Pencap510 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 How do you pull it apart ? (Haven't had to yet - but just curious in case I do)<br /><br /><br />Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 How do you pull it apart ? (Haven't had to yet - but just curious in case I do)<br /><br /><br />Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I took an xacto knife and pushed it between the armor and the finishing strip at one end, and slowly cut away the threads of e6000 holding it together. Once I got about an inch of the finishing strip separated from the armor, I slowly pulled the rest of the strip away and it just came right off. So very easy to do. I ended shaving off anywhere from 10 to 30mm of ABS from each bicep. I put the biceps up on my arm where my real biceps are and flexed to check the fit. At full-on flex my muscles were just starting to push against the biceps. That is the right size for the biceps. I'll get the finishing strips cleaned up and glued back down and start with the forearm / bicep / shoulder attachment again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Hey everyone! Back with some more updates! I've installed the snaps to hold the chest down to the ab, and put the snaps in on my shoulder elastic to snap in the shoulder bells. Here are pics of the test fit for my left shoulder. I have the elastic taped into the shoulder. How is the distance from the shoulder bridge and the general fit looking? I have not put in the elastic strip to hold the shoulder down on my arm yet. I taped down the ABS bridge piece just for visual reference: If that's all looking good, then I'll glue down the elastic inside the shoulder for that connection, put in the strap to hold it down to my arm, and then work on the distance for the right shoulder bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 One other item I'm wondering about - how taut should the elastic that holds the shoulder down onto the arm be? Should there be any slack there at all, or pulled just enough so it's flat across the shoulder, but not pulling the elastic yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLight[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Might need to wear your biceps to tell for sure, but the bell looks large to me. Don't want the bottom of it sticking out or overlapping with your chest plate. I had to trim my shoulder bells down a bit. The spacing from shoulder bridge to bell is good. Should almost be touching. The elastic on the bottom of the bell around the arm should not be loose. It helps keep the bell wrapped around your arm and in place then you can add the hook on bicep to keep biceps in proper place. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Thanks Lighty for the tips! Good to know I have the spacing correct from the shoulder bridge to bell. I'll also make sure to keep the bottom elastic taut enough so it'll hold the bell down on my arm. As for the the bottom of the shoulder overlapping behind my chest plate, I was looking at screen captures and found these troopers: I think these troopers have the overlap of the shoulder bells that you are referring to? If they don't, then I don't think I'm understanding what you're meaning by the bells looking too large and how to trim them down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLight[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Certainly there is variance. However, I like how the trooper in the last picture has his bells flush with the bicep. Meaning the bottom of it doesn't stick out. You have great references of some that did. The one trooper appears to be missing the bottom elastic since his bell is sticking way out and looks funny. I just prefer a more trimmed to trooper look. As far as "overlap", there is going to be some. But the contour of the bells can and should really match the shape of the chestplate. I know I wasn't in the movie, but here is my NE armor... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 When you're suggesting trimming, are you saying to shorten the bell by trimming the area that touches the bicep, or trim the area that runs parallel to the chest? If you mean trimming the long part, did you trim both the front, back, and up where the shoulder meets the bridge? As in, did you trim the same amount all on one side, up, and back down on the other? I don't think you meant trimming the bottom, as the length of your shoulders looks the same as mine. I think I understand that trimming the length wise parts of the shoulders would allow the elastic that wraps around the arm to pull the shoulder tighter onto the arm, while not overlapping (under lapping?) the chest. Am I making any sense? This is a part of the build I've really had an issue understanding since I started researching everything. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLight[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 I mean the front, top and back that is facing your body. Definitely not the length. Not sure how tall you are but I needed the length. Trimming the front, top, and back makes the bell sit better on your shoulder. Just like trimming any other part to suit you. For me, I believe I trimmed a good 1/2 inch on both bells and all around but not the bottom. Hope that makes sense and helps more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLight[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Oh and the only "trimming" I did to the bottom of the bells was to make the return edge consistent with the return edges on the rest of my armor, but I don't remember sanding much. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLight[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 I don't know if this link will work or not. First time I have tried doing so in Tapatalk. If not, check out Redforce's Centurion app. The large shoulder bells with NE armor is specifically mentioned and then also just to size the armor to your body. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/24319-TK-10666-Requesting-ANH-stunt-Centurion-Status-%5B89%5D-%5BNE%5D Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 (edited) Yep! Trim the front, top and back makes sense. I'll be sure to document this part along with some keywords in the post, so others can see what it means to trim down the shoulders if they're too big. I'll trim off a consistent measured amount around the bell, maybe a couple of mm at a time. It seems having the elastic strap at the bottom would help to know how much to trim, but of course it would be glued down to where I'm trimming, so that doesn't seem possible. I'll trim a little and then see how they fit. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk Edited June 13, 2014 by maxsteele Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLight[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 I used my Dremel and sanded a bit at a time and once I got one side perfect, I cut the exact amount off the other side. Take your time. Put on your bicep and tape it to inside of bell with the chest piece on as well to see how it all fits. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 I gotcha Jonathan. This part is making me more nervous, because it seems like it's not just "Take a measured amount around the whole shoulder". It seems like it needs to be cut at an angle to visually follow the contour of the side of the chest piece. I just haven't seen anyone describing this before, and I'm not sure the best way to approach that. I think I'm going to decide between one of two choices - cut the same few mm from all around the shoulders and see how the fit is changed, or just attach all the strapping to the shoulders as-is and just have bigger shoulders. I think if I go with the second choice, I always have the option of correcting it in the future if it's a big issue. Removing the strapping will be easy with using e6000. I feel like I'm getting too close to the end of my build now to start second-guessing how pieces fit on me, and I should continue moving forward with construction. I absolutely appreciate the suggestions and feedback! Please don't take this as "I'm not going to listen to what anyone is saying anymore!" I rely heavily on the opinions and suggestions of everyone on these forums for my build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLight[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 No, no offense taken! I am pretty positive that I took the same distance off all around. Because the top of the bell is so close to your shoulder straps, it automatically is at a slant. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLight[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 No, no offense taken! I am pretty positive that I took the same distance off all around. Because the top of the bell is so close to your shoulder straps, it automatically is at a slant. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLight[TK] Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 We will always be "tweaking" our armor. Good mindset to focus on progress versus perfection. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Hey all, My build is still going. I had a bad filling done a couple of years ago and needed to get a root canal. The tooth is feeling much better now. I wasn't really feeling up to doing anything on my build until that was resolved. A couple of days ago I cut off about 3mm from my shoulders. We'll see how much of a difference that made with their fit. Tonight I have glued the straps for my shoulders and glued in the snaps for my thighs. I made double snap plates for those in case one snap fails. After that glue has dried, I'll work on the straps between the forearms and biceps, and the strap around the shoulders that holds them against my arms. I'll probably need to get a heat gun to bend the edges of my ammo belt to secure it to my thigh. I have decided to not punch any holes through my ab plate and opted for gluing snap plates on the ab to hold my belt in place. If later that doesn't hold up, I can always drill and install snaps directly into the ab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 I don't have any recent pics, because it was 11pm and I didn't want a mirror shot, but last night I put on all of my upper armor, neck seal and helmet. I had tape holding the other side of my shoulder strap in place, to gauge the tightness of the strap, and I don't have my biceps connected to my forearms yet, but man - I was looking like a Stormtrooper. I felt the size of my shoulder bells were looking fine. They push out some from my arms, but I like the look. I wouldn't want to use bicep hooks because that would bring the biceps up much too high on my arms, but they definitely want to migrate down over my elbow sometimes and twist a bit. I'm not sure how to remedy that, but it's a minor issue at the moment. I feel like I could troop with the way they are right now. The other side of the shoulder bell elastic is currently drying, and once that's finished I'll size up, cut, and glue in the elastic to connect the biceps to the forearms. Once that's complete, I'll paint the ab buttons, glue those panels on, glue the shoulder plastic on, and put the holster on my belt. That will complete my upper armor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) Alright, this part has been giving me anxiety and stalling my build - fitting the thigh pack to the bottom of the right thigh. I dunked the entire piece into boiling water and then bent it around a paint can to get the initial bend. Then I found the straight pieces after the end of each box wasn't bent enough. I just dunked each side in boiling water for about 15 seconds, then used the pressure of two paint sticks to put more of a bend on each side. I've positioned the pack on the bottom of my thigh piece. I know I have extra, which will get cut off and the bottoms rounded once I have the holes drilled. Opinions requested on this fit: Questions: - When it comes time to drill, should I drill and fasten one side completely, then pull the pack across to the