fragarock

Done. This is a great community so i'm happy to pitch in.

Realized I double posted the same photo in my last update. Here's the photo I wanted which shows the uneveness where the back and kidney align.

Like the ab piece, I started trimming out the butt piece. Again, I'm not sure how much of a return edge there should be. Here's are some shots pre-trimming and during trimming. I think I'll have to give this the heat gun treatment as well to bend the sides in around me a bit more. For the chest and back piece I taped them together several (okay, about nine) times before I figured out how they should be connected. At first I connected the bridging on the chest and back so they were touching. Since I'm kinda stocky this meant the neither the chest nor the back would hang vertically and lay flat on me. Eventually I realized I'll need to separate them with a gap of about 1" or 1.25" where the bridge meets across the top. You can see the bottom edge and sides of the chest piece flare out a lot. I'll have to heat gun them to make them curve around me better. Also I'll cut down the neck a bit to make more room....it's choking a bit. First I trimmed the neck, cutting out 1/2" at the bottom of the scoop and flaring back up to the original neck line. After re-taping to the back piece and trying on again I needed to take another 1/2" out. After getting it to a comfortable size I made a new return edge with the heat iron. Here's the test fit with the new neck line. Getting better and makes more room to allow the chest piece to sit a bit higher on me. Yes I am still wearing my black dress socks with shorts...that's just how I roll. Next I bent the sides to fit tighter around me, especially the bottom portions on the bottom which were flaring out. Basically set my heat gun to 700 degrees and heated the area to bend then bent it over a little by hand letting it cool, then bending a bit more. Here's the modified piece. At this point it seems to fit pretty well. I'll have a better idea how much trimming of the sides is needed (if any) once I work on the ab and kidney pieces. Next it's the kidney piece. Here's the untrimmed piece....pretty bumpy and definitely not symmetrical. RS even puts the kidney notch into the sides...who knew? I trimmed this up just like the others. Again, not sure of the exact return edge widths here so if someone knows please let me know. Here's my next dilemma. The bottom edge of the back and top edge of the kidney are not level, they each have their own bumpiness. Should I attempt to flatten out each of these so that they fit together cleanly? I'm worried about having an uneven gap which will be unprovable. This shot show how uneven they are. THis shot shows that the bottom of the back has a different curvature than the top of the kidney. Are they supposed to match up like the bottom of the kidney and butt match up? Also, looks like I'll have to trim off the pointy bottom corners of the back piece otherwise they'll hang over or stick under the kidney piece. Anyone else have to deal with this condition? I seems so weird to me that they wouldn't match up. That's it for tonight. Please let me know what you think about the alignment of these back and kidney pieces. It will really help to get some guidance.

Hi Troopers, The past week has been busy with project deadlines and a business trip to St. Louis to visit a factory. I haven't had much time to work on my armor but in a few hours of time here and there I did get something done...sort of. I started to work with the torso pieces. After getting the hang of things with the arms sections I figured sizing and shaping the torso should be then next area to tackle. Going into this phase I was a bit hesitant since these are the biggest pieces and I didn't want to mess them up. Also, I am still working out how all these will connect and more importantly how they should interface with each other. So, I dove in with some basic trimming. I know if you use the hook system you need a larger return edge to make the connection. I ordered the screen acurate strapping system so I may use that or go with the hook aproach. Since I don't know which way I'm going yet I figured I better leave a return edge. For the hook system, what's the proper retrun edge size? Here's a photo of the ab/kidbey piece out-of-the box. Here I started trimming the top. Here's a side shot where I've marked the line for trimming. For the sides, what is the proper return edge size? Rough placement. This piece is really wide and stick out quite a bit pas my sides as you can see. A little heat bending is in order I think. This piece came with the rivets for the belt already installed. I'm presuming these should align with my waist but I'm not totally sure. Part of the issue in figuring this out is that this piece is so big. Presuming the rivets are supposed to roughly align with my waist, where does the cod piece fall? Seems like it's a bit too low and I'll probably have to heat bend it to curve it under more. When the cod piece connects to the piece on the butt, how tight is this supposed to be at the crotch? I'm not sure if the cod and the underpiece of the butt part are supposed to be touching or just be close to touching?

