Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Here’s my T-21 blaster tutorial. There hasn’t really been many clear T-21 tutorials, so I thought I would document my build and share it with the Empire!

 

Keep in mind that this is not a “millimeter” exact replica, it’s the best I could make using many reference photos of actual Lewis guns, screenshots from ANH, and scaling all of the photos in Photoshop to create a template. I preferred not to use photos of T-21’s since most are interpretations, or cast copies of a real Lewis anyways. For any given part, I would gather at least 3 images, and then scale them in Photoshop to the same scale, and take the measurements from inside the software.

 

Don’t worry about getting every measurement and detail exact. The fact is, only real enthusiasts will know you’re “an eighth of an inch off here”, the average person will know it’s a BFG blaster, so just get on with it. That being said, if you want to go all the way and add every wire and greeblie, go for it. Interpret this template and tutorial as you wish and modify your build to suit your needs. Enjoy the build!

 

I had to make substitutions for many materials, since not everything is available locally. Always look around the house and see what you can find. The fact is, if we all had machine shops with lathes and CNC machines, making props would be much easier. But part of the fun is sourcing “found” parts and supplies you can use, that’s the SW tradition!

 

I feel that this is a fairly accurate trooping blaster. If anyone has any more detailed measurements, please feel free to share them so that we can develop a more detailed resource for the T-21 blaster.

 

With that out of the way, let’s get started! First off is a materials list.

 

Materials

3/4 “ inch thick wood (I used pine shelving)for the main body / receiver

3/8” inch thick wood for the stock (I couldn’t find any, so I used ¼”)

3.5” diameter PVC pipe for the main barrel (I used 3” “Cell core” ABS pipe, which has an outer diameter of approx 3.5”)

3.5” connector (you will cut rings from this)

2.5” diameter PVC pipe for the barrel tip (I couldn’t find any locally, so I took some 3” PVC and cut it down to 2 7/8” diameter)

4” corrugated drain tubing for the barrel (you can use D profile adhesive rubber trim for car doors for more accuracy)

Sheet styrene for details (I used 2mm and 1.5mm a lot)

1.25” piping (small section for the sight)

2” PVC piping (for the chamber or whatever you call it that holds the bullets in the main body / receiver )

 

Tools

Jig saw / scroll saw

Saw for cutting large sections / straight lines

Dremel

Files

Sandpaper

Clamps (spring clamps like you used for armor)

Rivet gun / rivets (1/8”)

Craft / exacto knife

 

Adhesives, etc.

E-6000

Wood glue

Plastic weld (styrene glue)

Bondo

Various screws / bolts (use what you have around the house)

Krylon primer

Krylon satin black

Dark brown for the stock

Gold or silver for the cooling vents

Any other paints you want to weather the blaster (silver, gunmetal, bronze, etc..)

 

 

To start, you can use this T-21 template I've created here:

 

http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=10313&st=0&p=130310&hl=blaster%20template&fromsearch=1entry130310

 

Print it out full size (spread them over several sheets if you need to).

 

My first issue was creating the front part of the barrel tip. Based on some measurements, it's approx 2.75" to 2 and 7/8" in diameter. i couldn't find anything, so I took some 3" PVC, cut about and inch from the length, and glued it back together.

4580064219_31d14675e6.jpg

 

I've glued, clamped and even rivetted the pipe along the seam to hold the right shape. The rivets are countersunk so bondo will hide them.

