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I think you're better off with CA glue on small parts like these. Very impressive build btw! It's not much left of that hasbro anymore.

Some more progress today. A little bit of work making a blowback shield and readying the muzzle. One new lesson learned. Don't use good cutting bits on J-B stick! The stuff will fill in the grooves and make the cutting bit pretty useless. So, one more run the the hardware store for replacement bits today. Time to start on the barrel! The plan is to cut off the barrel about where that red mark is in the picture above, right at the molded seam in the Hasbro. I cut off a length of pipe long enough to make the barrel and recess in to the Hasbro body up to the speaker. I need to find a better method of cutting this stuff. I borrowed a chop saw, but it had a pretty rough blade and chipped up the end. It's ok for this build since it will be hidden in the body, but I'll need to have a better method later. Then comes the tedious part; drilling. This was pretty much an all day activity. Pilot holes, cutting out the circles. Cleaning up the circles. Coming back with the grinding wheel. Filing. So much filing. But in the end it's looking pretty good. I mocked up the parts together, and it at least makes me feel like there's been some progress. I think it looks pretty cool. Almost makes me want to build a transparent E-11 display piece.

Another day of working on my blaster. Trigger To get warmed up I started with modding the trigger. When I get this thing closed up there's a good chance it won't open again, so I figure it would be good to finish anything that requires access to the internals. I left it gluing with some E-6000. Barrel Attempt (J-B Stick) Next, I tried closing the barrel yet again. Using Eric's suggestion I tried bridging the gab with something a bit stronger. Thanks Eric for the ideas. I was hoping to seal the top, drill holes, and then cut a seam down the middle. Then disaster hit! The J-B Stick held up better then the Bondo, but it still needed to be handled carefully and some of it cracked off. The bigger problem was that I did not heed the old adage "measure twice, cut once". My row of holes was slightly shifted and ended up off center. Filling this gap was difficult enough as it is, but now it will be near impossible. So, lessons learned: Bondo is best for filling depressions, not gaps J-B Stick can handle small gaps, but still is weak and difficult to drill through I've got a lot of practice with drilling and applying Bondo, so I wouldn't count this as a complete loss. At this point I'm falling back to Plan B; completely replace the barrel. Yay for more learning opportunities! Barrel Replacement Before cutting some pipe, or committing to cutting off the Hasbro barrel, I figured I had best ready some of the pre-requisites. Namely, I would now need a forward sight and some work for the muzzel. Forward Sight WIthout the Hasbro sight I would need to make my own. I printed out some templates from the Best Sterling Templates EVER thread and got to work on a peice of sheet aluminum from my local hardware store. Muzzle I'll still use the Doopy Doos muzzle, but I now need another layer to adapt it to the end of my pipe. I also have wanted to use real bolts on the end, so it's time to connect those too. And that looks like it will be the end for today. I still need the little crecent vent cover for the right side of the barrel and a bayonette lug. I'll be about ready to cut the pipe and start drilling holes again (lots of practice drilling holes). I should be able to assemble and even paint the pipe independently then glue it in to the body of the gun.

I'm trying to think what you could cut it with that would allow it to go back together nicely. I suppose you could probably work an exacto through there very slowly and carefully and pray that whatever funkiness you create is covered by the t-track. The epoxy putty made for plastic that I used is probably dense enough to be structural for this cut if it were thick enough... but it seems like quite a bit of effort for not too much payoff. Or you could find a clever way to put wax paper in between the two halves before applying epoxy so it eventually comes apart cleanly and nicely. I say goop it up with the epoxy putty inside and out to build enough thickness to drill your holes and leave it sealed up. Even if the barrel is shorter than a real sterling it will look way better than most of our crappy hasbro hacks Good luck... I am looking forward to seeing what you come up with Aloha, -Eric

If you decide not to replace the barrel I suggest the epoxy putty stuff for plastic at Ace hardware. Cut off a bit, mix it up with a putty knife and sculpt away. Easily sandable and it likes plastic... Where convincing bondo to stick to plastic is difficult. Fiberglass resin is just epoxy not actual fiberglass. If you use it straight you'll just be glueing the barrel together. I love my hasbro but wish I had gone right to the full resin droopy kit. Keep up the photo documentation and excellent work. We dig it. Aloha and good luck, -Eric

Looking at this again today I'm concluding that the Bondo solution is just way too unstable. Even after handling it a bit more pieces chipped off so I went ahead and chipped off all the Bondo on the top. So I have two possible routes that I could try next. 1. Try using fiberglass to bridge the top I picked up some 3M fiberglass resin from the hardware store. I've never used this stuff before, so I have no real idea of how well it will form or hold up to drilling. This would also probably permanently seal the gun up. 2. Cut off the whole barrel and replace it with a pipe I have some 1.5" pipe, which is a bit narrower then the rest of the Hasbro body, but I think it will look ok. After all, a slight jump in diameter will be less noticeable the the Hasbro's more obvious tells. If I go this route I will need to come up with a new front sight, as well as extend the folding stock (since I would want it to be proper Sterling length). Either way I'm certainly getting my education out of this thing. What does everyone think? Do a barrel from scratch, or figure out how to best close up the Hasbro barrel?