Hi Christian, Welcome, glad to have another RS guy on board. I'm in the early phases of my build. Finished assembly of the arms and moving on to chest and back. Happy to help if you have questions. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Let's continue the updates! Shoulder bells seem like the next piece to make. I cut these down while the biceps were in various states of assembly. These seem to be the easiest pieces to trim as there's not much to them. Knowing how to do it is the problem. Luckily I remembered that Christine had contacted Rob at RS Prop Masters asking how to trim these. She relayed the info, from the bottom of the raised edge measure 12" up to set the top trim point. From the bottom of the raised edge measure over 5". I took this to mean from the edge of the raised edge, not the center...but that's a guess. Between those two points draw a line using your metal ruler. Cut, sand, etc. Do this on both sides of the shoulder bell. See how much extra material is on this sucker! Now, when I first laid this line out I thought it looked a bit odd. Could this really be intended to have a taper to it? I figured Rob at RS knew what he was doing but I had to check the movie to be sure. Sure enough the shoulder bells do have a taper as you can see below. And the full line up of guys showing off their fancy armor. So once I was convinced I got out the scissors and started cutting. For comparison here's the trimmed one next to the out-of-the-box one. Here's the finished version. I left a bit of a return edge on the bottom, about 6 mm. Is this okay or is it supposed to me completely removed? Trimming up the other one was the same process so I won't bore you with photos. At the end of working these pieces I have a couple questions that I hope you guys can answer. 1. Is there a way to tell which of these is the left and right? Both pieces are kinda wonky in shape so does it even matter? 2. This is an RS kit. See how much taller the one bell is compared to the other? Is this a quirk in RS armor or is it universal? 3. Should this taller piece be cut down to match the other one? If so I guess I'll have to trim off the bottom return edges. 4. For you shorter troopers, did you find that you needed to trim the bottoms of these anyways for them to look proportionally correct to the rest of your armor? Thanks again for taking the time to look and comment. I think the next area I'll tackle is the chest and back plate setup. Since so much of the main armor pieces hang off and interface with these, I better start getting them into shape. Working on the arm pieces has been a good start but these larger center pieces will make or break the armor assembly depending on how I get the to connect and get them reshaped to fit my size. Reading Diana's and Christine's build threads I'm sure I'll have to trim out the neck scoop to get the armor to sit higher on my chest and trim out the bottom of the chest so the ab buttons aren't completely covered. Any recommendations on how to proceed with what will surely be one of the more complicated parts of this assembly?

Here's the right bicep trimming and assembly. In this shot I've already trimmed down the upper and lower return edges on both pieces. But haven't yet adjusted them for diameter around my skinny arm. The uncut outer piece has a wraparound circumference of about 9" at the top. I'm gonna have to take about 2" total off that to fit my arm. You can see there's a lot of space between my arm and the plastic. It's about a 3" gap. So, if I leave 1/2" all around, that means I need to take 2" of material off the piece. I'll remove the material from the outer piece, 1" from each side. Here I've marked 1" of material to be removed from one side of the outer piece. Did the same on the other side of the same piece. Again, I like to cut with scissors then rim up the joint a litter. Doesn't have to be perfectly straight as the cover strips will hide any imperfections. Here is the front of this right bicep. As you can see the top return edges don't align...not even close. Here's the back side. Same problem. After installing the inner cover strips I started thinking about ways to deal with this. On the left bicep where this happened, the height difference was small so I trimmed it off with an Xacto. On this piece difference is a lot and it's on both the front and the back. Crap! I could cut it off but then I have a lot of length where there should be a return edge but there won't be one anymore. This is covered by the shoulder bell but I just didn't want to make that big of a hack. So......Time to be bold and bring out Mr. Heat Gun! The front side difference was a bit shorter so figured I start there. I splurged and bought the heat gun with the digital temp reading. After testing on a piece of scrap with the same thickness as the piece I wanted to bend I found that between 350 and 400 would do the trick. I held the nozzle about an inch from the plastic, moving it back and forth constantly so as not to put all the heat in one area. Try to put the heat only in the area you want to bend but don't hold it still on a single spot, keep it moving. This took some experimenting and it's not quite working the way I want but it came out okay. I softened up that tall return edge and bent it over using a pair of needle nose pliers. Threw some tape on the end so that I didn't transfer the texture of the plyers into the plastic. Once I bent it over, I heated it again and then used the flat end of a hammer to make the final push into place. Well, that was semi-successful. So lets do the back side. This time I stuck the heat gun in my vice so I could hold the piece in one hand while working the bend with the other. Same process as before. Bend a little, heat, bend a little more. This one wasn't perfect but I do feel I'm at least gaining experience points for trying this. Ultimately will have to build a plywood jig like Christine did. Once I had it bent, took scissors and trimmed down the return edge, sanded and viola! Here are the final shots of the assembled piece. Let me know if this seems okay or if something doesn't look right. Outer right bicep front view. Side shot. Back side. Here's the top/back side. Think I need to cut down the top of that cover strip? It's aligned with the top of the piece but the return edge curves in so much that there's a small gap as the cover strip can't bend that much. Thanks for tuning in. Next will be shoulder bells.

