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LadyInWhite

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by LadyInWhite

  1. Good f-ing lord, the fun never ends. WHAT IS THIS BELT BOX? I think it's the long pouch cover cut short and turned sideways. Unfortunately this is the only pic I have. Anyone else have a shot of this? Also, she does not seem to wear the forward pouch. Whatever. Bite me, I'm tired.
  2. Silly me, how often I forget to eat. I'm all chromed. Yay! I decided that in order to still be insanely attempting to be in this parade tomorrow, which is NOT going to happen as Phasma at this point, but an all nighter could change that... What was I saying? Oh yeah. In order to make it short-term, I used about 6 oz of airbrush Alclad 107 chrome, and it's fine. It's apparent why you need a super duper shiny undercoat super smooth glossy blah blah blah. It's also a bit tricky because the first couple of layers go on so shiny and then as you add more coats it starts to get foggy. I did the helmet last and it was the shiniest and also came out pretty nearly great. Not quite great. I buffed it with a paper shop towel until it is as shiny as possible... I could buff other parts but meh. The chest is also very reflective, considering i didn't wet sand that piece; some of the bondo showing on my forearms is screaming for weathering. When winter break comes around, I'll coat in the clear coat, then use my 2-part silvering solution, then the clear coat + violet. This should be even shinier and will go right over the Alclad without additional buffing etc. (Although I might sand a few scratches and fix the bondo first.) I'm looking for belt parts. I have to assemble that and fingers, then I can put the whole thing together as wearable. Fingers are coming from Gordon's 3D printer but not in time. I will use my chrome paper. I lost the upper part of hand plate. I may skip that for the Sunday version, or just chop the top off some old plastic hand plates that are about the same shape. All the accessories will come from Thorssen as soon as I get paid Monday and can send him money. Yay! I'm losing light... more later, including photos.
  3. Eye witness accounts confirm it is mirror-like chrome with weathering on top.
  4. Orange peel on the plastic happens when the pull isn't vac-formed fully tight and it gets a bubble-like texture to it, more like lemon peel, actually. A bunch of my parts have this, especially where it's thin. I would personally consider these pulls throw-aways but at the alpha time there was no such thing Orange peel on the paint is when it bunches up into a peely texture, usually where there's oil from fingerprints or it just doesn't like to adhere to the plastic. It happens a lot with this gloss because it doesn't like to stick to itself. There's also eggshell, which is a natural texture that comes from the fact that rattle can paint is pretty thick and has a bit of texture to it, even the gloss. You can really see it in a light; the gloss, for example, while perfectly reflective, is bumpy, so the reflections have jaggies. If thin, this is what the 2000 grit helps loosen off. You lower the height of the asperities and then the compound rubs the caps of the asperities off and deposits them into the valleys, making a smoother surface. Eventually enough polish can make glass smooth. My infernal problem is usually dripping, or drooping, when the paint is just 1 molecule too thick and sinks as it connects to the paint around it, creating a drip look in the paint. Sometimes these come off easily, sometimes they don't come off all the way down to the plastic. Much hatred for these. Today I resorted to wet sanding 600 to 1500 to get ride of orange peel, droops, and asperities, and now I'll polish to glass. Unfortunately, I'm running out of Maguiars, so I have to use the Turtle Wax until the last polish coat, then I am scraping the residue off with the Maguiar's. The one piece that I did not re-tackle is the chest piece, because it is nearly glass already, and I didn't want to paint it again, but if the abs, thighs, etc. come out amazing, I will wet sand the chest tomorrow and do it right. So I'm technically completely done painting and prepping... except for these last few polishes. Needed some family Turkey time anyway, and it's too "California cold" out (like 55' F). In Boston I could wear a t-shirt and shorts in 50 degrees; in Los Angeles 55 feels like 55 below - it chills right to the bone. Totally weird. (I happen to love cold, just not this kind of cold!) Also I started a help group on Facebook to share more resources. Feel free to join, follow, etc. It's closed to avoid every post ending up in our feeds but it's open to us all. https://www.facebook.com/groups/captainphasma/
  5. I'm all black, and the armor got some paint, too! Lots of shiny! A LOT of wet sanding and more glaze applications, more sanding, more wet sanding... There are a few places that need some extra work (it's weird where/how paint "drips" - hate that!). The chest, which I insist ahve at least the major front center area be perfect, took 4 tries to get it perfect. Stupid paint. But it's good now, one tiny flaw on the side which no one will see or care and at this point my tolerance is higher. The chemicals arrived and I need to be glossy glassy tonight to start immediately in the morning. (Yes, this is the preferred way to spend holiday!) In these images you can see it's far less shiny on the right side, but one more layer after the photos took care of that. I wanted to lay down several coats today so if there are any issues while buffing it will be easy to fix quickly tomorrow. You can also see the natural "rattle can" eggshell texture, which will be smoothed out with 1500 and 2000 and then made glossy again with Maguiar's. (I switched because M is stronger/faster, and does not leave a white-ish film on the armor. Huge difference!) You might ask, why aim for shiny if you're going to sand and buff anyway? The answer: It's easier to wipe quickly with 2000 than to sand for 10 minutes. The glossier the easier.