4580064511_704fcce37d.jpg

 

Here, I've transferred the template drawing to my 3/4" thick wood

4580695628_e5cf5b4ed9.jpg

 

20 mins later with a jig saw yielded this

4580696162_7b352bc67b.jpg

 

I cut the wood to proper inner diameter to fit snug inside the ABS barrel pipe

4580696400_0615d37f98.jpg

 

Rough layout of the current parts, use the measurements from the template to cut the drain tube and barrel to size

4580696632_98d671b012.jpg

 

Cutting the 2 sides for the butt stock from the 3/8" or 1/4" wood

4580066195_14e6fe6a05.jpg

 

see how they line up, if it's not right - trim them

4580066511_6577bb6735.jpg

 

Glue and clamp the stock halves to the main wood piece

4580068265_58e8a6673c.jpg

4580068601_4155e8a02c.jpg

 

Transfer the template to the wood for the feed plate thing (top part - sorry, I'm not a gunsmith so I don't know the names)

4580066827_2324b9fbc7.jpg

 

This extra layer stacks on top of the first piece

4580067145_86219e9f01.jpg

 

This last part stacks on top of the previous 2. The rear sight will mount to this

4580698220_8d91bac941.jpg

 

Use some good old wood glue and clamp it shut

4580067757_cd9b167b1a.jpg

4580698912_eb2f528987.jpg

4580699798_32c95bdb89.jpg

 

Here, I've transferred the feed plate details to sheet styrene. these will be cut out and glued on top

4580069749_a1331cbacd.jpg

 

Test it. the part I'm pointing to (curved flipping thing) will be painted separately and glued later

4580070251_cffc3159e4.jpg

 

The middle post thing is what the ammo drum sits on. I've just used a PVC end cap

4580070751_08f0f0c8f2.jpg

 

Glueing the styrene to the wood with E6000

4580070987_3cb56a875e.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've used 2" PVC for the main receiver section where the chamber is.

4580070495_4db543b4f6.jpg

 

I've drawn some parallel lines down the length of the 2" pipe. I'll glue the sides of the pipe onto the receiver so that it looks like the chamber is really "part" of the wood.

4580071243_e91ec36bb8.jpg

 

To draw the lines, simply lay the pipe on a flat surface and hold it up against a piece of wood to draw the lines

4580702602_ee72c24cd1.jpg

 

Discard the scraps

4580071745_3bd32e7ac9.jpg

 

This is where the pipe will be glued. You can see that the pipe meets the surface of the stock almost perfectly.

4580071977_39319cbc73.jpg

 

I've cut a small section of the pipe at the front so that it will be easier to assemble the cooling fins

4580072213_0eb5baf377.jpg

 

I've cut out the ejection port. I simply glued a section of pipe inside the port, and elevated it slightly with scrap plastic. I'll paint this silver later.

4580072429_22643a2216.jpg

 

Here's the cooling fin section, I've drawn a circle using the barrel profile. Cut it out and glue it to the pipe section

4580703800_53f5d2a3a4.jpg

4580072923_3dc8a45273.jpg

 

I've cut out 10 cooling fins from sheet styrene, 5 fins per side. Glue them in place with Plastic weld

4580073373_edba8eb0a6.jpg

4580074161_8b1fdf27b8.jpg

4580705892_8b415d3f0f.jpg

 

Just a dry mockup (not glued / screwed in place yet)

4580706456_1fece2b583.jpg

 

I forgot to cut out the trigger hole, so a little jig saw action and Dremel action will clean it up

4580706676_d87f5350e6.jpg

 

I started rounding the edges of the stock. I didn't have any fancy tools so I used... a knife. Seriously, I just whittled the edges to get the rough shape, used a file to clean it up, Dremeled a bit, then sanded it smooth.

4580075749_157db83c08.jpg

 

Here's a pic of the sanded stock, as well as some greeblies. This will work for the tube that's inside the real stock which is some kind of container and screw top brush which i assume is for gun oil or something. I used some sprinkler tuning parts, a short threaded tube and a couple end caps.

4580076325_6b4dbb764c.jpg

 

One area I didn't get quite right was the area just behind the rear sight. It should extend from the stock to just below the sight. I just glue a small block of wood here and bondo it later

4580076581_0789a62a11.jpg

 

I created the receiver detail by transferring the template drawings to sheet styrene of various thicknesses.

