The5thHorseman

You used a bit too much of glue but it's fine, you wiil be able to easily remove it with the your thumb pulp Also, if small bubbles of glue have been formed near the edges due to an excess of glue, just gently score it with your x'acto and then rubbed it away with tweezers. I found this way very efficient. And you're right to begin with shins, up to now they have been the easiest parts for me to glue together

For the ejection port and the inner bolt/spring slide I made the rounded corners with a drill and after that I cut the straight lines with a PVC circular saw for Dremel. But you have to be very careful, you certainly won't be able to cut the whole ejector lines with this tool because it's very narrow and there's the risk to bit on the sides. Once I cannot continue further with the Dremel I made the finitions with an X-acto knife for more precision (but your blade needs to be very sharp cause the pipe is very thick ). Then i use some different grades of sandpaper on the whole things to finish them. Et voilà , but be sure that it might looks easy when i write it but it was a bit more difficult to do for me.

Indeed you're right, but it's not something I will be able to fix because of the difference of diameter between the pipe and the rear cap :s If I add material at the end of the pipe the end cap won't fit any longer; and if I withdraw material on the inside of the end cap it will be too thin... Bref, lots of troubles for small, almost un-noticeable details !

In fact, it's not really circular, I cut one of the wire approximately halfway. This way I have the rounded effect up, but the wire sit flat along the pipe. Also I covered it with CA glue once installed, so the wire is no longer soft when you touch it Perhaps I could just cut along this blue line? Because on my ref pics I couldn't say if the side towards the end cap is straight or rounded.

Just a little update of some adjustments I've done after your remarks. I reshaped the lower corner of my ejection port. This was very difficult to do but I gotta admit this is much better like that. While doing it what I feared happened, I did a lot of scratchs along the inner bolt, that's why there's some green stuff on it to fix them. And now the rear breech, kind of a pain in my a** for a while ! To do it I used this: At last a useful way to use the old iPod headset !! The result (sorry for the yellowed pics, but I took them with artificial light and a yellow background): It's not wonderful but I'm confident that once painted it will make the illusion

The depressions are still here, the resolution of the pic is simply too low. I just had to reshape them a little because I screwd them with my Dremel when I was adding some depth.

Effectively you're right ! I'll try to fix it later but it might be difficult as my inner bolt is linked with my inner barrel which is linked to the front muzzle :s I know I don't have that rear breech but it's very hard to add to the pipe. I keep that in mind each time i find a piece of gear to check if it could make the deal ! In last resort I will sculpt it. Yeah of course ! I'll be pleased to help them !

Hi everyone, It's been several weeks since I've begun to work on my E-11 and right now I think it might be time for some posting It took me a lot of extra-time because I wanted to add some features to the kit, and gathering the parts plus taking some reflexion about how I'll make these functional were quite long... I wish I took more pics but most of the time I was too unsure of what I was doing for making pics for a possible how-to thread. So let's start with the last thing I've done, the Inner Barrel: Then the Front sight where I had to add a new sight and re-sculpt the flying tips: Useless pic but, well... I took it, so ^^: The area I flattened for the bayonet lug: A little pic to show the efforts I've made to smoothen the junctions between the parts and the pipe, Here the Mag well junction: As the grip and the inner handle are separated I had to re-sculpt the screw which goes through the handle. I also had to correct a mis-alignment on the folding stock's right branch: Functional Fire selector: And spring trigger, I made the video as it was still a work in progress for my bro and I was very happy it works The spring I made with a wirecoat and I'm glad it turned so well ! I know it's certainly not the best spring there is but hey, it's just a wirecoat that had been rounded around a broomstick : Damn this D-ring was so tough, also unbendable !! Even heated ! I struggled really hard to make it fit without taking the original D-ring home away. Sights alignment, Wasn't that simple, I had to re-glue my rear sight twice :s And now some Overviews to show at which level I am right now: And now with the RESIN t-tracks provided with the kit installed. Here too I'm really happy of the result: Now, what I still have to do: - Glue the Power cylinders as soon as I get them - Make the scope and hengstler rails - Installed the wires between power cylinders and hengstler - Re-shape the junction between the pipe and the front muzzle - Paint the whole thing ! I hope I will be able to post the rest of my build soon but right now I'm working on my armor. Most important first

It might be what you are looking for: http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/BlasterCoreV4-GB.pdf Website link: http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=1148&language=en And if you still have questions I think this is the guy to contact

You're really looking awesome in your armor !! Congrats on your approval, you deserve it ! Now you just need to: Give us fuel Give us fire Give us that which we desire

See how powerful are the words ? ^^ The feather is definitely stronger than the blaster But I'm agree about modifying the "if" with something else.

The mention " But, if you want to have..." is a bit ambiguous, it sounds like it's optionnal. That's why I mentionned it must be confirmed by someone else. I guess i was wrong Rather, I would write: "In order to have the correct number of T-tracks..."

By reading the CRL for EIB, I do understand that you could have a 7 T-tracked blaster. t's only if you want to have 6 t-tracks on your blaster for accuracy, that you have to care about drilling row holes, etc... To be confirmed but IMHO, nothing prevent you for having 7 t-tracks on your hasbro blaster for EIB

I count on you to apply the imperial law aboard Enjoy it !

