SolderMaster Posted March 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 Ok, I made a rail at work, but I need to make another. First one is a little short for my liking. I did remove the rubber hex heads for real ones tho! I think it looks pretty good! For a rookie! Barrel time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirDenzington89 Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 Nice work on that E-11! Most Impressive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 Got word from Rob today that my armor should be here in 2 weeks. Update on the HF... I bored out the barrel... and inserted a piece of plastic tubing for a barrel effect. Then, I smoothed down the area where the scope rail was with my Dremel, and layed down some epoxy. Once it cures, I'll sand it down smoothe. Then I grabbed the scope and Dremeled it. I need to find some lenses for the scope and grab some ScreenTight T-Tracks....I started removing the popsicle stick looking ones...it's a pain in the butt but should look much better when done. Gonna tackle the other crappy T-tracks tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 The last pic from my last post showed one of the t-tracks removed. I have since removed the remaining "popsicle stick" looking ones. I have replced them with the Screen Tight ones I made. The white you will see is 1C Hysol from Loctite, an epoxy which is abundant at work, was used to smoothe the areas between the t-tracks and where the HF scope rail was. I will sand it to roughen the surface and paint with a light coat of satin black to tie it all together. Here's where I'm at with it... I have my scope rail primed and drying. I also need to find something to use for the scope lenses. Almost done. Armor will be here in a week or so! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 Almost finished with the blaster. These next few pics will show the completed T-Track mod, scope mod, barrel mod, and new scope rail. I will have to fix the scope due to the crosshairs I put in shifted while the glue set. It's not that big of deal but it is noticeable. It still needs another coat of satin black and touch ups including the ejection port. But overall, I'm pretty happy with it... Still a few things to tidy up, but what do you all think. What should I change, add, take off, etc. I value your thoughts and advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkrestonva[TK] Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 Looks great! Here I thought the stock Hyperfirm was awesome, that takes it to another level. Quick question: One of the selling points on the hyperfirm is it's indestructibility - you could throw the thing out of a moving car and not break it. How is the required handling care affected by the mods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 Looks great! Here I thought the stock Hyperfirm was awesome, that takes it to another level. Quick question: One of the selling points on the hyperfirm is it's indestructibility - you could throw the thing out of a moving car and not break it. How is the required handling care affected by the mods? Ohhh, great question, Brian. Well, thinking about that and if I left the scope rail the way it is, it wouldn't last maybe 2 drops. It is held on by epoxy. Also, I wasn't very happy with it to begin with. So, I stopped at good 'ol Menards after work today for a piece of 3/4" X 3' piece of Plat Steel. SKU# 2279075. This will give me the sturdiness I'm looking for and this, once cut and formed, will be screwed down to the blaster. I viewed many ways of installing the scope rail and I couldn't decide what was best. The other mods are solid, however, I'm not going to test how many times I can chuck it up in the air and let it drop before it breaks...lol I have removed the scope rail and will be searching for good shots as to how it was attached in the films... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2010 Except for the mag, I'm finished with my Hyperfirm ANH E-11. Mods included 3 hex screws, boring barrel and adding plastic tube, scope lenses and crosshairs, D-ring, removal of "popsicle stick" t-tracks replacing with Screen Tight ones, carving out front sight, removing scope rail and replacing with steel one. The last thing I need to do is replace the magazine. Other than that, I added a piece of plastic and painted the ejection port and also painted behind the trigger guard. I added a few silver highlights to appear as scratches...What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkrestonva[TK] Posted March 15, 2010 Report Share Posted March 15, 2010 Looks real nice - those mods are definitely going on my to-do-list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 The armor has arrived!! I can't wait to get started!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daetrin[Admin] Posted March 19, 2010 Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 I'm still floored by the hyperfirm pimping. If you and Billy Haggis ever had kids...oy! I bet your RT will be rocking given your mad skillz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 I'm still floored by the hyperfirm pimping. If you and Billy Haggis ever had kids...oy! I bet your RT will be rocking given your mad skillz WOW! Thank you, Paul! That means alot coming from the creator! I just picked up an M40 scope, too!!! Can a Hyperfirm be over-pimped? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daetrin[Admin] Posted March 19, 2010 Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 Honestly, I'd love to see the blaster pix copied out to a HOWTO thread if you're open to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 Honestly, I'd love to see the blaster pix copied out to a HOWTO thread if you're open to it. Actually, I was going to do that as soon as I get the M40 scope and the more accurate mag. Then, I'll post a HOW TO thread on what I did and used. I'm happy you approve! Although, the mods will affect the "indestructable" aspect of the Hyperfirm, I feel they really make it that much more accurate and enjoyable to look at.....now....do I put some cooling wires on too?....I think I have the perfect cord for that....muahahah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry19D Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 As a proud owner of a "stock" Hyperfirm E-11, I can attest to its sturdiness. However, as solid as it is, its casting still does lack some finesse in the detailing. Your mods make this blaster look downright deadly! I just might detail-up my Hyperfirm when you post up your how-to. Fabulous work! I'm waiting with anticipation to see your RT-MOD build. I, too, have an RT suit and love it, so it'll be great to see another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EOTK Posted March 23, 2010 Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 Hey SolderMaster--your pimped out Hyperfirm looks great! Congrats on getting the armor too, man--I've been waiting to see when you got yours. (I may be up next in the queue for plastic from Canada... ) Anyways, can't wait to see what you do your build. I thought you said in another post that you bought the inner drop boxes from kwdesigns, but I couldn't tell if