troopermaster

You really should trim those ear caps a lot more so there is no visible trim line. The trim line is on there to show you where to trim. I think you are making the assembly harder by not screwing the face to the cap/back first. If you don't have any rivets or screws - get some! It will make the whole thing a lot easier for you if it is assembled first rather than struggle trying to line up holes for the ear caps and using those to hold everything together. Also, I have heard most people don't bother using the pre-marked holes on the AP helmet.

I personally would not caulk the strips (or anything else) simply because the original suits did not. I prefer the rugged look of the original suits and don't try to make my suit overly clean, I'd rather have it as natural as possible without any extra finishing touches.

Hi Fil. Long time no speak. Good to have you back mate

Sounds like it is a CRProps helmet made by Dave G. Looks awesome

They are all like that (well, most are )

They don't look too bad.---------------

Hallelujah

That looks like the right size compared to Johns original suit. Is the trim PVC or silicone?

Rob, Please get in touch with me. I need to speak to you urgently! If anyone knows Rob, please let him know I need to speak to him ASAP. Thanks

Happy Birthday Rolf! Hope you a had a good one

If it was me building this kit, I would trim the raised edges to roughly half the size of the joining strips (15mm for arms - 20mm for legs) on all outer pieces and then trim the inner piecs to suit. It looks like you will be trimming a lot of plastic away so take your time and do it right

Take a look.

Best thing to do is get someone in the US to buy it for you and ship it. Chances are it will be cheaper but by how much I don't know? The stuff I found in the UK is too small or the other I found was too dull and off white, but it was the right size.

I see what you mean now about the inside measurement and that is just fine. It's the outside that needs to look bigger and it does, so I would say this should be perfectly good stuff to use for any ROTJ armour. If it does not conform to the armour in certain areas, I believe a bit of gentle heat with an air gun or hair dryer should persued it

Mason, That looks like a winner to me Is it gloss PVC edging?

I know, they are very heavy. I often attend arms fairs and get to handle lots of real deactivted guns. The Sterlings are quite heavy but nothing compared to an MG. I couldn't believe just how heavy they were when I first picked one up. The film props must have been lightweight replicas.

Ever handled a real MG? You won't be swinging it around with one hand like Han does

2mm ABS seems to be the favoured guage for trooping helmets. I have made them from 1mm and 1.5mm ABS, both are very lightweight and flexible. Try that with Styrene or HIPS and it's a different story. It's too brittle and will likely crack during the rigours of trooping, but can be quite good for display though. My 2mm ABS helmets are rock solid

3/16 is way to short for accurate trim. Try looking for 3/8 or as close to 10mm as possible. I found a UK supplier for gloss but it was slightly undersize at 8mm.

If there is one I know about...it's armour. There are details I picked out on that blurred image that are only found on ANH armour. I suspected it may have been a TM simply because of the way the biceps and shoulder bells are worn on the wrong side and I have not seen a suit like that before with a hero helmet. Another give-away was the fastened strap on the holster. Loving the handplates on the wrong side BTW, and the arms too. Gives it a more realistic appearance

Whatever it is, I can say with certainty that it is definately not a T/MC, TE2, AP or any other screen derived kit.

The real holsters are very thick and you might need an industrial sewing machine to stitch it together. I took a bunch of 3mm leather holsters to my local cobbler and he sewn them together for me. Nowadays I sew my own and use 1.5mm leather. While it may not be 100% accurate, it still does the job very well and even holds my real Sterling with no problems.

Good man! Take your time and do it right. Test fit everything before cutting and then you will see what size strips to use. By the sounds of things you will need the standard 20mm for the legs and 15mm for the arms, but go wider if you need to. These measurements are not set in stone so go with what fits you best

I think it would be fine to show the elastic strapping (as long as it's black ) The main thing you have to do is get it to fit you right and space the parts out as best you can.

You want to leave at least a 10mm flat edge for the joining strip to stick too. That is assuming you can fit into the armour without shimming it, in which case you want to get it to fit right first before trimming away precious material, then add the joining strips/shims accordingly. That is for the legs anyway. For the arms you are aiming for 15mm strips, so leave approximately 8mm either side for the joining strips.