imperialbrewer[TK] Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 (edited) So I recently started on my Doopydoos E11 kit with Tino's completion kit and am mildly terrified about this — not that there's any shortage of reference material, but without any authoritative process to follow. So I'm just shadowing some of the other builds here, hoping to get it right. Order of operations is pretty important from what I gather — getting some of these things done in the right order is high on my priority list. Anyway, here's the progress i've made so far. Main Sterling Body and Forward Understock Section — I hollowed out the underside and drilled out the holes on top (note the photo isn't the final photo — just in progress of clearing out the cavity underneath). Main Grip — trigger installed with pen spring and nail holding it in place. I may also go back and put in small metal washers on either side of the trigger for a more smooth action and to give it a little more stability to prevent it from wobbling. I also hollowed out enough of the grip to fit the three-way switch. I'm not putting in electronics in my gun but did like the idea of a physical response from the switch. THIS WAS TERRIFYING hollowing out the grip like this. Main Grip — filled in with Green Stuff and the installation of the stabilization screw: Interior spring coil: Front of body: Magazine screw thingy attached. Had to do a slight repair on the surrounding resin: I hope to make more progress this weekend. It may be slightly unrealistic, but I want to try and get this ready for my first troop in two weeks. Time to buckle down and get things done. Edited February 9, 2018 by imperialbrewer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 Would love to have pictures to accompany your post; pictures aren’t showing up - I found easiest way is to upload using tapatalk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 1 hour ago, imperialbrewer said: but without any authoritative process to follow. Hi Michael, Glad you found your way to Tino’s kit. :-) The “blaster reference” is a great place to get inspiration for your build. Personally, I started off by following this - gave me a place to start and a process to follow. Can’t wait to see some of your pics. As Jesse said, Tapatalk is certainly the easiest way to upload, if that helps. :-) Best wishes, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialbrewer[TK] Posted February 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 I’ll fix the image references later — was having problems with Tap a Talk’s interface getting in the way and unable to see my message after uploading a photo.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK32945 Waynocerous[501st] Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 Good luck with the build Michael. Looking forward to seeing yr progress pictures! I was a bit worried about doing mine but with the Blaster Reference that Dan shared and all the other threads on here there’s plenty of visual references. Also, don’t be afraid to ask questions, the wealth of knowledge and experience on here is phenomenal! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialbrewer[TK] Posted February 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 OK, photo links have been fixed — I had to drop them into a shared directory. Hopefully they're working for you guys now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 Nice job on the selector switch, I wasn't brave enough to try that, will do on my next build tho!Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK32945 Waynocerous[501st] Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 Seconded...The electrical switch for the selector seemed a little too daunting for me! Mine still moves, but doesn’t click....nicely done!.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 (edited) Nice hollowing job for the selector switch install. Great to see! Especially so as I will attempt this next. After the green stuff has cured, you'll be able to form it back to how it looked like originally... .....that goes for the top end of your ejector too. Edited February 9, 2018 by Dracotrooper removed unhelpful content Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialbrewer[TK] Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 Thank you Draco for the reference photo — will tackle that soon. I have moved onto the scope, have successfully hollowed it out, and also spliced off the end pieces. But I have a question about the lenses. I know they are purely for cosmetic purposes, but which way does the lens curvature face? Does the concave face toward or away from the person looking into the scope?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 Nice work on hollowing out your scope ; I also followed the cut lines already in place. Great question about lenses - curious about the answer as I am not at this part of the build yet and would like to know. Q. Are the lenses from your photos from Tino's Completion Set? I don't recall the lenses like that ... or you had taken them out of their housing? Also, the set came with prisms as well from the monocular; will you be looking into how to install these as well? Maybe there isn't a good reason to install these prisms ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialbrewer[TK] Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 Nice work on hollowing out your scope ; I also followed the cut lines already in place. Great question about lenses - curious about the answer as I am not at this part of the build yet and would like to know. Q. Are the lenses from your photos from Tino's Completion Set? I don't recall the lenses like that ... or you had taken them out of their housing? Also, the set came with prisms as well from the monocular; will you be looking into how to install these as well? Maybe there isn't a good reason to install these prisms ... Yeah, these are from Tino’s completion set and I took them out of the housing that they came in. I am assuming that the lenses can be just mounted inside the scope and I was not planning on using the prisms. But maybe they are essential? I don’t know. I always thought and assumed that the lenses inside a scope were purely cosmetic and not functional. Frankly, I wasn’t aiming for a fully functioning scope either. I’m just happy enough to try and shoot for a movie accurate prop that does not have to fulfill hero prop levels of accuracy.