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M38 Hollow Core Scope Project 2016 - Bulldog44

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.......Quality is also an issue as I had casted a few with one or two tiny air bubble holes in noticeable areas. I literally have to sit the and spin the mold by hand for 15 minutes to ensure the bubbles are kept at bay. Trying to make some device to just spin them for me but time , money and space are a problem at the moment.

I'd buy one of the "B" versions with the bubbles. I'm pretty handy and could fill those so you'd never know! ;) I am soooo looking forward to these being ready! Edited by MoSc0ut
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All good mate, did some digging around and found a thread where Aaron (useatt2) posted a link to a source for some screws that fit :)..

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#92220a171/=yi0cyr

 

Cheers

Bryn, thanks for finding that post and linking it here. Very helpful. I am now trying to find the mounting screws for M19 scopes too. This scope project has really stretched beyond what I thought it could. Hopefully all the hardware for the scopes can still be purchased.

Thanks again.

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I'd buy one of the "B" versions with the bubbles. I'm pretty handy and could fill those so you'd never know! ;) I am soooo looking forward to these being ready!

Thanks Jim for your interest. I hope I can start offering them in the very near future. Each time I think I am ready to start a sales thread I find that some things are not exactly that nice to sell. The way I cast some small parts, lots of air gets trapped on the back sides and leaves big open pockets. The back areas will never be seen but I still feel like I can do better to reduce these imperfections. I am not using any venting lines out of the molds so this is why I can't get rid of the air. Plus the ring parts do not screw on to the main scope as expected . Some do but most are just too loose or too tight to screw on. Very odd results. I guess the builder can just glue the parts in place when everything is set up with the lenses.

Keep checking back here for sure. I will start an interest list soon to get a scope ( no pun indented!) on how many people would want to buy these, b grades and all.

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Totally understand. I made some wooden stands for my coworkers monitors because they moved us to smaller desks. Everyone loved them but I could see every little imperfection on each one! I finally realized that people more appreciated that I did my best to make them perfect more than the fact that they ACTUALLY were perfect. I had a hard time handing off something I felt still had some flaws but they were just excited to get them!

Maybe a good way to test what others think is get a few of theses kits into the hands of some of the subject matter experts and have them give you feedback on what they think?

I would not be a good candidate....yet, but I know there are several (that are following this thread) that are intimately familiar with just about every aspect, of real and reproduction, versions of these sights. It would also be excellent advertising to get that approval. Probably so much that you'll be overwhelmed with orders.

 

 

Jim

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Totally understand. I made some wooden stands for my coworkers monitors because they moved us to smaller desks. Everyone loved them but I could see every little imperfection on each one! I finally realized that people more appreciated that I did my best to make them perfect more than the fact that they ACTUALLY were perfect. I had a hard time handing off something I felt still had some flaws but they were just excited to get them!

Maybe a good way to test what others think is get a few of theses kits into the hands of some of the subject matter experts and have them give you feedback on what they think?

I would not be a good candidate....yet, but I know there are several (that are following this thread) that are intimately familiar with just about every aspect, of real and reproduction, versions of these sights. It would also be excellent advertising to get that approval. Probably so much that you'll be overwhelmed with orders.

 

 

Jim

Jim,

   Good idea about getting some scopes to fellow members for a review. Your wooden stands story speaks a lot and maybe I am being too critical of what I have made already. It would certainly help to see what others think if they had one of the scope kits in hand to give feedback. 

:) One scope review may pop up in the near future and when it does I will post the link. 

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and ideas.

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Thanks for the reply. I recently made my first attempt at casting myself and when I saw your first ones I was blown away at what you are able to do. I felt like such an amateur after seeing those "first attempts"! After 23 years in the military (retired now) I constantly had to inspect all kinds of items for imperfections but that stuff is made by the lowest bidder! As I said before I have no experience with resin cast parts, besides my own meager attempts. (Hovi mix tips, and a hollow Sterling grip) but if you want a layman opinion I'd be happy to oblige! ;)

 

0bc0e460b0b8678a6469d4bc3454773d.jpg

 

3dd2fae4f2c408a9285c439292cb2c79.jpg

 

 

Jim

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Sorry no photos today just an update on the project.