I took the plastic strips left over from making a piece of t-track and bondo'd them in to place at the top of the barrel. I sanded back or knocked off the existing bondo so that when they were in place they should make a straight seam down the top of the gun. When closed up they weren't quite flush and there were some gaps. I filled that in with another application of Bondo on the outside and sanded it down. Next I re-applied the template and drilled holes. So herein lies another quirky problem with the Hasbro. The Hasbro barrel is dimensionally pretty screwed up. It is shorter then a Sterling, but perhaps more problematic is that it is a wider diameter. The pre-drilled holes however are about the same size and spacing as they are on a Sterling. What makes this awkward is that there is no way of making the holes be evenly spaced. The traditional pattern has each hole about 17.2mm away from each neighbor, both on the same row and the next. This can't be done on the Hasbro, so instead I have an extra space between the top row and the next row on either side. My other option would have been to center a row between the top and the side, but then I wouldn't get the even spacing. I'm not sure which is better or worse. This pattern was mostly convenient because I already had templates with this spacing. Ok, that aside, after doing some more sanding and cutting this is basically what I end up with: For the Bondo to be stable, this has to be pretty thick. I also chipped off some of the plastic and Bondo in the sanding process, so that will somehow need to be replaced or filled in. As I suspected earlier, this isn't going to be very stable. Some of the damage/flaws will be obscured by the t-track, but it will be hard to finish these off well. Even if I get this part looking halfway decent, I'm not sure how I'm going to keep it stable. It would not be great if the slightest bump put a gaping hole in the top of the barrel. More thinking will be required...

Thanks. I've been following your scratch build with a lot of interest. I can't wait for you to release your templates, the barrel template has already been useful, and it is very nice to have a good reference on the dimensions. Today I found a local supplier of transparent 1.5" O.D. acryllic tube, so I picked up a piece. I could see getting some good use out of it soon; I just need to finish the Hasbro and build some armor first.

This is some impressive level of detail for a Hasbro Mod. Nice skills sir. I think after this you are going to find a pipe build or a scratch build an absolute walk in the park.

Sunday, day 2 of my Hasbro work. I still needed to sand down the newly Bondo'd right side. This time I used a ruler wrapped in sandpaper once I got the big chunks off with the dremel. It came out a lot cleaner. As expected the two sides did not fit cleanly together. I just mashed them up against each other and sanded down the thick parts until it started fitting. Unfortunately a peice chipped off in this process. On the plus side, it's just Bondo and is easily replaced. I'll take care of it the next time I have the need to mix up some more. Lighting Experiment I was a little disappointed with the lights and sounds on the Hasbro after I discovered that it only had one LED at the tip. It seemed like the red side pieces should light up through the holes. I thought about adding a few more red LEDs in parallel with the tip LED to provide a little more effect, but I'm pretty sure they won't be very visible. Especially since most of the holes will be covered in t-track. So if I wanted any light to shine through at all, it's got to be brighter. In the immortal words of Tim Allen/Taylor "More Power!" I went to my local Fred Meyer in search of something that could light up the inside of the tube. They had some LED road flares the looked about right, but they weren't very bright in the daylight. I then found this thing: It's some sort of flash light that contains a fairly bright array of 24 white LEDs and it runs on 4 AAA batteries. I split it apart by hand and worked on wiring it in to the electronics. The power to the tip LED wasn't enough to drive it. I found a place on the circuit board that was enabled at the same time as the tip LED, but had a bit more voltage. I think there is a current limiting resistor between that point and the LED. I couldn't remember enough electronics to sort this out myself without doing a bit more research then I wanted to spend time on so I enlisted the aid of a friend of mine who helped me prototype out a switching mechanism using a resistor and a discrete PNP transistor. I tapped the point on the board I had noticed earlier and used the transistor to run power straight from the battery to the LED array. It works great and the lights come on at full brightness. To fit the lights in the barrel I split the LED array up by scoring and snapping it in the middle, and using the dremel to cut off the ends. (Do not breath the dust coming off of this thing) I'm thinking of mounting them similar to how I show above. I'm not entirely decided yet. They are bright, and as they are I think you will see a flash coming out of the holes and along the t-tracks. It might be good to cover them in a red film of some sort to alter the color. I'm not sure if that's necessary or not and it might get in the way and reduce the brightness. One big puzzle I have to work out is how I am going to close this up exactly. My plan so far is this, although it is obviously not ideal and may need some tweaking: 1) Spray paint the interior with a metallic base coat. 2) Mount electronics 3) Fill in top gap with Bondo and seal the gun up 4) Sand down Bondo from outside 5) Drill top row of holes * this is where it gets a bit weird, but I'm not sure of another way to spray paint the newly finished exterior without painting the electronics reflective paint on the interior * 6) Put a thin balloon in the holes and inflate to fill the interior of the chamber 7) Paint exterior with base coat and final coat 8) Pop and extract the balloon I'm open for suggestions. Experimenting with using Bondo for the top of the tube, and trying to fill the tube with electronics may be a bit at odds with each other. But it's all about learning. Even if I do a custom build I may have an instance where I want to mask the interior of the tube while painting the exterior around the holes, so it would be good to find out if this trick works. This concludes day 2. I probably won't have much time to work on it until next weekend, so until then I'll just try to plan what I'll do next.

