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Centurion specifics needed. HWT specifics also needed


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Hello all, so I'm completing my ATA, ANH Stunt build to EIB, I'll eventually take to Centurion. Shortly there after I'll be applying for HWT and I'll need my holster and drop boxes to be detachable for HWT. I can't seem to find any specifications regarding holster fastener and sizes. If I use snaps to attach the gun holster is there a size requirement on the snaps (fasteners)? Also, can I use a white snap cap (cleaner look) on the outside of the belt or does it need to be metal in appearance?


 


Also, though this may not be the thread for this but does anyone also know if there's one particular backpack I can use with both my TD armor and my HWT ANH Stunt armor, considering both will be dirty?


 


Any info specs or referrals are appreciated.


Edited by ukswrath
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On 11/5/2014 at 9:23 PM, ukswrath said:

 

Hello all, so I'm completing my ATA, ANH Stunt build to EIB, I'll eventually take to Centurion. Shortly there after I'll be applying for HWT and I'll need my holster and drop boxes to be detachable for HWT. I can't seem to find any specifications regarding holster fastener and sizes. If I use snaps to attach the gun holster is there a size requirement on the snaps (fasteners)? Also, can I use a white snap cap (cleaner look) on the outside of the belt or does it need to be metal in appearance?

 

Also, though this may not be the thread for this but does anyone also know if there's one particular backpack I can use with both my TD armor and my HWT ANH Stunt armor, considering both will be dirty?

 

Any info specs or referrals are appreciated.

 

 

For the holster, you should use a rivet through the holster as normal, but on the other side instead of being the strap. it is the male end of the snap, the rivet goes through the snap piece to fasten it and now you can snap on your holste, and noone can tell the difference. Since the inside is not seen, you can use any size snap you want. 

 

For the belt, nothing should be seen for snaps, so it shouldn't matter. The snaps are hidden under the snap plate you glue over the cap on the 3 locations of the belt.

 

If you're going for accurate in and out, it isn't snaps holding the ABS belt to the cloth belt. The 3 pieces that hold them together are cap rivets. Stud on one side, cap on the other. The style is like this:

-----------

 

For the snaps that hold the whole thing onto the armor, are snaps but are hidden, so no need for white ones.

 

Or did I completely misunderstand the meaning of white cap?

Edited by gmrhodes13
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On 11/5/2014 at 9:49 PM, Dday said:

For the holster, you should use a rivet through the holster as normal, but on the other side instead of being the strap. it is the male end of the snap, the rivet goes through the snap piece to fasten it and now you can snap on your holste, and noone can tell the difference. Since the inside is not seen, you can use any size snap you want. 

 

For the belt, nothing should be seen for snaps, so it shouldn't matter. The snaps are hidden under the snap plate you glue over the cap on the 3 locations of the belt.

 

If you're going for accurate in and out, it isn't snaps holding the ABS belt to the cloth belt. The 3 pieces that hold them together are cap rivets. Stud on one side, cap on the other. The style is like this:

 

 

For the snaps that hold the whole thing onto the armor, are snaps but are hidden, so no need for white ones.

 

Or did I completely misunderstand the meaning of white cap?

 

Hey thanks for getting back to me.

 

To recap:

 

Regarding the holster strap. I figured I would use the rivet side of the snap in the outside of the belt (as you mentioned), my concern is most snap rivets are generally 1/2" or larger. I just wanted to be clear that there wasn't a size requirement (too big) for that rivet. I guess I can always grind it down if there were, just didn't want to do that if I didn't have to, cleaner look. The white snap cap instead of a steel looking snap rivet is what I was referring to. I would be correct in assuming this is NOT canon?  

 

 

Regarding the ABS (ammo) belt. I believe we're on the same page here. Cap rivets are used to secure the ABS to the belt and Snaps will be used to secure the belt to the armor.  

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What Tony is talking about is the hardware to attach the holster to the belt. He would like it if he could use the same belt for both Stunt and HWT so he is making the holster remove able.

There is no requirement for the kind of attachment hardware you should use to attach the holster to the belt. As I see it, you have two options; either use chicago screws, or since every snap has a hole in the center, you could rivet the snap to the belt. If you do that, don't squeeze the rivet too hard. Depending on what brand of snap you use, popping the rivet all the way down might warp the snap. Just pull hard enough to set it. Whatever method you choose, just make sure you paint the outside white so it blends in against the belt better.

As for the backpack. Make sure you have all the proper components just don't make it dirty. A little scuffing and weathering is fine.

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Hey thanks for getting back to me.

 

To recap:

 

Regarding the holster strap. I figured I would use the rivet side of the snap in the outside of the belt (as you mentioned), my concern is most snap rivets are generally 1/2" or larger. I just wanted to be clear that there wasn't a size requirement (too big) for that rivet. I guess I can always grind it down if there were a size limitation, just didn't want to do that if I didn't have to, cleaner look. The white snap cap instead of a steel looking snap rivet is what I was referring to. I would be correct in assuming this is NOT canon?  

 

 

Regarding the ABS (ammo) belt. I believe we're on the same page here. Rivets will be used to secure the ABS to the belt and Snaps will be used to secure the canvas belt to the armor.  

 

Ah, I understand now!

