bishopdonmiguel

As with the stock and other parts, using metal fasteners adds realism. Some builders have replaced the front and back with real lenses but pouring clear resin into these voids is a method to add a similar look without all the work (rear filled, front will be filled later).

Scope base is brass with an overcoat of flat black enamel. After fully curing and given a light buffing, some detail touch up with brass helps with a "used" look. As another builder here pointed out, white crayon is an excellent method to fill the lettering.

While the gun body dries, it's a good time to paint the detail parts. As I understand it, the Hengstler Counter is part painted metal, part black plastic. For the lower metal part, I use a base of metallic copper. This will show through somewhat after a thin layer of gunmetal lacquer. The top portion is painted black and a semi-gloss topcoat sets it apart from the lower piece and helps sell the plastic look I'm going for.

I'm adding a subtle texture to the gun body using a spray paint. The original Sterling has a rough texture and this will not replicate that, but it will add some visual interest and make the gun body different from the other parts. Not too much as I don't want to wash out the details of the cast. After this cures, a thin coat or two of high quality flat black enamel will be applied.

Despite the quality of the Hengstler Counter cast, the window bump is disappointing. I understand my solution isn't an accurate rebuild of this piece but it is easy and will improve the look substantially I hope. Carve out window using a Dremel. Add a straight border using styrene strips. Partially fill the void with resin to create a smooth bottom. Numbers and clear resin will be added later to finish the look.

As with the grip, using screws and epoxy to mount the magazine receiver creates a strong bond. I partially filled the cavity to provide a little extra surface area for epoxy to grab when mounting the magazine later.

As others have noted, metal fasteners add visual interest to the finished prop. Rivet heads are an easy way to make the stock and rear sight look more realistic.

Attaching the grip, I see pins being used a lot. I do think pins are great for small parts but for me, using screws with epoxy is easier and provides a better bond IMO. Just be sure they aren't so long that they interfere with bolt installation later. Cut to length with a Dremel as necessary. Fill and sand the grip hole with Milliput or other filler. I left the front screw open for installing the trigger guard later.

There are great Doopy E-11 build threads here and I'm not going to rehash all the steps of my build. It would be redundant to do so. I did want to contribute some of the techniques I used for my E-11. Full disclosure, while I do strive to be accurate, I also like to insert some of myself into every prop I build or create. When these things clash, I tend to favor my preference. So veterans, please point out anything I might do here that violates accuracy. I'm not offended by such things and it would be good for anyone reading through this to have those facts. Here we go. As many have previously encouraged, replace the resin fasteners with the real hardware. For the grip lock, I used a tapered brass screw and cap nut. Sanding off the edges of the nut provides a nice rounded dome after hollowing out the resin bit on the grip. Although somewhat larger than the real thing, I think the nut here is easier than molding epoxy replacements. The fire selector knob uses a pin like many other builders have done before. This is not yet epoxied in and will be painted separately.

Apologies if I’m offering unwanted advice. Not sure what materials you’re using here but tiny surface bubbles can often be eliminated by “talcing” the mold before pouring the resin. The powder eliminates static charge, breaks the surface tension of the resin and literally pulls it into the tiny details of the mold. I’ve found original Gold Bond body powder to be an excellent choice, although any fine dry powder will work, including pigments. Dust some powder in the mold, close it and shake it around vigorously to cover all surfaces. Open it and blow out the excess with an air hose or canned air. Hope this helps.

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