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 Yeah, exploring with Prisms is pretty over the top; absolutely not essential. It is nonetheless riveting to be working with three lenses for your scope; that’s exciting! All thanks to Tino - I’m sure he’ll chime in soon regarding the lenses, he’s the guy to hear from Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaneLives85[TK] Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 I mounted the larger lens straight into the scope, housing included, with the reticle attached at the smaller end (you can just about make out the reticle in the second picture). Smaller lens I removed from the housing, and mounted with the curved end facing outwards. I made a bit of a messy job gluing the smaller lens in unfortunately Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 Yep - if you’ve kept any of your housing for the large end, that’s a handy way to mount it - the housing gives you a nice place to attach the reticle lens, too. I’m sure you’ll be able to adapt it if your housing isn’t available. Tino’s builds show his front lens assembly. I believe he hollowed a little lip from the inside for his small lens. (Much better than my own attempt ). FYI - I’ve just gone through your pics - that is some TIDY work. Great start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialbrewer[TK] Posted February 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2018 This evening I got a lot of little tiny things sorted out. Doesn’t feel like I got much done, but the reality is that all these little pieces will come together a lot faster than I think they will. I also did a dry fit of all of the major components onto the main stock and think this is going to come together nicely. I don’t have any ambitions of making a hero level prop, but that’s OK and in-line with my stunt TK armor.I thought about going back to using the scope parts that came with the little kit, but I found a way that I could get things to work. I used the Green stuff to make a lens stopper in the scope, and will hold it in place from the back end with the black ring that came inside the scope kit. I think it’ll work out nicely! And the little lens will just be glued into the front of the scope.I would have got a lot more finished tonight, but have to stop making noises when everyone else decides to go to bed but me. Here are some photos from tonight‘s work.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracotrooper Posted February 11, 2018 Report Share Posted February 11, 2018 Ooh, that’s a mighty fine looking folding stock you got there with the inner rod, nice work, stock cube to show for as well, excellent! I see you also managed to fit in the sight block grub screw; I was unsuccessful in retaining my doopydoos sight block so went with Shapeways purchase. Good improvising on the large lens install; convincing green stuff molding! Also impressed with your cornering of the magazine cap; I see you got the angles just right! Keep in going ... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted February 11, 2018 Report Share Posted February 11, 2018 (edited) Great progress, Michael. That’s coming along really nicely. As you’ve got a good touch with the green stuff, there are a couple of easy fixes you could apply, if you wanted to. It appears that, interestingly, your counter is missing some resin between the pins; Two small blobs of green stuff could sort that out. Another blob could be added to the hole in the underside of the folding stock, again, if you fancied it. I know you mentioned that you’re not going for “Hero” levels, however it’s clear to see that you’re good with the green stuff and could probably do these bits in your sleep. Looking forward to your next updates. :-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Edited February 11, 2018 by CableGuy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialbrewer[TK] Posted February 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2018 Great progress, Michael. That’s coming along really nicely. As you’ve got a good touch with the green stuff, there are a couple of easy fixes you could apply, if you wanted to. It appears that, interestingly, your counter is missing some resin between the pins; Two small blobs of green stuff could sort that out. Another blob could be added to the hole in the underside of the folding stock, again, if you fancied it. I know you mentioned that you’re not going for “Hero” levels, however it’s clear to see that you’re good with the green stuff and could probably do these bits in your sleep. Looking forward to your next updates. :-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Thanks for pointing these issues out! Got a little overzealous with the grinding on the counter and the folding stock. Will definitely fix those.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialbrewer[TK] Posted February 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 So I’m perplexed what to do with these insulated wires. I’ve pored over reference photos and the PDFs in the E11 guides and don’t see any detailed photos to guide me. Do they just sorta get tucked in there under the cylinders? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialbrewer[TK] Posted February 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 Well, I did a little digging and found some pictures on ebay for what to do with the wires and underneath the power cylinders. I found these photos:But of course… I don’t care about this level of detail since everything is going to be painted matte black anyway. No one is going to see the underside of the power cylinders.I did get a lot done this evening and feel like I am on the homestretch. I have a checklist of about a dozen and a half things left to do and I think it’ll be ready for trooping. One quick question: I have seen references in the completion kit about securing the front of the folding stock with two screws. But I have no clue where. I’ve looked at the folding stock from every angle when it’s against the main shaft and I see no place that makes sense to screw in the folding stock. Where did you guys use a screw to further secure the folding stock?At any rate, here are some more photos from tonight‘s progress.