your RT set came with them too. Could you confirm? Also, on the last photo you posted of the pieces spread out on the floor, are those finishing strips in the lower right corner? If so, did you have to special order butt-joined pieces with strips--or is that how the kit comes? Thanks, dude. Good luck with the armor build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 Hey SolderMaster--your pimped out Hyperfirm looks great! Congrats on getting the armor too, man--I've been waiting to see when you got yours. (I may be up next in the queue for plastic from Canada... ) Anyways, can't wait to see what you do your build. I thought you said in another post that you bought the inner drop boxes from kwdesigns, but I couldn't tell if your RT set came with them too. Could you confirm? Also, on the last photo you posted of the pieces spread out on the floor, are those finishing strips in the lower right corner? If so, did you have to special order butt-joined pieces with strips--or is that how the kit comes? Thanks, dude. Good luck with the armor build! Yes, to my suprise, the RT came with inner drop boxes. I guess I'll keep the ones from kwdesigns for spares in case I lose one. Yes, those are finishing strips for the ANH style. I asked Rob if they came with them and he said that he would throw them in no extra charge. What a guy! The kit came with the over lapping style parts. I'm still new to all this armor so...does that mean I don't need the finishing strips? Little confused about that. Do I put the strips over the natural joint of the armor? I'll post pics of my forearms and bicepts I assembled last night after dinner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EOTK Posted March 23, 2010 Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 Yes, to my suprise, the RT came with inner drop boxes. I guess I'll keep the ones from kwdesigns for spares in case I lose one. Cool--thanks for the info on the drop boxes, I was just about to order a set. :/ Maybe you could sell them in the Imperial Commisary--not like the inner boxes are likely to wear out. Yes, those are finishing strips for the ANH style. I asked Rob if they came with them and he said that he would throw them in no extra charge. What a guy! The kit came with the over lapping style parts. I'm still new to all this armor so...does that mean I don't need the finishing strips? Little confused about that. Do I put the strips over the natural joint of the armor? I'll post pics of my forearms and bicepts I assembled last night after dinner. Rob *is* really great to deal with. I didn't think to ask him for finishing strips when I placed the order, but I was sort of discouraged by the idea when I thought about what I'd have to do to make them work. AFAIK, it's for the four arm and four leg pieces. You'd have to trim the front seams so that they butt up against each other. Stukatrooper used plastic weld to join his together--check out page 2 of his Flickr set: Since the RT armor is meant to overlap, I'm assuming that you'd have to use a heat gun to make the pieces lie flat so you could weld them together. Then the finishing strip is glued on top. Troopermaster gave measurements for the widths of the strips in the accuracy thread from the tricks and tips section (post #41 if my link is fubared): http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=7713&st=40 Maybe Rob was thinking you would glue them overlapped and then glue the strip on top--not sure how that would look to be honest. I'd like to see how you do it. In any case, looks like ABS is tough to find without getting a huge sheet. Those strips might make good snap tabs if you go with a snap / strap system. Big grats on the Wisconsin Garrison, man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 (edited) Ok, here's my forearms and bicepts. Right now, one side is glued on all parts. What do I do? Actually, after looking at them, I could trim each side and butt them together...then tape them from behind...then add finishing strip and glue. I just need to match up the finishing strip with the butt and make sure they are both the same width...15mm for the arms and 20mm for the legs...now...How to remove super glue. Cyanoacrylate....will Acetone hurt ABS? Edited March 24, 2010 by SolderMaster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkrestonva[TK] Posted March 24, 2010 Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 Acetone - essentially nail polish remover - will damage the ABS. Since RT Mod assembly (like FX and AM) doesn't require joining strips, it might be best just to glue them on top of the overlapping joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 Acetone - essentially nail polish remover - will damage the ABS. Since RT Mod assembly (like FX and AM) doesn't require joining strips, it might be best just to glue them on top of the overlapping joint. Ok thanks, tkrestonva. That's prolly what I'll end up doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EOTK Posted March 24, 2010 Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 Hey Brian. Sorry if I started you down the spiral earlier. I didn't catch that you had glued stuff already--I definitely wouldn't advocate you ripping stuff apart. I know you are pretty fearless with your mods, but yeah the butt-joints with strips would be a lot work anyways on the RT, even if you hadn't glued yet. Have fun with the build, man! I'll be watching for more pix to get me through until I get my plastic, heh. EO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 I got the shins setting with clamps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 Man is this thread easily over looked for some reason or what? What a killer job you did on that blaster! Not everyday you see an RT Mod in the making. Lets get a 360 degree set of pics on that bucket too the latest and greatest RT Mod bucket! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolderMaster Posted March 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 Man is this thread easily over looked for some reason or what? What a killer job you did on that blaster! Not everyday you see an RT Mod in the making. Lets get a 360 degree set of pics on that bucket too the latest and greatest RT Mod bucket! Thanks Smitty! Remember, it's not finished yet...still need to find an accurate length mag... There was a little problem with the lid when I got it. The black line that goes around the grey on the ears was fubared. The decal shrunk during shipping or something...so I removed it. I did, however, grab some paint for that. I also need to paint the frown, decals for now, and then it's the electronics...but that's later...Here's the pics of the lid as requested...these pics show the fubared decal around the ears....OH, and I have bumpy ears! I did ask for them tho...he normally doesn't do the bumps. Right now I have the shins glued and velcroed. Bicepts are glued, forearms are glued and velcroed. I may sand part of the return edge of the forearms so that I will be able to glue both sides...I just don't like the velcroed look on them. Tomorrow, I'll attach the sniper plate and begin the thighs. Man, this is a total blast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.