swmand4 Posted October 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 Thanks for all the paint tips! I've decided to start with satin black and take it from there. The test I did with the Hammered black didn't look too promising, so there's a good chance I will not use it. I did a test with a screw to see if I could make a moving bolt. It kind of works, but the spring is much too stiff. You'd probably end up breaking the charging handle when you pulled it back. Sorry, Aosen. Over the last week or so, I've been slowly spray painting this thing. I discovered I purchased white primer instead of gray, so I went out and got the gray. Here it is with primer: And here it is with satin black (I'll have better pictures when it's finished): I also did a little work on the scope rail and t-bracket after-hours at my office. The pre-drilled holes were not where I wanted them, so I had to make my own. Unfortunately, I forgot the saying "measure twice, cut once". Now the rail looks like Swiss cheese: I drilled the holes in the scope and counter at the same time. I'll be using a #10-32 low-profile socket cap screw. Instead of a risking a crack in the resin, I'm just going to glue the bolt into the hole and the feet of the scope to the rail. It'll be permanent, but I'll trust it a lot more than just a screw. Same thing with attaching the rail to the barrel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpixels Posted October 12, 2012 Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 Instead of a risking a crack in the resin, I'm just going to glue the bolt into the hole and the feet of the scope to the rail. It'll be permanent, but I'll trust it a lot more than just a screw. Same thing with attaching the rail to the barrel. I'm doing the same with mine. I'll be using low profile M6 hex head bolts to fix my scope on. I'm going to glue the counter bracket to the underside of my rail, paint it all, fit the counter, then glue the bolts and scope in place before mounting the whole lot onto the blaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 More progress to show off tonight! Get ready for a photo heavy post... I finally got my low-profile socket cap scews in last week. They look cool, fit better, and are black oxide coated so I don't have to paint them. I think I mentioned before, but I don't trust the screw to do all the work in holding the scope and counter together. So I drilled the holes a touch larger than the screws and glued everything with Loctite super glue. Here's the scope and rail: And the Hengstler counter box: What the underside looks like. This is after I filled the Swiss cheese holes, sanded the filler down, repainted, and glued the parts together: When attaching the rail, I applied some glue to the front where the tab enters the barrel. After that, I touched up the paint in spots where I glued the rail down. Here's what it looked like at this point. Note that the bolt, spring, end cap, and charging handle are not attached and simply held in place by friction. Close up of the bolt, etc. Other side of the blaster. Here I've attached the wires. BEFORE attaching the scope rail, I drilled out the holes in the counter box and the back of the power cylinders using a 1/16" drill bit. The wires I used are some 22AWG stranded black wires, five wraps around a pencil. I like the look of smaller, shorter wires. There's enough there that it's a little messy but not too messy. Close up of the counter box, power cylinders, and wires. A front view of the blaster. Sorry for the washed out look. My camera phone isn't very good, apparently. Another view: I had to put the inner barrel in before attaching the scope rail, since the rail has a tab that would prevent putting it in later. You can kind of see here what it looks like. Since these pictures were taken, I've started weathering the blaster. I'm also working on a piece I can insert into the trench and glue to my bolt to make it look like the it has the correct diameter and the helical swirl. Once that is done, I'll glue the charging handle to the bolt, insert the spring, and glue on the end cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpixels Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Awesome job Sean, well done on the rail hole coverup too, looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkno Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Very neat! Looks awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhapsodyred99[TK] Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Well done, love the stand, is that from the master replica? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthChridan[TK] Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 (edited) Hi Sean... your blaster looks good so far....if I may, I've a few points of criticism. It would looks a little bit better to drill out the holes of the folding stock, to trim the edges of the magazine....like this---> http://world.guns.ru.../sterling01.jpg ...and I've added a little pearl of a necklace in the end of the magazine, see you here---> http://i629.photobuc...oosshowing4.jpg Edited October 23, 2012 by DarthChridan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilboy[501st] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 Looks great Sean! You added some real nice touches. I hope to have another Doopys eventually, and I plan to go a LOT slower.