troopermaster
-
Posts
3,638 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
12
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Articles
Media Demo
Posts posted by troopermaster
-
-
Something like this perhaps?
-
Here's what I do....
First off I start with the black outline. I use a thin tipped modeling brush and don't start right at the edges where I want the line, I start a few millimeters away and work closer to the edge making the outer edge of the line as straight as I can. Don't worry about the line being thick, you go over it with the grey when it's dried.
Once the black has dried, start adding the grey in the same way by filling in the area and working outwards. By doing it this way you are in control over how thick you want the black line. You can make the line thick and even, and once happy with it, add more grey until it is a nice thin and even border all the way around.
The best bet is to try this method on some scrap plastic first. Try is on a pop/soda bottle or something that isn't flat to help get the feel of the helmets curves.
Hope that helps Steve
-
traps grey looks spot on blue looks dark by a shade or two MHO
*edit* The SDS grey looks better I think and the blue doesn't right. The blue might look better when it is satin, but really I think they should be matt. Sorry, it's hard to tell right now as I am not on my own computer with any reference pics.
-
Thanks for the pic Saunders, much appreciated
Looking at it, I think your right about Chris being the one in the middle.
-
I know TPM would have put me right off it had it been the first Star Wars I had seen.
Same here.
The only movies I watch are ANH and ESB, after that they get a bit silly. I mean, ROTJ has some good parts but Ewoks...come on
And don't get me started on the prequels. I watched TPM once and once only. ATOC was only slightly better and ROTS slightly better still. -
I didn't realise that a lady could use that form of entry?!
(In the voice of Harry H. Corbett) You dirty old man
Please email me the hi-res lobby card John.
-
I don't know about the others, but Keith has made a few different versions over the years. The other two are not the ROTJ tips though, that much I do know.
-
I met Chris a few years ago...nice bloke.
He answered all my questions as best he could. He had this picture in front of him to sign and I asked him if he was in it, and he said yes, but couldn't remember which one he was?
-
BTW interesting factoid is that he only got the name "RT-Mod" when he and I couldnt think how his stuff should be referred to on my site
Cheers
Jez
So how did you come up with that name Jez?
Does he ride a Lambretta and wear a fish tail parka
-
The pics I had are gone when I had my computer reformated and the site where I got them (TE's) is down for good too. I'm not sure if TE moved the pics or not, best ask him
-
PMS 5425 looks like a winner to me
and also PMS 2757 for the stripes! -
Hmmm that is strange. Only the maker of the helmet should have to worry about recasters.
It's hard to tell from pictures, but it does look as though something has been placed on the tear ducts rather sloppily and been removed. Anyway, looks better now with the new lining
-
I think you mis-read Matt. He meant Gino puts resin/epoxy inside the helmets Gino makes, not your in actual helmet.
The epoxy was probably there to hold cooling fans or padding, but was put in badly by the previous owner.
-
Thanks for all the suggestions guys
Now, decisions....decisions......
-
I use a fine tip brush to make the outer edges ofthe vocoder, then fill in with a larger tip brush. Start at the top and work your way down. I make it slightly smaller at first and then work outwards until I am happy with the overall look. You do need a steady hand so take your time and do it right.
-
1
-
-
ESB teeth are painted individually like ANH, but black.
-
The tube stripes are decals...silk screened I believe. All the decals look matt and have gloss black detailing. The mouth and vocoder are hand painted with what looks like satin black, while the ear caps look gloss grey.
If I were to have a go at making decals, I would concentrate on the tube stripes. This is the only area I feel where all the decals available fail. They are too uniformed and precise. They need to be more random and ragged IMO, just like they were originally.
-
UK sizes are usually a size smaller than US. My nikes are UK 10-US 11.
I don't know if the 'B' represents the colour, but mine says 290-B. There are other 290's on ebay now. Be careful though, not all Loake chelsea boots are the same. Some are shorter and have wider elastic, and would probably keep popping out from under your shin armour.
-
Mine are 290-B. There is a pair on ebay right now- EBAY
-
Thanks for the tip Chef!
I just bought a bottle to try out on my Loakes, but I need spray dye for my originals. I'll post the results when the boots are done.
-
I am not in the army but I do a lot of air gun hunting and always have a poncho in my ruck. They have a mulitude of purposes, and I mainly use mine as a ground sheet for shooting prone position on the wet days. Although I have goretex ECWCS, I still carry my poncho everywhere when I am out shooting. I do have a liner but I've never used it in the field, just on the sofa
-
To all you guys with ABS suits....."which glue have you found to be the best and why?"
I know E6000 is good for most plastics, but it has a very slow cure time and I need something that bonds fast, or at least faster than E6000's 24 hours.
-
Another thing I found better was to have the forearm higher up than normal, so that when you bend your arm, the forearm sits under your bicep and really reduces any nipping. If you try to make your forearm fit over your bicep when you bend your arm, chances are it's going to nip more. Just try pulling your forearm up closer to your bicep before you do any cutting and see if it makes any difference. Worked for me anyway
-
Try one of these mate....they're very loud
----------
ROTJ bucket from LFL molds
in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Posted
I'd be happy with one of those fibreglass helmets you made for my collection.
PM me if you have one