BDWC[TK] Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Hey, if it were easy then everyone would be in the 501st. The best part of this is seeing the finished product after investing the blood, seat, and tears...figuratively with the blood part. Post pics and ask for guidance. Meet with some members of your garrison for a hand. There is NO WAY this is a lost cause. Take some down time, let everything settle and marinade. Then come back to it. Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk Well it would be easier if I had wanted to be an officer instead of an armored trooper, but I don't look good in those hats Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strength Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Ha ha ha ha ha, touche! Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DK5IDE[TK] Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Hang in there, brother- those fixes are coming along nicely! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted June 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 I am looking forward to an armor workshop I am hosting this Saturday for several reasons: I get to meet my fellow garrison members in person I have not been able to travel to any of the recent other workshops due to health issues I'm going to be working on my armor anyway It's 4th of July weekend so whats better than a cookout with other troopers? (and some fellow veterans) Definitely needing the morale boost after the above tragedies 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 I really enjoyed the workshop today thanks to my fantastic garrison troopers. A successful mission of troopers helping troopers and a great morale booster. Thanks to Jon, Josh, and Phil, I am back on track. Plus it was a great pre-4th cookout Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 (edited) Double post Edited July 5, 2016 by BDWC 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted July 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 (edited) Just an FYI update, that although I am sooooo close (just need to resubmit a couple of photos, and I had hoped to do it this weekend) it will now be a few weeks out. Thankfully my back and hip kept quiet for the armor workshop, but I woke up not being able to walk today. Then this evening a disc decided to take out my other leg with pain like I have never felt before. So after an ambulance ride, 7+ hours in ER and various IV meds, I am now back home. So I will have to put my kit updates on hold while I get some of my own parts fixed ( I offered them E6000 ) I'll be back soon, (optimistically with an operating # once I get patched up ) Thanks again for everyone's help on getting me so far on this journey Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk Edited July 4, 2016 by BDWC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) Okay, I am determined to finish this, and hopefully soon retake my submittal photos in the next month or two (fingers crossed, knocking on wood, et.al.) It is just so frustrating that my ab plate popped out for the photos and the next day my back sent me to the ER. I do guarantee you one thing though, once all the dust settles and I have my operating number, I definitely will not take my 501st membership for granted! What started as a fairly straightforward armor build has turned into more challenges than I could have imagined. Outside of my current physical limitations, it's really ironic that I was so careful trimming out the armor parts so as to not have any stray Exacto cuts anywhere on the armor. I even waited until just before suiting up for my submittal photos to take all the protective wrap off the armor out of fear of it getting scratched up during the build process. Turns out that scratches on a thigh or butt plate would really mean nothing...so what do I screw up...the center of the face (I genuinely hate Murphy and his law) So, I am biting a huge bullet and trying to rebuild the damage. I disassembled the helmet (again), gave it a hot bath, and using used a form I made (from another ANOVOS bucket belonging to an awesome Garrison friend), I was able to restore the indents marked by the arrows and add most of the gum-line back in that center tooth area. This took four rounds of boiling, rubbing into the form and repeating until I thought it was as good as it would get. Below is the form I used: So, another leap of faith, I sanded down the remaining "rough area" and filled it back over with ABS paste. And here is where I am at now. You can see that the other areas are pretty well straightened out (not perfect, but about as good as it's going to get) Also, the tear on the right bottom gumline next to last tooth has been filled. I'll give this at least 24-48 hours to fully cure, then start the sanding process. Luckily my 1500, 2000, 2500 wet/dry sandpaper and my Novus 1-2-3 kits already arrived. (I bought all of that preparing for adding my ab shims, but looks like I'll be fairly versed on the process by the time I get to adding those pieces. To anyone who has read this far and has had any experience in the ABS filling and sanding process, please comment with any tips or lessons learned. I would really apprecite anything that could help me though my first ABS paste experience. (the nose...why'd it have to be the nose....deep sigh) Edited August 3, 2016 by BDWC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted August 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 okay start to sand down the ABS paste and I found several "pits" in the fill ....so I applied another thin layer of ABS paste, first kneading/mixing it well to try to work out all the air bubbles. Next day, sanded down well, minimum pitting, but for some reason the ABS paste fill (from the same trimmings no less) seems a little bit darker than the rest of the ABS. Is this just while it's wet from the sanding? I had sanded using 100->400->600->1000->1200 and it still looked pitted....so back to 100 and start over..ogh...this is going to take some time Anyway, the sanding has thinned out the upper gum point to almost braking through, so I'm putting some "back-up" ABS paste behind that to reinforce the area. I'll let that sit and try again tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiex210 Posted August 11, 2016 Report Share Posted August 11, 2016 Paint color for frown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiex210 Posted August 11, 2016 Report Share Posted August 11, 2016 Curious what specific Humbrol paint you used for the teeth? Same grey as for buttons? It seems darker than Anovos frown grey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted August 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 Paint color for frown It is Testors #1138 I also wasn't entirely happy with the fix, so I applied an additional smoothing coat of newly mixed ABS paste and repeated the entire process I also refined the teeth-to-gums and completely repainted the frown I'll post new pictures once the screen glue has dried :-) Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Nose damage fixed, frown repainted.... Reassemble Time! Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted September 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 (edited) Well I made it through basic approval, so now on to upgrades! First on deck is putting my new TKittle belt in place of the Anovos "Mr. Floppy". Sure I could have just cut off the ammo pouches and velcroed it on, but I need a challenge. So I attempted to safely remove the rivets and covers. I got the first one off with almost no damage, but not so lucky on the second two One of the covers even tore So on the ABS paste repairs on the ammo belt and may need to be performed on the cover as well However I noticed that the cover recesses matched some button batteries I had laying around, so may try to vacu- form some replacements first Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk Edited September 7, 2016 by BDWC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 Keep up the good work Jim 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted September 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Well after a trip to Harbor Freight to pick up a hollow punch set, I got the ammo pouches re-attached. Since the ANOVOS snaps are smaller than the Tandy line 24 snaps, I drilled out the "stock" ones I had already installed for the floppy belt. This did make it easier to lay th TKittle belt in place and then just mark the snap location through the ab late holes. Then I centered the pouch assemble to transfer the rivet hole locations. I found that the installed backer washers were more like 5/32 , but the rivet I had that size were too long or too short. So I just kept with the 1/8x 1/4s I had on hand (same as on Ukswrath's tutorial) and found the right size smaller ID washers to use. Good thing I'm a pack rat with hardware! After installing the pop rivets they didn't pull as tight to my liking, so I hammer riveted them down sone and now they look just like the cap rivets Covers are now glued on place, all that's left is to pop in the holes for the holster... Just two please, LOL Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted September 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 Holster re-installed, and rivet covers glued up! Next stop, helmet fans!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted July 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2017 Okay, I've had a LOT going on since I last updated my build thread, so now it the time!!!! After fixing my helmet fiasco, things settled down, and after receiving official membership, I started trooping. Of course I found areas in my biceps and forearms that were cutting into me, along with a small spot on one shin. All easy fixes with lexan scissors, sand paper, and the addition of some weather stripping foam. Well, I also went through a major move, and I am now in a new garrison, and trying to get used to how things are run somewhat differently. All that aside, I desperately need to commit and start on my kidney plate shims so I can add the extra needed strapping and the required rivets for EIB and (hopefully eventually...) Centurion. I'm afraid to cut off the front return edge for the kidney plate shim because I really don't understand if it's needed or just nice to have. I would think that it would make the plate look more uniform, than to be tapered down for this "love handle cover strip". One idea I had was to cut off the existing return edge, about halfway to the notch location, and put the added ABS sheet in between. I ordered a 12"x12" white ABS .090 sheet to use as the shim and to overlap behind the kidney plate. YEs this makes for two sema fills per side versus one, but what's the difference once the ABS pasting starts and the sanding and polishing is all the same, right? LOL Then I would use trim scraps I saved from the original ANOVOS ABS to make the shim flush with the kidney plate and the removed return edge portion, by gluing it onto the overlapping backer sheet. This was my idea to avoid painting and to have a perfect ABS color match. Yup, it'll be lots of sanding. The question I have that is stopping me from starting this is, again, the whole return edge issue. I would "like" to have the top and bottom reuten edges, as well, but how do you make thise without damaging or snapping the ABS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted August 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 (edited) Alrighty, it's been a while, and as I do more troops, I see more and more thing that I need to change/upgrade. Right now I just can't stand the Velcro in the top of the Anovos stock helmet liner rubbing on my bald head. So time to put a real hard hat liner in it Also, the mounting for my self-made fan system just isn't as sturdy and clean as I'd like. I tried using some self-sticking craft foam to "shim" up some mounting Velcro for my fans, but it just didn't conform well enough to the inside areas of the helmet "tubes" where I had them mounted, just outside the frown area at the bottom of the helmet. So I used some air dry clay to fill in the areas to make a flat mounting area for my fans (I used this same method for attaching the stud posts for securing my lens mounting screws) I will then E6000 the clay shims to the helmet and glue the 'fuzzy' Velcro to the new flat mount area on the installed shims. I already glued the hookside of the Velcro onto the backside of the fans. ( I would post pictures, but I've reached my size limit....time to set-up an Imgur account) Edited August 27, 2017 by BDWC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted August 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 More things to do: Cut out mounts from purchased hard hat & glue into bucket for new mounting Order/make thigh garter Glue in foam on biceps to help positioning to allow shoulder bells to sit better. Glue in foam on forearms to alleviate "armor bites" Trim down tops of thighs, and remove return on back sides Add in snap plates to shoulder-bicep connections where Velcro is installed (last of Velcro left for "fitting") Remove cod area return edged (because reasons!) Cut off end return areas of kidney plate to add in ~70mm of shim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daetrin[Admin] Posted August 27, 2017 Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 Man, talk about grit. This is probably one of the most "never gonna give up" threads in a long time. Makes my minor tweaks look really, really minor. Keep that chin up 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted August 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Finished cutting out the hard hat mounting pieces and cleaned them up for installation Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted August 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Using the hard hat liner, and the marks I made using the 'hard hat brim' with all the mounts still attached, I marked the locations onto white duct tape. Then I used rare earth magnet and duct tape to E6000 the front mounting clips onto place ( Note: I went with the duct tape since the regular blue painter's tape just didn't hold the parts in place securely enough)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted August 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 (edited) Oh... here's what a cannibalized hard hat looks like, LOL Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited June 9, 2018 by BDWC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDWC[TK] Posted August 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Still waiting for the fan "shims" to fully dry. Maybe another day or two, then I can take s dremel to them for clean-upThese sure look ugly now, but they sure do fill in that egg shaped area by the hovi tips really well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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