 

Don't worry about the size of the back side of the snap, you won't use it, if you use the method I described. A snap has 4 parts, you will only use 3. The female side on the holster strap will be used as normal. but on the male side of the snap that attaches to the belt, you will only use 1 part of the snap. The male part that snaps in will go on the back of the belt and you insert a rivet through the hole on the belt and into the male end of the snap. Rivet it down and now the snap is held on tightly and you have the right look on the outside of the rivet, but the ease of using a snap on the inside.

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What Tony is talking about is the hardware to attach the holster to the belt. He would like it if he could use the same belt for both Stunt and HWT so he is making the holster remove able.

There is no requirement for the kind of attachment hardware you should use to attach the holster to the belt. As I see it, you have two options; either use chicago screws, or since every snap has a hole in the center, you could rivet the snap to the belt. If you do that, don't squeeze the rivet too hard. Depending on what brand of snap you use, popping the rivet all the way down might warp the snap. Just pull hard enough to set it. Whatever method you choose, just make sure you paint the outside white so it blends in against the belt better.

As for the backpack. Make sure you have all the proper components just don't make it dirty. A little scuffing and weathering is fine.

 

Hey Steve, regarding mounding the holster to the belt. So is Derrek incorrect in stating the above?  

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This is what I want to do. Using the image I've provided I want to take Rivet "A" and run it from the outside of the belt and secure it to "B" on the inside. Is this acceptable? 

snaprivetedited.jpg

Edited by ukswrath
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Since you mentioned painting it white to match the belt what would you say if I used a white cap version of the rivet (image top right)? Does the secure have to resemble a rivet or something similar?

Edited by ukswrath
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Derrek wasn't incorrect. Many people who use snaps to make their holsters remove able use pop rivets to attach one of the snap halves to the belt for a cleaner, more finished look. If this method is used, only 3 out of the 4 total parts are used as he said

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I use snaps on the back of the ammo belt for both the holster and the drop boxes.

 

When I dirtyed it up for HWT, I used dust from activated charchol for aquarium filters.  I put it in a ziploc baggie and smashed the charchol lightly with a hammer.  This made some pinholes in the baggie allowing me to brush it lightly in spot to look like carbon scoring.  After that, I lightly coated it with hair spray.  Doing it this way allows for it to be cleaned off for pure shiney trooping.

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I use snaps on the back of the ammo belt for both the holster and the drop boxes.

 

When I dirtyed it up for HWT, I used dust from activated charchol for aquarium filters.  I put it in a ziploc baggie and smashed the charchol lightly with a hammer.  This made some pinholes in the baggie allowing me to brush it lightly in spot to look like carbon scoring.  After that, I lightly coated it with hair spray.  Doing it this way allows for it to be cleaned off for pure shiney trooping.

 

Thanks Mark I like this idea. Give the appearance of dirty but can be cleaned up quite quickly, awesome.

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This is really up to you. However, the original suits used very subtle attachment hardware.post-12041-0-21662700-1415199994_thumb.jpg

You don't want to,go too big here. After all, you don't want this hardware to stick out on you HWT belt. Less is more here.

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While on the topic of holsters, I've seen different build threads and opinions regarding the distance the holster (top edge) has to be from the belt, the distance the the holster strap needs to be from the ammo belt, and the distance the mounting rivets need to be from the edge of the belt itself. Is there a standard for these?

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Derrek wasn't incorrect. Many people who use snaps to make their holsters remove able use pop rivets to attach one of the snap halves to the belt for a cleaner, more finished look. If this method is used, only 3 out of the 4 total parts are used as he said

 

I had to read the start a few times before I understood you said that I was correct :D 

 

The whole 2 negatives cancelling to make a positive thing got me.

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While on the topic of holsters, I've seen different build threads and opinions regarding the distance the holster (top edge) has to be from the belt, the distance the the holster strap needs to be from the ammo belt, and the distance the mounting rivets need to be from the edge of the belt itself. Is there a standard for these?

 

I would be interested to know that too.  I'm at the point to decide where to make holes in my belt for the holster.  I plan to have 1" of holster strap to show below the belt, and the snaps center will be at 3/4" from the bottom of the belt.  And the left strap will be at 1" from the edge of the plastic ammo belt.  It will be a snap on the holster straps, and on the belt l will use a snap (inside) / split rivet (outside).

Edited by Spycee
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Tony... I suck. I've had a PM from you in my inbox for a few days and I was totally procrastinating responding to you. Sorry man. 

 

My holster comes off my belt with snaps. I used a rivet to install the snaps as described here.

 

-Eric

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Tony... I suck. I've had a PM from you in my inbox for a few days and I was totally procrastinating responding to you. Sorry man. 

 

My holster comes off my belt with snaps. I used a rivet to install the snaps as described here.

 

-Eric

 

BTW that's a great thread on the snaps you have there. Awesome ideas

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What make and size snaps most are using these days? I couldn't find an ongoing sales thread.

 

Some are total garbage, trying to avoid these. Half tempted to post a thread myself with some low profile military grade, USA made and inexpensive ones I found. You have to buy them in bulk. I can sell off what I don't use.

Edited by ukswrath
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Dritz snaps are garbage. And even if they weren't the stems are too short to go through anything but thin fabric. Stay away from those stupid an impolite person vario pliers that dritz makes. For a few snaps here and there its fine but you'll be doing enough of them to bend the bajesus out of them.

 

I recommend one of two snaps...

 

First is Tandy Leather:

McMasterCarr.com item numbers (the snaps I use and love but way more expensive):

  • Snaps: 95691A660
  • Punch: 95710A690
  • Die: 95710A696

-Eric

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