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Thanks. Aside from the smell, I've come to enjoy the process ever so slightly. It's nice when everything comes out smooth. When it does . I am a bit concerned about how thin the main tube is. I think I'm going to use E-6000 to glue on the other parts, just in case it breaks. But I'm thinking I'll leave this at home for troops, and take along my toy one instead. I certainly have printed at least two blasters' worth of material by now!

Score. Nice prep work, my most hateful part of the process. Trying to get orientation right for less print lines as well as trying to keep details can be a little complicated, as well as trying to keep as much strength possible in some areas, all a learning curve and comes with practice

YESSS! I scored the proper TK boots from a friend in my garrison! And, more progress on the E-11. I need to do a bit more painting, form the spring, and glue it all together. Everything fits together so well, it’s quite satisfying! Overall, printing the parts with fine resolution goes a long way towards eliminating print lines, but it took several tries with the proper orientations to strike a compromise between where they showed up, and utter print failure. The stinky bondo continues to work well, and I've gone through an entire can each of filler primer and flat black paint already. Sanding the bare part was from 80 grit to 120 to 220, then after bondo it was 220 or 400, and after filler primer it was 400 or nothing. I think it just takes experience to know when to stop sanding, and when Bondo can take over and get you to the glasslike smoothness you want. It was hard to orient certain parts so as not to have print lines where it mattered. Applying the Bondo here was tricky, because of the debossed text.

Nice work so far. Just watch out for print lines and cracks 3D printed components must have no visible print lines and must be smooth for a realistic appearance. You may also want to distress/weather your red cogs