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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/27/2023 in Posts
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Gael’Phoenix TK15803 Spanish Garrison And the two little jawas are my baby girls [emoji7] Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk2 points
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Boots and gloves from Imperial Boots arrived. I also dug up my neck seal that I purchased a couple of years ago. Got to work on the hand plates. Filled the depression on the underside so the velcro would sit flush. Put the velcro on and voila! The 850 AW shoulder armor was really narrow at the top. I hot water dipped and widened them a bit (where the yellow line is). The picture below is after I widened them. I think I'll be trimming some length eventually but I'll get them fit on the body armor before deciding. The upper arms were too big in their raw form. I had to cut them down quite a bit. I took about 1/4 inch off the top of each piece. I also had to dip and bend them a bit more too. They were not concave enough. I made one mistake when gluing: I intended to glue the fronts and velcro the backs. I checked twice but of course made two left arms! Not the end of the world and I might disassemble one in the future. For now, one will be glued on both sides. In the images, the ones on the left are resized and reshaped, on the right are the original forms. More to come...2 points
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Just a quick note to let you all know that trooperbay is now password protected. The password to get into the site is - scruffynerfherder At this time, I only want people in our community to have access to the site. Please feel free to share the password with other members and new recruits that may need stuff. My reasoning for doing this is simply to limit the google bots and...."general public" from seeing all the sites content. I made trooperbay for US and not the random person doing a search on google. By protecting the site, I hope to keep trooperbay going, and continue servicing our group. If you forget the password you can just go to the site and message me directly by clicking on "chat with us" at the bottom right hand side of the screen. I usually respond right away and will give you the password. Thank you for understanding and thank you for the last 16 years of patronage. -Mike TK/TD-45102 points
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My name is Vinny, I am 35. I was gifted a anovos (stunt) storm trooper kit! I have been putting off building this kit for some time due to the fear of failing at it. At this point all of my pieces are cut out of the sheets with tin snips. All the pieces do need sanding work. I am just looking for some direction or guidance on my next step now that my armor is separated. If there was an armor party in NY/CT I would happily attend. Any direction is appreciated. MTFBWY.1 point
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So I was a newb when I ordered by Hero ensemble for Shepperton Studios. I know better now, but I have a bad habit of doing stupid things so that others don't have to. I've been poking around the forums for a bit and it looks like I've got some decisions to make. The Shepperton Hero helmet offer terrible visibility, even after I replaced the bubble lenses. I'm going to need to a stunt helmet. I'm loathe to give them more of my money, but I also want the colors to match. Obviously the Shepperton has accuracy issues, but it's also very difficult to get around in. I am completely unable to bend my knees, which makes it impossible to interact wit kids. Is this normal, or should I be looking to mod or get into another suit altogether? I've replaced the rubber gloves with fabric ones. Much nicer, but I have a feeling that's not CRL-Kosher, Anyway, since I'm not spoiled for time, I'm trying to decide if I should pass this project along to another fan, and go for an RS Propmasters instead, or do the work, order the replacement pieces to fix it. Thoughts, mocking and I-told-you-so's are welcome.1 point
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If you think it's strong enough then stick with it, it's more a just in case It's not too hard to work with BUT you can't re-bend if you make a mistake as it can break quite easily. Some templates and info for the rail here1 point
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Removing print lines from my props and costume pieces is a cake walk. The aluminum rail part is a whole new thing to me- I currentlyhave zero experience with working with aluminum1 point
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I would advise making an aluminum rail for your scope to sit on, you can knock the blasters when trooping and it may catch and break. And do as much prep work as you can to the printed surfaces to remove any lines, from the CRL: For costumes with both blasters and accessories. 3D printed blasters and any approvable accessories can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.1 point
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Greetings all We have a competition running to design a new forum banner that sits atop of our forums. Some bragging rights for the lucky winner, but see full details in below link.1 point