Hi Guys, This next section shows work on my biceps...and trust me...they need some work. I started off with the left. To identify the left from right you have to know that there is a curve on each outer piece. This curve faces forwards when you wear it. Keep in mind that the outside piece has the raised edge on it. That's how you can figure it out. Pretty simple right? Here's a shot of the outer piece. First thing I do is cut out the excess material in the return edges. I use scissors to get the shape, fine tuning it with a dremel sanding drum. Then take some fine sandpaper and make it smooth. Here's the top end after trimming. You can see I still need to sand down the edges. After getting the top and bottom return edges trimmed I taped the inner and outer pieces together for some measurements. I measured the circumference around my flexed bicep, then around the armor piece. Subtract the difference and you know how much material to cut out. Remember to leave about 1/2" all around the inside between the plastic and your arm. In my case I needed to remove about 3" total material. You can see in the picture below that the inner piece has quite the cured profile where it tucks under your armpit. I didn't want to mess with that joint so the area I cut out was cut from the outer piece. Basically 1.5" from each side of the outer piece. Top view. Marking my cut lines on the outer piece. Here are the pieces after trimming. You'll see the top return edges on each side of the cut joint don't align. Since this top part will be covered by the shoulder bell, that's where the trimming will happen. I want to leave the bottom edges in tact. I simply cut this piece off which will show in another photo. Next I do the inner cover strips which are from ABS I ordered from Amazon. It's bright white in color while the ABS sheets from RS are a creamy white. Since they're inside where nobody will see them, the color doesn't matter. Here's the outer cover strip going on. Here are completed assembly shots. Still need to trim off some of the E6000 that oozed out from under the cover strips. I use a pair of tweezers to pull it off. Here's the top view. You can see where I simply trimmed off that upper return edge piece that stuck up above the adjacent piece. Here's a rough test fit. Looking in the mirror so it looks like my right side but its' the left.

Nice, they look good and pretty sturdy.Also, top notch job on that metallic iridescent filing cabinet in the background. [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

So the E6000 glue doesn't come apart in the hot water? Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Finally back to updating. I've completed the right forearm and starte the left bicep which is currently getting its cover strips. So, progress is being made although its slow. Back to the right forearm. After trimming material from the bottom edge that was way too long I made my inner cover strips out of scrap left over from trimming and then glued them in place. Because this piece was a bit larger than the left forearm I had to trim out more material and at an odd angle to get the elbow and wrists ends to be similar in size to the other forearm. Removing this much material out of the inside piece means when the inside and outside piece are joined, they no longer make a nice circular shape, more like a flattened oval. This makes it harder to connect the back side joints together. So, my process has been to do the inner cover strips first, applying them to the outer piece. Second I do the outer cover strip on the front facing joint. That way I have a nice strong bond. That way, when I torque the back facing joint into place I don't have to worry about the front joint coming apart (the E6000 may be plenty strong but I like to be cautious). As you can see I had to tape the crap out of the piece while gluing the inner cover strips on the back side, otherwise it wanted to spring apart. The rest of the process is just like the left forearm. I did have to take a heat iron and roll down some of the return edges at the elbow. Where the two piece come together at the top the return edges don't always align nicely so a little heat helps to match them up. Here are shots of the completed right forearm. Here's the outer side. Here's the inner side. Here's the front. Here's the back side. While the left forearm didn't have a scoop taken out if it at the elbow, forcing me to cut one out, this right firearm does have a bit of a scoop. I may trim it down a bit so it matches the left one. Does anyone know if this is a critical item for approvals? Based on the film still I took, there's a lot of variation between left and right pieces anyways so I'm thinking it's OK to have them non-symmetrical. Finally, I need some advice on reshaping these pieces, especially the bicep pieces. When doing the hot water baths are people using hot tap water or boiling water from the stove? How long do you soak the piece for and how malleable is it once removed from the water....how much time do you have to bend it before it stiffens up again? Thanks for reading and any feedback you can offer would be excellent.