  6. Ugh. Kill me now. My arms are falling off. I'm ambidexterous and can do a lot of polishing and sanding with my left arm, but holy moly is it underdeveloped. So both arms are dying, and I haven't even done the big pieces yet. I showed a photo to Gordon over Messenger and he said "almost there, keep polishing" -- seriously, mirror finish. Almost there, yes. "Good enough." Sorry, it's blurry and grainy. I think Gordon is out to kill me. Or whoever decided I should have one of these stormtrooper kits. Of course, I might be over-doing it. I mean, not only can you NOT see the under-side of the TD, but it will be under a cape. Who knows if she even wears it? Heck, I don't even have to wear it. Some of these have amazing gloss finish. But not enough of them. I am definitely going to wet sand the big pieces. Spray, dry, spray, dry, spray, dry, wet-sand, spray again if needed, and so on, smooth as milk (black milk!) and then polish until mirror reflective. Yay. ----- Earlier: When my last rattle can was running down, I tackled the inside edges. I don't want any white showing, and it's a pain to paint the edges AFTER you've achieved a nice gloss on the main parts. At least this part of the insanity should end on Wednesday.
  7. Gawd I hope not! TODAY'S ACCOMPLISHMENTS: I love vacation!!! I finished sanding, did a little more bondo glaze on some big scratches, then sanded some more. I have yet to sand my helmet, that dang thing is super bumpy! Had to charge the drill to put on my attachments. I should mention that my bondo work came out lovely -- until I freaking painted and I might as well not have bothered and screw you, Bondo! Spray painting is going more slowly than I expected, and the shorter days isn't helping. I had some trouble with orange peeling on the paint today, just one can for some reason, maybe it didn't mix right or was faulty, so a lot of wet-sanding and then re-spraying. The second can was fine, and thank goodness because I used that on my bigger pieces. I just did the edging because I hate trying to get those after you have a nice big gloss then the overspray screws up your gloss... so I got one more can and I might need one more for a second coat. (Let's hope this can isn't faulty!) All the small parts are in the house for some polishing tonight. After my son goes to bed (I need some Minecraft time!) I'll work on the belt assembly, then clean house to get ready for the cape, which takes up the entire living room floor. I'm leaving the bottom (attaching) boxes black; I can paint-chrome them later. They don't need to be mirror chrome, but the tops of the boxes do, so I won't be assembling fully until that's done. My chemicals arrive Wednesday. Let's hope that means morning. I am pretty certain she won't be wearable for a 3.2 mile march on Sunday. However, she may be done and assembled... we'll see.
