Locitus

Thread closed. A new staffer will need to take over after the elections. How to get your new Centurion certificate! Reply to this topic like this, and I mean only like this. Be careful about spelling because I will not double check that you spelled your name correctly. First-name Last-name 501st-ID EIB A4/Letter No nicknames. No "TK". Just the number. Example: Mathias Rodstedt 2959 EIB A4 So if you are American and want a letter sized certificate, write Letter. If you want an A4 sized certificate, write A4. I will then reply to your post with a link to your certificate. It comes in a 300 dpi png-format picture, so you can send it straight to your printer if you want. Sample:

Thread closed. A new staffer will need to take over after the elections. How to get your new Centurion certificate! Reply to this topic like this, and I mean only like this. Be careful about spelling because I will not double check that you spelled your name correctly. First-name Last-name 501st-ID Centurion A4/Letter No nicknames. No "TK". Just the number. Example: Mathias Rodstedt 2959 Centurion A4 So if you are American and want a letter sized certificate, write Letter. If you want an A4 sized certificate, write A4. I will then reply to your post with a link to your certificate. It comes in a 300 dpi png-format picture, so you can send it straight to your printer if you want. Sample:

Those boots are a no-go right off the bat. The rest you can work with to improve.

Nothing from the original trilogy is symmetric. That's what you get when it's hand sculpted instead of that silly CGI.

I'm thinking it might be a result from AP using a smaller diameter pipe, and there's in that case not much to do about it other than replacing the whole thing. Which we obviously don't require. But replacing the rivets with flat head machine screws would be a nice touch.

Yeah, here. I can't circle the area (well, I can, but I'm lazy). Look at the shoulder bridges and you'll see there's a gap between them and the chest in their outer corners. Look at the shadows and you'll spot it easily.

No, not really. Sure there are some shrinkage and warping from when LFL recast their previous suits to make new moulds for ROTJ, but the aside from the assembly and closure methods not so much different.

AP in itself is not too small for approval. Not even on a larger guy like Jeroen. But it should be noted that AP is not the best choice for someone of this size. As it is now, it's like buying a size S shirt and getting your sewing maching out to make it fit a size L body instead of just buying a size L shirt in the store to begin with.

Different way of closing in the back as well. Elastic and hooks vs velcro.

Ah, you meant that with the thigh. Yes, that is obviously not glued down very well. And yeah, at second look it seems almost as the shin closes outwards instead of inwards. That needs to be adjusted if that's the case. Thanks Charles.

I'm not agreeing completely with Charles. The thigh cover strips are not supposed to go all the way down, as he suggests. And the back of the shin "gap" is a result of the hook and elastic method that can be spotted if looking carefully. So that's not a problem. The knee ammo belt is riveted in the wrong position though. The rivet should be in the top corner. Rather than 10% down and 40% in as yours, 5% down and 5% in is a better position. Futhermore the radius of the rounded bottom of the knee belt is too small. It should be roughly twice as large. A good tip on this is to place a paint spray can on the belt lined up with the outer belt boxes and trace the can until you get to 90 degrees and then just go vertically straight up. As for the bowing out kidney I would recommend taking a look at that. It may need some work on your shims. Overall, I think AP is too small for your frame. I do not see a need to shorten any of the torso elastics, but I would suggest shortening the elastics holding your shoulder bells. I would also suggest moving the shoulder bridges (by this I mean the ribbed plastic parts) slightly back in order to be able to glue them down properly and not have that gap between them and the chest when seen from the side. And for the helmet paintjob I suggest you go over it once more with a fine brush and do another layer on the black lines, as well as the grey frown. It will help to smooth out the lines, and make them look less jagged. But for EIB approval, this is still an easy pass.

You don't need to replace the handguards. But the best route is to talk to any of the armour makers to see if they have spares to sell. Also, make sure to have a look at www.mepd.net

I want them to see me coming. Wow, that can be taken out of context...

I typo'd mushrooms but I've fixed it now.

Yes, it's the same as the sides.

I think I've seen it, but the problem is that it doesn't look as how you're imagining it. So there is no upside to doing so. And you don't loose any structural integrity by using coverstrips if you do it properly.

Look at real helmet, pick one you like and emulate that. Don't look at other peoples helmets.

Don't don't have to be, but use silver if you can.

Very good. Best of luck.

All 501st merch needs LMBO approval as well. But first the DL needs to approve it before taking it to the next level.

Tom needs to approve the idea of EIB and Centurion pins first.

Before anyone thinks otherwise I'll just say that I'm not endorsing anyone in particular. I just picked the first link I saw that had several happy customers. There are of course others that make them, and you should pick the one you feel is right for you and your budget.

Riveting used to make a fantastic neck seal, but he's no longer very active. This one seems to be the most popular current hero neck seal: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/13511-for-sale-anh-hero-neckseal/

So what's the correct information then? Please tell me.