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Helmet electronics and external power supply Gen 4. UKSWRATH


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Generation 4 power supply update 4/12/16

 

 

Due to Anker discontinuing the Astro Pro 2 I updated the power supply used to run my helmet electronics. As you may know I also didn’t care for the Anker minimum mA draw required to sustain the output voltages. As good fortune may have it I found a suitable replacement that doesn’t require any special operation, just plug it in and go.

 

 

The following illustrates what was replaced, upgraded or completely removed.

 

 

Disclaimer: This information is provided for entertainment purposes only. Modifying any electrical component to be used for something other than it was intended may be hazardous. I DO NOT encourage or recommend you do so. Doing so you except full responsibility.

 

 

Alright, with that out of the way let’s get to it. As mentioned above some components were replaced, upgraded or removed. In the parts list I will indicate changes in RED

 

 

Parts:

 

1x Antigravity Mini (replacing Anker Astro Pro 2) $75 - http://www.amazon.com/Antigravity-Batteries-AG-XP-5-Multi-Function-Starter/dp/B00MYA6OCW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

 

1x Cat5e 3’ standard patch cable (replacing 3’ 8pin mini din cable) $11 – http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-5-Pack-Snagless-Ethernet/dp/B00C2CBBAM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00 or 2' https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XIFRSMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

2x RJ45 extension cable, 1’ (replacing female mini din connector) $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FVRU3RM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

1x USB right angle extension cable, 8” (updating current USB extension) $6 – http://www.amazon.com/UCEC-USB-2-0-Extension-Cable/dp/B00W9BAAXK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

 

1x 9v voltage regulator L7809CV (for ROM/FX conversion) $.56 – http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/L7809CV/497-1448-5-ND/585969

 

1x 7.4v Voltage regulator L78S75CV (for Amp 2 (aker) conversion) $.91 - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/L78S75CV/497-14164-ND/1663449

 

1x 5v Voltage Regulator (though not mentioned in the tutorial it's used with the hearing aid) $.44 - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/L7805CV/497-1443-5-ND/585964 

 

22AWG connectors 10 pairs $6 (x2) http://www.amazon.co...AWG 150mm Cable

 

Heat Shrink kit http://www.amazon.co...heat shrink kit

 

Inline fuse holder and 5A fuse:

Inline fuse holder - http://www.amazon.com/1st-Source-In-line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR8EE/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1462199662&sr=8-23&keywords=inline+fuse+holder

5amp AGC fuse - http://www.amazon.com/Quality-brand-Fast-Blow-6X30mm-SHIPPING/dp/B009NTSRFO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1462200118&sr=8-6&keywords=AGC+5A+fuse

 

 

 

Other components:

 

Ukswrath SHA (hearing assist) $60 – http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32487-ukswraths-stormtrooper-hearing-assist-system/

 

Ukswrath Hovi Audio system with iComm $260 - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31436-fs-Ukswraths-hovi-mic-tips-with-speakers-crl-accurate-tips 

**NOTE: The iComm does not need any modifying it has it's own battery source**

 

Ukswrath cooling kit - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35994-ukswraths-cooling-fan-kits/

 

Echo's personalized bracket (no fans, with extra on/off switches) $32 - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24372-fs-helmet-fan-system-echos/

 

5v Cooling fans $6 – Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Brushless-Cooling-0-1-0-3A-50x15mm/dp/B00EL938E6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419394826&sr=1-1&keywords=Vktech+5Pcs+Black+Brushless, Ebay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/261690004729?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT  

 

1x Omni-directional microphone $20 –

 

Ear phones/buds $30 - http://www.amazon.co...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or equivalent. 

 

ROM/FX $160 - http://www.romfx.com/

 

"Power Supply"

Power%20Supply%20Gen%204%20cap.jpg

"Helmet"

Helmet%20Elec%20Gen%204%20cap.jpg

 

Assembly

 

Starting with the battery. Remove the battery cable clamps and installed the inline fuse holder and 5A fuse. 

 

IMG_7911.jpg

IMG_7913.jpgIMG_7915.jpgIMG_7917.jpgIMG_7924.jpg

 

Remove female connector from USB extension cable

IMG_7990.jpg

 

Split the insulation and separate the wires. On a typical USB 2.0 terminal the outer most terminals are the 5v positive and negative. The color code is generally red, white, black & green. Red and white are generally +&-, the green and black are data. Since we won't be using the data we'll trim those back. Carefully install the USB into the battery pack and test the wires for battery voltage. Note; You may have to manually power on the device if it doesn't automatically detect your meter and power on. Mark the harness and note down indicating the power source.

IMG_8004.jpgIMG_8005.jpgIMG_8007.jpg

 

Now take the RJ45 female connector and removed the male side, split the insulation exposing the wires. NOTE: This particular cable manufacturer, like many others may not follow any particular color code scheme or may even switch color code at times. Understanding what you’re looking at is the key here. I highly suggest you read up on data connection cabling, specifically Cat5 since that’s what I’m using.  

 

IMG_8009.jpg

 

After peeling back the insulation I proceeded to connect the wires as per the “Power Supply” diagram. Afterwards I confirmed the output voltage. At the same time if you plan on installing any audio pass through (use the the other unused wires for audio or other) install the other connectors as well as per the wiring schematic. Be sure to install shrink wrap as you'll be covering the bare connections along the way.

 

IMG_8014.jpgIMG_8016.jpgIMG_8016.jpgIMG_8019.jpg 

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Once finished heat shrink the whole bundle.