 

Discovery 1:

     Solved a silicone disaster mystery. Small setback in materials but now I know that the white silicone I use for the scope cannot be paired with the clear silicone I use for the small parts. I tried using the latter silicone to make the other half of a mold and found it didn't cure where the two surfaces meet. At first I thought it was the silicone barrier liquid I used to keep the two halves from sticking together. Did a small test and found out that vaseline and the silicone barrier stuff were both fine. But found out whenever the clear silicone came in contact with the white silicone, it left a slimy mess. Lesson learned, move on!

 

Discovery 2:

     I had a chance to open and examine my M19 scope and found that the prism cell on both scopes are identical in serial number and size. One less part to mold if I make M19 scope kits!

 

 

Discovery 3:

     Not sure if it was the previous owner or not but someone did take the M19 scope apart at one point and managed to unscrew the larger lens assembly, making it easy to take out the 2 glass lenses inside. There was some obvious scratches/damage to the part but the payoff is now I have a large lens assembly that I can cast without the lenses in place. Even better this part is the same diameter as the one in the M38 so it can be used for both scopes. It is shorter in tube length, has wider threading band but since this will be an internal part I think it will be a nice addition. If I can find a lens that matches the originals, then it will be a simply installation. Might need to either glue the lens in place or make some retainer ring to hold the lens in place. I already made one half of the mold and tonight I should be able to pour the other half that captures the inner chamber. Fingers crossed! 

 

Upcoming Developments:

  • Second 1942 M38 scope mold almost finished. (Another M38 scope with white text centered on the top not side) Originally wanted to make a backup mold of the first scope but thought it might be better to cast some diversity. This scope has some green oxidized surface issues on one side that may affect casting but thought it might be nice to capture the patina rather than strip it all down and made clean casts. The casts can always be sanded to a smooth finish.
  • One more little bucket of silicone ordered and with that I can try making a mold of the M19. There is a small light socket on the side of the scope that may cause air to get trapped so I am considered 2 ways to approach making the mold. 

That is all for now! Photos to come soon when I get time to document. :) Thanks for stopping by!

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Thanks for the reply. I recently made my first attempt at casting myself and when I saw your first ones I was blown away at what you are able to do. I felt like such an amateur after seeing those "first attempts"! After 23 years in the military (retired now) I constantly had to inspect all kinds of items for imperfections but that stuff is made by the lowest bidder! As I said before I have no experience with resin cast parts, besides my own meager attempts. (Hovi mix tips, and a hollow Sterling grip) but if you want a layman opinion I'd be happy to oblige! ;)

 

0bc0e460b0b8678a6469d4bc3454773d.jpg

 

3dd2fae4f2c408a9285c439292cb2c79.jpg

 

 

Jim

No way Jim, your casting looks great! Love that sterling grip. And the hovi tips look flawless. Very impressed! 

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No way Jim, your casting looks great! Love that sterling grip. And the hovi tips look flawless. Very impressed!

Well, that's after clean up and paint, but thank you. I am going to try and modify some into speakers, not to cut into UKswrath's business or anything, I just think I can make a set cheaper for myself. If it works I'll do a "how to" on it and those feeling ambitious can give it a go.

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Well, that's after clean up and paint, but thank you. I am going to try and modify some into speakers, not to cut into UKswrath's business or anything, I just think I can make a set cheaper for myself. If it works I'll do a "how to" on it and those feeling ambitious can give it a go.

Definitely post your how to when you get it ready. With all the costs involved to upgrade things any dollar saved doing it yourself is a good thing. I recently made a quick helmet fan bracket like Echo sells out of cheap plastic sheeting from the dollar store. Worked perfect and costed me just a few dollars to buy the plastic and some Velcro. Hope to buy his product someday but for now I need to save where I can.

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I really like the attention to detail and the way this thread is going.

Thanks Chris. I wish I had more photos to show instead of all that text. Its hard to keep words to a minimum when trying to explain things in detail. Glad you are enjoying the project and hope the next few updates will keep things interesting. Another half day for the silicone to cure and then I should have my next test mold ready to start casting again.

