DEVOLVER

Incredible job man! Honestly, I think this is probably the best Rubies conversion I've seen. That hard work paid off for sure.

Hey, I hope everyone is doing well! I'm finally getting around to another update. It's been a while! My wife and I have been really busy working on setting up a move, home shopping etc. and it's been hectic with school starting up again for our girls. I have also been working on converting a Rubies E-11 alongside the armor build which has distracted me a bit. In the meantime, I also managed to find an undersuit with no logos, which is a lot easier said than done. Here's what I've gotten done with my armor in the last couple of weeks. I got the biceps put together and the inner strips applied to the inside of the right forearm: The only odd thing I have run into, and need advice about, is the left bicep. The back lines up perfectly, but the front doesn't match up completely. The inside piece is longer than the outside piece: Now, I have done some research and have found a couple of FISD members who had the same issue but did not show or tell how to fix it in their threads. I also looked through the FISD photo archives and found this to be the case on some of the original, movie worn left biceps. Here are a couple of examples: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/2926-dsc02597jpg/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/4019-img-20160313-152408/ So, basically the ideas I've had about this are: Since the bottoms of the bicep are lined up perfectly and the top of the bicep will be under the shoulder bell, I doubt anyone will see the misalignment, which would leave me to think to leave it alone. If that doesn't affect centurion status, I could do that. The only hangup being that I know it's there and it may end up being uncomfortable against the inside of my armpit. The second possibility would be to trim the two pieces to line up by cutting them evenly. This would remove a part of the return edge, but again, no one would see it under the shoulder bell. If that doesn't affect centurion status, sounds good, but leaves the return edge missing in a section of the bicep. The third possibility I came to was to just remove the entire top return edge. I'm nearly positive this is allowed for centurion and I have seen screen used suits that have no return edge. This may be more comfortable is allowed. What do you guys think? I appreciate any advice you guys have about the subject and would love to hear it. Just keep in mind, I am going for centurion, so any fix has to be compatible. Thanks everyone, hopefully I'll have a some more progress to share soon!

Thanks Phil, I really appreciate that and I may take you up on that offer. You've already been really helpful! I'm looking forward to trooping with you in the near future! You have a great set of armor. That's good advice and thank you. I'm trying to find and smooth all angular points that may catch my undersuit, so I might as well hit the strips while I'm at it. I just got got back from vacation and will be getting back to work soon enough. I will have more progress soon and will be posting that Rubies blaster conversion thread very soon.

I'm so glad you and the other troopers were able to help brighten Declan's day. It's so important for those with terrible illnesses and in intensive treatments to stay positive and have experiences to hold on to and look forward to, as I've seen first hand with family members. I hope things improve for this brave young man and I hope you're able to see him again many more times. I look forward to a post where we can see him healthy and in his armor.

Looks awesome dude! Keep up the great work!

Incredible paint job, man! It's laser precise. I can't wait to see the rest of the build!

The simultaneous submissions sound like great idea and it'd be cool to have multiple certifications for sure. Joseph, I will definitely take that deal! I know the road to EIB and Centurion is tough, but I'm up for the challenge. I've seen the patch and I can say that's a pretty sharp reward. I should have another decent update in the next few days. Work has kept me busy lately, but I have been working on the biceps as well as converting a Rubies E-11 for basic approval standards. Later on, I plan on acquiring a hyperfirm DLT-19 but the Rubies should do for now. When it's done, I will probably post that Rubies conversion process in separate thread for those who are interested. I truly appreciate the kind words and encouragement from everyone. It's a great community for sure.

Thanks man, I appreciate the kind words. Also, that's great advice on the belt and probably the route I will end up going. As I get further along towards the HWT specific armor building, I will definitely hit you up on the proper and best ways to reach HWT Centurion.

Thanks magni! It would be a huge achievement for me.

Thanks for the warm welcome guys! As I move further into the build, I'm sure I'm going to have plenty of questions, especially to make sure I am meeting all the Centurion CRL requirements. As I move onto the biceps, I feel like there have been some changes as compared to some build threads I've seen from the past. The shape definitely seems more symmetrical than what I've seen as I remember some builders having an issue with having to reshape the right bicep, if I recall correctly. These seem pretty circular. I will I'll be updating again soon!

It's a long and daunting process for sure but I'm loving every minute of it. Thanks for stopping by Sentry71!

Looking good! Everything is very neat and precise. I don't think you'd have any trouble at all reaching Centurion.

I used 220 grit sandpaper to rough up the bottom of the cover strip and the area on the forearm edge to get a better adhesion. I decided to glue one edge at a time to make sure I got a good, straight fit. Gluing the first cover strip! Use lots of clamps to hold that sucker down! ALSO NOTE: If you are using clamps that have colored plastic, I HIGHLY recommend putting a bit of masking tape over the end to prevent color stain. I have seen in some threads that there can be a reaction between the E6000 and pigment in the clamp that can stain the ABS. I didn't take any chances, and in fact, it helps to have it there as the E6000 doesn't stick to the tape very well and makes it easier to remove the clamp if there's any excess glue. I have been pretty liberal in my use of E6000, too! If you have excess, it peels off pretty easily. Just rub your thumb over it until the heat from the friction peels the glue away. In the tighter places around the edges, I have found that a scrap piece of ABS will scrape the excess E6000 away. DO NOT USE METAL! It will scratch up your ABS! After I had glued down the cover strips, it was time to put the pieces together! I used lots of tape, clamps and N52 rare earth magnets to hold everything in the right place. I used smaller magnets on the inside to prevent the arms from moving apart during the curing process. After 24hrs of curing, I was ready to see how it fit. Yep! I decided to use inside cover strips as well, just to make sure everything will hold even during heavy movement or an accidental whack. I cut the inside strips to about 4/16" of an inch so they would fit in the seam really well. After the inside reinforcement strips had dried, I sanded all the edges to be nice and smooth and sanded the inner strips to be curved to prevent snag on my undersuit. I think it just looks a little more attractive, as well. I may go back at some point later and and a bit of ABS paste to the top there to create a seamless appearance on the forearms.