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted October 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) Thank you everynone for the kind words! Well done, love the stand, is that from the master replica? No, it's the E-11 stand Doopydoo's also sells. It doesn't quite sit right. though. The gun is resting on the folding stock and grip with no actual contact with the rear barrel. I plan to fix that in the future with some thin felt or something. It would looks a little bit better to drill out the holes of the folding stock, to trim the edges of the magazine....like this---> http://world.guns.ru.../sterling01.jpg ...and I've added a little pearl of a necklace in the end of the magazine, see you here---> http://i629.photobuc...oosshowing4.jpg Daniel, you are correct. I thought about modifications like this when I started, but was afraid I'd mess it up. Now that I'm almost finished, I'm wishing I'd gone ahead and done them. Maybe there's still time, as I've only done some light weathering on parts far away from the folding stock and magazine. If I do any more mods, I'll go all out. Drill the holes in the folding stock, cut out the thingy in the side of the folding stock near the bayonet lug, round the edges of the magazine, and add the bead. Anyone have any tips for drilling out the holes in the folding stock... after the stock is attached to the gun? Edited October 24, 2012 by swmand4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthChridan[TK] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 For drilling the holes in the folding stock I used a drill in the same size of the holes from the folding stock..I drilled 1 cm deep..but be careful ...and at my gun the folding stock was also attached Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted October 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 For drilling the holes in the folding stock I used a drill in the same size of the holes from the folding stock..I drilled 1 cm deep..but be careful ...and at my gun the folding stock was also attached Was your scope also attached? Did you use a drill press? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 I went ahead and drilled down the holes in the folding stock using a 7/16" drill bit, to a depth of about 1cm. For the half-covered hole, I used a smaller bit to get the bulk of it and a hobby knife to get the rest. Still needs some work, and a little Green Stuff to fix a couple mistakes. The holes are not centered because I foolishly used the light indentations on the mold as a guide. Oh well, I stopped caring about mistakes the moment I decided I would eventually do a pipe build. I also started cutting out the indentation area. This didn't go very well. I was trying to drill a few holes and get the rest with a hobby knife, but after the drill bit broke and got stuck in the resin I've decided to just buy a Dremel and cutting bits. I'll get my money's worth, easy. Next I'll find a bead to use on the magazine and get some sand paper to round out the edges. I will also sand down the flat side of the magazine to eliminate the wood-like texture. Stay tuned... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted October 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 Finished cutting out the indent thingy in the folding stock. Not as good looking as I would like, but I think the black paint will cover the imperfections. The broken drill bit was a pain to extract... thought for sure I would crack the resin. I rounded the corners of the magazine and gave the straight edges a bit of bevel. I also sanded down the side of the magazine to reduce the "wood grain" look. Really wishing I'd done some of this stuff before painting and/or gluing. Live and learn, right? Now, a very important question. I want to add the bead to the side of the magazine, but the inside of it is hollow... what's the best way to add the bead now that the pieces are glued together? If it were solid, I would just drill into it and drop a ball bearing into the hole, but I can't do that. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aosen[TK] Posted October 28, 2012 Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 For the bead I used the cut off end of a plastic missile that came with a Iron Man action figure I had laying around. Just glued it on to the surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted November 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 Here's the solution I came up with for the bead. I bought a #4 round head screw and filled in the screw driver slot with Green Stuff. It's not perfect and doesn't sit recessed, but it's the best I can do now that the magazine is glued into the receiver. I toyed with the idea of digging a little around the screw head to make it look recessed, but ditched the idea after seeing that it doesn't sit flush with the resin (slight return edge). One thing I'm not happy about is that the paint job is inconsistent now. There places where you can see the tape lines from masking off certain areas when I resprayed the magazine and folding stock. I'm thinking I can make it "invisible" by adding some weathering in those areas to hide the flaws. Screw with green stuff: Painted: Painted folding stock drilled down holes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-50175[TK] Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 (edited) UPDATE: I saw some real Sterling Pictures and the holes are not drilled trough - my question is answered! Thanks! Hi, why didn´t you drill the holes in the folding stock completely trough the whole part? Should it be drilled trough completely when you do it before you clue it together? And the holes in the barrel too so they match with those in the folding stock? It should be even easier to drill trough the stock and the barrel at one time if they are already clued together... For a real working gun it might be like that otherwise what is the function of those holes on the bottom? Marc Edited July 29, 2013 by darth-kerche-1975 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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