Starting out. Initial gun, right out of packaging with screws removed. First thing to do was apply the dremel to take off the orange muzzle. Since I have some things I want to do in the guts I needed to split it open. I tried the screwdriver technique to get the scope cap off, but my Hasbro wasn't having any of that. I gave up and dremmeled the scope cap off, and it looks like there was no way that glue would have given to the screwdriver. The thing was fused on there solid. Once getting the scope cap off I discovered that the scope rail and top t-track fin were also glued. The scope rail came apart with a little prying with a thin knife blade, but the t-track did not give so easily. When I attempted to separate it cracks formed along the edge of the track, and I was worried they would extend in to the body of the barrel. I eventually gave up on being ginger with it and forced it open. There was a little damage, but it wasn't excessive. I probably could have got away with sealing it back up that way, but I had another idea. I had already been tempted to remove the built in t-track and put in new holes and t-track for a somewhat more detailed effect, so I decided to commit and strip away the built in t-tracks. In that last picture you can see where I got a little too agressive with the sander and put a hole in the body. This was my first time using the dremel for sanding, and it's easy to get carried away. For these long straight sections I think I will refrain from the dremel in the future and stick with a block and sand paper. The dremel does make quick work of the t-tracks though. It might be a bit hard to see in this last picture, but my next problem was that under the top t-track the plastic is slightly recessed. If I simply sanded it off I would end up with a long hole going down the length of the barrel. To fix this I am attempting to fill the gap with bondo. I'm not sure if this will end up working since it is on a seam and I will want to have a row of holes in it, but I figured it is worth a shot. The worst that can happen is I botch the barrel so badly I need to replace it altogether, which while unpleasant, I'm pretty sure is doable (and I could get a correct length barrel as a bonus). While the Bondo was setting on the left side, I took to sanding down and prepping right side. After getting it to pretty much the same state, I started drilling holes. I used a hand drill with a small bit to start pilot holes. The problem here was that my surface was round and not very even (I need to work on my sanding). You can see that while I tried getting straight lines, the bit would shift when I started the drill and I couldn't get them to line up very well. I decided to scrap this approach and try dremeling with a template. I printed out the tube template from The Best Sterling Templates EVER! (Thanks ZeroRoom!). I lined up the template with a light and attached it with a little spray glue. I roughly dremeled out the holes with a cutting bit and then filed them out with a round file. They didn't turn out too bad. I've gradually been touching them up with a file every time I notice any lopsidedness. Once the Bondo had dried on the other peice I was ready to cut down the rest of the top t-track. I Bondo'd up the right hand side and let that harden while working on the left now. You'll notice a little more Bondo where I had patched that sanding hole from earlier. There are a few bubles in the Bondo as well as a pretty uneven edge. I'll have to apply more when I seal it up. I'm just hoping the Bondo will be strong enough to withstand drilling/sanding out the holes. We'll just have to wait and see! Next step was to do the same template cut and sand procedure to put holes on the left side. I left the third hole small. I'm not sure if I want to widen it out or put a bayonette bolt here. This concludes what I did on Saturday. I did more on Sunday, but I'll split that in to another post.

So I'm doing a Hasbro mod. My goals are to make an ANH EIB acceptable blaster, and learn as much as I can about building a blaster so I can do a scratch built or more accurate kit later. I'm new to most of the tools and techniques I will be using for this build so to a large degree this is a learning experience. I'll post what I've tried in this build thread so I can get some feedback from those that have done this before, and provide another reference to those that still want to try. Thanks to everyone who's posted build threads. I've looked at a bunch of build threads and every one has been an invaluable help for someone who's never done this before. A lot of the stuff on this forum is pretty inspirational and it's got me real excited to get in and start trying things. What I am using: Base: Hasbro blaster Add-ons: Doopydoos Hasbro modification kit (these have apparently changed over time, so I'll point out this one was bought in Jan 2012) Other changes I'm considering: Basic Doopydoos conversion Full set of barrel holes with a better t-track (I've already started cutting so I'm committed to this one now) Hollowed scope rail and sight Reshaping the trigger More lights in the barrel Metal hex screws in the front Some sort of improved rear scope end Helstringer wires Counter decal Reshaping other parts? Extending the barrel? Tools I'm using: Dremel 4000 E-6000 Bondo Sand Paper Spray Paint Exacto Knife Soldering Iron Misc. other (if you see that I'm using something interesting let me know and I'll add it to this list)

I am ashamed of my Doopy/ Hasbro conversion now.