  8. On the waxing/chroming/painting/sanding/whatever topic: I'm super glad to have so many other links, suggestions, and so on here. I'm sure this will help all current & future Phasma builders have more opportunities to weight their options. Regarding my choices: I have chosen a mid-level do-it-yourself silvering chemical spray to chrome my armor. The alternatives are chrome paint, which is never sharp enough, and chrome vinyl wrap, which had built-in orange peel but was mighty reflective otherwise. On the other end of the spectrum is send it out which is (a) super expensive, but certainly the most desirable, and ( super time consuming, which would take me well beyond the movie opener, much less this parade I'm consigned not to make. (TK!) Gordon Tarpley has made many C3PO suits that are spectacular using this method, process, materials, etc. I am literally purchasing exactly what he tells me and what he uses himself. If he can make his 3POs come out brilliantly (and I have seen one in person, one was on the Jimmy Kimmel show), I know this process will work for me. He's done it enough that he knows what corners to cut and how to finagle things to be just right, like using Elmer's Glue to weather. He is a neighbor; he is also currently chroming Michael Bender's Phasma helmet using all this. In this method, the chrome solution is a 2-part mixed solution that layers a mist of silver particles onto the existing paint. The urethane clear coat has a natural yellowing tint to it, and so it is necessary to add a dye to counteract the tint; thus, in 3PO he puts a gold dye, and in silver chrome you add a violet dye. These are all products sold by Alclad and other spray chroming suppliers so trust me when I say this is "normal." Unfortunately for the Phasma helmet he's doing, I'm almost a step ahead, but I haven't done anything but wash the helmet so far. His videos are here. I was able to get a compressor, mid-quality spray gun, hoses, cleaning kit, valve adapter, and a few other things for $163 including tax. (I also borrowed a larger compressor from a friend today.) That definitely didn't break my bank. The silver compound and other materials cost me $94 plus shipping. The biggest cost to me is time... and there is NO WAY I can get a pro painter to paint these 60+ parts for less than $250 and then still have to chrome it myself. Sending out for chroming would be $2500 or much, much more. Also I looked for automotive black airbrush paint and only found stuff with pearling or metallic, and not to mention I don't want to wait another minute for shipping. As it is, I'm not sure when my chroming chemicals will arrive - I was hoping Monday but I haven't received a UPS confirmation yet... sigh. The point is, I need to be ready to go when they arrive. Let's be clear: I'm not waxing anything. It's a polishing compound just like we use to get our shinies shiner. Personally I might switch from Turtle Wax back to Maguires which I like better than Novus. Anyway, it works like the finest grit sandpaper. The purpose is to get a smooth surface and a sharp reflection. TODAY'S WORK: I thoroughly washed and rinsed every part with dish soap and water, scrubbed as best I could with a microfiber cloth, and then sprayed a final rinse with distilled water. Everything air-dried to avoid static and particulates. I sprayed black gloss. I practiced on some scraps and my old clone shins, and it's all good. I found the perfect technique to get a nice gloss after 2-3 coats. The hard part is getting the edges. Tomorrow i have to hit a few pieces again and then do my big pieces. I'm going to start from the inside so that I get my edges without oversaturating the fronts. So far, no eyeballs or whatever. I found that sanding with 320 evenly before spraying the black gloss yields a much glossier finish from the get-go. So after having sprayed all the boxes and some back parts, I sanded all my main/visible parts except the chest and ab. I would have continued but it's past 11pm and I'm sure my neighbors will be calling the police soon. I'll finish those parts in the morning. I haven't used the 2000 grit for anything yet. The most important thing I discovered today is that the orange peel is all over the @(#(&@ place on the plastic itself. It's easier to find while sanding, so I'm attempting to grind that stuff down. There's a bunch on my thighs and shins, which I noticed when I opened my box and started that process way back when. But What can you do. Those parts are thin and I may have to hit them with some glaze instead. However, Pam is weathered and some of the orange peel is in places "who cares" like between the thighs, so if that's not perfectly shiny chrome, I'll survive. Also, I'll be swapping my left and right shoulder bells, since they are interchangable anyway; the more peely one will go on the left under the cape now, while the super shiny one will go on the right where it is exposed. Some of my botchy bondo work on the TD shows through the paint, but I've seen worse... plus NOBODY WILL EVER EVER SEE IT so it's a good practice piece, as is the butt plate and the back piece.
  9. Peter, where have you been all my life! The 2000 grit is after the paint to get rid of orange peel. The turtle wax is to shine, polish, and fill in any "orange peel" variations so the thing is smooth. I am just doing what Gordon recommended and what he does, but I most certainly don't want to ruin the very bottom layer, so I will look for the higher quality paint. I don't already have a sprayer so I still have options. Angelguilding sells a compressor-less sprayer in their kit but it's one more thing to have to learn. For the urethane clear coat, I wasn't talking rattle can Can't mix the tint in that anyway. I am looking for higher quality which is why I thought a car shop might work... but if they don't carry better clear coats, I'll shop around. It's the last step so I have a day or two to figure that out and get it ordered if it isn't local. Suggestions for that?
