Mac Bragg Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 Thought I'd start a build thread as well. Feel free to post any "Before you cut that..." suggestions. What you get in the box Pretty much all you need. With the 4 teeth per side, it looks like ANH Stunt. Nice touch including a second set of "ears". I recently rebuilt an IN helmet ( http://www.imperialo...php?f=14&t=1667 ) - getting this sort of part to fit neatly is a bit of a challenge. Laying out some trim guides After our best buddy Mr. Dremel went to work with a ctuoff wheel attachement. The left side has been given a couple of quick passes with some 80 grit on a sanding block, the right still raw after cutting. About an hour of more work with the cutoff wheel, various rat-tail files and finishing with 80 and 110 grit paper. You'll notice very quickly that just like the originals, they are not symmetrical so don't freak out if each side looks a bit different from the other. Despite the sunny apperance, it was snowing earliler in the day (the Seattle area had snow somewhere 12 out of the previous 15 days!). At this point my fingers were getting numb so time to quit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anphrax[TK] Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 Be careful with drilling the mic tip holes as they are the thinnest part of the helmet! I've been building my first set and was warned about it! ATA is a really great set of armor! Are you going to ECCC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Bragg Posted March 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 Thanks for the tip. Thinking I'll take some of the stuff I just cut off and perhaps glue in some reinforcing plates on the back of the mounting areas then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anphrax[TK] Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 I'm not sure that reinforcing it that way would help but you might try it. I mainly meant just be careful "drilling" the holes for the mic tips and when you pick up and put on the bucket just be careful with that area... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Bragg Posted March 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 (edited) Day 2 - A pleasant 60 degrees, but not so pleasant cutting the the main "Head" part. I ran some tape across the mold line to guide the forehead cut, and still left some extra just in case The right side had the best lines for the "ear" so I cut a template And swapped it on the left side Rare Earth Magnets = "Not just for breakfast anymore!" And the same for the lower half of the cut Test fitting requires use of clamps, as there are too many places to keep in alignment by hand alone. I matched up the corners of the eyes and the cheek tubes However, viewed from the front you can see the mold line that I used as my cut giude is not straight across I checked each eye to get the same distance between the top corner and the edge of the top piece The width between the eyes and bottom on the rubber strip really needs to be even all the way across, being almost center of the face it's one of the first things a person will look at. The rubber strip is wide enough to go straight across and even things out. I'm thinking of trimming the right side to make the bottom edge of the strip more paralell to the top of the trapezoid (like on the right side) Suggestions before I go any further? Also, would the "ANH (Stunt and Hero)" forum be more appropiate for this thread? Edited March 25, 2012 by Mac Bragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kybackpacker[TK] Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 I am building this same helmet currently and am using this thread since I am about a day behind you. You think it is necessary to have a caliper for building this out? Looking forward to your progress. Corey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anphrax[TK] Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Have you tried finding anyone in your local garrison that you can do an armor party with or something? It is kind of hard to tell where you need to cut and that kind of stuff in pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK_LEPER Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) I don't usually work with the dremmel until I get closer to the end. Just take a utility knife and run it lightly along you're cut lines... It should snap right off after scoring it. Leaves nice clean lines, and will only require a bit of sanding to finish it off. Also, put the brow trim on (during assembly) to make sure you get a good fit. I wouldn't trim anything else until you get the ears going. Once you have those lined up, you can just mark what needs further trimming. Good luck! P.S. If it helps any? Here are some of my images from my SiMan Helmet, and a VT Helmet build. Edited March 27, 2012 by TK 4702 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-4510[TK] Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Here's my build of an TE2 helmet, very much the same helmet. You definitely want the brow trim on when lining up the cap n back with the faceplate. You wont be able to get the trim on later if you rivet everything together now withiout the trim. http://trooperbay.com/videos/videos-2/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kybackpacker[TK] Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Thanks for the awesome links! Those will come in handy as I work on my build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 (edited) Having the brow trim in is an absolute necessity. It's just me but is that brow line REALLY high? For the exception of the "move along" sandie, most brow lines are only about1/4-1/2 inch There are a lot of ATA builds on the build section here. Check them out! Edited March 28, 2012 by gazmosis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HockeyTrooper[TK] Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 For reinforcement in the mic tip area you can do the equivalent of paper mache. I used glue on some extra cloth strips I had around to reinforce the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Bragg Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 (edited) Been a few weeks of work, bad weather, etc. so didn't make much progress until this afternoon. Got the face cleaned up and have the front and back attached - Thanks to Wyatt (TK-4205) for the tip of adding an addtional screw under the forehead rubber strip to hold everything in place once you have made a decision. Stopped in to my local hobby shop to get the French Blue and some gloss gray, and found out they're shutting down. The owner has been trying to sell it for several years, but I guess things have dropped off to where they can't keep the doors open. Now it will be a half hour drive to the big chain shop. Support your local small businesses! Starting on the second set of ears, I wasn't happy with the way the first set turned out. Is this an acceptable amount of "gap" over the cheek tube? Edited May 9, 2012 by Mac Bragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anphrax[TK] Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 Don't worry about having gaps there...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Bragg Posted June 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 (edited) Sorry about the long gap between posts. Real Life decided to intervene. Basically, finished up fitting and trimming so it was ready to start painting. Combinations of brushed, airbrushed, Sharpie, and Tamiya "paint pen" for the authentic "hand done" markings. Gray areas first, then a fine point Sharpie to lay out guidelines. Then gloss black with a very fine brush to fill in to the desired thickness. Cut, stick, and spray for the tube stripes. Made a template out of some box card and used it to cut the lens to a TIGHT friction fit. A notch on each side that fits over one of the ear screws, and a matching hole for the brow bolt. A very tight fit to the eyes I will probably get a replacement screw that's about 1/8" longer so I can put a nut over the lens as well. Also trimthe bottom of the lens to provide some more room over the nose. So, I need to add the ear stipes, neck edging, and third ear screws. Then trim the interior screws and pad as needed. Edited June 28, 2012 by Mac Bragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Potty Meister Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 looks great! you've given me inspiration for the tube stripes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Bragg Posted July 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 Started on the main armor today. Trimmed up the arm parts Hint for others just starting a build or thinking about it: No two parts are the exact same shape, even "Left" and "Right". Don't try and make them match each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Bragg Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Just about a year to the day between start and finish. Approved: Thanks to everyone who have posted their "How I Did It" pictures and suggestions, I would not have been able to get this finished to such a high level of accuracy without the information available here. Like all armor, we're tracking down the "armor bites" and correcting as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravenwood[TK] Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Mice job Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuteman Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Looking good so far, even though you have not the perfect Trooper proportions. Did you shim the sides? More photos from all 4 directions would be nice. I would try to find a way to keep the shoulder bells in place, as a first step shorten the strap between shoulder bells and the chest-back connection. Do your weapon laws force you to wear this red pin on the E-11´s muzzle? Besides I would recommend to change this hasbro blaster for a more accurate blaster like the doopydoos, the DVH-kit or an hyperfirm blaster. Yours looks like a children´s toy ( what it actually is). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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