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Haven't really done much else because I've also been working on a Hasbro mod. I did find some aluminum piping though and for those that were wondering about the weight of the copper..... Aluminum: 500g Copper: 540g Steel: 660g Those are the weights of the 18-1/2" unmachined pipes.

It goes back to some of the first script drafts. LUKE You're General Kenobi?!? The Jedi knight! The commander of the White Legions? BEN I'm afraid it's been a long time since the White Legions roamed the stars. But I have the memories. Luke drops to his knees and bows before the old Jedi. LUKE I should have recognized you. The old man rubs his beard in wonder. BEN I don't see why. I don't believe we've ever met. LUKE I am the son of Annikin Starkiller. The scruffy old Jedi smiles at the kneeling boy. BEN I know who you are. Stand up so that we can talk properly. You're embarrassing me. I'm not that important. LUKE But you are... I know your 'Diary of the Clone Wars' by heart. My father...

Did anyone spot R2-D2? He makes a cameo appearance in the new Star Trek.

Apparently pink troopers showed up at the LFL/Ainsworth trial in England as a sign of protest/solidarity. Leave it to the brits....

Series doubles the impedance (assuming the two speakers are equal -- the formula is speaker1 + speaker2) and usually results in lower volume. Plus side is the amp doesn't have to work as hard. Parallel halves the impedance (again assuming equal speakers) and usually results in higher volume because the amp has to work harder. As long as you don't exceed the rating of the amp parallel should be just fine.

Just found out about Kevin's ANH helmets but can't find much info here on the board. Nothing on StarWarsHelmets.com either. Anybody got some good reviews or comparisons?

Not much new but I got the barrel installed. It's not quite centered but it looks good enough to me. Right now it's being supported only at the back. The front end will support it at the front and hopefully straighten things up a tad. Also got the stock mount installed. I wish now that I'd used a piece with a larger O.D. but oh well. Also screwed up in that the ejector can no longer slide in from the back. I'll have to figure out some way around that but I'm not going to worry about it too much. It would have been nice to make it functional but I can live with it being static. On to some bondo work I suppose. Does my grip look positioned properly front to back?

Thanks for that. Hope someone who's actually worn both will chime in. Pics can be deceiving.

From what I've gleaned so far, the FX is the largest and the AP is the smallest but where does the SDS Battle Spec fit in? Any body got some wearability experience?

Hi all, Never really worked with resin before so I'm not sure how strong it is. What size screw do you all use for attaching it to the blaster tube? And what length? Thanks

I've been using one of those on the copper -- borrowed it from a coworker. Never thought about it for the PVC. I wanted to use aluminum but all I could get a hold of easily was PVC, steel, or copper. The copper is lighter than the steel but not by a whole lot but it is sure easier to drill into. It's also a much closer size to the BBC PVC template. A full machine shop would sure be nice but alas...... Except for the deburrer and a wire wheel I did the above with my drill and some files. I hope the hard part is done and all I have to worry about now is which glue to use on the painted copper.

I'd be interested. Like the others, I just tried my first AP and I can barely get my head in.

Just had to document this since it's probably all downhill from here. My hat's off to all of you who work with PVC but I went through about 8 feet of it, screwing up every time. The good thing about it is that it's soft but the bad thing about it..... is that it's soft. One slip and you've got a gouge that ruins it all. And I don't know how you debur all those holes..... long strings of melty white plastic everywhere! With the copper you've really got to work at it before you screw it up. Of course I managed that too.... this is my second try. Next step is to install some sort of barrel centered in the copper. I've got a piece of stainless already cut but the centering will be the tricky part. Then on to priming. This is my first attempt at..... well, anything so I'm trying to take it slow. Fingers crossed it'll turn out ok.

The ABS welder actually melts the ABS and then hardens it again so it really helps to have experience with it. It also comes in both white and black so be sure it's not the black one.

I bought a wreck of a blaster that I'm going to try and save and while it's mostly ANH-style (which I want), it does have a D-ring near the muzzle, a la ROTJ. I found this picture that shows what I'm talking about but this is not the actual blaster. Does the second D-ring make it unacceptable for an ANH trooper? Would you bother removing it?

There was one for sale a few days ago.

No, I get that point but that is not what Mr Bungle wrote. Glad to see things cleaned up because the way it was written seemed directed at the purchasers/builders.

Being that they're both in Germany, I figure they each just bought and built them. Why would they have recasted?

Is there a Fry's Electronics near you? They should have them. Looks like a connector for a cordless phone battery and those are sold all over the place... Target, WalMart.... You could cannabalize one of them.

Thanks for the pic. It looks like that same trooper has two rivets/screws at the bottom of the ear -- someting I also thought I should do but something I've very seldom seen. So many choices and so many worries about making the wrong one. I've already got an FX so I don't need even more humiliation for weird build choices.

Total newbie here but I'm starting my FX build and I was wondering about centering the dome. I know that nothing is symmetrical so what's thought to be better -- aligning the front trapezoids in relation to the eyes or centering the rear trapezoids with the midline of the back? Or maybe somewhere in between. Also, screen accuracy seems to be the hallmark but then I see a lot of tips that call for eliminating the ear gaps and even caulking them. Aren't the gaps more accurate than not? And lastly, the FX manual suggests radiusing the brow trim around the ears to better hide the seam but looking around I see that almost no one does this. Any arguments one way or the other? Thanks a bunch.