4580076791_09852985f0.jpg

 

Adding more detail. Gluing with Plastic Weld

4580077061_db63eae349.jpg

 

Finished receiver details. I glued them to the wood using E6000

4580077279_869d58ff89.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've notched the back where the "curvy" details are. Just used a cone shaped bit on the Dremel to carve it out

4580078033_50eb09be18.jpg

 

I cut panels of styene to glue to both sides of this half circle part. One side has a flat knob / dial, the other is a screw / rivet

4580078277_ef714eb8c4.jpg

 

Glued in place using E6000

4580711232_8daf199a52.jpg

 

Added rivet detail and Dremeled the contours

4580711980_11cff2e8b6.jpg

 

I glued inner shims inside the main barrel, which allows the smaller barrel tip to fit snugly inside and centered

4580710236_4f0e0e1dc3.jpg

4580082631_b3ea790866.jpg

 

For the taper from the main barrel to the barrel tip, I found lots of solutions. Bubble tea cups, slurpee cups, flower pots, funnels, etc.. Just use what you can find. I convinced my wife to sacrifice a plastic picnic glass - for the greater good of the Empire! :)

4580709726_788486b780.jpg

 

Marking the line indicating where to cut the cup in half by placing the smaller barrel tip inside the main barrel.

4580710000_fe891d8b54.jpg

 

I glued a ring part way down the smaller barrel so that the taper will stay concentric. I ran a bead of construction adhesive around the barrel so that when the taper is pressed into place, it will remain secure

4580714018_1c87f25820.jpg

 

Test fit of the smaller barrel inside the main barrel with taper in place

4580710460_a504dcb1ac.jpg

 

This step is for later (electronics) but I wanted to feed the wires through the chamber pipes before they were glued in place

4580079453_afa9f01547.jpg

 

Chamber pipes glued in place

4580079737_eebb74a46f.jpg

 

This outer connector for the 3" ABS pipe will be cut to create flanges for the main barrel

4580080531_3a58a77729.jpg

 

Feed plate is screwed and glued in place. I used screws in "visible" locations, and areas where people wouldn't see them (inside the drum post, under the rear sight, etc.) I also applied glue to both surfaces before assembling

4580712234_72395153ce.jpg

 

Feed plate assembled

4580081353_dd3b262504.jpg

 

Simple ring cut from PVC for the smaller barrel tip

4580083147_ac71c93dc9.jpg

 

I cut some grip panels from wood, sanded the edges. I won't glue them in place until after the blaster is painted, to make them brown.

4580714794_588d3fccb7.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rear sight supports cut from sheet styrene

4580715272_c5370a9473.jpg

 

Glued and clamped. The H shaped frame next to the supports is the sight itself, made from square styrene tubing

4580084789_7ea1f9158c.jpg

 

The adjustment dial is made from a long 3/16" rivet, a washer and 3 Canadian dimes glued together. :)

4580716090_227bc3facf.jpg

 

Dry fit

4580716362_bb745e39a8.jpg

 

Glued into place. You can make it permanent or movable. Mine pivots on a long chicago bolt

4580085551_f6191b7f67.jpg

 

Rear sight cover cut from a section of black ABS

4580716876_e51a87015a.jpg

 

Cut the notch, drilled a center hold, sanded the surface

4580717090_be542c4b0f.jpg

 

Insert glued under the cover (will paint it silver inside later)

4580086231_7bc0ea6c70.jpg

 

Front and side profiles glued into place

4580086467_751313f931.jpg

 

Cut some brackets from a flat aluminum bar. I'll hot glue these inside.

4580717860_d66268f1d9.jpg

4580087005_283638ccaf.jpg

 

Filled the inside to make it more solid

4580718562_c55675ef02.jpg

 

Dry fit of rear sight cover

4580087233_61d49372f4.jpg

 

Front sight detail. I just drew this by eyeballing reference images.