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Just ordered from there a few minutes ago. ANH Stunt is what I'm going for and had to re-read that CRL again. Sweet, no bubble lenses for me!1 point
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Hello there. I have a RS Props Hero TK and I can confirm that the visability out of the helmet is bad. The mobilitiy is meh as well. I can bend a little at the knees and a little at the waist, but could not crouch to take a picture with a young child. I can do stairs, but I have to walk sideways. Overall very happy with my RS Props TK. If you do order from them, ask them to keep the right thigh ammo strap off and that you will do it yourself. Trust me, you will take me later1 point
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Thanks again for your input. I'm gathering up information on provenance side, and will report back ASAP. As for the costume itself, the vendor is quite clear in stating that the helmet is NOT a production used one, nor is the blaster. They were retained by the production crew. BTW, there is a LOT of original production pieces out there in private collections. A lot does get out ;-) I'll keep all posted. Really appreciate everyone's input!1 point
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Well, actually the D-ring is also required for level 2. Also make sure that the t-tracks, and the grip, have no weathering(level 3, "The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure however, T-tracks and grips shall be of a black plastic appearance with no silver/metallic weathering allowed").1 point
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TK-26590 Spanish Garrison Pic with commander and incinerator are all women’s so Commander is TK-14102 Incinerator is TK-15803 Mudtrooper is TX-611791 point
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Just my $0.02 as someone who is still building the new DN kit. TL;DR is: I like the accuracy and it should be recognized, but I am not going to get upset if we allow it. I'm in the middle of building the DN kit now and have yet to get to joining that seam with ABS slurry, sanding, etc. While it would appear easier to allow for a seam, I planned on joining and reinforcing the shoulder anyway to make it seamless and more accurate. As well, there would still be a bit of work to do to attach 2 pieces at the proposed shoulder seam. I have worked with fixing or modifying armor in my TIE, and with my Kylo helmet mod. Speaking of Kylo, the Galaxy's Edge Kylo Ren looks like a bobble head and the Kylo community often make fun of GE Kylo. We understand that it's most likely to accomodate electronics and other practical factors, but I (and many fellow Kylos) would rather be caught dead than look like that dude, from the neck up. The point is, not all of the Disney Parks characters are the standard to look up to and accept. I'd still support removing obstacles for new members to join the Legion. Would we advise them to join but not to do the FOTK at first without help? If FOTK is their absolute favorite perhaps it would not be too much to ask to make it accurate at the shoulder/sides? All that said, I'm not going to get upset if he allow the seam. To the public we will all look awesome, almost no one will notice the seam, and we may have a greater number FOTKs in the club. Also, if we do that we should also grandfather-in all seamless FOTKs into higher levels of certification. Thank you.1 point
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I've got about 5mm of flattish viewing space in my Hero bubble lenses so I'm not surprised they had so many vision issues1 point
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Time to tackle the belt build. Started by printing the belt box template sheet. CAUTION: Even though the template is 1:1, the boxes printed on the sheet are too small, and some of the center holes are not centered. You can see the pencil lines I drew on the template: Next I put the belt on the torso, with the spine and butt plate attached, in order to size the belt. It’s way too big for me: So I marked the proper size and started to unstitch the Velcro and strapping from the back of the rubber. Then I used some clips to mock-up the size. The top piece is the rubber belt, the bottom piece is the Velcro: Then I cut the Velcro and strapping and then used some E6000 the reattach the strapping at the proper sizing: Then I cut the rubber to the end of the male clip. This shows how much I cut off of each: Then glued a short piece over the female clip: Then using the templates I marked the holes and used my leather hole punch to make the holes: This is assembled, but I haven’t painted these resin boxes yet: On the armor: Bought a replacement for the large pouch from Trooperbay today, since the DN large pouch is too small for the ABS front panel. Someone in my garrison mentioned that he couldn’t move his head in the armor with the helmet on, so I did a test: Looks like I’ll be good.1 point
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Those who have bought a scope from Brian @Bulldog44 will understand. Just... wow. What a package.1 point