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Heavy Weapons Backpack build part 3, Final


ukswrath
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This will be the final installment to the HWT back pack build. Part 3

 

Part 1 http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30034-hwt-backpack-build-part-1/

Part 2 http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30036-heavy-weapons-backpack-build-part-2/

 
 
7) Backpack Base: Once I figured out the size I needed for a base, I found and purchased 12.5 quart drain bucket from Amazon.
 
2.jpg
 
7a) Remove the drain funnel, fill & pour caps and cut off the threaded spouts. 
 
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7b) Scuff up the plastic to take off some of the new plastic shine
 
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7) Installed the rubber radio antenna in the top hole (pour spout) DO NOT install antenna. 
 
7) I slid a flat washer down onto the antenna (seen above)
 
7d) Took a section of Velcro (hook and loop sides), cut out a antenna top and glued it to the antenna (seen above)
 
 
 
 
7e) Assemble and install upper and lower mounting straps using 1" nylon webbing and 1" buckles.
 
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7f) After determining how all the pieces we going to paced I drilled holes from the front panel side. Using drywall screws and glue attached each piece until completed.
 
Final pictures. 
 
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I do apologies for this being in 3 parts.
 
 
If you have any questions or comment please don't hesitate to leave them here or PM me. 
Edited by ukswrath
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In a word, outstanding!  I have 2 questions, though, Tony... First, the CRLs for HWT say that the helmet, etc., should be "lightly scuffed".  Is there a way to get that effect without making it permanent?

Second, It also mentions the MP-40 ammo pouches.  What is the mounting specs for those?  Thanks again!

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I am starting this build as soon as Amazon gets my supplies delivered, and doing it in conjunction with my TK build.  (Gotta have something to keep me out of mischief while E600- dries).  I was wondering if the round opening in the back scratches the OII section of the back plate?  If so, would you recommend opening the hole up a bit to where the OII actually fits  inside, and perhaps padding the inside edges/back?  Also, (again with the questions), would it be permissible to use a slightly wider strap, and maybe adding some thin "backpack" style padding to them?  Just wondering......  "Curiosity killed the cat, but satisfaction brought him back"!  Thanks!

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Great questions, do not feel pressured to ask, that's what's were here for.

 

How long you letting the e6000 dry before continuing? Though 24 to 48 hours is recommended in some areas I continue my building 6-8 hrs after applying, anyways to answer you questions...

 

You can make the hole bigger if you wish but I don't recommend it. The hole is almost the exact circumference as the II O portion sticking out. It sits perfectly in the cut out section.

 

Yes it will scratch it so I suggest using door insulation where one side is sticky, generally found in the door hardware section of you local hardware store, something tuff. You can also use an old black shirt to cover the hole.

 

Yes you can make the straps wider if you like. On my TD backpack I actually use straps from a cheap school backpack that has padding built in.

Edited by ukswrath
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Just what I needed to know!  I'm doing the recommended 24 hrs. with the E3k, but now I am thinking that I may be able to attach the outer cover strips 6-8 hours after the inner ones.  These rare earth magnets are unbelievable!  I appreciate the info!

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Just what I needed to know!  I'm doing the recommended 24 hrs. with the E3k, but now I am thinking that I may be able to attach the outer cover strips 6-8 hours after the inner ones.  These rare earth magnets are unbelievable!  I appreciate the info!

It's all about glue cure times. While making alteration to my TD from Police to SWAT I was actually using my heat gun to warm the plastic to speed up the cure time. I NOT suggesting you do this, just a FYI ambient temperatures make a huge difference.

 

You're welcome Joseph, keep up the good work.  :duim:

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  • 2 weeks later...

This build saved my day. I had so many questions about the HWT Backpack and now all have been answered. Thank You for sharing your Skills.

 

You're very welcome Kai. It's all about troopers helping troopers. Good luck on your build.  :duim:

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  • 3 years later...
17 minutes ago, Wookiepanub said:

Any ideas for the antenna? Since that last one was discontinued. Thanks

It's not a requirement. As a matter of fact it will eventually be eliminated from the CRL. That said you can pick up something similar for most automotive stores.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm curious how you mounted your parts to the pack itself?  From some of the photos I've seen, it looks like you just drove screws into them from inside the pan.  I'm sure you glued stuff too, but I'm just curious.

 

I inadvertently bought the same drip pan you have.  I was able to attach the 2' tube using 1" bolts and washers with some gorilla glue between the tank and pipe for good measure.  I've got more of them and was planning on using them to mount the other items as well.

 

I found at Walmart that the jewelry storage boxes (with the little compartments) are like $3-4 each and are near the perfect size.  The compartment dividers increase the tensile strength too. 

 

I'll post pictures of my pack as it gets further along.  Right now it's an antenna tube bolted to a mauled oil drip pan. :)

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I used a combination of coarse thread screws and epoxy to mount everything from the inside.  I used a different (thicker) oil pan,(photo 1) and cut out the back for access, and afterward I epoxied black craft foam (from Michaels) over the hole, (photo 2).  This prevents the oil pan from scratching your back plate.

Note that on the left shoulder strap that I attached a 2 snap mount to hold my shoulder ammo pack (see third photo for detail).

 

wS0p30U.jpg?2   uTJifPV.jpg?1ZM9BWjV.jpg?3

 

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I was going to do the same thing with the foam covering.  I've got a bunch of EVA foam from making prop rifles that I was planning on covering the rough parts of the back with.  I was even strongly consider using the same foam for the details (vent flaps, radio facing etc.)  Once you blast the foam with a heat gun (which melts it and closes the cells) it's very tough and durable (and paintable, especially with some plastidip on it). 

 

I actually found a part at walmart that I'm going to try for the siphon.  It's in their craft section as a "cemetery vase" and it's the correct shape/length (including dimensions) and was less than $5.  I like it because it's one piece.  I can paint it up and simply add rivets or do it the foam rifle way.  Most people use the googly eyes that are the right size to simulate rivets/screws, glue them on and paint over them.  I was honestly considering doing the same thing with the boxes that have screws on the corners of them too.

 

Thank you for the reply.

 

 

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...
10 hours ago, DZFireMedic said:

Is the thermal detonator still required? It looks like there is zero room left on your belt for one while wearing the pack.

It is not a requirement at any level for HWT, Derek.  Yes, they were pictured the game (which this costume is based on) but they were sort of semi-circular in shape. 

 

mecI6tq.jpg?1

 

Requiring one like that is impractical, just as wearing one is with the pack as you mentioned.  There are a few HWTs who can wear one (mostly taller troopers), but I would omit it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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