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M38%20Scope%20Number%202%20Test%20Cast_z

 

Made a cast of another 1942 M38 Scope I have that has the ID stamping top and centred. The surface of this scope is not great due to oxidation damage but it adds to the antique/used look. The surface can always be sanded to a smooth finish anyway if desired. Had some issues getting the walls of scope to cast evenly. Hoping this is just an issue with the mold moving during casting. The scope feet seemed a bit uneven too so I think for sure the mold must have shifted a bit.

 

 

M19%20Small%20Parts%20Test%20Casting_zps

 

Still having air bubble issues on the inner parts when they are casted but that is my fault for not doing things the proper way. Outer surfaces all look clean and parts fit together so far.

If you had purchased one of these kits, would the air bubble issues on the inner surfaces bother you?  I know I will not be able to produce perfect castings with my present set up and methods so I want to see what potentially interested buyers think if they received parts with some large air pockets that need to be filled in.

 

Main scope body is currently sitting in a new batch of silicone. The side light socket on this scope will be the first snag if I don't ensure air gets trapped during the silicone pour or any tearing of this area during de-molding. Update on that when I get the mold completed. 

 

One part missing from this post is the larger lens assembly. I casted that last night but was not able to determine if the area (where the glass lens is) can be easily punched out or not. It is easily thin enough to remove without major surgery. 

 

:) Thanks always for dropping by! 

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It looks like most of the issues are on the back sides and would never be seen once assembled. I for one would not be bothered by this at all. The outsides looks flawless, if I saw this without any other context, I'd think they were the real deal. I'll go pick my jaw up off the floor now! By the time you get to the second gen of these (after you get professional equipment from all the $ from the first gen!) you'll be the sight guy. Great choice of items to make. There are many different types of Troopers but they all need a blaster and (almost) every blaster needs one of these!

 

 

Jim M.

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It looks like most of the issues are on the back sides and would never be seen once assembled. I for one would not be bothered by this at all. The outsides looks flawless, if I saw this without any other context, I'd think they were the real deal. I'll go pick my jaw up off the floor now! By the time you get to the second gen of these (after you get professional equipment from all the $ from the first gen!) you'll be the sight guy. Great choice of items to make. There are many different types of Troopers but they all need a blaster and (almost) every blaster needs one of these!

 

 

Jim M.

Thanks Jim. Deeply appreciate the feedback. The texture from the oxidation damage does enhance the real feel of this second scope and far less spotty areas than the previous scope.  With one new black pigment I am using, the outer finish almost has the look of a vintage paint job. Not easy to mix in for stable results but I think I am getting the hang of it now.

As you mentioned the part defects would be not visible but I am one of those people who will always feel a bit bothered by things like that. Just don't want someone to receive half par parts and be unhappy with what they paid for.

I will totally go broke if I keep trying to update the molds so I hope to start to offer the scopes soon before I dig a bigger hole for myself. One more mold attempt on the M19 parts and then I have to live with it for now until I find a better solution.

 

The scopes are indeed a necessary part and I'm happy if I am able to offer a variety to the community. I really enjoyed buying them due to their history on top of their Star Wars connection. 

 

No plans for equipment upgrades. My operation literally runs in the next room from the living room so I need to sort out a better work area solution first. Health and safety is my biggest concern next to money spent so before I go deep into trouble with fulfilling orders, I need to ensure my family or myself won't be harmed in the process. I don't mind the smell but my family has started to complain whenever I open the door. I use a full respirator mask but still fell that isn't enough. 

 

;) Cheers!

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Get a box fan and put it in the window facing out to vent the fumes. You can even get a piece of expanded polystyrene insulation foam board to fill the gap in the upper part of the window to ensure it creates a good negative pressure in the room. This way when you open the door it sucks air in from the rest of the house (and out that window) vs. venting into living areas. Just run the fan while doing a run and during the curing. Once you have everything fitted it should only take a few minutes to install and take down.

 

 

Jim M.

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Get a box fan and put it in the window facing out to vent the fumes. You can even get a piece of expanded polystyrene insulation foam board to fill the gap in the upper part of the window to ensure it creates a good negative pressure in the room. This way when you open the door it sucks air in from the rest of the house (and out that window) vs. venting into living areas. Just run the fan while doing a run and during the curing. Once you have everything fitted it should only take a few minutes to install and take down.

 

 

Jim M.

Good idea! I am going to try this! I run the air conditioner on air cleaning mode but not always that affective. I would kill for a proper work space or studio!

