Going to cover a bunch of stuff in this section. More trimming, strapping for the arms and legs.
To start with I trimmed the return edges off the cod piece. It was quite large and very uncomfortable. I also cut the trailing piece down to the right size. The pic isn’t a great angle but you can see it’s neatened up.
Better angles. This won’t dig in like it was when I walk.
The butt plate is trimmed nicely too.
Seen from above looking down through the shoulder straps…I made and installed the strap that joins them. Two snaps in the back and in the front I used a split rivet and washer like movie worn kits. To do this I folded the elastic strap over once and ran my soldering iron through to make a hole for the rivet. Because I have the clamshell closed and latched I measured the length I need to the back, cut it and put holes in for the snaps. I used those to mark the hole st drill. Then I installed the snaps and put it in.
To hang the thighs I’m using a belt made from a weed whacker shoulder strap. I have several so I’m doing suspenders for to attach to the ab and kidney plates as well.
For the thighs I cut pieces to the width of the inner cover strip, one for each piece.
I drilled holes for rivets. I’m using two on each for better holding power. I then burned holes in some 2” black elastic strapping, lined up to the drilled holes.
I measured and marked both thighs like this. This is where the bottom of the rivet plate will go. I picked a lower mark to make a longer strap. This will allow a little more flexibility for bending and sitting.
E6000 and a few magnets again.
The elastic straps are looped around the belt. You can make out a couple of rivets in the belt. This is an extra piece of strapping riveted on the inside that limit the travel of the loop so they won’t constantly try to move inward to the center. They are about 5” long so the loop can travel outward if needed.
This is the suspenders left front buckle. The buckle strap is attached to the ab plate and the hanging straps cross over in the back then join to the kidney plate. The crossover is riveted.
A little better lighting.
It’s hard to see the crossover but it’s there. I’ll have to take some pics of it opened up and post them
Mark strapping time. I’m using 1” black elastic and snaps with plates.
Plates have the male snaps, straps have the female with button tops.
This is what I hammer them together with.
Shouldlook like this when done.
This is the top of the shoulder bell. Pic is upside down. I like lots of E6000 because this will be taking lots of stress while moving.
I marked the lower bell snap locations with the length of my middle finger then applied lots of glue. Be sure to push it in and wiggle it to set it right in. Some glue cows up through the snap so I smear it around the inside to simulate a glue rivet.
I makes the left and right pieces in Aurebesh. I just thought it would be cool. GEEK!!
Right and left bells marked. They differ slightly on the bottom. I set them so the fronts are equal and the short back on one is on my trigger arm (right).
For the shoulder to biceps I cut 5” straps and measured how far the snaps are when they are where I want them while wearing.
To do that I held them in place and my wife marked the bicep piece at the bottom of the bell.
I found the snaps centers at 3-1/4” apart so 7/8” in from the ends worked well.
When marked at 7/8” on both ends, 3-1/4” spacing is exactly as planned.
Now, remember that hole I made in the table for the snap to make the ammo belt button covers? I also use it to burn snap and rivet holes in elastic straps and webbing with the soldering iron.
It makes installing them snap…
You can use may things as a support for hammering snaps and rivets. I sometimes use this scrap of 4x4 wood block.
Ready to make the second one.
With the bell strap glued in. The shoulder and bicep are ready.
The shoulder attachment is 3” ( or just under) and the snap spacing is 2”. This works for me to keep the gap nice and tight.
Follow the steps above and make two.
I used 2” elastic lined up with the forward edges of the cover strips as shown in the locations reference.
My dog Trooper (bottom of pic) is getting big, 9 months old now.
Benson is not very flexible so it’s a chore to position the armour on him, but with some work I made it stay as it will hang on me. I fill it out a bit better so the alignment here is generally ok but much better on me because it doesn’t flop around.
A shot from the rear. The bicep is sort of jammed to stay in position under the bell and the forearm hangs freely. It stays lined up properly.
Considering it’s a mannequin, and much thinner than me, the pieces look good together.
I didn’t trim the snap area enough so I redid it.
After trimming and drilling it to fit the rivets I check the fit of the rivets. I drill the hole so the rivet fits snugly. A bigger hole would let it sit flat but I don’t want any movement.
I use an oversized bit to taper the hole…
and then a Dremel bit to finish it. Both are done by hand, not with tools.
Then the snap base sits nice and flat and still snugly.
This is the split rivet in the front. This is how they were fastened in the movies. It’s little details that will help reach L3 Centurion. I may not get it but it won’t be for lack of effort. I’ll contin to make the touch ups needed to reach it.
This will be much more comfortable than the way it was.
i screwed up my sizing on my neckseal and am getting a new one. Teresa at Geeky Pink’s Phantastic Gaskets is replacing it at no charge even though it’s my mistake. (Didn’t account for my long hair going through it). Her stuff is the best and her customer care is like family care. You don’t get better anywhere. If you take nothing else from my build thread, take the suppliers and support I’ve mentioned throughout it, and the advice such as is seen throughout my build.