Of course, share it as much as you want ! it's my pleasure

Hi everyone, I just finished my Inner drop boxes and as it might interest some of you I decided to share with you how I did them. The main idea of this, is to only use ABS scraps to save money where it can be saved List of materials: - You’ll need an untrimmed armor kit for this as we need ABS scraps - An X-acto - A pencil - Some glue - Lot of patience Optional stuff: - A hand drill - A paperclip - Some black paint 1st: While trimming the Shoulder bridges take advantage of the four corners already present on the excess of ABS to make things easier. You can also use long stripes of ABS and bend them with a lighter. (You can also find four corners like that on both Ammo belts) Trim them away with your x-acto without cutting the corner. You won’t be able to score & snape them so make as many passage as required to cut a whole side: And then, score & snap the other: Once the four are trimmed we begin to see the shape of the inner drop boxes: 2nd: Now you need to cut the ABS corners to the right length so they can fit inside the outer boxes: Take your time here, you can always cut some more if it’s too long, but adding material is much more difficult! 3rd: Now you need two large and flat pieces of ABS. You can normally find them on the excess of ABS around the handplates. If you can’t find a piece of ABS large enough, check the end of this How to So once you are happy with your corners, take them out and use them as a template to get the right dimension for the back of your Inner boxes: 4th: Now trim the back plate until it fits inside of your outer boxes. I proceeded one corner by one rather than trying to get the right shape from the first attempt. 5th: Here my back plate was a little too high... …so i had to take off some ABS on top of my corners/walls. The idea is to level the corners/walls until their height arrives right under the top of the outer boxes: Now the back plate should fit better: 6th: Now just glue the corners/walls along the edges of your back plate. You can e6000 them but rather, I would advise you to use CA glue for this because it’s impossible to clamp or magnet them. 7th: Use some ABS paste to smooth the junction between the corners/walls and the back plate. Then sand it or not, as you want: Don’t worry if the sides aren’t perfect because they won’t be apparent. 8th: Final result: Annex: If during the 3rd step you weren’t able to find a large enough plate of ABS, this is for you. I will only show you the theory here, but I had to use this technique for my second plate so I can assess it works. 1st: Find 2 pieces of ABS which when assembled together are large enough. The thicker they are, the easier it will be for you. Then cut straight the 2 pieces so they can fit together: 2nd: Score the edge’s middle on one of the piece with the tip of your x-acto: And use this scoring as a guide for hand-drill the piece in its thickness. While doing this keep your thumb and your index pressed tight against the piece faces, this way you can feel if you aren’t drilling straight and approaching the surface of one of the face. 3rd: Once you have your first hole, you need a matching one in the opposite piece. To do so, put some paint around the hole: And while it’s still fresh, align and press the two pieces together: Now you know where to counter drill the second piece: 4th: Repeat those steps all along the edges as much as possible. The more you do it, the stronger the bind will be. I would recommend three as a minimum. (Here the bottom of my pieces were too narrow for me to be able to make a third drill) 5th: Take your paperclip and cut it into several small tabs with a length that matches the depth of your holes: 6th: Then fit them into the holes: If you worked well , you should be able to slide the two pieces together: 7th: You now just need to glue the paperclip tabs inside their holes, and then glue the two ABS pieces together. 8th: Feel free to smooth the transition between the two pieces when you will make some ABS paste And that's it ! Thank you for reading this, I hope it will help some of you

Lot of good informations here for my next try, thank you all ! I'll keep you up-to-date if I manage to have better results.

I definitely didn't leave my ABS enough time in the acetone, so i'll try that And do you have any ratio estimation of abs/acetone for the mix that i may use ?

I melt some ABS scraps with acetone but as I don't know what ratio you should use I counted on my luck But now I'm asking myself: how long do you have to let the ABS in the acetone ? 24h ? Because I used my paste very quickly after the melting began.

Hi everyone, I made some ABS paste few days ago and once dry, I ended up with something very shiny and not really opaque. The shining issue didn't really matter as I sanded it after but the opacity problem is bothering me a little more. Is that normal with abs paste or did I screwed my abs paste ? Some pics: Shining Opacity (here I also tried to apply white paint over the paste) Thanks !

Bonne astuce c'est pas bête ^^, et très bon français au passage

Pour moi, ce qui me semble le plus simple reste le combo iComm + ampli Aker vendu ici sur le FISD: http://www.whitearmo...n-system-icomm/ http://www.whitearmo...?showtopic=8256 A condition, bien sur, que commander depuis les USA ne te dérange pas, parce qu'avec les frais de port le prix gonfle sensiblement :/ Et tu peux aussi acheter juste l'iComm et trouver un autre ampli en France pour alléger le coût. Sinon tu peux tester ça: http://www.plecterla...products_id=137 Le mec est français il me semble, mais le kit à l'air à mon sens un peu plus dur à mettre en place; mais je me trompe peut-être. Et sinon, utiliser son smartphone comme système... Le premier problème qui me vient à l'esprit c'est l'autonomie. Peut-être qu'en le passant en mode Avion ce serait viable mais autrement j'ai peur que la batterie ne tienne pas longtemps. Ensuite je ne sais pas si tu peux utiliser ton propre tel comme un ampli ? Y a surement une appli qui existe mais c'est pas sûr Et si effectivement tu peux, je ne sais pas si le micro du tel serait assez puissant pour te rendre audible ? Dernier problème, les gants sont l'ennemi du tactile ! Et comme les TK sont gantés et que les gants doivent être assez galères à mettre si ton avant-bras est déjà en place je pense que tu aurais du mal à mettre l'appli en route/la couper une fois en costume :s Après, il existe surement d'autre systèmes donc n'hésite pas à attendre d'autres avis !

For all of you troopers who are looking for a last chance to get TKBoots before a while , I think you could try this: -----------

Tu devrais trouver tout ce qu'il te faut ici: http://www.whitearmo...-a-canvas-belt/ Et tu peux aussi regarder ici pour quelques astuces, précision à propos de la largeur de la ceinture, etc... http://www.whitearmo...e-canvas-belts/ Bon courage

I think drilling the PVC pipe will be the most difficult for me too. It's really the step I fear the most ! And when I see all the resin dust that came with the sanding, maybe you should add, in addition of Airways protection, a pretty damn good hoover in your "tools used" list