  10. Of course! Steal away! I have finally made the leap and ordered my spray chroming materials from http://angelgilding.com/. Based on gordontarpley videos on YouTube, as well as his personal assistance (I'm sure he cringes every time Messenger shows me pinging him!)... I'm doing the Alclad system. That said, Gordon has a lot of tips and tricks for saving both time and money... So instead of ordering an entire kit, I am ordering: 2-Part Spray Silver Concentrate, 120 ml Uni-Coat Lightfast Tint - Violet, 2 fl oz Sensitizer for 2-Part Silver, 30 ml Wetting Agent, 60 ml Measuring Cylinder, 250 ml Measuring Cylinder, 50 ml Then, at a local car shop / PepBoys, I'll get a urethane clear coat & hardener as the final step, rather than the super expensive stuff on Angelguilding.com. (Naturally I expect to find it expensive everywhere.) I already have a few other items, such as Turtle Wax polish; I need to get more cans of Krylon gloss black, I have a trigger, a 1000 ml cylinder, I need a proper respirator. The final killer will be to find an airbrush, ideally to borrow from someone, but at worst I'll buy one, and an air compressor, which I can buy, borrow, steal, or rent, and two gravity-fed bottles, and two regular spray bottles, and I have sandpaper galore. This is how I understand the procedure at this time: Step 1: Wash the dust, static, tape grime, and so on off in a warm bath; rinse with distilled water. Step 2: When dry, paint gloss black. Sand with 2000 grit if needed to smooth finish. Buff. Step 3: Wipe on car polish with a barely damp paper towel until the mirror reflection is incredibly sharp in the paint. Buff lightly. Step 4: Dilute and spray on Wetting Agent with spray bottle, as evenly as possible. Step 5: Dilute and spray on Sensitizer. (Gordon is mixing them and doing it in one step, we'll see if I can get clarity on measurements.) Step 6: Mix and airbrush silvering agent onto parts using finest spray setting and 15-20 PSI, 2-3 inches from the part, in sweeping motions. Step 7: Buff lightly with tissue or toilet paper frequently during silvering; touch up any exposed parts. Step 8: Mix violet tint into clear coat and coat the parts; follow up with hardener. Step 9: When cured (not dried), paint on Elmer's Glue for weathered look. Scrape or rub off areas to reveal shiny. Step 10: Assemble parts. I estimate 4 full days, including Thanksgiving Day if my husband is cooking and I don't get my stuff until Monday: Tues, Weds, Thurs, Fri. This weekend is all washing, painting, polishing, and maybe doing some more cape prep if I need a break. I do have one child's soccer game and one Make-a-Wish appearance tomorrow, but WE CAN DO THIS! Hopefully in that span, my new accessories from Thorssen will arrive and I can chrome them too; if not, I'll be using the stretch vinyl chrome on all those temporary parts. I seriously am crazy.
  11. Absolutely. I've been scouring photos from two people from D23, as well as the Vanity Fair and other photos/screen grabs, and boy oh boy. There are some issues with the mannequin version at D23. Some of it really leads me to believe parts of the screen used suit were replaced for this, or modified, or had broken and been repaired (shoddily). So for some of that I'm going to assume the problems weren't on screen or that the shape or texture of the armor is what the TK would have. Her right chest, for ex., has warping on either the plastic or the chroming, it is not a trick of the light, it's pretty clear bubbles. And the shim under her chest, my hubby thinks that might be part of the stand, or part of a suit under it. Her arms are too long, and her cape has been readjusted between the two photo sets (two different days) which made me make some bad assumptions about the cape and the Vanity Fair photo is what made up my mind which way to go. I really hope she is just a bad-an impolite person TK captain and not some kind of invisibility Spec Ops type character, though honestly, if it comes down to a FO detachment, that's fine too. MY HEART IS ALWAYS AT FISD! As I create or modify each part of the suit (in my "draft versions") I am crafting verbage to perhaps submit for the CRL. Perhaps I should include this in my so-called build thread (more like my slave Leia & moan thread) as well. It's hard to describe some shapes like the hand plates in words. The photos are going to be worth a thousand words. That said, I'm totally happy to be working WITH others on this, or collecting CRL descriptions from others and consolidating, or just giving mine to someone else! This is not an ego project, it's an endurance project. So far it's wood chipper 2, Ingrid 1.