other side to drill and fasten (If I did this, I would cut the excess from the end I was going to fasten before fastening it)? Or should I drill one hole first, not fasten, but pull the pack across to the other side and find the mark? - Should I drill a hole in the pack first, then mark and drill in the thigh, or should I drill through both pieces at once? - Three boxes on the inside, two on the outside? Or two on the inside, three on the outside? My pics have it as three on the inside and two on the outside. EDIT: The way the bottom of my thigh is shaped, the ammo pack doesn't really sit in a 'two on outside, three on inside' position. It needs to be the way it's shown, with three on the inside and two on the outside. That answers that question. I'm just hoping it looks fine in it's current positioning. Edited July 1, 2014 by maxsteele Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pencap510 Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 The way I secured mine was I drilled both holes in the ammo pack where I wanted them. I marked the thigh on the inside part, and drilled/cap riveted - and secured the inside. <br /><br />When it was secured I stretched it around where I wanted it to join up on the other side and marked my drill point with pencil (through the drilled ammo pack). Drilled the hole and secured! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 No explanations. I'm simply going to say - I did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted July 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 Build is trucking along now! Didn't take any pics yet, but I got my sniper plate glued to the top of my left shin yesterday and today. The sniper plate was digging into my knee. I cut back the return edge, but it was still pressing into it. A little research later, and I found putting some foam padding just below the knee in the front of the shin piece resolves the issue completely. There was a part I could have had glued better, which I'm re-doing right now. Let's take a look at the revised list of items to complete: Armor work to be completed: - Assemble and attach drop boxes to belt - Strapping for the drop boxes is complete, need to close the boxes up.- Procure and attach holster to belt - Order placed- Glue screw covers to belt - Will complete after attaching the holster- Glue sniper plate to top of left shin- Heat bend the thigh ammo belt, drill holes, and set rivets to attach belt on the bottom of right thigh- Glue straps between the biceps and forearms- Glue plastic shoulder bridges to chest plate- Procure and attach TD clips, along with gluing the TD plate and end caps to the PVC pipe - Sent a PM to Troopermaster for TD clips- Attach velcro to my shoes and inside shins to keep my shins in place - Might not need this part if padding in the front of shins keeps them from rotating and riding up. - Install split rivet in cod and attach strap between butt and cod Helmet work to be completed: - Either cut or cap off the screws inside the helmet - I kept the screws the length they are now and hot glued foam pads over them.- Glue in mesh behind the frown - Working on getting some mesh now- Install helmet liner - ordered a set of MICH pads from Amazon. They work great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 It is great see your progress coming along so well! The only thing I see that no one has brought up was the ample amount of return edge on your back plate that you still need to remove. I also wander about your decision to use a snap plate on your ab rather than installing a snap directly to your ab. A snap plate is going to raise the height that your belt sits off the ab. You want this as close to the ab as possible. I just don't see the advantage. And the fact that pretty much 100% of all builds install the snap into the ab is a testament that it works. By the way.......GOT Q-TIPS????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted July 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) It is great see your progress coming along so well! The only thing I see that no one has brought up was the ample amount of return edge on your back plate that you still need to remove. I also wander about your decision to use a snap plate on your ab rather than installing a snap directly to your ab. A snap plate is going to raise the height that your belt sits off the ab. You want this as close to the ab as possible. I just don't see the advantage. And the fact that pretty much 100% of all builds install the snap into the ab is a testament that it works. By the way.......GOT Q-TIPS????? Thanks for the comments Steve! I will certainly get to trimming down the back plate. It may not be done for base approval, but will certainly be done for continuing approvals. I know 99% of all builds install the snaps directly into the ab plate. The advantage I get installing snap plates instead of installing the snaps directly into the ab is my own peace of mind. I'm extremely gun shy after cracking the side of my ab plate installing a split rivet. That combined with the fact that I don't have any type of real safety net what-so-ever when it comes to my kit (no one is making this kit any longer) were the reasons for going the snap plate route. I did see one or two builds through research that used snap plates instead of installing directly. I don't have any current pics with the belt attached via the snap plates, but to my "in-training" eye, it is not noticeable. I'm using snap plates with white webbing, not an ABS strip, so they contour to the armor and have a very low profile. I'll get a pic of the belt snapped in up here soon. Also, if it is a horrible decision that I should have never made and looks terrible, I can just peel the plates off, drill holes, and install snaps directly into the ab. As for my q-tips, they would be very expensive with the amount of padding I have on them now! Edited July 5, 2014 by maxsteele Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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