MintImperial’s Newbie WTF TK Build

[MintImperial[TK]]

On 11/25/2021 at 9:10 PM, justjoseph63 said:

 

Thank you, Joseph.

 

Will post pics on the belt when I get a chance.

 

Work is keeping me super busy at the moment.

[MintImperial[TK]]

On 11/26/2021 at 4:50 AM, gmrhodes13 said:

Should be able to just touch up those areas of paint.

 

Just make sure when you have it on your belt that you can see the O detail, many miss then when assembling  

 

References below

 

     

Thank you. My TD does not look like that.

 

The O is very much on the top.

 

Not sure if it’s a function of the plate and tube (WTF) or the brackets (ukswrath).

 

But, no matter how I try to position it, the plate always sits with the O very close to the brackets.

 

Diameter of the pipe is 60mm (2.36 inches).

 

 

 

 

[MintImperial[TK]]

I trimmed the plate to the apparent cut lines on the part.

 

I suppose I could trim something off the bottom of the plate next closest to the screws

 

so that the whole plate is rotated outward (downward?).

 

That would get the ribbed part to sit lower and the O to face outward instead of on top.

 

But I worry that the dimensions of the plate (around the circumference) would then be too short.

 

Currently it’s 90mm along the left and right edges.

[MintImperial[TK]]

Update on my magnet closures to keep the ab & kidney plates from slipping up and down:

 

 

Once I’d got the positions right, the black ABS tabs were too straight:

 

 

So I got them super rubbery with a heating iron and pressed them into shape against the plates.

Then glued them into place with E6000:

 

 

They hold everything in place really well, though I’ll still use the straps for security.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 1, 2021 by MintImperial

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

4 hours ago, MintImperial said:

Thank you. My TD does not look like that.

 

The O is very much on the top.

 

Not sure if it’s a function of the plate and tube (WTF) or the brackets (ukswrath).

 

But, no matter how I try to position it, the plate always sits with the O very close to the brackets.

 

Diameter of the pipe is 60mm (2.36 inches).

 

 

 

 

Shortening the brackets will allow the plate to come around

 

This info is from @justjoseph63in an EIB application:

 

As seen in the reference images below, the plate on your TD needs to come down in the back.  The ribbed area should face toward the rear, with the O ring on or near the top.

                                                                                                       Reference images

                  

 

Doing this is actually easier than you think, should take all of 10-15 minutes, and this is what I would suggest:

 

1.  Remove the clips and trim off the ends (as shown) with a hacksaw.

2.  Rotate the plate to where the ends meet the bottom of the plate (like you have it now).

3.  Drill new holes as shown.  You will have to drill new holes for the other screws as well.

4.  Re-attach the screws.

DONE!

 

 

[MintImperial[TK]]

7 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Shortening the brackets will allow the plate to come around

 

This info is from @justjoseph63in an EIB application:

 

As seen in the reference images below, the plate on your TD needs to come down in the back.  The ribbed area should face toward the rear, with the O ring on or near the top.

                                                                                                       Reference images

                  

 

Doing this is actually easier than you think, should take all of 10-15 minutes, and this is what I would suggest:

 

1.  Remove the clips and trim off the ends (as shown) with a hacksaw.

2.  Rotate the plate to where the ends meet the bottom of the plate (like you have it now).

3.  Drill new holes as shown.  You will have to drill new holes for the other screws as well.

4.  Re-attach the screws.

DONE!

 

 

 

Thank you. I appreciate Joseph’s comment that it’s easier than you think.

 

Looking at the images alone filled with dread.

 

I guess I can saw through the ends, but the drill bits I have on my Dremel won’t be big enough for those holes.

 

I’m loathed to go out and buy a power drill just for that and there’s really no one I can borrow from here in Hong Kong.

 

Would it be possible to get basic approval with the TD as it look snow, then alter later for higher levels when I have the chance?

 

I’m getting to the point where lots of little things are going to bar me from the higher ranks (mostly due to lack of DIY skills and no space for a workshop).

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

1 hour ago, MintImperial said:

Would it be possible to get basic approval with the TD as it look snow, then alter later for higher levels when I have the chance?

I would think you would be OK for basic approval but that's entirely up to your GML.

 

Armor workshops are great for situations like this were you don't have all the tools required, but covid put a stop to a lot of those.

 

You could always reach out to your Garrison and see if anyone local could lend a hand.

[MintImperial[TK]]

I would think you would be OK for basic approval but that's entirely up to your GML.
 
Armor workshops are great for situations like this were you don't have all the tools required, but covid put a stop to a lot of those.
 
You could always reach out to your Garrison and see if anyone local could lend a hand.

Thanks, as always, for the advice.
Obviously, I don’t want to settle for basic and plan to aim higher.
But I’m also very keen to get into the club first!


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[MintImperial[TK]]

Looking to push this over the line.
At least for basic approval first.

I want to reshape one of my shins a little.
When we talk about a hot water bath, are we talking boiling? Near boiling?


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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

8 hours ago, MintImperial said:

Looking to push this over the line.
At least for basic approval first.

I want to reshape one of my shins a little.
When we talk about a hot water bath, are we talking boiling? Near boiling?


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Hi, in most cases I have seen here, it's boiling water for a few minutes.  

 

 

[MintImperial[TK]]

 
Hi, in most cases I have seen here, it's boiling water for a few minutes.  
 
 

Thank you very much.


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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

What I would do is to make a test with a separate ABS plastic piece.

