vicsouders Posted October 16, 2010 Report Posted October 16, 2010 So, I’ve been on this forum for about a year, read every build thread and had my ATA armor for about nine months. I decided it’s time to get off my butt and get this kit finished! This is my first “I need help!†post. Years ago I was a pretty serious bodybuilder. Today, after not training for 10 years, I’m in terrible shape (about 230 with a 38†waist). After trimming pieces, I think I’m going to have to shim EVERYTHING! The armor biceps are about 14 inches. Mine (hanging and un-flexed) are 17. Don’t even get me going on the thighs…I expected to shim the waist (and start working out again soon ), but I didn’t give a thought to the biceps and forearms. Has anyone good pictures of their bicep shimming? Heck, for that matter, how about thighs, calves and anything else? Thanks in advance! Quote
Femtrooper Julie[501st] Posted October 16, 2010 Report Posted October 16, 2010 Get to work trooper! I did not have to shim my armor, but it would seem pretty straightforward...maybe your local garrison can help? Quote
tkrestonva[TK] Posted October 16, 2010 Report Posted October 16, 2010 Wow, 14 inches is really all the room you get inside the biceps!?! I'm a recreational bodybuilder. On my old FX kit, I had to shim my biceps, forearms, and calves - not the case with my new AM kit . Some tips: 1. Use the same type of plastic that your kit is made out of. If you can get some HIPS strips from ATA, that would be perfect. Of course you'll have to sand and paint them as well to match your kit. 2. When determing how wide to make your parts, use your flexed measurements. No point in getting your kit perfectly fitted to your unflexed measurements if it flies apart when you flex - or is so tight that it's impossible (not to mention exceedingly uncomfortable) to move or even bend your arms. More room is almost always better than less. 3. Shim the seam that is the least visible from the front. For example, on the thighs you'll want to put the shim in the back, and make the front as close to screen-accurate (20mm overlay strip) as possible. For the biceps, shim the inside seam, i.e. the seam that is closest to your body. 4. As for the waist, you could shim that as well - or you can use getting into an unshimmed kit as motivation for getting back that nice "V" shaped taper that is common to bodybuilders. Think of it like you would the 2 - 3 month precontest phase prior to a show. Quote
firebladejedi[TK] Posted October 16, 2010 Report Posted October 16, 2010 Maybe it would be better to have purchased a set made for the larger trooper… AM or RT Mod springs to mind. Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted October 16, 2010 Report Posted October 16, 2010 then of course there's always the franken kit. mix and match the parts you need to fit your body type. (had to post this so close to harvest) Quote
vicsouders Posted October 16, 2010 Author Report Posted October 16, 2010 Maybe it would be better to have purchased a set made for the larger trooper… AM or RT Mod springs to mind. Little late for that Mark, but thanks. Brian, that's what I was thinking too. I could probably get down to a 34" waist in a few months of hard work. Vern, I was thinking that also...I might have to see what pieces RT has laying around. Quote
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