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Posts posted by troopermaster
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I have put a few spares up for grabs on ebay. Check it out....EBAY
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Nice one Steve
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Hi,
I have both brow and neck trim available. PM me please.
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Fantastic
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If you cut off the lip then there is really no point using 'S' profile trim. Test fit it by trying both slots and see which fits better. Make sure that you filp it over so the majority of the rubber is inside the helmet, making the trim look thinner from the outside. This does make the opening slightly smaller, but that's just how it is. I like to cut the trim slightly longer than needed so I have to force the ends together, making a nice tight joint. When you are happy with whichever slot you choose, run a thin bead of glue (I use E6000) inside the slot and fix to the helmet. You can use tape or clips to keep it in place while it dries. If you have any kinks on the trim, just glue then shut
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I have pics of a Jedi faceplace on its own I will try to dig them out.
Looking forward to seeing that pic Joe.
I still doubt Gino will accept the fact that the tubes have the kink and that his face plate mould was altered before he got his hands on it. The proof is there in the photos I showed and will be shown again when Joe finds the pic.
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This is how misinformation is spread. Unfortunate.
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So stop spreading your misinformation
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I strongly believe that is how the shape of the tube is and it shows on all the original helmets. The bulge may not look so prominent on some helmets because the face plate is sat further inside the helmet on the right side so the tube looks shorter and you cannot see the bulge because the ear cap is covering it or is on it.
I will gladly hold my hands up if I am wrong, but I don't think so. The only way this can be proven is for someone with an original helmet to show us the face plate when it is removed from the helmet.
Just out of interest Gino, is the surface of your face plate mould smooth or leathergrain?
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Good answers, but wrong.
That is the natural shape of the tubes and all original helmets are the same. Even the ANH Hero and ROTJ helmets have the same shape and they are made from more rigid ABS material. If it was pinching it would simply make the tube look tapered.
I have shown the difference why the original helmets differ from the replicas you produce, so I will leave it at that.
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What you are seeing in those photos is the thin plastic flexing under the stress of the earcap.
That 'dent' is not part of the mold but rather an effect caused by the assembly.
I thought you would say that but they are part of the mould. If they were not, then how do you account for this detail to be on the ABS hero and ROTJ helmets?
The opposite side would have the same shape if this was the case and it doesn't.
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This area is what differs from your helmet compared to any original.
I believe you when you say no modifications were made to your face plate, but your moulds did not come directly from the inside of a screen used helmet. You took a copy of the mould from a screen used helmet and who's to say for sure what was done to that mould before you got your hands on it or, if that was the actual mould that was taken or a modified version that you recieved?
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Here's a comparison between Gino's helmet and original LFL helmets. You can see that the original tubes flares out just after the ear cap into a bulbous shape towards the middle of the tube, and almost looks to have a dent on the underside where the flare starts. You can see this is missing on Gino's helmet and this is the area where it has been tweaked. All ANH, ESB, Hero and even ROTJ has the same bulbous shape on the right hand side tube but is not present on Gino's helmets......Why is that Gino?
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I'll show you tomorrow, and it's not BS.
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What you are seeing is something that must have been altered on his.
I assure you, there was no clean up on mine.
I'm not saying there was any clean up on yours. I'm saying the clean up was done before you copied the faceplate mould because this feature is not on any of the helmets you have shown on the forums, but clearly visible on all original helmets.
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It has nothing to do with sharpness or softness of the pull, but the shape of a certain part. I don't know how many moulds were made originally, but I have seen three different faceplate moulds from TE2, one of which Matt shown to me (black one) and none have them match up in this area which clearly indicates the moulds were touched up for some reason?
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No it can't.
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Yes it can.
I dare say most of it remains untouched from the original casting, but there is something that has been touched up. I haven't seen any of Matts early helmets have this feature and your mould is a copy of Matts (2nd gen) and none of your helmets have it eaither, so someone has made changes to the faceplate before you copied it.
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Actually the TE2 faceplate has had major cleanup/reworking.
So it's not really accurate to a screen used lid.
Just wanted to clarify before people get the wrong idea.
The same can be said of your faceplate too.
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You have both inner parts together and both outer parts together. I've marked them for you
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You want something like this.....
. They can be found at your local B&Q.
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That 'peak' is the just the edging lip on the bottom of the thighs, which you can see clearly on the opposite leg.
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Nate,
I just took a couple of pics from TK-2416's link and here they are marked up for you.
I'm sure you can manage with the thighs
TM armour is marked up already
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If you take a photo of the parts, I will tell you which is left and right
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I still don't understand why certain other makers are regarded as more accurate when AA originally made them in the first place?
Yes, AA formed the originals back in 1976, but he is not using the original moulds today. His helmets are derived from moulds that came from casting he made after ANH which were modified from the original design. The helmets had ribbed tubes at the back and they were made in three main sections, unlike the original two piece design.
Other makers of helmets like TE actually moulded a real helmet from ANH and that is why they are more accurate. His moulds are first generation recasts and the most accurate replicas made. AA's moulds are modified from a modifed version of an ANH helmet, so they are far from accurate and lack size and shape of many features to make an accurate replica.
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Thanks for posting it
I just did a quick web search and found the other photo that I used to have.
ESB Gloves
in ESB Stormtrooper
Posted · Edited by gmrhodes13
photos updated gmrhodes13 2021
They all look like decent gloves, but the original ESB gloves were very short at the wrist. I used to have a pair that were very similar to what may have been used, but I sold them with the hand plates sewn on.
Here is a diagram showing the sewing pattern.