 

Another method "the ninja style" is to use a Heat Gun , but this means to be very very careful to avoid melt. 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Hot water bath is definitely more forgiving than a heat gun, a lot of practice is needed using a heat gun, you can go from almost moving to molten mess in a blink of an eye  

[MintImperial[TK]]

Yes I’d need bigger cajones than I could fit behind my codpiece to try the heat gun method!

I’ve had pretty good success with a heat iron but I’m not sure it will work well on such a large area all at one time. Hot water seems like the way to go.


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[MintImperial[TK]]

 A question about thighs, if I may:

 

Do I trim the rear cover strips at this line?

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

25 minutes ago, MintImperial said:

 A question about thighs, if I may:

 

Do I trim the rear cover strips at this line?

 

Yes , 

References 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Also take note on Mario's references the coverstrip are aligned straight (vertically) in the middle of the thighs and not angled  

[MintImperial[TK]]

On 6/4/2021 at 2:50 AM, MintImperial said:

To start off, here’s the E-11 from Kassaraptor that I’m working on on the side.

As I get closer to finishing my build, I’ve recently revisited my E-11.

Still not finished painting it yet

and I will be installing light and sound with TRamp’s BlastFX

but I finally feel that it’s well on the way.

[MintImperial[TK]]

On 9/20/2021 at 2:07 PM, MintImperial said:

]I accidentally painted my helmet at the weekend.

 

What I mean is, I hadn’t really psyched myself up for it and didn’t prep properly.

Was just toying with the idea of doing it. Next thing I know I’d painted the frown and so I just kept on going.

Still haven’t painted the tube stripes or the ear screws yet.

And I have a LOT of cleanup to do on the black pinstripe outlines on the tears, traps, etc., plus some other touch ups.

I also inadvertently pressed the vocoder up against my t-shirt while it was still wet, so I now have a great print on my shirt and a furry-looking underside on by bucket, which I will have to totally redo.

 

 

 

 

Hideously wonky lines that are way too thick. I may totally redo this using masking tape.

Have already started cleaning up some spills through the mask template, using a toothpick dipped in rubbing alcohol.

 

 

Hello. Been trying to get back to this build for so long and hopefully I’ll finally have som e more time.

But I’d like to know if my super thick black lines around the tears and traps would be approvable for lower levels while I work on other details to (hopefully) get me to Centurion.

 

Thanks as always for the advice.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

8 hours ago, MintImperial said:

Hello. Been trying to get back to this build for so long and hopefully I’ll finally have som e more time.

But I’d like to know if my super thick black lines around the tears and traps would be approvable for lower levels while I work on other details to (hopefully) get me to Centurion.

 

Thanks as always for the advice.

I would check with your GML (garrison membership liaison) they look after base legion level approval, FISD only deal with L2 and L3 applications.

 

For me they are a tad thick in some places. Could also cleanup/straighten lines around the ears. In saying that as a GML I would pass as is.

 

 

[MintImperial[TK]]

Thank you Glen. I will check.

[MintImperial[TK]]

On 12/2/2021 at 4:19 AM, gmrhodes13 said:

Shortening the brackets will allow the plate to come around

 

This info is from @justjoseph63in an EIB application:

 

As seen in the reference images below, the plate on your TD needs to come down in the back.  The ribbed area should face toward the rear, with the O ring on or near the top.

                                                                                                       Reference images

                  

 

Doing this is actually easier than you think, should take all of 10-15 minutes, and this is what I would suggest:

 

1.  Remove the clips and trim off the ends (as shown) with a hacksaw.

2.  Rotate the plate to where the ends meet the bottom of the plate (like you have it now).

3.  Drill new holes as shown.  You will have to drill new holes for the other screws as well.

4.  Re-attach the screws.

DONE!

 

 

There was no way I could ever reshape UKSwrath’s amazing but meaty metal clips by myself.
So, in the end, I caved and bought a whole new TD from Troopermaster.

It’s O ring is clearly visible from the rear.
And the clips are much thinner, so should be easy to bend and tweak if I need to.
Only issue is that the ABS is very yellow compared to the rest of my armour,

so I’ve already bought some Armorwhite to see if I can bring it closer.

 

Photo reference shows O ring position, clips and colour vs the one that came with (and matches) my armour:

Edited February 3, 2023 by MintImperial

[MintImperial[TK]]

More side-by-side comparisons:

New TD is on top.
This shows view from rear.

 

Sheen on grey pipe is better on new TD, shown right:

[MintImperial[TK]]

Just a quick recap on my E-11 from Kassaraptor.

I had originally planned to install TRamp’s amazing BlastFX in it but I’ve somehow managed to short it somewhere while doing some soldering, so I’ll have to send it back to Paul to get fixed.
In the meantime I’ve ripped the light & sound guts out of a Disney Parks Stormtrooper Blaster that I got from Tokyo Disneyland and have installed those parts instead.

It’s still a work in progress.

 

 

[MintImperial[TK]]

With Disney lights & sounds:

https://live.staticflickr.com/video/52671110644/a1fa3d1f69/orig.mov

 

https://live.staticflickr.com/video/52671110644/a1fa3d1f69/orig.mov?s=eyJpIjo1MjY3MTExMDY0NCwiZSI6MTY3NTYyNTgxNCwicyI6ImQxODYxY2M0NTU2ZDg2NzFkYWUwNWZjODJjM2NjYThjNWEyOGUwYmMiLCJ2IjoxfQ