The5thHorseman

FISD is a wonderful place : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23970-fs-centurion-level-rivet-sets/#entry301666

Action shot is here. Welcome to the ranks!! (the appproval shouldn't take that long )

Yes, CAP rivets with a 7mm head (1/32) are the accurate rivets for the ammo thigh pack. The same split rivets used for the left side of the armor are also accepted for Centurion, though they are supposed to be CAP rivets. The cap rivets are really easy to set. Just hammer down the two halves together and you're done. Just be sure to put the right half of the rivet toward the outside before hammering. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/19-how-to-install-cap-rivets-video/

Also, don't make them too tight around your legs. I like to say that you should be able to slip three-four fingers between your thigh and the external half of the thigh armor at the top.

I like it that way. No need to fix what doesn't need to be fixed .

You should trim equal amounts on each side in order to keep the cover stripes centered. And don't worry about removing the flat sections as on the original thighs there was none, they're here only for people who want to build their kit using the overlapping method. And yes, enclosing the thighs will require some strong magnets/tape/etc... However, do not trim immediately where the fitting tests imply, always begin by trimming several inches away from that line. Once trimmed, test again to check things out, and continue until you're good. For the record, here's about how much i removed from the back of my thighs:

You really pushed the AP armor to its last limit! Very nice work, your armor is truly superb. And excellent work on the kidney notches and return edges. The AP kit is really annoying on that point but you dealt with it like a boss. I'm just having trouble viewing your action picture. Might need to re-upload it.

That's only a matter of how tall is the guy in the armor: The blasters look like converted E-11. Hengstler on the wrong side, same for the mag well (if there's one), ...

I think Tunisian's law regarding firearms didn't authorized them to have real guns as props, so they had to make the Sterlings non functional.

You're welcome. Also, Bone, i have an answer about the grip's thickness for this new blaster. It is substantially thicker than a Sterling grip. I'd say around 1/3 thicker.

Good call doing it! I know this is a tough decision to make but unfitted thighs can really spoil the overall look of an armor. When you trim the excess at the back of your thighs, don't worry too much if the bottom ridge does not line up perfectly anymore, this doesn't really matter. Also, keep in mind that your trim lines should form an Upside-down "V":

Nice work so far . I'm a bit worried about your thighs not being fitted to your body though as i see you haven't trimmed anything at the back. Be careful of the "Church bell syndrome" (thighs fitted at the top but with too much room around the knees). The thighs should taper down.

I was wondering if you'd really chop that Sterling in half to make a proper Bapty, and you did!! Man, it must have been a tough decision to make .

Removing a pop-rivet is easy. Just drill it by the middle with a dremel/drill/etc...

I agree, seems well done to me. It's nice to see a WTF build!

You can clearly see how the sandtroopers were the first armors assembled, they're very "patched" together...

I think it's already good enough. But if you want to improve them, the clips are just wrapping around the pipe a bit too much. Straighten them at the back and everything should be fine.

I agree with the guys from RS, your measurements fall in the range for the stormtrooper armor. You're on the short side of the range so some trimming around the knees might be necessary to ease your walk, and you may benefit from some padding inside the armor to avoid it to rattle around too much, but there's not much to worry about. About materials, PVC is a brighter white but less flexible than ABS, or at least more subject to brittle . ABS has the screen-accurate off-white shade, is more flexible and is the original material used so I'd go ABS all the way against PVC. I also recommand their strapping package. It's expensive but it gives beautiful results. Watch some RS build thread to give you an idea about it. Look for the build threads from "Squeaky", "LeMaxim", "Bulldog44", "Echo", ... There's plenty around .

As Mathias says, black is fine, as it is to cut the loop.

Believe it or not but DarthAloha isn't even Centurion O_o. About these gaps you're so bothered by on the shins, they are supposed to be there! This is just the way it is, no matter what you will do about them, they'll still be there. The one thing to remind of is that the gaps are oriented towards the inside. So basically there will always be your other legs to stand in the way and to hide it when fully suited. I have the same system closure, the same gaps, i've done more than 20 troopings, and i've never seen these gaps noticeable on any pictures of me in armor. Also, the reason behind the hole in the TD pipe is to let an escape way for the air when you slide on both of the end caps. Otherwise it can get hard to slide them all the way. The hole is drilled where the main panel goes, then you slide on the end caps, and after that you glue the main panel over to hide the hole. And before you do anything on your TD i can see that the clips should be shortened. The top hole for the first screw should be right under the edge of the clip and not spaced like on Evilboy's clips. You can easily cut the excess off with a hacksaw or a dremel:

I've finished designing my version of the TFA blaster lately and you're giving ideas! Very nice work so far. Having the real parts to refer to will definitely help you a lot and make amazing results. Good luck!

TM for the win! Truly gorgeous.

Very nice work.

Yes, it is the eBay page of Trooperbay.

Very nice! I'll be watching this build with interest