Alright, before I started cutting I read just about every build thread on the forum and watched every Trooperbay YouTube video (found here: https://youtu.be/jmcZ8J_ZECA). I was time to dig in! I decided to start with the forearms, as that seems to be the most popular place to begin. I can see why now, too. Lots of (relatively) straight lines help to get the hang of scoring, snapping and cutting ABS plastic. From what I have found, 15mm or 5/8 or an inch was the standard width for each cover strip. Trooperbay tutorial videos also recommended this width. Given that, I double checked on my own arm that this would not be too small. Luckily for me, I have little chicken wing arms and it was a perfect fit. FUTURE TROOPERS please keep in mind, this may not be the width that works for you, but I wanted to list it here as a reference at least. With that knowledge, I brought out the ruler and measured the cut lines for my forearms. Keep in mind, it's 5/8 of an inch for the entire width of the strip, so that is 5/16 of an inch per side or 7.5mm if you go with metric measurements. I am using the score and snap method for the long straight cuts and trimming with scissors on the areas that require more intricate cuts or are located curves. After trimming the excess ABS off and making my cuts for each edge, I put the arms together with painters tape to verify the fit and find the spots that needed to be trimmed to get each side as straight and close together as possible. I also trimmed the return edge from the wrist and elbow side, the wrist for the Centurion requirement and the elbow side to make it easier to add the elastic between it and the bicep in the future. And make note fellow builders: I'm not sure if this is true for other kits, but the left arm pieces are more curved. It is slight, but you will notice the contour when looking at them from the side. ALSO NOTE: This contour makes the left arm wrist opening tighter. Be conservative when trimming here. I was lucky that my arms are relatively small. Had I trimmed any further, the left wrist would have been too small. From the top view, you can see what I mean on the left arm. I've also been saving all my ABS scraps for paste just in case I get a crack or over cut an area.

The right of passage for every TK: BIG BROWN BOX DAY! Taking inventory and basking in the glory! To say I was excited would be accurate, and to say I was feeling pretty nervous would be a massive understatement! Everything was there, and MTK even packed a checklist to show every part had been inspected and packed. Also in the box were helmet decals (though I will probably end up hand panting), black rubber chemical gloves, assorted screws and washers and the S-Trim for the helmet. I was extremely pleased. The ABS looked great and felt nice and thick. Definitely a sturdy ABS here. MTK was very fast with his responses to my questions and obviously supplies a great product. I would definitely buy from him again!

Hey everyone! This is the thread for my first build: An MTK ANH Stunt that will eventually become an HWT. I will be building the TD and drop boxes just in case there are occasions I want to go clean, but my major objective is an HWT suit. I am going for Centurion from the start and I would appreciate any and all advice/critique as I build. I have only minor experience in building models and zero experience in building armor and costuming, so I hope all goes well. Just to let you know, I have already built an arm and a half, but I will show the process and start updating my progress from here on out. The first thing after the big purchase was to gather supplies for the build: There is a wealth of knowledge here for fledgeling troopers. Using this thread (https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/) by justjoseph63, I was able to get a good head start. It was immensely helpful and I highly recommend every new builder to read it and gather as many of these supplies as possible. In my build I have decided to use E6000 over CA Glue. E6000 was the most recommended adhesive for beginners and I am so glad I went this route. So far, I have had to pull apart several sections and re-glue due to just trying to get them as cosmetically pleasing as possible. I have fixed several mistakes as well, and had I been using CA Glue, I would already have most likely ruined my armor. I highly recommend using E6000. The only downside being it's cure time which, at minimum, is 24 hours. I've tried to make it a point to glue and clamp everything that is ready at the beginning of a build session to maximize my time. Even still, it can be a long wait if you're impatient like me. A metal ruler, Lexan scissors and a sharp shop knife and Exacto knife have been invaluable as well.

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help.

Hey everyone, I'm hoping someone can clarify this for me before I continue further into my build. The "thumbprint" indentation that that is found on the inside bicep on MTK and some other armors: which side does it go on, left or right? I've been looking through different threads trying to figure this out, but no one seems to directly address this and I have seen some photos that show the thumbprint on differing sides. So is there an accepted "correct" side for this marking to go on? Thanks in advance!

I definitely appreciate the feedback guys. I will probably pursue another maker, just based on what I've now heard about their wait times and customer service. <br><br> And a poll might be a good idea from Anovos owners. It would help to see problem areas and what to be on the look out for concerning weak points in the armor so new builders could be prepared.<br><br> TM, ATA and RS may be the next place I look. If you guys have any more warnings or advice, I'd love to hear it.

Hey guys, I have yet to begin my TK build but have been looking at many options and doing a lot of research. I see that Anovos is taking orders for kits now and just wanted some of your opinions on their armors. I was looking at their standard you build it kit.<br> I am a first time builder, so I want to get something that's quality and will last a while.<br><br> Any opinions on Anovos? I have heard that their ABS tears easily. Is this true? I think the armor looks good and I know, with care, will pass for entry into the 501st, but if the quality is inconsistent or shoddy, I'd rather be looking at something else. Thanks in advance!