 

IMG_8026.jpg

 

 

To test the battery and harness output I installed a spare RJ45 patch cable with exposed wiring the using a volt meter tested voltage output and resistance through the audio connectors (not shown)

 

IMG_8027.jpg

 

 

Helmet power supply harness

 

Similar to the helmet harness I peeled back the second RJ45 female connector and connected the helmet harness connector as per the wiring schematic. 

 

IMG_8029.jpgIMG_8030.jpgIMG_8032.jpg

 

 

Connect the helmet power supply harness to the existing helmet component harness and confirmed fan and SHA operation.

 

IMG_8033.jpgIMG_8036.jpg

 

 

Amp 2 Installing voltage regulator

Just a friendly reminder, you're doing this at your own risk. FYI, this voids any and all warranties lol

 

PCB and Voltage 7.4v regulator.

IMG_8039.jpg

 

I started by locating the battery pins and marking which terminal was + and -. Afterwards I removed the battery supply pins.

 

IMG_8041.jpg

IMG_8040.jpg

IMG_8045.jpg

 

Prepare to install voltage regulator.

IMG_8047.jpgIMG_8048.jpgIMG_8050.jpg

 

Install regulator

IMG_8051.jpg

IMG_8052.jpg

 

 

Install the battery supply harness

IMG_8053.jpgIMG_8054.jpgIMG_8055.jpgIMG_8057.jpg

 

 

Check input voltage to AMP 2 PCB. before the regulator it 12v, PCB voltage is 7.5v

 

IMG_8058.jpg

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IMG_8086.jpg

 

 

Installing ROM/FX 9v voltage regulator

IMG_8061.jpg

 

 

Locate and mark battery source terminals

IMG_8062.jpg

 

Remove original battery wiring. 

IMG_8065.jpg

 

 

Install new regulator

IMG_8069.jpgIMG_8071.jpgIMG_8073.jpg

 

 

After attaching the battery supply harness test input on PCM voltages.

IMG_8074.jpgIMG_8075.jpg

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Helmet battery supply harness installed

IMG_8079.jpgIMG_8080.jpg

 

 

Checking components (Amp 2 if FO TK bucket).

IMG_8090.jpgIMG_8091.jpg

 

 

Battery supply placed in three different locations on my FOTK

 

Chest

IMG_8103.jpgIMG_8104.jpg

 

 

Left forward pouch

IMG_8094.jpgIMG_8095.jpg

 

 

Left rear pouch

IMG_8098.jpgIMG_8099.jpgIMG_8101.jpg

 

 

On the OT TK you can vecro it to your chest plate.

 

Enjoy

 

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For those of us who have the Amp 2 and ICOMM from you, we do NOT need a regulator for the ICOMM, just the AMP 2, correct? 

 

Correct. The iComm is self powered hence the reason when the battery goes dead internally they quit working. FYI for the masses

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OK, I thought I remember you saying that. You might want to put an asterisks on the first post so it's loud and clear. Looking forward to doing this soon! 

 

Which part? The iComm not needing to be converted or the battery will eventually go dead?

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Tony - thank you for all of your research and expertise. This is a great thread. Question - is it necessary to drop the voltage to 9v for the ROM/FX? I seem to remember that it can take 12 volts.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Your are correct, ROM/FX states it can take 9v or 12v. Mine came with a 9v battery pack, so I'm personally more comfortable with 9v. Thanks for the question.

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Are your Hovi tip speakers compatible with the ROM/FX or would I need to make some modifications?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's exactly what I use in two of my helmets, rom/FX and my hovis

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

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Hi....i am new to this forum. I am an electronics hardware design engineer and and have pretty knowledge about what you are sharing here. I would like to say thanks for sharing your work here. It looks a really very helpful information. I am also planning to build the same like thing,I noticed your hearing aid running on the 12v, along with your AMP 2 & ROM/FX. It is very inetresting. But i will find any other solution.

 

IC programming

Edited by RafZwicke
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Hi....i am new to this forum. I am an electronics hardware design engineer and and have pretty knowledge about what you are sharing here. I would like to say thanks for sharing your work here. It looks a really very helpful information. I am also planning to build the same like thing,I noticed your hearing aid running on the 12v, along with your AMP 2 & ROM/FX. It is very inetresting. But i will find any other solution

 

Hello RafZwicke, welcome to the FISD. Thank you for your kinds words. Any improvements you may have feel free to share them. Making a better system for those interested in such things is our goal here.

 

Cheers

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I noticed in your schematic you have your hearing aid running on the 12v, along with your AMP 2 & ROM/FX.

 

I have your AMP 2, my hearing aid & No ROM (nor icomm). Would that work? Sorry, new to this. Hehehe

 

The hearing units I sell will work yes because they have a voltage regulator built on to the PCB. The AMP 2 no, not without installing a voltage regulator as illustrated above.

 

Hope this answers your question

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If you add it to the 5v system you should be ok. Just don't run fans off the same system or you may get the old car radio whining sound.

I tested this out... added a usb to this hearing amp and got lots of humming, static, etc - when plugged into the Anker. When I plugged into standard 12v outlet via the usb, the humming goes away. Just tested with both fans and hearing on the same battery, like Tony mentioned, lots of fan whining noises.

Edited by cjdesign
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I tested this out... added a usb to this hearing amp and got lots of humming, static, etc - when plugged into the Anker. When I plugged into standard 12v outlet via the usb, the humming goes away.

 

Thanks for your input.

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