Now it's time to do the right forearm. While the left was very slim and had a curvature similar to an actual forearm, the right one is very boxy in shape. Also, it seems a bit wider and longer than the left one. Here's the outer piece as it came out-of-the-box. Here's the uncut wrist end. Here's the top elbow end. My intent was to make assembly of this piece faster since I had just done the other forearm and worked thru cutting methods, ways to glue, etc. So my plan was to trim the outer piece first as your trimming options are somewhat limited due to raised cover strip areas and the dimples. First thing to do is to shorten the length of this piece. Grabbed my compass and used that to transfer a consistent offset line from the existing wrist return edge up. This gets rid of the return edge and shortens the length which I need for a better fit. I also cut out the extra material from the return edge at the elbow end....didn't take pictures though. This is the inner piece of the right forearm looking at the front. Elbow is at top, wrist at bottom. You can see it came with a lot of extra material on it. So, like I previously did, I placed a couple lines to identify a minimum 7.5mm edge to keep which would eventually be covered by the cover strip. Used scissors to cut this. Plan here was to remove the material at the front of the piece and then see how it aligned with the front of the outer dimpled piece that I previously trimmed. Here you can see how much longer the inner piece is compared to the outer dimpled piece. At this point I had to make a decision what to do to get these pieces to align. Since return edges have to be removed at the wrist, I decided that's where I would cut this piece down to size. That would also leave me the return edges at the elbow end which I want to keep. In this photo, the elbow is at the bottom of the photo. Here's it with the elbow ends aligned. You can see there's lots of material to trim out of the return edges. Here's how it will look with elbow ends aligned. Here I used my compass to make the offset lines for trimming the return edges. I left a bit more material so I'd have a bit of a safety factor to trim additional material out once I get the two pieces attached. Here's the material removed at the elbow return edges. At this point I've got the front cover strip edges cut down, Trimmed off extra material at the elbow returns, and trimmed the wrist end of the outer piece. Here's a test fit. Now I need to cut off the bottom wrist end of the inner piece as it's way too long. I again used my compass to transfer offset lines from the existing bottom edge up to where I need the new cut line to be. That's it for now as this piece is being glued with it's first cover strips. More update soon.

After seeing the post showing how the RS Props team cuts the scoop into the forearms I decided to do the same. But I figured I better look at the forearm variations in ANH before I did anything. So, the best shots were when The Falcon is first pulled into the DS. Here are some screenshots taken with my phone. After combing thru the film for about 40 minutes I noticed the following: 1. Each trooper's armour varies a bit. 2. There were a lot of broken pieces. When Leia is captured, one guy has his bicep held together with white tape. 3. Elbow end of forearms sometimes have returns, sometimes not. 4. Size and shape of the scoop out of the inner forearm varies between left and right and between troopers. 5. Scoop doesn't get cut out of the cover strip ridges, they remain unharmed. So, I decided to follow what seemed to be the predominant scoop shape as shown for right forearms (left forearms were much longer scoops) as it looked better...more of a nice curve. So here's what I did, drew a nice curve with the deepest part about 1.5" down from the inner elbow line. Here's after I cut it out with scissors. Then I trim the edges with an xacto to remove any burs or uneven cut lines. The plastic cuts easily especially when taking off thin slices. Here's the top after trimming the scoop and sanding the edges. I kept the return edges where possible. You'll notice I am doing inner cover strips. This first one was supposed to be the outer strip but I botched it and cut it too short. So, it's now an inner strip. Quickly realized that I better order spare white ABS from amazon otherwise I won't have enough of the original matching color ABS sheet that came with the armor. Also, saving all my ABS trimmings for future ABS paste when I need to do repairs. Here are shots before final assembly of cover strips. By this point I've aligned the top and bottom edges, took a heat iron to a couple elbow side return edges to make the inner and outer forearm pieces align better, and adjusted the overall diameters. Here's the top cover strip going on. Sanded the back side of the cover strip to roughen it up and give the glue a better surface to adhere to. Didn't bother sanding the armor. Prior to this I installed the inner cover strip. Clamps, magnets, etc. Here are final shots of the left forearm. This is top view. Inner view Bottom view. And on my arm. I think I'll need to add a bit of foam near below the scoop to keep this from rattling around too much when I move.

