silverBoyd

thanks...I plan to keep the chest as one piece. The chest place to yolk connection. I'm seen some use velcro....some use magnets...some use snaps. What's the best way for this type of material? Hoping to make some progress on the cutting of the eyes and the side vents on the helmet this afternoon.

So...I have been asked by someone to assemble and paint their new TLJ armor kit to become a FO Executioner. I have built a variety of other kits but anything from the First Order is brand new to me. I have really only worked with ABS plastic kits and various resin helmets. Upon receiving this kit yesterday from the owner, it appears to be a "Jimmi" set of armor (not sure which version this is). It's got amazing detail but the way it's made seems to be some sort of fiberglass that flexes. Really awesome stuff. Looks like a great kit. I'm not sure where the gaskets came from but they were in the box when I received the kit. I'm not sure which vendor made them. I have been studying a few builds and have learned that some people get a few Executioner pieces to upgrade their kits. One piece in question is the yolk. In looking at the CRL images and looking at the yolk that came with this kit, is it possible for me to cut the yolk as needed or with the yolk armor I have on hand, will it work since the pieces in the center will not be seen anyhow. I'm thinking since you won't see the part hidden under the chest armor, why would I need to cut it? Just curious if I need to mod this part of the armor. This armor kit seems as though there is not much modifying to do. As I said before, I'm very familiar with many OT armor and Clonetroopers and how it all assembles but this type of material is new to me. The few "TLJ / Executioner" build threads on here don't have many progress photos so it's hard to see exactly what some folks are doing. Any advice would help....thanks. I guess for now I'll have to browse other FOTK builds on the other forum threads. Also, for those with a "Jimmi" kit...how are you fastening everything together? Heavy duty snaps? Velcro? Magnets?

got my ear caps looking better and thinner on both sides now.

Working on ears. Going slow but I think they are still a touch too thick. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Panda....I took out more "real estate" in those areas and it definitely helped to pull things down to line up better. I think I can still take just a few mm on the right side and then I think i'll be good to finally assemble and drill a few holes

THANKS PANDATROOPER I'll try taking out a bit more on those "S" curves. It's getting there though. Better than where it was yesterday. I'm feeling better about it

thanks for the tips everyone. I've been fretting over this piece. This ATA is so different from other TKs I've assembled. As far as the sides are acting. I spent 2 hours fine tuning and making small trims and here is where I am at. I don't think I can trim anymore. If I do, I won't have anything to grab onto when screwing the (2) halves together. The "tubes" are lining up much better now on the sides