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted February 12, 2018 Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 (edited) Hi Michael. Excellent progress! As you say, the end is drawing in! :-) Good work on the power cylinders. Personally, anything that wasn’t in the FISD Blaster Reference pdf I just followed one of Tino’s builds. Here’s some shots of the power cylinders. Regarding the folding stock attachment, I’ve not heard of using two screws before. I used one mounted into the folding stock, connecting into the bespoke hole in the underside of the barrel. As the Doopy’s folding stock is not functional, you have to locate the front screw in the bespoke hole in the barrel, (pictured above), THEN attach the carriage bolts near the grip end. Regarding your rear sight, if it’s possible to spin it around, the corrugated part faces the back. Your bolt looks great, btw. Not long until your painting this bad boy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited February 12, 2018 by CableGuy Correction 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialbrewer[TK] Posted February 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 Hi Michael. Excellent progress! As you say, the end is drawing in! :-) Good work on the power cylinders. Personally, anything that wasn’t in the FISD Blaster Reference pdf I just followed one of Tino’s builds. Here’s some shots of the power cylinders. Regarding the folding stock attachment, I’ve not heard of using two screws before. I used one mounted into the folding stock, connecting into the bespoke hole in the underside of the barrel. As the Doopy’s folding stock is not functional, you have to locate the front screw in the bespoke hole in the barrel, (pictured above), THEN attach the carriage bolts near the grip end. Regarding your rear sight, if it’s possible to spin it around, the corrugated part faces the back. Your bolt looks great, btw. Not long until your painting this bad boy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Awww crap, I screwed that up — and it’s Zap-a-Gapped on there, so it’s not moving anywhere. :\ I’ll have to see what I can do to pry that off and move it around.And yeah, my bad on saying “two screws” — I think I was reading something else in the Completion Kit printed guide that came with the kit that said “two screws” while I was typing this out last night. That makes total sense though, that wider opening underneath tapering to a narrower opening. That should be easy as pie then to get that in there.The one thing that’s been really frustrating with the gun being matte black, is that most of the photos are absolutely miserable from a contrast and visibility standpoint. It’s been very difficult to tell how things should be placed, even with seemingly good quality photos. If the contrast ratio’s not right, it’s really hard to discern how something should be placed properly.Oh well, still a lot of fun to learn all these things along the way. And I don’t know if you’ve read through that exhaustively long PDF on just the power cylinders, yikes — someone sure had a LOT of time on their hands to compile that exhaustive compendium on all the options for arranging the power cylinders. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted February 12, 2018 Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 (edited) 17 minutes ago, imperialbrewer said: Awww crap, I screwed that up — and it’s Zap-a-Gapped on there, so it’s not moving anywhere. :\ I’ll have to see what I can do to pry that off and move it around. Don't worry - it’s never a problem, only a challenge. If it’s not going to come off without damaging parts, you could perhaps look at putting green stuff over the existing details and smoothing, then using a small file to recreate the detail on the back end. (Well, probably in a reverse order to that so that you can mimic the existing detail before you cover it up). Regarding dark photos, you’re right about some of the screen shots. Thankfully, a lot of the FISD blaster reference and other build threads show pieces in their resin form, which are easier to work with. That blaster ref PDF is a handy thing to download to your phone or tablet, if you haven’t already. 17 minutes ago, imperialbrewer said: I don’t know if you’ve read through that exhaustively long PDF on just the power cylinders, yikes Hehe. I skim read through it but didn’t read the whole thing. I based my cylinders on Tino’s. Keep up the good work, Micheal. This is going to look super alongside your armour. Edited February 12, 2018 by CableGuy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialbrewer[TK] Posted February 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 Well I am on the homestretch… Now it’s a lot of doing little tiny things and waiting. There’s nothing like watching paint dry. I had to hold off painting the main shaft of the gun to fix my screwup on the rear sight. I molded out some green stuff on the back and got it mostly OK, but it’s not perfect. I didn’t have a file with a wide enough pattern, so I used the threads on a large bolt. For the most part that worked OK but the proof will be in the pudding tomorrow when I sand things down and see you how well this maintains its shape. I also decided to leave that other half as is, because it provides a nice mounting point for the scope rail. That’s one thing that led me to believe that I had it right the first time, was because the scope rail fit so nicely and the hole for the scope mount lined up perfectly. Oh well.It’s really difficult to paint in the garage right now though, because it’s about 15°F outside and about 30°F in the garage. I try and paint as fast as I can in the garage and then bring the items inside, but that leads to spray paint smell all over the house. Anyway, here are some photos from tonight‘s progress:Tomorrow I hope to finish sanding down the remaining pieces and paint everything else up. And if I have time, finish up the rest of the mounting. I am also considering going back and doing a couple more coats — now that pretty much everything is painted with satin black, going back over it with charcoal gun metal, and then going back over that lightly with the satin black for a little bit more of a metal finish. It will still be black, but I want it to have more than a one dimensional appearance. I’m not sure if I will get around to weathering the gun much this week, I really just wanted to get it serviceable before my first troop this Saturday.As to the glossiness, I will go back over it when I’m done with a matte clear coat to protect the paint and subdue the sheen a little. I’ll probably also go over it lightly with a light abrasive to scuff up certain areas a little.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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