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I have the luxury of my two car garage, one side dedicated to my "workshop" (meaning there is not a car or other junk there at the moment.) No worries about venting there, just open the garage door. The only issue is no temperature control. 1st world problems!

 

 

Jim M.

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M38%20Scope%20Number%202%20Test%20Cast_z

 

Only thing I would say about this apart from outstanding is the 1 on the side, more accurate if it was a 3...

I know it's just a but pernickety but I'm like that, sorry

 

the force? oh I'll use the force, bring me a hammer...

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Only thing I would say about this apart from outstanding is the 1 on the side, more accurate if it was a 3...

I know it's just a but pernickety but I'm like that, sorry

 

the force? oh I'll use the force, bring me a hammer...

That's just a number that tells you the body style that was used on that particular sight.

 

Different sights were used in different applications during WWII and this was a way to quickly identify which piece of equipment it went with, most likely based off the reticle style inside the sight. Different gun different ballistic characteristics and therefore different reticles. Many different types were used in the SW movie(s) based on what was available.

 

www.partsofsw.com/e11guide.htm has some of this information but I couldn't find the original source I read this from.

 

But based off 23 years of military service (Infantry) I know this is the case with the current ACOG as it can be used on at least 1/2 dozen different weapons AND it too is stamped on the outside of the sight for quick identification.

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Only thing I would say about this apart from outstanding is the 1 on the side, more accurate if it was a 3...

I know it's just a but pernickety but I'm like that, sorry

the force? oh I'll use the force, bring me a hammer...

Kev, was there a particular blaster seen in Star Wars with the number 3 stamped on the side? I may have missed this somewhere, tried to research it but could not find anything. Interested to know. I read that a guy from Bapty had 2 scopes (one identified as an M38) most likely used in the movie.

I just bought the scope but thought a number1 scope looks cool anyway! :)

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Kev, was there a particular blaster seen in Star Wars with the number 3 stamped on the side? I may have missed this somewhere, tried to research it but could not find anything. Interested to know. I read that a guy from Bapty had 2 scopes (one identified as an M38) most likely used in the movie.

I just bought the scope but thought a number1 scope looks cool anyway! :)

I saw something on a post somewhere on here with a pic of an M38 that had a 2 on the side and a reply saying that it's a shame it's not a 3 because that's what was used in the film... I've looked through so many posts on here chances of finding it again are slim, sorry...

 

the force? oh I'll use the force, bring me a hammer...

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One of the pictures I have, it has a 7 on the side.

 

1a90e969c3b8681df98b1b4792853304.jpg

 

I'm sure that the prop mentioned was one of the ones built for all the up close shots so therefore it was assumed that it is the definitive version. I've worked on a couple movie sets and I can tell you that most props are given very little consideration other than the ones that look better are always closest to the camera.

 

 

Jim

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I saw something on a post somewhere on here with a pic of an M38 that had a 2 on the side and a reply saying that it's a shame it's not a 3 because that's what was used in the film... I've looked through so many posts on here chances of finding it again are slim, sorry...

 

the force? oh I'll use the force, bring me a hammer...

No worries. Thanks for trying. 

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Update on the 1942 Scope with ID Stamping on the top & center:

 

     On the second M38 scope I recently casted I mentioned that the walls on one part of the scope casted rather thin. After close inspection of the original scope I found that the walls had the same irregularity. Lost of abrasive marks on the inside of the tube which may indicate someone had done some repair work or tried to fix a deformation when it was originally made. Either way the thin wall is something I cannot undo and will have to live with the way these scopes can be casted. The parts still fit but they do not line up exactly as I noticed with the original scope.  

 

Parts Depot:

 

I have stocked up a small arsenal of small parts for the scopes. Not all are in great condition but nice enough to show. Still having lots of back side air pocket issues and the occasional tiny air bubble defect but I think I am getting closer to putting together some scope kits for sale.  

M38%20Scope%20Parts%20Depot%202016_zpspn

 

 

Bad news:

   After just 3 test casts, my M19 mold was destroyed trying to remove the resin scope :6: . My guess is that I used too much black pigment and it caused the resin to stick to the silicone like glue. Money down the drain. Trying to salvage the mold if possible but its not looking good. The :( M19 project is now on hold.

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