Hey speaking of the Doopydoos kit, mine is on it's way this week. Whats the best way to adhere the pieces to the plastic hasbro gun, ABS / plastic weld?

The Doopydoos kit is amazingly easy to adhere to the Hasbro blaster. And even though the Hasbro retrofit is shorter than the original Sterling, it still looks great.

Never saw that one coming did you? Well I decided the blaster was as good a place to start as any, and at a friend's recommendation I decided to buy a Hasbro and then convert it. Doopydoos kit has been ordered, but to tide me over as I wait I decided to do some of the stuff I've seen in other build threads. Namely take out those weird red things from the shroud, get rid of the scope front, nip the tip, and sand off the fun little FCC compliance statement and friends. I would have liked to drill in that extra set of holes in the shroud, but I found myself happened by a crippling combination of laziness and worry. Worry about the inability to take the damn thing apart, thanks to that infernal back of the scope. Its wedged on there tighter than... tighter than a thing that's really tight. So in the absence of drilling, I decided to have fun hollowing out that scope rail and the front sights. This was my very first time using my new dremel, but I'm reasonably pleased with it. Now take a look at the pics please and let me know what I'm doing right and what I'm doing wrong. Your opinions are always welcome, unless your opinion is that I'm a jerk (In which case: pffft, you don't even KNOW me.)

Hey everyone... I've got another quick hasbro related question.... Does the alignment of the power cylinders in this photo look right to you? There isn't much room behind them to add wires without having the the base plate extend past the clip housing. I wasn't sure if I should slide it closer to the body of the gun or keep it more on the outside edge near the clip. ---------- Aloha and thanks, -Eric

We agree again, the hasbro is too short by itself, but if you look at my pics you will see that I have extended it. I beleive you need to add 1 7/8 inch spacer.

pardon me for asking, but I don't believe that hasbro mods are allowed for centurion? you look like you're well on the way to a fully custom build. keep in mind that the hasbro is too short.

I am starting my quest for ANH Stunt Centurion. I am going to show you how to make your own blaster using a variety of materials that can be obtain at little or no cost. I am also going to show that an accurate blaster can be created without a resin kit glued to a PVC pipe. Please refrain from posting any negative comments in my build, a new thread can be started for that elsewhere. Questions and comments are welcome Here we go.... I started out by purchasing a Hasbro blaster for $10 Then I gutted it down to a shell You see the use of standard sink drain extention pipe(2@$2.99-16" length)that I am using for an inner shell and fillin. The bolt is made from a plastic container w/ a strip of styrene. I have been using the visual reference material found in the armory and the BBC blaster plans(which have some issues). I have also found Tkbondservants modifications to those plans helpful. Here are some shots of the barrel w/ a rule to demonstrate scale Here you see a full layout using a doopy-doo tip(temporary until scratch built) to provide full dimension. You also get a glimpse of my scratchbuilt handle. Next up: Handle assembly

After seeing the Centurion requirements, and the fact my armor no longer fits right due to losing 20 lbs, I have decided to do a Centurion build & PVC pipe build. I have seen the DoopyDos kit, but where do I find the build instrcutions for the pipe? Also I need some info on what size and how many holes are to be drilled. When I did my hasbro build, I used the existing holes to make a template for the new ones. I would appreciate any help you guys can offer. Thank you.

I'd troop with it. looks much better than a hasbro any day!

Looking awesome Christiaan! By the time your finished, it wont resemble a Hasbro blaster at all

While working on my counter, I made the decision to fabricate all of my doopy-doos parts. This will allow me to do as many hasbro mods as I want with out ever needing another kit Here is my first try at building the magazine, I am happy so far. Need to go to ACE and get the set pin to attach to the back and it will be ready for clean up. Interior shots of the prototype structure. Fitting Full mag fitting Parts side by side Better get back to it!

Well, I have been out of the loop for awhile due to personal reasons( loss of our newborn ). But, now I am back and ready to go ANH. I like the new centurion program, but I am bummed that my blaster will not be acceptable. I think an extremely modded hasbro should be acceptable if it looks nearly spot on. I am doing this mod because I can and plan to be able to upgrade the electronics down the road. So here are some pics of my blaster at present I started off with the idea to have the whole blaster split, but I have another idea that will work better. It will allow me to access the electronics and keep the integrity of the barrell. A few more shots of my progress. That's all for now