I've really not taken much away at all as far as trimming. The helmet is held together with clamps and even before I trimmed the rear cap wasn't lining up with faceplate as far as the sides and bottom are concerned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup. Trimmed bottom, brow & sides. It's just not looking right. I'm nervous to fasten it together Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've built a few helmets: MTK TK helmet, Tusken, Royal Guard, etc... I'm to the point where I am almost ready to fit the 2 halves together. I have trimmed and although I know some trimming (around head opening) is still needed, I can't seem to see how it will fit together properly during a test fit. I'm stressing over this helmet...something isn't right with this rear cap. It's not shape right. I know the ear caps cover it up but it's the bottom near the opening (on both sides) & the way it looks like there will be a gap left out that won't have anything for the black finishing trim to grab onto.... It's just a weird shape to the cap back. The sides are making me bonkers. The way they are it seems even after I put on ear caps it still won't look right. The rear cap is lined up and centered on the faceplate via clamps so why are the sides giving me such a fit? Could it be a bad vac-form pull? Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The DLT-19...a blaster I've always wanted. Since it will be awhile since I can afford to do another full costume / armor, I figured I could build some Star Wars props / weapons. So far I have done a few weapons from the Star Wars universe: E-11 Hasbro modification (Hasbro mod's + Doopydoo's add-on kit....that I really like), Gaffi stick (from scratch), T-21 Heavy Repeating Blaster, a DL-44 Rubies (w/ slight mods and new paint job for my dad's TIE Pilot) and now a DLT-19 as a 3rd weapon for my Sandtrooper. This is a work-in-progress so I'll add pics and "how-to" as I go on. First, I started with a rough copy of the "Wizard of Flight" plans. From there I brought it into AutoCAD, re-scaled and sketched a new design. Slightly simpler but with detail. I also sketched new template for the barrel holes as well as custom sketches for detail greeblies and parts. The proper width of the blaster can be achieved my utilizing (3) sections of 3/4" board glued and screwed together. I chose white pine. It's lightweight and also not too expensive. I transferred my custom templates, used my jigsaw and glued the together. I decided to attach the grip / trigger separately for various personal reasons. If you look closely at the above picture, you will see I made a "groove" in the center piece to "countersink" the grip / trigger. Once the wood glue set overnight, I sanded for about 2 hours to give the overall main body a nice finish and to round out and square off any uneven planes or edges. (2) 2" wood screws were sunk to make sure it was held together firmly. The screw holes and gaps were hit with some wood putty and sanded smooth. Turned out very smooth. I'm very pleased. For some of my top and side greeblies, I'm using 1.5mm styrene (0.059" thick) (purchased @ local HobbytownUSA). I like the styrene because it's very thin and also gives great detail once the blaster is painted, finished and weathered. I also will use some Sintra (PVC board) that I have laying around for some of the barrel greeblies. The Sintra that I have is around 1/8" thickness. (Attack of the Clamps) Next, I began studying pics of the DLT-19. Upon looking at numerous angles I decided I want to "sculpt" the "big details" into the main body to get it as close to representing a scaled model of it. I'm going for detail but not going for 100% accurate. That would be very hard without have an actual cast or vac-formed blaster. Here's the start of the body carving loosely based on the screen-used DLT-19. Got a little more work done on the barrel. I am using 1" diameter (Schedule 40) PVC pipe for the main barrel and a small (4 1/2" length) 1 1/4" diameter (Schedule 40) PVC Pipe for the part of the barrel coming from the main body. I have "test fitted" these PVC pipes together via AutoCAD by being able to draw them in their actual nominal diameters which allowed me to check out how they all fit together due to their actual diameters and wall thicknesses. Should be nice when all said and done. I also spent 15-20 minutes redesigning the "barrel hole" templates. Once i got the correct lengths cut out of the pipes, I taped the templates on and they fit very nicely. Just about perfect if I do say so. I start the holes by drilling out pilot holes with a 1/8" diameter drill bit. Lots holes. Pretty boring. Next I will go back and drill those 1/8" holes with a 3/8" diameter bit to give them their final sizes. I also began work on one of the PVC connectors that will be finished to resemble the barrel tip that has the flash hider on it. I see the DLT-19 has some sort of grooves. So...back to AutoCAD I went and designed a template for that based on measurements I took from the "Wizard of Flight" sketches. I used a small jewelers file to get them "carved" into the PVC connector. I haven't started on this part yet, but I went to Walmart and picked up a $3.50 funnel. I went with the super tall and skinny type because it will give me a better shape for making the flash hider that goes on the tip of the barrel. Spent an hour after work working on this thing. Having so much fun building it. It's really taking shape. Today I finally drilled out the 3/8" barrel holes and also did lots more sanding to the "stock" as well as sanded down more wood putty to cover up numerous dings and knocks in the wood body. Very nice and smooth. I also rounded a few edges that are rounded on the actual blaster. It's really starting to take shape. (**NOTE** In the picture...the hole for the barrel doesn't look centered...but it is. It appears off-centered because part of that one side is carved away so it gives the appears of being off-center) Barrel's freshly drilled out..PVC connector pieces added just to give myself an early look at what it looks like. Templates I made are still attached. (Barrel not attached...just lying against the main body. I like the early incarnation of it. Beginning to work on scratch-made stationary bi-pod this week) Started out as a busy work week for me (plus the wife being out of town so I had the kids alone for a few days). Finally had an hour after work tonight to get a greeblie made for the barrel. I scaled this piece from scratch via AutoCAD and transferred the template to 1/8" thick Sintra (PVC board). With my Dremel, a sanding wheel and a few various drill bit sizes, I was able to create this and test fit it to the middle of the barrel. It has a great fit. Here are some pics of the greeblie and the test fitting. spent 2 1/2 hours making more progress on the barrel...check it out I am attaching a piece of 3/4" (schedule 40) PVC pipe into the main body and it sticks out enough for the 1" PVC (main barrel) to accept it via 3" or so. In order to make the 3/4" and 1" (schedule 40) pipes to connect, I had to use my Dremel and a sanding wheel to decrease the thickness of the outer diameter until it fit. It's not pretty but it's secure and will be even more secure once I apply some Medium ABS Cement. That stuff is used when fitting PVC together. It welds (melts) the PVC to each other. Awesome stuff. Once the 3/4" PVC was installed into main body of DLT-19, I added (2) screw thru the bottom of the main body to secure the piece. (Rough assembly) Next I began the fabrication of my bipod. I'm making mine from scratch. I found a great metal shelf hanger @ Home Depot. http://www.homedepot.com/p/ClosetMaid-12-in-Shelving-Support-Brackets-2-Pack-76606/100143993?N=5yc1vZc89l I will be cutting off the "hooked" tips and hammering the ends out to be able to attach to a small 1" dowel rod piece

