daniel can reach out to all his paid customers and let them know whats the status of their orders.

Thanks for adding that. Agreed, it’s more for detail than functionality. It’s great to see you have made your kits to have these features. It’s a lot of extra mold making and casting but the results are worth it.

Thank you Tino! To be honest I cannot say if the receivers can be bend free with each casting. I did 2 more castings and those had a slight bend because I did not have the mold perfectly straight before the resin cured. It will take some time and practice to make good copies. The folding stock is fragile if you compare it to a real sterling or a metal replica but it’s not as weak as it may seem. The resin I use has a bit of flex to it so its not the type that shatters easily. It will probably crack if flexed too much but so far I have had no issues. Opens and latches closed like it should.

Tino, Here is the first completed sterling parts kit. Almost all the parts are resin except for the springs and the pins to hold the stock together and rear sight. Some parts screw on like the original parts and others had to be glued. Pretty straightforward though. The receiver tube is all resin. I made a mold of the an RA Props tube I drilled out with a template. It’s not as pretty as a machined receiver but it looks very nice. Super light and fairly durable. This mold is only for testing out making resin copies. I am in the process of making a new mold of a receiver tube I sourced in Japan. I had to remove 1mm from the inner diameter using a drill and sandpaper on a dowel. Not perfect but it works well enough to slide the bolt in the receiver.

Thank you Marc!

Thanks Tino! I have the muzzle screws but forgot to put them back on for the photos. Thanks for pointing that out. For the end caps, I have them pushed forward in the photos but they do slide back a bit as they should showing the proper gap. I got a bit restless getting them done as I am out of working space at home. I will get the screws on there today and glue the power cylinders as well. Never ending project. Hoping to post up my latest full resin Sterling soon. I have it all assembled and tested. Has a functioning folding stock, the mag clip locks in and the charging handle can be pulled back somewhat. Keep you posted.

Thank you! I will give the heat gun a try next time.

Finally finished the DVH blaster and also the Phoenix Props/Doopy blaster. Here is the DVH blaster finished: Here are the parts leftover. I decided to use a few newer parts I casted from my own sterling parts. Here is the Phoenix Props/Doopy mixed parts blaster build. I did not use the Phoenix Props original aluminum tube and went with a PVC pipe. I still need to glue on the power cylinders and then is 100%done. Some pics of the grip and trigger assembly parts from my sterling parts . These were B grade castings with some cracks and air bubbled needing to be filled. Power Cylinders for blaster #2: Not 100% accurate or cleanly made but look decent enough. Slowly making improvements on these. Overall a good learning experience with crinkle paint, recycling older kit parts and testing new resin parts. The second blaster crinkle paint went on way too thick and not that happy with it. Hoping to figure out the best way to use that paint and get the results to be consistent and applied in a thinned coat. Last thing I noticed was that the folding stock position on both blasters was off and this was due to the template I used.If you notice the entire stock is positioned a little bit too far back. The front of the stock should protrude past the front muzzle. I believe that is more accurate. I will be using a different template now for future builds and also getting measurements from other sources to confirm the positioning. Thank you for stopping by.

Really hope they do actually fulfill previously paid orders. I sort of gave up on ever getting my money back so if this works out it will be a nice surprise. Not holding my breath though until I start hearing news of orders reaching customer doorsteps.

Almost there with this blaster. Scope rail and counter bracket needs a quick coat of paint and the power cylinders need a touch of weathering. Work will begin on the second blaster soon after this.

Congratulations Justin! Excellent handling of this run. Super trooper!

Sorry I didn't document my power cylinder build but here are a few photos of them after a fresh coat of black paint. Not level or perfect but the look the part and much better than the original DVH power cylinders seen in the first post. Just wanted to assemble these quickly and figure out how to improve things as I make more of them. Weathering still needed once I am able to set up the magnets for mounting them on the blaster. I did not position the 3 inner capacitors as I would have liked to. I glued them together and just left them as they are. For the next practice build of these I will experiment more with replicating the ones from the reference photos.

https://www.facebook.com/Troopercoola Check out Marc/ Troopercoola. He has the JMC E-11 kit casted from sterling parts. Has all the things you need to assemble a blaster to centurion level. Marc can be contacted on this forum too if you look for troopercoola. Very nice kit. -----------

Thanks Tino for the updates to this and editing.

Arigato Tino! The grip screw is set rather deep and I will try to replace that. The screw was one my dad gave me so thought to use it for this blaster but guess the threaded shaft is a bit short. I can use my resin casted part for this. The bolt paint could probably use some more work but I will leave it for now. The T tracks pretty much fit nicely after I shaped them but there was still some spacing issues. So I wrapped some tape around them all so they were squeezed flush to the receiver and then placed the blaster in my heated shower stall for about 30-40 minutes. It helped get them to sit flatter to the surface. No glue required thankfully.

Progress pics: Base sterling finished with some minor weathering, bolt painted & installed. Inner barrel is just black PVC pipe. The grip and the bolt charging handle are the original raw cast color. Bolt is painted with Mr. Hobby dark iron and chrome silver metallic paints. Hand brushed and then rubbed to a dull shine. Also added a light layer of black wash paint from Tamiya. The end cap photo shows the wrinkle paint pattern well. I could not get the same wrinkle pattern across the entire receiver but it added some character to the blaster and made it easier to attempt some worn weathering effect. The bolt completed. Some subtle metallic weathering on the mag release button and the mag clip edges. T tracks installed and a temporary hand wound spring. Next up is the scope rail, scope and counter and then I need to finish a set of power cylinders. Almost there.

Congratulations Natalie! Have a great time! Honored to have you join the TK ranks!

Looking great! I love how the helmet is coming out. If I ever get a chance I want to try this with a BS helmet if I can buy one still.

Nice progress! The little details can sometimes take long to get right. For the scope screws, you are correct to have the 3 screws sitting above. the 2 slotted heads are actually recessed or sitting behind that mounting disc on the real scopes. So you could sink them in a bit more. Also the real scopes had a black filler on those 2 holes so on most real scopes the 2 slotted heads are not visible. You don't have to replicate that black filler but just showing it for reference. For the stock, that is a tricky area to clear out and get the inner parts reveal look. If you have any, use small metal files to shape the opening better and if you take too much off use the green stuff to rebuild where you want it. I also used a small wood chisel tool set to carve away the resin. It makes the job easier. The files will help you get better defined edges for the open space look.

The stock looks nice! Well done hollowing it out. Glue it in for sure if it rattles but wait to do this as Tino pointed out. It would be a difficult task to get even coats of paint in those hard to reach areas.

Gatchan, ようこそ! 英語困ったら、日本語を書いて下さい。この訳サイトはとても便利です。https://www.deepl.com/translatorGoogle訳よりDeeplのがいいと思います。 アーマー作る間にビルドトピックを作って、心配の所皆さんと確認して下さい。 TKSpartanはANHのビルドトピックのリンクをシェアした: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ 写真ホストのおすすめサイトはImgur。 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwidsp-Oo_7wAhWHfXAKHfU7A5UQFjAAegQICxAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw3p6bMJ-O8flkpiRYoN0oZ9 無料アカウント登録して、写真アップロードして、自分のビルドトピックで写真のリンクをシェアする。すいませんいい説明じゃない。もし分からなかったらZoomで説明します。これからよろしくお願いします。頑張って下さい。

Nice work so far. For the grip side screw, I like things to be turnable. If the screw already sits fairly snug and you can turn it then that is good. If it is a bit loose you could drill a wider hole and insert a tube that you can tighten the screw into .

This blaster came out stunning! Excellent work!