TheDon

I have the fronts going on. I'm building a TD and maybe police officer but I'll shoot for just regular so no TK levels for me. I did leave the molded cover strip on the back because it seems to work for me on the back. How do they look? Cover strips are being made now. They so rotate when I walk so I think some Velcro on the front of my boots might help stop that.

I'm following the tutorial for AM shins. 7/8" for the front. The backs I might be able to keep the integrated cover strip.

Where can one procure a DLT-19?

You pay too much... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UFWDPK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought two and both still don't make my abs look like that

So after going over the AM armor shin tutorial/ PSA I trimmed the fronts and taped them together. Can you all help me verify that they are correct and which leg they go on. My shins aren't as full as some people so the while contour thing isn't working out for me.

I hope it's Orlando. Orlando makes the most sense since there is a lot of convention space and hotel rooms right by the convention center. Plus it's easy to make into a vacation. If it were to be in.....Dallas it would work but I probably wouldn't go

For boots check out tkboots.com

I lived in Davenport too, now Windermere. I have AM 1.0 and I'm a skinny guy so I'm doing a lot of trimming but the armor is very nice

I can't really square them off. What you see is where I accidentally went past the mold lines. I might paint it black to hide it I have flexible hand guards I want to put in my gloves, how should I glue them on? I think that will help setting the arms up. I'm going to head to lowes for some of the adhesive backed pipe insulation to line the forearms with. Haven't made cover strips yet. What part should I work on next? I think my arms are good to go in my opinion. The ends of the straps have velcro so I can dial in the length. Added 3/4" pipe insulation foam to the forearms and they stay in place and look better. Tried the arms on with my compression shirt and it looks right to me when compared to Police Officer submission photos.

Bucket is done. I'll weather everything at once. Not done with the strapping yet. I need to make the strap for the forearm longer and make the clips for the biceps to hold them in place. I also need to get foam for the insides of the forearms. I'm not sure which part I should work on next because it seems one relies on the other. I'd like to hang the shoulder bells to get the strapping set just right. I'm doing snaps on one end and industrial Velcro on the other so I can dial it all in, I just didn't make the strap long enough for the forearms. What so you all think?

No pictures yet but I have the biceps and forearms starting the glue up process. Half is glued and clamped, I'll let them cure for 24 hours before moving to the other side. I need to buy some better clamps, the slapping strength isn't enough. Helmet is almost done. Waiting for ears to dry Nd then I'll mount t them and call the bucket done.

I suggest painting it when the bucket isn't assembled. I painted the inside of mine with (for plastic) black spray paint and it came out nice. Plasti dip isn't permanent which is why I think some here go with it.

waiting for my decals to finish it off and potentially new ears but I might just roll with what I have for now. The left ears lower screw hole lines up directly with the rivet I used to join the two helmet halves so I need to drill that out so I can just use the screw to hold it all together at that spot. That and glue the lenses in and the frown mesh.

Test fitting. I can flex my guns and scratch my nose so far. Guess I'll do the forearm to get one side ready to glue up. I'm goig to glue a shim behind to make it a strong joint.

I used it to glue on my snap plates and bicep elastic and it's pretty strong. I won't doubt it anymore.

I've started on the biceps. I have one side trimmed and almost ready to glue. I'm going to use the trimmed off pieces to act as a shim for the back so it's easier to glue. Once I get the other side somewhat trimmed I'll post up pictures for you guys to tell me if I messed up. I test fir them and even flexing my massive guns ( joke) it's good. I just want to make sure it will look correct when done. Also, e6000 will be good for glueing up how I proposed? Thanks

I was there as well just as a guest. I did take a selfie with a trooper. No idea who

I had two cracks form on the bells return edge on the center portion where the raised bump is. I flattened it out with the iron and cut some thin strips of abs and used some gap filling CA to form a patch across the back so they don't flex. I need to get a for sale sign so I have decent abs scraps to use. I need to figure out how everyone attaches the elastic that goes across the bottom of the shoulder bell. It looks like everyone just cuts a strip and uses E6000 to glue it to the elastic and to the bell. I did sand the edge down with 80 to 1500 grit sandpaper and I will say that really makes a difference, cleans it up nice. I got some more sanding to do to make it nice, or not since it's going to be a sandy and I need some real battle damage/weathering. This morning I also bought some of the last stuff I need. TK boots, Darman neck seal, ICOMM, and aker voice amp. Last thing I need is a pauldron and then I'll have everything.

Trimmed my shoulder bells an inch and gave them a return edge. I practiced with some scrap and did alright. I need to clean these up with the dremel and go over them with progressive grits of wet sanding and then a little polish. I think I did ok especially with the thick park on the bells.

Well I drilled the 4th holes on each side. I looked at the ANH stunt reference photos and did notice a slight dip on either side of my frown and measured and marked. I can't go any bigger so hopefully this will do. ----------- I'll let the paint dry for a day before cleaning up the edges. I didn't use the smallest detail brush I had in the left side point. I also touched up my vocoder. That's honestly as good as I can get it. I'll let the paint cure, chip away any extra and hopefully call it good.

I have needle files. I'll square them off. I'm goig to do the 4th tooth on each side carefully this week. I did free hand the frown.

I feel like I royally screwed up my frown now. My teeth have no depth like yours. ---------- From far away it looks decent....I just want to appease the 501st approval people. Excuse the crappy paint job. I have no detail to work with and will use more tape. The tooth pick scraping method has been useful. I should have drilled into the frown first instead of sanding from the back. If I square off the rest of the teeth and use a tiny drill bit for the last two teeth with a small file I can probably make it work. My neighbor has an RS set I can measure off from to get an idea of tooth location. I'm very upset now looking at all of your T/MC helmets. Tomorrow my hobby iron comes in. I can use it to bring the eye bump down a little not really sure how much more I should trim from the eye sockets.

I'm going to go with them for now. I have spare decals I can experiment with to weather them and what not. I'll get creative.

Repositioned the brow. It's TD now So I think I'm goin to strip the paint off the details and just use decals. I have TD traps but the tear drops have lines so I need TD tears. I did clean up the vocoder and I'll clean it up some more. Same thing with the frown. That's cleaned up. I used my heat gun to heat up the lenses and have them a little bit of a bend so hot glue can easily hold them now. Before the sugru had to fight the lenses. At least I tried painting. Next helmet will be hand painted for sure.

I did rivet the bottom on but I need to remove the rivet and place it elsewhere. I'll raise it up a little Bit. I do need to post on MEPD about my build, haven't gotten to it yet. Painting over with white enamel sounds like a good idea,get that real screen used look. I already dropped it once on the concrete floor,weathering!!