Thanks. Yours was the first build I saw on the FISD and convinced me that it was possible to trim the armor down. Glad to have any input you can share, especially on some of the esoteric cutting and trimming requirements (like the scoop out of the forearms). You mentioned a FB page. What's the name of the page? I'd love to look it up. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Hi, I started with the left forearm. Had to look back thru my notes to remember which one was left, its' the one with 11 indents, not 12. Also I noticed in the RS kit the left forearm is significantly slimmer (not as wide) as the right one. My kit was very roughly trimmed. There are no guide marks on the pieces so I had to look at the photo reference library to know where to start and check my notes on cover strips. Forearm cover strips are 15mm wide, so I started there. The front side of the forearm (side facing out in front of you with your arm down at your side) has a raised edge where the cover strip goes. First thing I did was to trim off the excess plastic to get down to 7.5 mm on both the inner and outer forearm piece. Keep in mind this is on the front part of the pieces. In this photo you see the inside of the forearm. Top part is where the elbow goes, bottom is for the wrist. As you can see there's a raised edge but it's way wider that the 15mm cover strip that needs to go here. So, I trimmed it down leaving only 7.5mm. You kind of have to eyeball this and pick a spot where the narrowest point of that raised area will still be 7.5mm after you cut. I cut this by clamping a small steel ruler along the line I drew and securing it down to the edge of my work bench. Then I scored it about 7 times with an xacto until the piece was trimmed. Scoring it a few times and snapping it works too, you just have to push really hard on those few score attempts. Next I did the same for the outer piece. Once those were cut I then worked on the wrist end. First I trimmed off the return edges on both pieces as they are not required and for advanced approval need to be removed. I taped the two pieces together and fit it over my forearm to judge if the length was correct. Based on the reference photos the length seems to go from the wrist all the way to the elbow. Of course there's some variation on this but most of the forearm photos showed the piece covering the entire forearm. Since I'm smaller, I decided to trim off about 1/2" off the wrist side of both pieces to get the length correct. I could have trimmed more but didn't want to cut into the dimples at the bottom of the wrist. I used the lexon scissors for this trimming along curved parts of the armor. Here's the view from the inner side. And from the outer side. I forgot to take pictures of the top return edges near the elbow. These need serious trimming out-of-the-box. I trimmed a lot off, leaving about 1/4" of return edge. I believe you can trim all this off if needed (to make more room if you have really big arms). I didn't need to do that. Next was time to adjust the overall diameter of the piece. With the front side taped together (back side untaped) I fit it back over my arm and adjusted the diameter to a point where I had about 1/2" from my skin to the inside face of the armor. Elbow end needed a small amount of material removed while wrist end needed more. To start I trimmed off about 1/2" from each side. Note that this trimming is done where the pieces meet up on the inside of the armor (not the dimpled side that faces out). Once I got this material removed I stuck it back on my arm and this time needed no adjustment at the elbow but needed about another 2" out of the wrist. So, the idea is to take 1/2 the material out of each piece, that way the outer joint and inner joint remain symmetrical and opposite each other. You'll see in the photo how I trimmed this with an angled line flaring out at the wrist end where more material was to be removed. I basically followed Ukswrath's pinned thread. Here's what I looks like taped together. You're seeing the back side joint here. The wrist end is aligned but the top elbow sides don't quite meet up correctly. Can this be left or does it need to be trimmed so they are even? If so I presume I need to then cut away the return edges all around the elbow. Suggestions?? Another thing I noticed was on other armors, there is a swoop cut into the inside of the elbow. Weird thing is, it's not even on the top of the forearm which would be helpful if you curled your forearm up to your bicep. It's more on the inside which seems useless. What is the point of this and is it required? The RS armor doesn't have this.

How did you get the molithic rail off? Slice it off with a utility knife or something? I like drilling the barrel holes idea.

I emailed him. Figure I'll hear sometime tomorrow. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

The BBB from RS Prop Masters arrived last night. After cleaning up from dinner, packing lunches, and getting the kids to bed I cracked this sucker open and laid out the pieces in their full glory. I started to freak a little looking at all the pieces because I now know how much work is involved here. Baby steps is what I have to keep telling myself. The pieces look good and seem to have survived the shipping. I'm surprised by the lumpiness of parts of the bucket. Some areas are perfectly smooth while others are a bit lumpy. Cricket mentioned this in her thread but I didn't really understand until I saw it in person. One are has me concerned. There's a dent on the bottom of the bucket face piece which appears to have been formed when the piece was pulled. Anyone else with an RS kit have this dent? I'm wondering if it's supposed to be there, damaged part, or fabrication glitch. Do I need to order a new piece from RS? See the picture below. I also got the strapping kit which has the rivets and bra hooks already attached. This should help as I can't sew....yet! I figure I'll decide which parts to use or swap our for alternate straps as i work thru the process. Here are some reference shots. Here's the dent picture.

