Shinyarmour1

Now to finish my shins. The left shin is already assembled, I've just finished the right with the coverstrips. The shins line up much better at the back after several hot water bathes. This makes the velcro connection better in appearance and performance. I've also placed the velco on the inside for the boot attachment.

I decided to go back and finish my shoulder bridges and chest/back plate connection. I glued the strips into all the slots and then glued a thick extra layer of ABS (about half the width of the bridges) to strengthen and allow some flexibility. Al least now I can rest knowing that little extras going to help.

Thanks for pointing that out Mario. Fortunately I hadn't got round to gluing the elastic onto the belt, so l can shift those along to the edge. Here is what it will look like when I eventually glue the buttons over the Chicago screws Taking the measurements from other builds, I marked the holes for the holster. 20mm from the belt edge 15mm from the bottom of the canvas belt 120mm between the holster holes I was about to attach the belt onto the Ab plate, whilst remembering to have it slightly covering the bottom of the buttons for screen accuracy. But after doing dozens of measurement checks, I found that after measuring and marking the holes through the Ab plate onto the canvas belt for the snaps, the holes are offset. The left hole on the belt (my left side) lines up with the Chicago screws, however, the right hole is lower down. When I clamped it to the Ab plate, the belt appears to be straight and even for lower button coverage, but not the hole placement. I have read through lots of build threads and almost every other belt has the holes level and aligned with the pop rivets or snaps they use for the belt to canvas attachment. I'm not sure what to do about this. Should I drill a new hole (my right side) a little higher on the Ab plate to compensate for even snap installment on the belt, or just leave it and make the holes where I have measured? I am open to any and all suggestions.

There's also this other one I found which you commented on recently. https://www.imperialarms3d.com/product-page/star-wars-custom-e-11-blaster-rifle-prop-with-functioning-spring-mechanism What about this one if they ship to my location? If it's possible to make those adjustments, like to mentioned above, would this pass at Centurion level?

I'm still on the look out for ANH E-11 blaster. Unfortunately Doopydoos has been out of stock for quite some time and my location will not accept fully constructed blasters from the US (because they look like guns). In one way that's fine because I want to build a blaster kit myself, but in another way, it makes it harder to find a good E-11 kit option that ships to my country. I came across this kit which looks pretty good and affordable:- https://www.etsy.com/nz/listing/775750273/e11-blaster-hengstler-counter-a-new-hope?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=e11+blaster&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1&cns=1 Can this work for Centurion? I'm assuming that some modifications are needed to make it more screen accurate, can it be done with this one. I am open to any help and all advice.

Good tip, I might give that block of foam a go, thanks

I too have these squirrel fans connected to a USB bank. By having yours wrapped up in what looks like elastic, does that reduce the fan noise? I tried something similar to reduce the noise and I noticed the fans where working harder to blow out the air. By doing this will it damage or reduce their lifespan or is there some trick to what you have done here that will help reduce noise without damaging the fans?

I too am still looking for ANH E11 blaster that meets Centurion standards. Unfortunately Doopydoos have been out of stock for quite some time, so is there anywhere else that I can purchase a trooping E11 that comes in a kit? I had a look and found this one:- https://www.etsy.com/nz/listing/775750273/e11-blaster-hengstler-counter-a-new-hope?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=e11+blaster&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1&cns=1 But I want to explore other options as well. It has to be in a kit to assemble that allows overseas shipping.

Back to the ammo belt. I've trimmed and sanded the buttons for the belt I drilled the holes for the connection to the canvas belt. I'm using Chicago screws for a non permanent because I am building for long term. If my canvas belt needs replacing in the future, it will be easy to do so with Chicago screws. Same for the drop boxes. Easy to replace the elastic when it stretches in the distant future using Chicago screws. Does not appear to have any gaps. Still working on the measurements of the canvas belt snap location to the Ab plate. Trying to get it to look even and straight. I've also trimmed the excess from my canvas belt and sewn it up. I've only done 1 of the drop boxes because I want to know if everything looks correct first. Do I need to trim any more from the top/bottom of the ammo belt for L3 approval? I've read several build threads and triple checked the measurements; some have pass L3 by removing most of the top/bottom and others have passed without removing anymore. When I know, I'll adjust the drop box elastic (if needed) and apply the same measurements for the other side.

Thanks for the reference pictures Mario Measured, drilled, counter sunk and installed AP supplied snaps for the butt plate And made the thigh belt too.

I have my 5v fans and converted them to a USB power bank. After testing it inside my helmet, I found that they are a bit noisy (even just having1 fan in there). So I have been looking into ways that I could reduce the volume when I came across this:- https://www.amazon.com.au/NOYITO-Stepless-Controller-Regulator-Switch/dp/B07PMNLMMH/ref=pd_sim_nf_6?pd_rd_w=cgbWb&pf_rd_p=0d186eba-d3fd-47b6-98d9-5d9e928bb739&pf_rd_r=P9BK4VA68JT452NVWEEQ&pd_rd_r=7a6b1631-e1cb-460f-856e-a2e16de8e799&pd_rd_wg=GbW1G&pd_rd_i=B07PMNLMMH&psc=1 I know there are others like this one:- https://www.amazon.com.au/Easycargo-Controller-Raspberry-Ventilation-40mmx40mmx10mm/dp/B07JK6WGYX/ref=pd_sim_nf_5?pd_rd_w=N6m7w&pf_rd_p=0d186eba-d3fd-47b6-98d9-5d9e928bb739&pf_rd_r=21E1RFNYJP5E4CBYMGWW&pd_rd_r=2bc66321-7fe2-4510-92b9-77df97c06104&pd_rd_wg=QWKDm&pd_rd_i=B07JK6WGYX&psc=1 But that means there will be more cables cramped in my helmet and 2 fans supplied that I won't be using. I have it set up for 1 fan per power bank, this option is only for 2 fans per power bank. I'm not going with this, especially if I decide to just have 1 fan in my helmet and not 2. I rather like the NOYITO speed controller (I'm just showing the Easycargo for a reference only), but I just wanted to ask you guys first if the NOYITO would work. I'm not by any means an electrician, and I don't want to order this if its going to decrease the lifespan of my fans. But if they will help reduce the noise, speed and not damage the voltage performance, then I will go ahead and get some.

Here is the belt so far. As for the canvas belt itself, it was way too long Others had suggested exactly what I was thinking...trim off the excess. After looking at several reference images, doing a test fit with the TD attached and taking some measurements; I was wondering about using the TD for a reference of the trim line and cut right here. If I were to trim the belt where I have marked it, would this be correct and accurate (especially for L3)?

I had a mishap when I glued the hand guard to the glove. Not only did some glue spill ooze out under the guard, but there was a fold that I did not see when I glued onto the glove. So I decided to cut the guards off the gloves because there was no recovering it with the thumb fold glued underneath, oh well, live and learn. Just went out to get 2 sets of gloves instead (1 being a backup pair). This time I had a better understanding and was well prepared. Here are my new gloves ready for L3.

I trimmed the AB plates, measured the button decals supplied by AP, traced around and cut out on painters tape. Here we are after 2 coats and a toothpick clean up.

A lot has happened in the past couple of weeks, so I'll bring everyone up to speed with what I have done since my last post. There was a clamp dent in the side of my sniper knee which had to be either bent back into place, or trimmed off. After dipping that part into boiling water and taping several paddle pop sticks together, I clamped the sticks in and on top of the groove dent and clamped hard. By doing this several times, the dented part of the sniper knee bent back straight once again. Before After The split rivet/snap for the cod. Installed snaps and a slot system to keep the Ab/Kindey plates from moving and overlapping. Drilled holes on the Ab/Kidney sides and even glued some ABS plates for extra strength. I even crested a slot system for the other side to level out and also prevent sliding/overlapping.

Thanks for the feedback and likes to my build so far. For the sniper plate, I have some pop sticks but no heat gun, so I'll just try and restore the dented area with a few hot water baths and clamp the pop sticks together to hopefully level it out. But before I do that, here is my left leg test fit.

Now for the dreaded sniper knee. Like many builds have mentioned, vertical sides looks more screen accurate and rounded corners to prevent stress splits/cracks. I think I might have the sniper knee secured in the correct position. It was a tough battle getting this awkward knee to fit, not to mention a long time. But as it was strongly advised, glue the base (wait 48 hours), glue one side (wait another 48 hours) then glue the other side (wait 48 hours). As you can see there were quite a few clamps needed. After I removed the clamps, I gave it a once over to check the positioning. It looks straight and aligned to me, but I'll leave it up to you guys. It was soon after checking the position of the sniper knee, I then realised that one of my clamps had left an imprint on the side. So I did what any rational person would have done. I had a 5 minute panic attack, then went through my options and possible outcomes. It seems that there are only 2 options for me:- A. I leave it as is and say "oh well, these things happen". or B. I carefully remove one side, trim off as much of the imprint as I can and reglue. Then carefully remove the other side, trim off a little to even it out and reglue. Here's a picture to show what I mean. What should I do?