  12. Okay, moving on... to the cape!!! This was fun. Using my 12" HWT doll "Freckles" and a cloth serviette, I tried several "maneuvers" with wrapping the cloth around the doll until I could match the reference images. The "tutorial" (process?) is here. If that doesn't work try here and cycle through the images. The cape is indeed a triangle. I believe it is an equilateral right triangle with the hypotenuse being rounded to the radius of the edges. There may be some additional shortening closer to the right side, as the folds decrease in length quite rapidly. I'm going to build my "test" cape using an old flannel sheet and if it needs adjusting I will do that before cutting my painters canvas. I'm guesstimating my final height to be 6'2" (trying to add another 2" somehow) but given the drag length of the left corner, i should have room to grow. EDIT: After making the rounded version, I have concluded that straight cut may be more accurate. EDIT 2: I take it back!!! It is totally rounded!! ROUND IT!!! EDIT 3: Triangles be danged. After a 2-hour evaluation of all photos, playing with Freckles and some more fabric, and shaping and reshaping a variety of options, I have to conclude that Brian's napkin is a fair approximation of the shape. It is not quite 90 degrees. In fact what I am finding is that it is a series of 3 trapezoids, the left and right sides having parallel lengths, and the center/back having a more traditional trapezoidal shape. I'll post "patterns" soon and we can evaluate from there. I've already destroyed one sheet, and can't find another, so I may next begin taping paper together... The canvas isn't that expensive that if I screw it up I can't replace it, but I'd rather not have to get out of my PJs today. There are TWO full seams, each on either side of the back plate position. I can't see any pockets or straps on the right side, only the folds. The left side has the 3 4 pockets and 3 straps: one comes out of the lower pocket and two come out from inside the cape. In my images from the D23 mannequin the two inner straps look more like leather than canvas, but I'll be asking around. EDIT: I am investigating the positioning of the seams. There's something weird because there may be 3 seams, but their positioning is off-center based on the wrapping, so the center seam is beside the right side of the back, and the right-most seam is hidden in the folds. WILL LET YOU KNOW. EDIT 2: Yay! More discoveries! How did I not see this before! There are 4 pockets!!! While investigating the left seam, I saw that it is covered by a pocket, and I don't have a good angle to see whether the pocket overlaps the seam, but I did notice it is a pocket above the two pockets. I'm sure there are people out there who already figured this out, but for me it's like playing Where's Waldo and discovering a hidden treasure instead! Anyway, I think it overlaps the seam by about an inch, which will make sewing particularly challenging... I found an angle with a better look at the closure, also in those images on Facebook. There is about a 1" fold with sewn seam at the top front corner, and potentially also the back connection, which may be connected by bra hooks, or may even be sewn simply for the sake of wearing. If functional, it would need to come apart and clasp differently, because that would make a weird bend in the cape's right side... but as we haven't seen any other "shape" prior to the movie yet, I am assuming she's all look and no function. For the purposes of costuming, I will be using velcro to hold down the cape parts anywhere they should remain in place, such as across the front chest, and possibly in the folds. I feel like I am writing the CRL as I go... but hey, that's what I get for being a pioneer.
  13. Vacuum Metalizing process will cost me anywhere from $2500-5000 based on some estimates I got from some local folks this week. I am afraid that that is quite out of my budget. I still have one quote out but if it is going to take many weeks (one said 3-6 weeks) it's definitely not worth it. I have a deadline. Thus we are looking at all other chroming options: rattle can, alsa/alclad type paint systems, and stretch film are the fore-runners right now. Chroming experiment - Day 1. Did not quite get the gloss black base I needed... I mean, it was not GLASSY gloss black. But nevertheless, we all knew "chrome" spraypaint wasn't going to cut it. It's just not reflective enough unless it goes on super thick, in which case it runs etc. (Hey, I had to try!) Anyway, instead of polishing with compound like we do with our TKs, I apparently needed to polish with a car polish, like, an actual POLISH, like Turtle Wax. (Thanks, Gordon!) Nevertheless, we will try this if we go the Alclad route, which is currently our #2 solution. Chroming experiment - Day 2. I'll keep you up to date on how this goes (Tuesday), because I ordered VVIVID chrome stretch film ($20 for a short roll) to see if this works. If it turns out Phasma dies like Maul or is a total loser character, I can rip off all the chrome film and paint her white again. (And buy a new cod.) I have some old clone parts I've been using to experiment painting and what-not, so I am going to use them to see if this chrome film will work decently. EDIT! Well this is the cheap stuff and it might work ok on my temp parts like the foot and heel armor, but it's probably not going to cut it as a long term solution. I will be doing Alclad after all, at least on the most important parts I can get done in time for the parade, but the sticky vinyl comes off so I could use it for belt boxes and smaller items temporarily as well. Ugh what a pain in the bupkus. If this works, this is my #1 solution. If not, if it doesn't have the look I want, we're on to Alclad. WISH ME LUCK.
