Themaninthesuitcase Denuo Novo TLJ Build

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Let's try this again.  Trying to 3D print a suit didn't work out so I made use of the May 4th sale this year and got a DN kit.

 

 

Helmet: Denuo Novo TLJ Standard Helmet

Armour: Denuo Novo TLJ

Neck Seal: Denuo Novo

Gloves: Imperial Boots

Boots: Imperial Boots 

 

The fact I have IB boots and gloves, shows how long I have had them as they rebranded and then stopped selling the gloves!

 

I picked the standard helmet over the premier, partly due to cost but also to save the weight one my neck. I know the premier is slightly ,more accurate but I also want to be able to wear it all day.

 

I still have some decisions to make. I am definitely aiming for EIB, but centurion means a rubber gaskets so that will need to be looked into.

 

Glory to the First Order!

 

 

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

The DN TD is a pretty hefty lump of resin so I am going to use the Jessie M replacement printed on my nice new Bambu P1S.

 

I did try print the outer initially but the white eSun PETG doesn't want to play nice with the new printer and so the support failed.  

 

However the black eSun PETG prints wonderfully, so I made a start on the tube. I initially went for strength as this needs to troop and so will get knocked.  4 perimeters, 15% cubic, and I completely forgot to check the estimated weight.  260g  Whilst I am sure this would be less when finished compared to the resin cast it was a bit on the heavy side.

 

So I reprinted it at 2 perimeters, 5% "cubic support" which came out at 87g, 66% saved!  Cubic support is a clever pattern that uses no infill initially and then slowly builds to the stated percentage. This left the part almost hollow.  It seems up to the job, I should have added an extra bottom layer or two as the default was 3 which flexed a lot. Though when glued you get 1.2mm which is probably fine.  Worst case it breaks and I can make a new one somewhere in the middle.

 

 

My printer wasn't tall enough to do the 1 shot part, so I needed to glue the 2 sections together.  The model has a small hole in each end, which is perfect for a short section of 1.75mm filament. 

 

 

Once a short section was glued into 1 side I then used some thick CA to join them forever. As mentioned there was some flex to the mating faces so I used a reasonable amount of thick CA and spun it to spread it over as much surface as possible. This should give a nice solid join, though I want to try source some water thin to try wick in the edges just in case.

 

The end result is a perfectly aligned tube, I even aligned the seam.

 

 

I'll get some new white soon and print the holder. Then I need to source a close white paint match.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking forward to seeing your progress

 

One of us, one of us

[Sly11[Admin]]

Great start Chris.

I understand why they probably went with a resin TD as the original TFA TD's were solid resin and the weight substantial at almost 1.5kg

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Finally opened it all up and took inventory. The pulls all seem reasonable, few marks in places that hopefully won't cause too many issues, though the back triangles need a little work. The trim lines on the shoulders are borderline invisible, which will be fun to deal with.

 

Biggest worry remains the proper trim line on the forearms, but others have managed so I am sure I can too.

 

Guess I need to start cutting bits out, I have set my self a goal of being done by November and that's only going to happen if I actually start.

 

What's the glue of choice on these builds? Still E6000?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

1 hour ago, themaninthesuitcase said:

Still E6000?

Depends on the area, I used E6000 on areas that would need some give, like the shins and forearms and JB weld for a more solid join yoke, abdomen, biceps etc. JB weld can be sanded too which is handing if you've applied too much or used to fill gaps before ABS slurry (or filler paint for some)