So I noticed a dent on the bottom of the front bucket section during unpacking. Does yours have this too? I'm wondering if it's a manufacturing error or something that's part of the casting. It's under the right side vocoder on the bottom/side. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

I finally heard from them and my order should arrive on Monday. Guess they were busy catching up with all the ABS orders that couldn't be pulled earlier. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Anyone else waiting on their armor from RS Prop Masters? About a month ago I was told the order would be delayed due to a bad shipment of ABS they received. Haven't had a response to emails in several days. Getting a little concerned. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Hi, After talking with Brian he convinced me to set the lenses deeper into the scope and he hooked me up with some of the rings he's casted to complete the mod. I got the rings a couple days ago and went to work. First thing was to pull out the lenses which was easy since I had already left the sticking out a bit. Then I carved out more material on the inside of the scope to make room for the ring. Once I was happy with the test fit I made sure to blow out any remaining dust and debris from inside the scope and then painted the inside black. I also took my Dremel and cut off about 1/4" of the plastic lens housing as the whole thing would now have to fit deeper into the scope body. Here are the large and small rings from Brian. They are for the M19 scope. I gave them each a coat of gold (don't have brass color) and black paint. Here's the lens reinserted into the scope prior to installing the ring. Here's the final install of the large scope. No glue needed, it's friction fit and isn't going anywhere. The front small lens was essentially the same, just inserted the glass lens further down into the hole I'd already bored out and the fit the ring on top. I also wanted to add in real screws where practical. After a visit to the local hardware store I came away with the proper hex head screws although I used a shorter length than the real ones so I wouldn't have to drill too far into the resin. I started off with an inconspicuous spot at the bottom of the handle. Drilled out a hole using progressively larger bits until I got the right size. Then CA glued this screw into place. Next was to replace the molded screws at the muzzle. This was a little dicy and may not be worth the hassle as the originals looked pretty good. First shot is the original. Then started carving this piece out with a dremel bit. This was tricky not to accidently carve up the adjacent muzzle piece. Basically I carved away the original cast screw then drilled a hole for the new screw to be inserted. Here's the screw inserted. You can see the original screw on the right side of the muzzle for comparison. The problem with this mod is there's no good way to make a perfectly clean/sharp line when you cut out this material. Even with an Xacto it's still difficult to get rid of all the burs and tore up edges around where you cut/bore. Keep that in mind if you attempt this, in this case the screws look good but the area under the screw where I had to cut is a bit rough. I also bore out the muzzle hole a bit to make it deeper. Final mod on this is adding some cheese head screws to the front of the scope. Pretty simple once I got my hands on the screws. Just drill a small hole, route out the opening as needed to fit the screw head in so it's slightly recessed. These are friction fit and I did a thin wash of black paint over the heads. The last photo shows the finished end with screws and the small lens retainer ring in place. That's it. Only thing I may still tackle is the Hengstler counter but I haven't wrapped my head around how I'd remove it and then secure the new one in place. Hopefully some of you find this useful.

Thanks Chris, I've started to add in some of the real screws in various parts of the blaster starting with the muzzle. Last night I think I finally figured out the numbering system for the cheesehead machine screws at the front of the scope. Now if I can find some place that sells them with the slotted head configuration.

Just got my sweet TK boots. DYNOMITE!! I'm gonna have to mention the great customer service they provided. My original order was shipped to my old address in Sacramento....never to be seen again, as I haven't lived there in three years. Totally my fault too. The folks over at TK Boots tried to get the boots back from the shipper but this proved a dead end. So I asked them to place a new order for me, this time sent to my correct address. They totally sent me a new pair of boots, no charge. That's really awesome and unexpected. Thanks TK Boots! Is it wrong that I'm wearing the right now...with my running shorts?

Thanks for the note about setting them deeper. I looked at your scope casting thread. That's amazing work and looks you gained a lot of knowledge during that process. I'll definitely keep a tab on your work as I further mod this thing. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk