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deputyd0ng

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Everything posted by deputyd0ng

  1. Hey Cricket, I have started adding my straps snaps and belcro to make it wearable, but Im having an issue with the back plate, and wanted to get your advice. I printed the back in two pieces, and each "strap" as one piece. As you can see in the photos, there isnt much clearance to get my arms through, which although when on it fits, when removing I broke the strap at the weld. I used Sci-Grip Weldon #4 on the outer and inner seam, and when that cured used an old soldering iron to strengthen the weld underneath. I realize I could probably lose a few inches off the straps, as they will be covered by the chest plate. But I want to somehow re-inforce the straps to the back plate. Should I extend the sheet metal shoulder tabs for the bells to go across the seam and form them into place and then try to do some welds to the plastic? Surprisingly E-6000 is working on the PETG, I didnt think it would, but so far the fabric elastics I glued into the shin armor seems to be holding up, should I dump some e6000 onto the seam after re-welding? ANY advice would be appreciated, trying to get this thing done by next weekend. This thread has been a huge help since I started this. I printed these squares with an 11mm hole in them out of PETG, and welded them into the abdomen plate for snapping the torso suspension on. So far so good, but I want to address this back plate issue!
  2. Red EL Tape or EL Panel. I have been trying to do this on mine but splicing EL tape, for a n00b is basically impossible.
  3. Makes sense, Ill add a piece of sheet metal in between and drill it out, like you did. And that answers my main question on the bearing, Im guessing this helps it "slide" into place, rather than having a screw head on there that would scrape the blaster.
  4. Definitely getting a snap press. I re-printed the right thigh, with the new holster mount. The holster assembly has two versions, one you print in 3 layers, another that is a complete unit. What benefit, other than limiting overhangs is there for the 3 layer version? also, for the screws, I saw a post on here regarding which screws to use, my question is, what lenght did you use, and is the M3 ball bearing an M3x7x3 bearing? Just want to verify before ordering.
  5. Brew board would have been perfect, but it is sold out, unfortunately. And the skyone isnt yet shipping. May make a carrier board with a blank PCB just to make the soldering easier
  6. Also, what type of snaps do you reccomend? IM looking to order some now. Are they screw in for hammer rivet? and what size?
  7. Thanks cricket...Ive been painting/priming/sanding...and now that the parts are "done" the idea of making them werable seems daunting! Ive been looking over this thread a lot for references, thanks again for everything.
  8. Im putting it in T5H F-11D. Are you just JSTing all the wires? Or are you soldering distribution joints for the + /-
  9. Breadboard is total success....getting it into the blaster....thats a whole other story im currently working on. A suggestion, I know you were selling your own board, but if you could make a board available on OSH park, similar to what Troopduino did, that would make getting into the blaster MUCH easier.
  10. I see that now, I have already printed the right thigh, and unless something goes wrong, I dont want to re-print it lol. With this new one, the thingiverse bracket would not be needed, correct? They also made me a new ab plate, it does not have the flared curve outward going up, this prevented the ab plate from clearing my beer gut, and allowing the chest play to attach correctly.
  11. So im on my last 3 parts of printing this model. I have to re-print the abs section. I had to print it in 4 different pieces, and none fo them mated together well, they were also EXTREMELY thin, is your abs ection very thing as well? I would be afraid to even sand it, even if they did mate. Almost all other parts are welded together and ready for priming painting, I was just checking on this thread to see how you are doing the snaps/suspenders/shins so I will look at your other builds for the shins. I may use an ab plate from a different model, that is thicker. ALSO, I cant find the thigh bracket on thingiverse...their search is notoriously bad. is it part of an FO suit or its own model? I want to weld it to the thigh
  12. I got everything working just confused on wiring the nozzle neopixel. I have 5v and grnd, the data on Top going to the stripe, but, how do I wire the bottom hole? I tried wiring it to data, and the nozzle stays on when fired.
  13. Im almost there, just need to iron out an issue with the nozzle light. does the DO nozzle light connect to the top and bottom of the flora, and then onto the rest of the wiring? I have it wires as such and am getting some funky behavoir from the nozzle light
  14. Im having issues making my "aux" button work. The fire button works fine and I can long hold it to get through the menus but the second button does not work. Am I missing some changed I must make in configuration to allow the second button to work? Ive looked through the code but havent seen it.
  15. Now managed to get it down to BODS undefined NVM SOLVED---Had wrong board selected from when I was flashing my 3d printer firmware last night. its compiled now.
  16. SO I removed fx-blaster while I was messing around with something else, and now for the life of me cannto get it to compile. At all.. have followed guide. But keep getting undefined reference errors exit code 1.
  17. I have it bread boarded out, sound is working (havent hooked up the pixels to the board yet. But it seems like I only have trigger/fire button, not aux. Is there any details on instructions on the config files and which parts could/should be uncommented for configuration? I dont wanna bugger anything up.
  18. Is there enough power in this to power a PAM8403? If not, can a potentiometer be placed somewhere for volume control? or is the DFplayer amp suitable as long as the connected speaker is less than <3w?
  19. Definitely spent a few hours so far JUST in armor smith. The forearms, and shin came out good and fit good. However, Im still struggling with the chest/back/abs. I like the idea of changing the pieces of the colors to see intersection, Im going to do that. I have been using the opacity. And after I export the parts im bringing them into blender to measure the openings and make sure theyre true to the real-life measurements I took of my body. Also, how much does the chest overlap the abdomen? I find this to be q challenge for me
  20. I have this all bread boarded out. (oshpark board hasnt arrived yet). I currently just have one push button connected, as I would like to, for now just use it in voice activated mode mounted in my bucket. Is there any documentation that shows which button is supposed to do what? and how to activate each mode?
  21. Hows it coming along? I am in the process of building the same model.
  22. I am in the process of building this exact model right now...first time doing any armor other than a bucket. It looks great! Did you use armor smith to scale it initially? I find Im having issues with just knowing how exactly this should go together...for example how high up should the abdomen plate be? Ive been using the FOTK reference files but I need like an idea of how these parts should be worn when complete so I can scale appropiately.
  23. understood, Im printing an FOTK helmet right now, that has an outward-facing speaker mount on the left side facing the vent that I intend to cover with black speaker fabric. Ive done some small electronics, but that was by following guides online. Can I wire the output to a 90mm 8ohm 5watt speaker, rather than a headphone jack? Im thinking some type of amp may be required. I am reading about the max446, and it says an amp is required, so im thinking I can use one of the small audio amps meant for arduino, but Im gonna have to see what the real estate is like inside the bucket. I also plan on adding a TP4056 board for recharging the battery without removing. Ideally I can 3d print housing for all of these parts, so they can be semi-permanently installed.
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