4580718786_3e0ef29f35.jpg

 

Cut it out

4580719036_403ec7001e.jpg

 

Screwed and glued into place. I added a "bolt" detail using a rivet, I slotted it with a Dremel. Didn't want to use a real screw in case I split the wood

4580719516_853f9abbe5.jpg

 

Lining things up. Who likes Spam? :)

4580088655_3020be524e.jpg

 

Back to that round detail, added the knob using a strip of wood and a screw

4580088903_c14ff69c3d.jpg

 

I'll fill the hole with Bondo later

4580720220_4fa99b61f2.jpg

 

Opposite side is a screw, also bondoed later

4580089437_d1b3419721.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The rear stock lube container area needed the holes enlarged, so I used a drill with a Uni-bit

4580720956_b509a696b1.jpg

 

Test fit with sprinkler parts

4580090487_70509ef169.jpg

4580090171_fca2788383.jpg

 

I created "knurled" grip marks with a file, just eyeballed the cross hatching

4580095135_bc416e6875.jpg

 

Starting to bondo various gaps, etc

4580090723_a0046eb151.jpg

4580091393_0e87cbb778.jpg

4580101061_45609fa67d.jpg

4580092415_0834291d2e.jpg

 

I created seams with a flat chisel

4580101331_db5516c93a.jpg

 

Bondo the transition for the barrel

4580721928_b1dc0ec05f.jpg

 

Starting to primer parts. Before painting, I'll sand the parts and wash the parts to remove oils, and if I can't submerse the part in water, I at least wipe it with alcohol, let it dry and use a tack cloth to remove dust before painting.

Barrel primered

4580091901_ca0dcc3010.jpg

 

Satin black Krylon

4580092145_c785a33613.jpg

 

While the paint was drying, I assembled the ribbed section using the drain pipe, cut to the same diameter as the main barrel. I used 14" zip ties to attach the drain pipe

4580723640_563cecfe15.jpg

4580724250_3c61fa5852.jpg

 

Oh yeah...

4580724538_f9172b3700.jpg

 

Main barrel locks onto the receiver via a retention bolt

4580725762_64a68f11f2.jpg

 

Rear sight assembled using a chicago bolt. the sight will "lock" into place using a small magnet

4580725018_26577116e9.jpg

4580725268_cfeba703cd.jpg

 

The sight stops on the little block of wood I added, I will blend it in with Bondo

4580725550_82728fa6f3.jpg

4580726600_327e17a062.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Primering parts

4580726898_792f9d6357.jpg

4580096247_1c578f8598.jpg

4580727390_c05836f2b5.jpg

4580096725_ab83d66d5d.jpg

4581987296_ee76dc8117.jpg

 

Primer is good a revealing imperfections. Decided to fix a few spots with bondo before another coat of primer

4581359703_a54be17da3.jpg

 

Silver. I will weather these later

4580728786_765b6854de.jpg

 

Primered the grips and sprayed them dark brown

4580729070_bce0c938a3.jpg

 

Painted the cooling fins gold

4580729330_cca219244b.jpg

 

Test fit

4580099347_9afd712d3f.jpg

 

I used a 3" to 2" taper to create an inner bezel for the barrel tip. Some Dremel-fu created the shape I needed

4580099699_cf3a9396ba.jpg

4580100237_bf7bd65a79.jpg

4580100477_f4348e7e4d.jpg

 

Internal view of the electronic for the trigger

4580100791_0388c3231e.jpg

 

After painting the black, i decided to dust on a few light coats of gunmetal metallic

4581360175_e4bb6e599b.jpg

4581990604_668537f9b6.jpg

 

Masked off the stock and painted it brown

4581991398_4bb519e0a6.jpg

4581361881_00068e1fdd.jpg

 

Aker amp disassembled so that I can configure the speaker and board to fit inside

4581992964_c9a2db97f3.jpg

 

Trigger half finished. You can see the internal wires threaded through the receiver. You can also see the paint detail

4581363543_71a80f9c95.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More to come! Currently working on the internal structure for the speakers and electronics.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wow! nice work :D

 

also if you don't want to sacrifice your aker amp i can hook you up with my electronics source, 20 watt amp kits for around 10$ shipped (you just need to solder all the components together) and they work great

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow nice work! I'm wanting a T-21 to carry, but there doesn't seem to be many places that make them. If you decide you are going to make several of these, put my in line as your first customer!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow! Nice guide terry. You must have a really nice shop going to be able to make all those detailed cuts.

