3D-printed DLT-19 with some modifications

[T-Jay[TK]]

Hello there 

 

Last summer I bought a kit for a DLT-19 blaster from @Freduster who didn‘t find the time to build it. It was 3D-printed by @Rasagal, using a free online file. 

While doing some research on the original MG-34 I found many details to be wrong or completely off. Seemed like it was not the most accurate file out there, so I tried to make the best of it. 

A build thread was not planned so I did not take photos right from the start, but captured some progress later to retrospectively do one now. 

 

The front barrel made me worry because cooling holes and T-tracks had the wrong amount and wrong layout.

Additionally there were flat areas for gluing the T-tracks, also in the wrong positions. So I decided to rebuild the barrel from scratch and buy accurate T-tracks.






 

[T-Jay[TK]]

Update #01        - Smooth surfaces

The problem with 3D prints is to get rid of the print lines. Sanding is most common but blasters have too many small areas where it is hard to get to.
So I searched for a method to smoothen the surface by adding something to it. 
 

I was recommended to try an acrylic bush-on modeling paste. Bought it, tried it but had to sand the brush strokes. Therefore not suitable.
 

Then I came across XTC-3D. A two-component epoxy resin (ratio 2:1) to brush on with interesting results in many Youtube videos.

Instead of this I bought the simplest two-component epoxy resin I could find. It was transparent, cheaper and easier to mix (ratio 1:1). Result: worked good, multiple thin layers recommended, no sanding required. 

To then remove the last rest of any print lines, I applied some coats of spray primer.
And to add structure, I used spray paint with hammered finish…




It took several layers of primer and hammered paint to make all parts look like in the next photo.
Then I finally added the matte black to everything but was so busy, I forgot to take pictures. 

[T-Jay[TK]]

Update #02       - Weathering and detailed photos

 

Weathering was done like on my other blasters: Humbrol 27004 polish paint, then some silver dry-brush effects, dust weathering and real rust in selected spots. The blaster‘s back end was initially planned to be gloss back, but I simply did not find a way to weather a believable bakelite appearance. So I decided to go for a wooden appearance and covered most of the black paint with acrylic brown paint (brushed) and sealed everything under matte clear coat. And here is how it looks:







Metal pipes inside have a snug fit and support the blaster over the full length. No bending or so.
The handle can be stored inside the magazine cover and everything fits into the improvised transport box. 




Build facts:
Total build time (including research and ordering stuff) lasted over half a year.
Total build costs (including kit, new T-tracks, accessories and paint) is about 250 Euros.
Total weight is only 1,4 kg (a full resin E-11 is around 1,1 - 1,2 kg)

Is it complete now? Yes, I don‘t have plans for any additions like electronics or so.

Is it perfect? No, by far not. It‘s just what I was able to get out of this individual kit.

Would I do it again? Considering the effort to clean all print lines, I would say no.

On the other hand, now knowing how to treat a 3D print would speed up work... 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Your updates are looking great. I do like seeing the bakelite stock   Nice work you have to be happy with the finished product.

 

For anyone following, bakelite references 

[dblcross[TK]]

13 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Update #01        - Smooth surfaces

The problem with 3D prints is to get rid of the print lines. Sanding is most common but blasters have too many small areas where it is hard to get to.
So I searched for a method to smoothen the surface by adding something to it. 
 

I was recommended to try an acrylic bush-on modeling paste. Bought it, tried it but had to sand the brush strokes. Therefore not suitable.
 

Then I came across XTC-3D. A two-component epoxy resin (ratio 2:1) to brush on with interesting results in many Youtube videos.

Instead of this I bought the simplest two-component epoxy resin I could find. It was transparent, cheaper and easier to mix (ratio 1:1). Result: worked good, multiple thin layers recommended, no sanding required. 

To then remove the last rest of any print lines, I applied some coats of spray primer.
And to add structure, I used spray paint with hammered finish…




It took several layers of primer and hammered paint to make all parts look like in the next photo.
Then I finally added the matte black to everything but was so busy, I forgot to take pictures. 

XTC30 Is a great product for this. Make sure you apply small coats cause the curing time is quick. Here is my stock that I painted and use weathering to get that Bakelite finish. The paints I used was gloss black and dark walnut.

I also put a speaker in the stock for blaster effects.

This is before I applied the dry brush black,

Just be careful. With all of the using it as a prop, you  will wear the paint off of the bottom of the stock and  have to repaint it.