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silverBoyd

silverBoyd's FO Executioner Build

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So...I have been asked by someone to assemble and paint their new TLJ armor kit to become a FO Executioner.  I have built a variety of other kits but anything from the First Order is brand new to me.  I have really only worked with ABS plastic kits and various resin helmets.  Upon receiving this kit yesterday from the owner, it appears to be a "Jimmi" set of armor (not sure which version this is).  It's got amazing detail but the way it's made seems to be some sort of fiberglass that flexes.  Really awesome stuff.  Looks like a great kit.

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I'm not sure where the gaskets came from but they were in the box when I received the kit.  I'm not sure which vendor made them. 

 

I have been studying a few builds and have learned that some people get a few Executioner pieces to upgrade their kits.  One piece in question is the yolk.  In looking at the CRL images and looking at the yolk that came with this kit, is it possible for me to cut the yolk as needed or with the yolk armor I have on hand, will it work since the pieces in the center will not be seen anyhow. 

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I'm thinking since you won't see the part hidden under the chest armor, why would I need to cut it?  Just curious if I need to mod this part of the armor.

 

This armor kit seems as though there is not much modifying to do.  As I said before, I'm very familiar with many OT armor and Clonetroopers and how it all assembles but this type of material is new to me.  The few "TLJ / Executioner" build threads on here don't have many progress photos so it's hard to see exactly what some folks are doing.  Any advice would help....thanks.  I guess for now I'll have to browse other FOTK builds on the other forum threads.

 

Also, for those with a "Jimmi" kit...how are you fastening everything together?  Heavy duty snaps? Velcro? Magnets?

Edited by silverBoyd
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Wow, that is nice! Jimmi's kits have come a long way since the v1 back in the months prior to TFA.

 

I would leave it exactly as is. That full underchest is screen accurate, and to my knowledge the Jimmi kit is the only kit that has it. What you are looking at in the CRL photo is an Anovos or a KB yoke, which is cut that way because unlike the screen-used suits (which were made of a proprietary material) the ABS used in most kits doesn't flex enough to allow the user to get it on and off. With Jimmi's flexible fiberglass, it's a whole new ball game.

 

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22 hours ago, tkrestonva said:

Wow, that is nice! Jimmi's kits have come a long way since the v1 back in the months prior to TFA.

 

I would leave it exactly as is. That full underchest is screen accurate, and to my knowledge the Jimmi kit is the only kit that has it. What you are looking at in the CRL photo is an Anovos or a KB yoke, which is cut that way because unlike the screen-used suits (which were made of a proprietary material) the ABS used in most kits doesn't flex enough to allow the user to get it on and off. With Jimmi's flexible fiberglass, it's a whole new ball game.

 

thanks...I plan to keep the chest as one piece.  The chest place to yolk connection.  I'm seen some use velcro....some use magnets...some use snaps.  What's the best way for this type of material? 

 

Hoping to make some progress on the cutting of the eyes and the side vents on the helmet this afternoon.

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Based on the upgraded yoke-piece, that's a V5 Jim kit which is the newest. The gaskets are also from him.

 

There are many ways of fastening stuff and no real "this is the best way", magnets, velcro, snaps, it all works. Also people are getting new pieces for the executioner so they can switch out pieces and have an Executioner and a regular TLJ TK (think ANH Hero and ANH Stunt). Chest to yoke can be tricky, I opted for nylon webbing running across the 2 "wings", with additional snaps in the middle to secure the chest (see my profile pic lol). Along with elastic+velcro closure on sides (although screen accurate would be to overlap both pieces and use just velcro).

 

Yoke is screen-accurate, as you can see here (albeit a screen-used TFA kit, I see no reason why TLJ should be different):

 

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But should be no problem to cut it like you outlined if you so wish, would lose a bit of accuracy but gain easier access when kitting up.

 

I'd recommend reading up on Jim TFA TK threads as there's a lot of them and the parts are 95% the same :) 

Edited by Ensi

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You shouldn’t need to cut the yoke into two pieces. Just paint the arch portions matte black and you are well on your way. 

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