  14. That looks like a good start. I think my brain is trying to make it bigger/rounder/wrappier, but it just drapes. It drapes with a LOT of folds though. (And don't forget it has pockets on the back left.) Good idea starting with the figure, though.. duh!!! I shall conscript Freckles, my 10" HWT. You bet, thinking mylar from a space blanket. (I keep thinking how incredibly CHEAP this workaround for her flexibility was... seriously, costumers, FOIL!?) Triangle base sounds about right. There is a lot of bunching over the left shoulder, which leads me to believe it is gathered not hanging down the back. The enclosure on the right shoulder is always hidden from view. I'm going to velcro the sh** out of the chest and yoke to keep it all in place, not unlike many vader capes, but far more of it!
  15. I'm really stressing out over this deadline. I will have to cancel everything between now and Thanksgiving... especially if i have to assemble my kitchen vac table (I bought parts for one about 4 years ago) and also do my own chroming. I want the vacuum chroming for at least the major parts (helmet, chest, abs, thighs, arm pieces) but it won't be as critical for the smaller and less-visible parts (does she even wear a TD? I assume so... ). Her boot armor looks like brushed metal although the sign says it's chromed. Just not polished. I can get away with some of that. Will have to save that to the end to test colors. SO. Here's the Mod list. I have make-shift toe, instep, and heel armor. I have a lot of badly designed lower shins. I have to do lower calves, they will be fairly easy. I have converted TFA TK cod to flame trooper cod, but really want a proper one. Fingers - my source may not be done in time so I may just make those myself for back-up. (really all of this is "back-up" until I can get proper parts made or found!) I have to reshape the extra wrist/hand guards. My weapon may not be done in time but this is less critical. I still have to figure out the cape shape, then pattern, cut, sew, dye, coat and paint. I can use my TFA TK gaskets in a pinch but I want to make my own... I need to mod the boots a bit to ensure they will support my balance while wearing lift inserts. After chroming helmet will need interior assembly plus black parts painted. For the regular parts, I still need to assemble the ab boxes (I am missing box #7 and I sure hope it turns up!) and the belt. Prime, chrome, assemble with strapping... Droid melt-down factory... Sigh. I feel like this needs another year. BUT FOR ALL OF YOU MAKING THIS COSTUME -- by the new year I hope to have bucks and a proper vac-former so I can make parts for you all! If anyone beats me to it, PLEASE SHARE!
  16. Which maker is it? If the resin is soft enough, it's very easy to trim the inner lip with a dremmel sander and hand sanding. The eyes I dremmeled as close as I could get, then used a metal rasp to clean the edges to the lines. In my opinion this part is way easier than chroming
  17. I made some lower shins and the shape is good but they are sorely lacking in the level of detail I want. WILL TRADE WOOD CHIPPER FOR VAC TABLE
  18. Okay so I got the toe, arch, and heel armor made (sabaton!). The toes were a pain because of the front curves, and since I don't have a vacuum former handy I did the ol' fashioned heat gun method. I used a few practice pieces and it's "good enough for the parade." ( As soon as that's done I'm driving to Scootch's to use his vacuum former... someone give him a heads up, please! ) I'm using the thick ABS for-sale signs for now, and it's good because I at least have a physical model to use to sculpt. I formed the armor parts to each boot, so they are fitting perfectly with only a few tiny imperfections because a section doesn't like to shape itself if the whole sheet isn't soft. I started the front shin armor and that was a bit of a disaster. The shape is excellent, but for whatever reason the plastic did not want to curve properly (as all the other pieces had done!) I know those sheets "prefer" to melt in one direction, but even that didn't help. Oh well, at least I have a template. These parts really need to be sculpted and vac-formed but that will be second stage Awesomeness. I assembled all the assembled upper body parts on the mannequin, which, sadly, is so damn skinny I can't get the chest piece on him. But it's good to see it all coming together. Of course, then I realized I haven't glued the ab boxes yet. I figure tomorrow after school I can start on the belt parts, though I don't want to attach them until they are chromed. My deadline is Nov. 28. The parade is Nov. 29. Fingers crossed! I'll get some pics up soon...