Requesting access.... TD-5945 Carolina Garrison

So excited....just received an email telling me that I have now been accepted into the 501st - Carolina Garrison. My new ID # is TD-5945. Can.t believe it has finally happened after over a year of hard work

yeah....for the thighs and forearms I had my wife help me. Those pieces are tough to do by yourself

I had to take off all of the return edge off of the bicep. More at the bottom than at the tops. I also found that using a heating gun or a hair dryer (very carefully) I was able to form the bottoms to be more circular rather than oval. That way when you put them on the proper way you can bend better. Just heat up, squeeze to shape and then place in a bucket or sink full of cold water to help with the cooling of the plastic. Ask any questions about the armor...we're all here to help

Here are some first pics of me fully suited up in my AM armor and MTK helmet....still need a few tweaks but overall I think I'm done and satisfied with it. I still need to add my shoulder ammo pouch, attach my mortar tube / radar dish to the backpack, add some foam inside my left shin to keep it from rotating when I move and also I need to attach some sort of velcro / elastic to help keep the chest pulled down over the top of my torso armor.

Hey....I'm about 3 straps away from being 100% done with my assembly. No pics of me wearing it but here are some more weathered pics as well as the wiring of the helmet fans I just spent an hour on... Here's a picture of my armor (roughly) laid upon the floor to check for weathering consistency....I think it's pretty good

Thanks! I think a TD is the way to go. It just has so much more detail and depth. If you do you'll still have to get a backpack, pauldron, get rid of Ab buttons, get rid of ribbed plastic shoulder straps and change the sniper plate on the knee

if they are 1/8" rivets....take an 1/8" drill bit and a power drill and carefully and (slowly at first) drill out the center of the rivet head. Once you drill into the rivet head a bit it will release itself.

Started weathering my armor...here's a little peek at my shin armor after weathering...

i had trouble with my thighs too...that's why I saved them for last. If you can get them to taper slightly on the bottoms that would look much better on you. As they are now they have that "swinging bell syndrome". I suggest trimming one side in the back straight down and cut the other side with a slight taper. The slight taper will help bring in the bottoms just a bit. But cut off a litte at a time. One thing I can see is the pre-molded "covers strips" in the front of the thighs look funny when they're wider than your actual cover strips that you place on top of them. I assume you used the butt-joint method to assemble the armor? If so, I would take off that cover strip and cut down the front "pre-molded" strips to the same width as your real cover strip. Better to have a wider cover strip and shims in the back rather than a super wide cover strip on the front that looks like it's got 2 ridges. Here is a picture of what mine looked like....similar to yours now. Now after taking off the cover strip and trimming down the thigh fronts it looks more screen accurate Also I see you mentioned using the hook method for the shins? I would just go with the industrial strength Velcro to fasten them closed. It's very simple to do

i am just finishing up my AM build and I own an MTK helmet. It's a great helmet kit

Thanks Isaac...I like the advice about the snaps being held in place by rivets. Didn't think of that. I'm still re-doing my thighs. These things are giving me such a fit. I'm glad I saved them for last. I got my front sized properly with the cover strip but now I'm assembling the rear thighs and I am having to add in a shim to get it to fit now that I've had to trim down the front butt joints. I think my rear thigh cover strips will be a bit wider than normal but I've been told that it'll be find since its the back. Plus...since I'm going Sandy my backpack will distract from people noticing the backs of my thighs. Here are some pics from tonight's fitting along with the shims taped in place... I had to trim off another 1/4" or so from the top of the backs because my butt was allowing it to not be pulled up high enough. I think I need to shorten my suspenders to raise up my torso. I think that will help the front of the thighs from rubbing the crotch of the armor. Here's a side view. I can see in this last pic that I need to somehow get rid of that logo on my undersuit that's reflecting in the light

Although it's not part of my actual armor build...I thought I'd share how I attached the MP40 pouch to my belt. I cut off the angled belt loops, stretched them out and reattached them using a combination of rivets along with extra strength hot glue. Seems like an odd combo but it's very strong and has held on nicely. I wanted to keep things simple. The hot glue reinforcing is sort of messy looking (who's going to see it) but it works And here is the pouch w/ the belt going through the straps on the back. I like the end result Also, anyone have any tips on how to keep the belt attached to the torso? I had a few male snaps through the ab armor to help but one of them has ripped out. I'm thinking of keeping it simple and just using a few strategically placed Velcro to help hold it up. It's pretty light and the Velcro should hold it up. Any thoughts or other ideas? Oh yeah...decided to cut open my thighs to resize the fronts to make it look closer to the screen armor. I'm pleased. Looks much better and I was able to salvage the ABS cover strips I had already cut for the thighs.