For the guys who have access to some good tools your guide is extremely detailed as usual from you.

 

Thanks panda for sharing your tutorials with us.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, great job man! Very clean lines... I'm impressed! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome job Terry! I can't wait to see the finished product!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, glad you like it! I've moved this to the Blasters forum, where it should be. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow! Nice guide terry. You must have a really nice shop going to be able to make all those detailed cuts.

For the guys who have access to some good tools your guide is extremely detailed as usual from you.

 

Thanks panda for sharing your tutorials with us.

 

Thanks Adam. Actually, I didn't use much in the way of power tools. I used a hacksaw and a mitre box for the PVC / ABS cuts, I just drew guide lines and cut carefully. I use a cordless drill a lot, and do a lot of "Dremel-fu", but it's a lot of filing, and hand sanding mostly.

 

The styrene was cut mostly with score and snap method, or scissors. Just shows that you can do a lot with little!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wow! nice work :D

 

also if you don't want to sacrifice your aker amp i can hook you up with my electronics source, 20 watt amp kits for around 10$ shipped (you just need to solder all the components together) and they work great

 

Thanks Mason for the offer! I already disassembled and soldered up the Aker amp for this blaster. I used your tips from that other post I made asking about how to wire it up and it works, and it's LOUD! :D Just the way I like it!

 

I already bought another Aker amp from Jim for trooping use, so I don't mind using this one for the blaster.

 

Thanks again!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I likies! What sound chip do you plan to use with the amp?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One of the greatest threads i have seen for a long time.A true labour of love this one Panda.had you planed from the start to add so much detail or did the project suck you right in.Once again fantastic blow by blow account,thanks for sharing. :salute:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great attention to detail! While I'm no expert on the T-21, it sure looks very, very bada$$. I'm looking forward to your weathering!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haven't updated this in a while, but I finally got a chance to weather the blaster and assemble the final parts.

 

After the previous paint work (see thread) I did a black wash and sponged off the excess, so that the back filled all the nooks and crannies.

 

5073365631_d7d6e6005a_z.jpg

 

After that came some highlight weathering using silver dry brushing, along with fake "chips" in the paint.

 

I glued on the cooling fins, and weathered them using silver, bronze and black. I have also assembled the rear sight.

5073963812_57319fafc7.jpg

 

Close up of the front sight cover and cooling fins

5073368655_bee8b14c4b.jpg

 

Rear view of sight in action!

5073369657_e93f50d399.jpg

5073966538_3a1e41f72a.jpg

 

Close up of front sight cover weathered

5073371171_5529fcc35c.jpg

 

Close up of front sight. I also added 2 WWII replica Enfield slings like the original ones used in ANH.

5073377015_75171f8180.jpg

5073372013_193f450b09.jpg

 

Left side receiver view

5073372747_ca4737299b.jpg

5073969856_9626066ef1.jpg

 

I weathered the side grip panels and the stock with a combination of black, burnt umber and burnt sienna acrylics. Before applying the paint, I bashed the stock with a screwdriver hand and head from various angles to create "dents" and crevices for the black paint to sit. Then highlighted it with the lighter colors.

5073374597_6e2e4fb44a.jpg

 

I have added the greeblies for the "gun lube" cap and reservoir. I know the rear sling mount is the wrong one, but I'll use this one for now until I can find a more screen accurate version.

5073375369_27606963d6.jpg

 

Completed T-21

5073376307_5395b12442_z.jpg

5073366545_35e615d70d_z.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also just did a cool electronics upgrade to the T-21. Thought I would attach it here so that the info is in one thread.

 

Video

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×