I wanted to have a go at painting the boots, so after reading several tutorials about boot painting, I got to work. I gave them a good wipe over with acetone to remove the shine and placed the velco to keep the shins in place. 1 coat of white leather paint 3 coats later 6 coats later I still need to go around the sole with a toothpick to remove some paint bleed, but man they were fun to paint and see the transformation.

Its been very slow for me in the way of progress. I've been trying to find the time to work on my kit, along with the difficult areas to glue that require 48-72 hours cure time instead of just 24 hours. I managed to get my left leg completed (except for trimming the top of the coverstrip) and I want to get confirmation from you experts that if everything looks good, I can incorporate those measurements for my right leg. So here's what I managed to do. The last time I spoke about the thighs, I was struggling to get the gap where the ridge was at the back to close. After some very helpful feedback and ideas, I went back into the thighs. I installed the inner strips, then the front coverstrip. I borrowed an idea from Markgambino for closing the back ridge gap (thanks Markgambino) I cut 2 thick pieces of ABS, glued them together so they would be extra strong... ...and used the force (clamping force) to close and even the ridge gap for 48 hours cure time. This worked batter than I expected. I thought that there would still be some gap to fill with ABS paste, but there's hardly any at all. After that I glued the back coverstrip... ...and here is the result. I'll trim the tops of the strips only when I know that the thighs are good and don't need resizing.

Hi Everyone Just wanted to know about the speed and noise performance between having 2 fans (5v) connected to 1 USB pack, or 1 fan (5v) connecting to 1 USB pack. I've seen different helmet interiors with different fan setups, so thats why I need to ask about it. I don't know which option to go with for my fan setup. Many have used a Y split connector for 2 fans to 1 pack and that has not affected the overall performace. However, does it make a difference to speed/noise when having 2 fans hooked up to 1 USB pack as apposed to 1 fan for 1 pack? I was origially thinking of having 1 fan connected to 1 power pack on both sides of my bucket, but would that make the airflow faster? I also want to avoid having a setup that sounds like my bucket being full of mosquitoes. So with that in mind which would be better for low speed/noise, 2 fans connected to 1 USB pack or 1 fan to 1 USB pack? 　 Any Pros and Cons info would be greatly appreciated.

Dude, your build is so awesome. I hope it all works out for your approval

I'm currently in the process of gluing the thigh coverstips. While I am gradually gluing the inner and outer stripes, I have also cut and glued the strips for the shoulder bridges. Unfortunately after several attempts with the shins in hot water, the gap has not closed, so I'll probably just leave it be (it's not that noticeable anyway). I've also been doing battle with the sniper plate. I've glued the middle on first, and am now waiting 48 hours before gluing 1 side, followed by the other.

Thanks for the helpful feedback everyone. I'll have a go at closing the shin gap, if I can't, then I'll just leave it alone. As for the thighs, I'll do as you guys advice and glue every strip waiting 48 hours in-between. I will just have to accept that the bottom ridges on the thighs will only align with substantial clamping force, followed by ABS paste to conceal the gap. Thanks again.

The thighs...same thing. I'm only woring on the left side first and if all looks correct, then I can work on the right. Still in the process of trimming/sanding the coverstips, but the thigh front is done and the back as well (I hope). Like the shin, I measured the overlap, added some extra space and trimmed. How does it look? Again, the back is giving me grief. It seems the back ridge is not co-operating with me. When I tape this scrap piece coverstrip into place there leaves a gap where the 2 ridges meet. Even if I take the trimmed ridge and glue it behind to try and close the gap, the other half of the thigh becomes raised and, again, leaves a gap. I can't hot water bath this one because there's too much uneven stress to glue both the coverstrips and the ridge piece. What should I do about this?

Got to work on the shins and thighs. When it came to trimming the front, they were pretty straight forward, cut a 20mm coverstrip for the front for both of them. I starting with the left shin cutting 10mm each side, glued the inner strip to hold it in place and then glued the outer strip. Now the back was a completly different story. Because there is no guide line return running down, that ment I had to hope my overlap measurements were correct for sizing. The top was 6mm overlap and the bottom 16mm. So I trimmed 3mm at the top and 5mm at the bottom on both halfs. I even gave myself some extra room just in case and to allow the shin to fit over my boot. I cut out the 25mm strip for the back, glued half on the left hand side (becuase its the left shin) and after curing applied the velcro to the other half. It seems to close alright at the top but theres a slight gap at the bottom where the shin curve does not align properly. It's hard to notice but I was wondering if this is normal. Mark Gambino build thread has the same issue, while gmrhodes13 said to give it a hot water bath and bring the gap closer, Mark (ABS80) said to leave alone because thats how they were on screen. Has anyone else had the same thing with their shins (even when using velcro) and did they need to fix it?