  19. OK I'm a lot less giddy today, and special thanks to the veterans of this country since the 18th century, I get a day to work on boot armor and lower shins. And maybe I'll get a pattern made for the cape. I'm saving that for when "Pam" goes out for chroming. I don't think I can do "vacuum plating" myself... nor does it need to be that way, but I want durable chrome.
  20. I'm sorry I didn't reply to this earlier! I wear a lady's XL leather glove, probably analogous to a men's medium, if that tells you anything. I'm going to make temp finger pieces that go around the glove, so ultimately it doesn't matter what my hand measurements are -- they have to match the glove. The gloves I got for $10 from a street vendor in NYC are plain, faux-fur lined leather driving gloves with the only seam along the finger lines as seen in Phasma's extreme close-ups of her hands. Ultimately I'd like silicone or rubber versions of her finger armor permanently affixed to the gloves, not unlike the ANH TK hand plates. Gordon Tarpley (C3PO) says it's nearly impossible to bend the fingers properly, and I can't imagine holding the gun or pulling the trigger. Spoiler / Speculation: She wears those finger types because she has mechanized arms. Cyborg!
  21. I think I have all my Bondo & initial sanding/grinding/cursing done. I think. I mean there are a few tiny areas where the bondo came off or made bubbles or whatever, despite me following the directions of 17 YouTube videos and all that jazz. Anyway, when I go back to do primer sanding I will fix those tiny little bits. With toothpaste. Hey that dries about the same as bondo. Well, snot is a better adhesive, as is phlegm... Okay I know this because I am a science teacher. Please people. I also reinforced my shoulders, because I hear there's some serious and unavoidable crack in my future. My only worry is that my neighbors will post it on the neighborhood watch web site; they tend to get very persnickety about people doing MJ in their cars in our block, and they'd probably flip if someone had crack in their block. I can hear the whirlybirds now... And what did I use? Scraps. Yes, people never throw away your scraps. And don't feed them to the dog. Scraps will save your butt. In my case I could stand to lose a few dozen pounds off it so maybe I shouldn't be saving it. Anyway... I've totally lost my mind, high from fumes and snorting fiberglass and time changes and the thought of a visit from that chemistry teacher from that TV show.
  22. Husband brought back some black leather gloves from NYC, acquired at low cost, very nice gloves, I hate to destroy them with Armor Fingers!
  23. What the!!! Maybe it's just built differently since they didn't want to build 2 of them.
  24. HOLY SMACKS, BILLY! THANK YOU!!!! Just that sign alone helps! I did find out it is canvas -- drop cloth, actually... so I bought that! I spent most of today and yesterday buying things to make into other things and then some time making the things. And some of it worked out and some of it not so much. ( A ) Where do I get a flame trooper cod? Who is making those?! Is Anovos the only maker of Star Wars costumes for TFA? I made my own today, converted from my cod. It looks a little narrow but I was "measuring" from the various 60 or so photos I have from D23. And so there is no going back - this girl will fly! The temp cod will suffice until I get a flame trooper cod. ( B ) I also made the wrist greeblie thingies, shaped from wood, to be sealed. Upon review, they are too long and have some additional shaping to make them more "right" ... until such time as I can get them "perfect" They weren't hard, just time consuming. ( C ) I got a bunch of bondo-ing done, but my bondo skills suck and it just means I have 200 hours of sanding b.s. ahead of me. Ugh. ( D ) There was something else but I can't remember what. OH! Helmet!!! I trimmed the helmet all nice and sharp, and cut out the eyes, and sanded stuff and it's better than my shock trooper lid and better than my TK eyes... I must be getting better at that. Oh and I am not sure but I am starting to think the connectors on the lower shins are the same treated canvas sprayed silver/metallic. They're kind of like mylar but not, and they are not duct tape as I originally thought from the Vanity Fair photo in front of the castle.
  25. I'm acquiring things to make the things. I'm really stumped at this freaking cape. Is it tarp? Is it clear-coated or plasticized canvas or denim... or something much more complicated and rare? It is shiny... but it is thick and dense. It's lopsided. It has pockets on the outside and jean stitching. This is no Vader cape. This is hell. Anyone have a clue? Insider insight?
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