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Butt and kidney plate joining edge issues.


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I am attempting a centurion level build for my first tk. The kit from Walt’s had the butt and kidney plates joined in one vacu-form piece. That level requires that they be separated. So in cutting them apart I just barely have any return edge to drill and screw into for the wire joiners. Is that going to be an issue if I move those holes into the corner? Is there a better or more successful path to success here? 
 

If this is the wrong thread to post this question let me know and I’ll move it. I’m new here and learning  qG4bhAd.jpg8UelMdZ.jpg

Edited by Kagamaru
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You could simply omit the wire bracket set up for the kidney to butt connection and use snaps and elastic. it will save you any grief you might have with the brackets cracking out of the plates in that area.

Generally the join is also concealed by the belt when you are kitted up so no one would ever know.

Strapping isn't part of the CRL either although the DO's just like to see how your armour is held together as it allows them some insight in the event you needed to make any adjustments for fitting.

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A good reference for strapping of backplate and posterior.

CrdSoQr.jpg?1

 

And great how to for snaps

 

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24 minutes ago, Sly11 said:

You could simply omit the wire bracket set up for the kidney to butt connection and use snaps and elastic. it will save you any grief you might have with the brackets cracking out of the plates in that area.

Generally the join is also concealed by the belt when you are kitted up so no one would ever know.

Strapping isn't part of the CRL either although the DO's just like to see how your armour is held together as it allows them some insight in the event you needed to make any adjustments for fitting.

So you don’t have to do the og brackets to qualify for centurion? I’d much rather do this strap method!

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4 minutes ago, Kagamaru said:

So you don’t have to do the og brackets to qualify for centurion? I’d much rather do this strap method!

NO brackets are not a requirement for Centurion

 

300px-TK_anh_stunt_kidney.jpeg Kidney Armor
  • A separate kidney plate is present, split from the posterior armor.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top
  • Cut-out notches at the bottom of right and left sides of the Kidney Armor are optional.
    • If present, each notch is approximately 22 mm tall and the back of the notch ideally is aligned with the front edges of the Posterior Armor plate..
  • Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the kidney plate.
    • Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.
    • Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge.
    • The heads are rounded or domed. Note: Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head.
    • Rivets are painted white.

 

 

 

 

300px-TK_anh_stunt_butt.jpeg Posterior Armor
  • A separate rear armor piece is split from the Kidney Armor

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Two male snaps are present on the lower center tab of the Posterior Armor.
    • Snaps do not need to be functional.
    • Snaps are silver in color with the bottom of the snap facing outward and are not painted.
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