Anovos Build - Faster Drying, Stronger Glue

[Kazdoom]

Hello Everyone, 

 

First time builder working on an Anovos kit. Been following a few builds on the forums and I have a few questions for the experts. I have a few pieces I'm trying to glue that I'm having some trouble with. In particular - based on the shape / angle / warptitude etc of the parts I'm trying to glue - I can't get the E6000 glue I'm using to set quickly enough or hold strong enough.

 

I'd try clamping them but it's more than that. I need a glue that will set quickly and hold 'through' the bending if you know what I mean. 

 

For example, trying to glue the buttons on the ab piece and i have one corner that just wont' stick down. No amount of magnets, tape and squeezing helped. I tried to hold it down and in place, but about 10 minutes was all I could manage and it just simply didn't hold fast. 

 

So my question is... what glue can I safely use to overcome the warpage and glue this thing together? 

 

I was looking at Zap-a-gap and saw Plasi-Zap. It sounded promising...

http://www.supergluecorp.com/?q=zap/zap-glues/plasti-zap

 

What do you guys recommend?

 

Thanks!

Kaz

Edited June 12, 2016 by Kazdoom

[Dale3van5[TK]]

Hi Kaz, Ive looked through loads of threads and a few people have used the hot water method to bend/shape pieces to the desired shape they need, just wondered if that would work for u to get the shape/angle u would need to be able to have the piece flush to the base

 

 

Move along, move along

[tkrestonva[TK]]

You can use Zap-A-Gap or other CA glues and they'll set quickly, but as I'm sure you've already read - you have ONE shot at it. If you make a mistake it is very difficult (and often impossible) to undo it without permanent damage. Furthermore, Zap A Gap is very runny (which is not a good thing on the bendy areas) and tends to want to go places where it shouldn't - and it will INSTANTLY damage the finish to your armor.

 

If you go with CA glue, I suggest you use a thicker "control formula". It takes a little longer to set than Zap A Gap (minutes vs seconds), but because it has a gel-like consistency it's a lot easier to control.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

E6000 takes a good 24hours to dry and is then strong, at least it allows you to take pieces apart again if you make a mistake, other quick dry glues don't .

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

For physical parts that won't stay in place I use a piece of plastic as a buffer on both sides of a wood clamp made of metal.  a screw clamp once in place will

keep ab button plates flush with just the right amount of pressure.  Spring clamps do not really allow for the exact tension needed.

[DK5IDE[TK]]

In addition to boiled water method, you could magnet/clamp in place and hit it with a heat gun sparingly until it bends to shape. Then you won't need to force it to fit and E6000 would work with no problems

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kazdoom]

You gotta love this community, so nice to get so many good replies so quickly. here are my thoughts questions on the replies for far...

- don't get me wrong about E6000 it seems fantastic but while it's curing it just won't hold strong enough for the shapes I need. I do like that it seems kinda flexible after curing as well. 

- I'm not opposed to doing the whole bath thing, just not sure exactly how to go about it. Is there a reference thread for that? Plus some of the parts I'm working with are pretty darn big so dunking them would not really be an option.

- What is a 'CA' glue? (What, specifically does CA stand for? I'm sure it's a class of glues but not familiar with the term). This is pretty key to me, I know some glues will melt plastic so anything you guys can tell me to prevent a certain kind of glue is appreciated. I also have some bits and pieces around if I have to test first.

- Your point about runny glue and one shot is well taken. I'm definitely a measure twice glue one kind of guy. And I'd only really use it for the stubborn parts. 

 

- I do have a heat gun too, just can't hold the parts and heat them at the same time. i was wondering about that method. How hot do you have to get the parts to do that?

 

and finally

 

- I have a bunch of clamps but none that are big enough to reach all the way to the button part of the ab plate. Do you mind sharing some links about what kind of clamps you're using for something like that? It's just not anything I have on hand so maybe I'm not picturing the right kind of clamp?

Edited June 13, 2016 by Kazdoom

[dejango[TK]]

CA stands for Cyanoacrylate, and is primarily used for for small prop assembly and other quick fixes, it is a chemical that dries extremely fast.

 

This is the kind everyone is talking about: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCX50&P=FR&gclid=CM6PjpCBpM0CFQdqfgodlNkNxg

 

I have an ANOVOS kit and i used some CA glue in some places, but let me warn you that even though it may seem difficult with E6000, if you dont know exactly how you're going to hold something together while it cures, it will probably ruin your armor if you use CA glue. Not to mention it will instantly bond your skin together if it touches you. It also makes a strange semi gloss coating on the armor, which i can only assume is some kind of oxidizing side effect on the plastic. In other words, use at your own risk.

 

 

Heat only really works for bending parts. I would not recommend heating plastic in order to make it stick to other pieces. 

 

Here is a thread for heating armor : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/page-34#entry472795

My clamps look like this 

Edited June 13, 2016 by dejango

[Kazdoom]

Excellent, thanks again for taking the time to reply and address all of the questions!

[msouza[TK]]

You can also make some "cam clamps" that are long enough to get it exactly where you need it.<br>

if you google it you'll find a bunch of plans for them.